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Your gearing

Old 05-23-16, 08:29 PM
  #51  
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What's more important than anything is to race the gear that you're in. People who use smaller gears have to race differently than those who run larger gears. In a Wednesday night points race at Dick Lane, you'll see everything from 90-102 in the A race with no direct correlation as to which gear performs better. I've been running a relatively big gear for my timed events this year, and sometimes I get lazy and leave it on for the next few weeks. In that situation, I just have to adjust and race accordingly. I'd say just try a bunch of different gears and ride whatever feels good.
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Old 05-23-16, 11:53 PM
  #52  
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Gears

Want to know which one is your next step up? I made this handy table.


All the possible combinations with 44-56 chainrings and cogs from 12 thru 18.

I have one printed and I circled the gear combinations I use.
50x15 for most trainings and 48x14 for racing (333m track)

I like it because I can see the equivalences and overlaps of the gears.

Also, look on the table to the right for the exact nominal gear inch ratio.

Here is the table with higher resolution:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k5mlbzj8im...n2016.png?dl=0

Compact Version (48-52 x 13-16):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hl3timxrcf...mpact.png?dl=0
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File Type: jpg
GearsCen16.jpg (129.2 KB, 607 views)

Last edited by Cen; 05-24-16 at 12:31 AM.
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Old 09-19-16, 02:59 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Cen View Post
50x15 for most trainings and 48x14 for racing (333m track)

A little late to the thread here, but I'm curious what events you tend to race Cen?
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Old 09-09-19, 01:12 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
This sounds reasonable.

I have a free app in the Apple App Store called "Track Cycling Gear Calculator". It will help you keep track of the gears you can make.

Pay close attention to your cadences. Learn to feel the 3 sensations:

1) Gear is too big: This is often called, "Under the gear", "Bogged down", or "Couldn't get on top of it.". This is because you can't get up to your optimal cadence range.

2) Gear is too small: This is often called, "Spinning out", "Spinning like a hamster", "Revving out". This is where the gear is so small/light that you are capable of going past your optimal cadence range.

3) Gear is perfect: This is called, "On top of the gear."

...just like Goldilocks!



You will find that your gearing will evolve with your rest, fitness, and as the season progresses. What feels good one week may feel awful the next. Feel is important in gearing....and cadence
This is great. I'm working on gear selection, and noticing that I'm feeling decent (manageable HR max) at 120-126 rpm in a sprint, and in current fitness, that's matching to 100-102 gear inches. But that's for a relative newb in the 200, lots to learn, but enjoying it immensely.

Will experiment with gearing for matches; thinking initially, I should be down in the 94-96 area. That's what I'm using in general practice, and it feels light enough to get up to speed suddenly without bogging down badly, but still has enough top end for a lap or two at decent speed. I'm not naturally a high cadence person. Once I get some diligent strength training in, I might adjust, but going by feel right now, it's apparent that I'm not really ready for big gearing (over 102).

Last edited by Super D; 09-10-19 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 09-10-19, 08:58 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by taras0000 View Post
A typo.
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Old 09-10-19, 08:28 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
I couldn't remember what that pertained to. Had to go WAAAAY back and even then it took me a sec before i got my own joke. Lol
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Old 09-11-19, 08:00 AM
  #57  
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Good humor never dies
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Old 09-12-19, 09:45 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Super D View Post
This is great. I'm working on gear selection, and noticing that I'm feeling decent (manageable HR max) at 120-126 rpm in a sprint, and in current fitness, that's matching to 100-102 gear inches. But that's for a relative newb in the 200, lots to learn, but enjoying it immensely.

Will experiment with gearing for matches; thinking initially, I should be down in the 94-96 area. That's what I'm using in general practice, and it feels light enough to get up to speed suddenly without bogging down badly, but still has enough top end for a lap or two at decent speed. I'm not naturally a high cadence person. Once I get some diligent strength training in, I might adjust, but going by feel right now, it's apparent that I'm not really ready for big gearing (over 102).
That sounds about right. I think most of us locally get it up to 135 - 140rpm in training. Certainly practice in a low gear and teach yourself how to spin (without bouncing too much!). Some races limit the field to 90 inches, so you should (eventually) be able to go all out at that gearing (although sometimes that makes me feel like my heart is going to pop!).

Long ago when I started, I thought at first I had some early form of asthma as I just couldn't breath and people were passing me. Then I realized that 48x16 was just a little too low when I was in good shape. LOL.
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Old 09-12-19, 11:47 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by chas58 View Post
That sounds about right. I think most of us locally get it up to 135 - 140rpm in training. Certainly practice in a low gear and teach yourself how to spin (without bouncing too much!). Some races limit the field to 90 inches, so you should (eventually) be able to go all out at that gearing (although sometimes that makes me feel like my heart is going to pop!).

Long ago when I started, I thought at first I had some early form of asthma as I just couldn't breath and people were passing me. Then I realized that 48x16 was just a little too low when I was in good shape. LOL.
I did my first sprint event this week, maxed at 130 rpm. Made an effort to start ramping up my drive earlier than in practice on the 200 qualifier, and ended up nearly spinning out before the start line, lol. (Of course, that's just spinning out for me, maxing at 130, it's nothing for someone who is well-trained.)

I think because I'm used to pushing bigger gears and lower cadence in road TT (93-98 avg in races) and on road bikes, 130 feels like high cadence relatively.

I'll try 108 gearing in practice next for the 200 and see if I can get on top of that with an early ramp up. It felt like I could've this week, which was unexpected. Then I can go back down to 100 or