First time going clipless - how to avoid the road rash?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
First time going clipless - how to avoid the road rash?
My current pedals have toe cages, but I'm looking at switching out to clipless. Are there any brands you all recommend or ones to definitely avoid? And any tips to avoid, or at least reduce, the amount of time picking tarmac out of my elbows and knees?
#2
MUP World Champ
Practice with the MTB at a nice grassy park. SPDs using the SH-56 cleats are a little easier than SPD-SLs for me.
Likes For adamhenry:
#3
Senior Member
Yep, practice on the grass. You likely will fall over a few times. The good news is you will be nearly at a standstill and the rash will be minor. The keys are to unclip as you approach the stop and if you are unsure whether to stop or not such as at a stop sign in a residential neighborhood, plan to stop. The other good news is due to the pandemic, traffic is far lighter than normal so you won't have to stop as often in the previous scenario.
#4
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times
in
1,187 Posts
As stated, SPD are really easy and most have adjustable tension.
For "road" pedals, i've ridden LOOK for years and they make them with different tension springs.
For "road" pedals, i've ridden LOOK for years and they make them with different tension springs.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
7 Posts
Guess I'll be giving it a few laps of the garden first then. I live in the UK though, so non of those pesky stop signs you guys have, plus I live in a tiny village so never any traffic apart from the occasional tractor anyway.
how do you guys set up the position for the cleats on the pedals and the shoes? Ideally I'd just go into a shop and get some help, but that's not really feasible at the moment.
how do you guys set up the position for the cleats on the pedals and the shoes? Ideally I'd just go into a shop and get some help, but that's not really feasible at the moment.
#6
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times
in
1,187 Posts
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,569
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1851 Post(s)
Liked 678 Times
in
429 Posts
Practice in a door frame just to get the feeling of clipping out.
And no matter how much you practice, you're going to miss it at some point. It happens to everyone.
And no matter how much you practice, you're going to miss it at some point. It happens to everyone.
Likes For topflightpro:
#8
Zoom zoom zoom zoom bonk
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,624
Bikes: Giant Defy, Trek 1.7c, BMC GF02, Fuji Tahoe, Scott Sub 35, Kona Rove, Trek Verve+2
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 551 Post(s)
Liked 722 Times
in
366 Posts
After a few weeks you'll get really comfortable and forget all about them. Then plonk, probably stopping at an intersection. Hopefully you're still in lockdown and there won't be a busload of school kids there laughing at you.
Likes For znomit:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 8,515
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3241 Post(s)
Liked 2,512 Times
in
1,510 Posts
If you have a trainer, start out there. Same for a stationary bike. Move on to grassy areas. You can also ride around a school or business park during non business hours and practice your in and out up close to a building leaning up against a wall.
Likes For seypat:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 262
Bikes: Trek Madone
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 98 Post(s)
Liked 76 Times
in
54 Posts
This is somewhat a subjective topic but the only thing I will say to avoid.......the cheap pedals! You don’t really want to get a $15 or so pair of clipless because I did when I went clipless and almost gave up due to poor quality. Shimano 105 or Ultegra are a good start. Adjustable and a decent width platform for stability. I like Time Expresso pedals myself and the iClic system.
The bottom line is you may take suggestions here and buy something and not like it. In that case try another brand if you are financially able until you find that one pedal. But I would suggest to a newbie to clipless.....Shimano 105 as a start.
To your avoiding road crash and rash.......inevitably you will fall while clipped in. It is like riding a bike for the first time no training wheels, got to fall a few times to get the hang of it.
The bottom line is you may take suggestions here and buy something and not like it. In that case try another brand if you are financially able until you find that one pedal. But I would suggest to a newbie to clipless.....Shimano 105 as a start.
To your avoiding road crash and rash.......inevitably you will fall while clipped in. It is like riding a bike for the first time no training wheels, got to fall a few times to get the hang of it.
Likes For Germanrazor:
#11
Senior Member
I recommend time Iclic. Easier to clip in and out of than others. As others said practice on grass. If you fall at a slow stop sign because you forget to clip out, you’ll not get hurt but then you’ll never forget to clip out again.
Likes For Gconan:
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: location location
Posts: 3,035
Bikes: MBK Super Mirage 1991, CAAD10, Yuba Mundo Lux, and a Cannondale Criterium Single Speed
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 344 Post(s)
Liked 297 Times
in
207 Posts
SPD, single-sided pedals, with a platform on the reverse side. That way when you’re still in town you can continue riding with one foot unclipped, and clip in proper when you get out into the country.
Start with shoes with a recessed, 2-bolt cleat. As you become more comfortable with clipping in, you can consider upgrading your road bike to SPD-sl or Look Keo or Speedplay etc. But you can still keep the 2-bolt pedals for off-road, commuter, trainer bike, whatever. Or you can just ride the 2-bolt forever if that makes you happy.
Start with shoes with a recessed, 2-bolt cleat. As you become more comfortable with clipping in, you can consider upgrading your road bike to SPD-sl or Look Keo or Speedplay etc. But you can still keep the 2-bolt pedals for off-road, commuter, trainer bike, whatever. Or you can just ride the 2-bolt forever if that makes you happy.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 2,633
Bikes: 2021 S-Works Turbo Creo SL, 2020 Specialized Roubaix Expert
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 762 Post(s)
Liked 4,029 Times
in
1,427 Posts
This is somewhat a subjective topic but the only thing I will say to avoid.......the cheap pedals! You don’t really want to get a $15 or so pair of clipless because I did when I went clipless and almost gave up due to poor quality. Shimano 105 or Ultegra are a good start. Adjustable and a decent width platform for stability. I like Time Expresso pedals myself and the iClic system.
The bottom line is you may take suggestions here and buy something and not like it. In that case try another brand if you are financially able until you find that one pedal. But I would suggest to a newbie to clipless.....Shimano 105 as a start.
To your avoiding road crash and rash.......inevitably you will fall while clipped in. It is like riding a bike for the first time no training wheels, got to fall a few times to get the hang of it.
The bottom line is you may take suggestions here and buy something and not like it. In that case try another brand if you are financially able until you find that one pedal. But I would suggest to a newbie to clipless.....Shimano 105 as a start.
To your avoiding road crash and rash.......inevitably you will fall while clipped in. It is like riding a bike for the first time no training wheels, got to fall a few times to get the hang of it.
I found I really didn’t have any trouble getting used to clipless, though it felt a little weird for about ten days. After riding them for over a year, I fell over just the other day because I stopped in a way I don’t normally stop (after a very low speed turn around). And I hadn’t unclipped early enough before stopping. Unclipping early is the key for me. If I do that a good 10-12 feet before I actually stop, everything is fine.
#15
Senior Member
SH56 cleats, for sure. A caveat: these MIGHT pop loose if/when you come up out of the saddle to stand and power up. However, they will also pop loose when you begin to panic because you are close to falling...and you flail a bit. They are very good all round if you're a moderate rider, like me. I have two fake hips, so I am careful about these things.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18353 Post(s)
Liked 4,502 Times
in
3,346 Posts
If you're used to riding toe clips, the the transition should be easy. Just a slightly different foot movement.
If you've ever ridden toe clips with cleats, then the twist to get the feet loose will be similar.
If you've ever ridden toe clips with cleats, then the twist to get the feet loose will be similar.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
Slow
Clip out
Stop
NOT
Slow
Stop
Fall over sideways
Clip out
Stop
NOT
Slow
Stop
Fall over sideways
Likes For Seattle Forrest:
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,106 Times
in
1,417 Posts
I also started with old clips and straps and this is easier. Clipless is much easier than cages and straps. Rotate your heel out. That's it. It's literally one single monoplanar motion. Practice it a few times on each side.
#19
Senior Member
If you find yourself beyond the point of no return drop your body down on that side as close to the ground as possible next to the bike and roll. Don't put out your hand to stop your fall. This is not intuitive it takes a conscious effort.
Likes For grizzly59:
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: San Clemente
Posts: 664
Bikes: 87 Bianchi X4, 95 Bianchi Ti Mega Tube, 06 Alan Carbon Cross X33, Gold plated Columbus AIR Guerciotti, 74 Galmozzi Super Competizione, 52 Bianchi Paris Roubaix.
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 259 Post(s)
Liked 539 Times
in
166 Posts
If you can maneuver with clips, clip less will be a breeze. Just remember to unclip when you come to a stop.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,516
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20808 Post(s)
Liked 9,450 Times
in
4,668 Posts
#23
Full Member
I have always used the SPD system and find it works well. I know that the proper road clip-in pedals have slightly better power transfer and may reduce hot-spots on your feet.
That being said, I have never had significant soreness or hot spots from SPD. SPD shoes are easier to walk-in as well.
My advise is consider SPD. Decide whether you would still like to ride the bike with conventional shoes sometimes. If so, consider a pedal with SPD one side and cage on the other.
As far as technique goes. You can play with the tension and also a useful habit is to unclip on at least one side when riding in traffic or in terrain where you may need to get a foot down quickly.
Also, when climbing you need to remember you have very little reaction time so if you need to stop, give one or two powerful strokes to give a small time buffer to get at least one foot out before you lose momentum and stop.
That being said, I have never had significant soreness or hot spots from SPD. SPD shoes are easier to walk-in as well.
My advise is consider SPD. Decide whether you would still like to ride the bike with conventional shoes sometimes. If so, consider a pedal with SPD one side and cage on the other.
As far as technique goes. You can play with the tension and also a useful habit is to unclip on at least one side when riding in traffic or in terrain where you may need to get a foot down quickly.
Also, when climbing you need to remember you have very little reaction time so if you need to stop, give one or two powerful strokes to give a small time buffer to get at least one foot out before you lose momentum and stop.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 92
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 21 Times
in
15 Posts
i just installed Shimano SPD XT 8100 two sided pedals
after being on Speedplay Frogs for 15 years. Even with the pedal tension adjusted to the least tension I still found it a bit of a challenge to unclip. Not terrible, just not a no brainer. The pedals come with SH51 cleats included in the box. I bought a separate set of SH56 cleats and the difference is night and day easier with SH56. Like zero problem exiting ever.
#25
Senior Member
Get Shimano SPD pedals. A big added bonus is that you can actually walk in the shoes with SPD cleats without feeling like you are wearing skates on steps. I keep the tension on my pedals really low. After a long ride when my legs are like noodles I can get out of my pedals quickly.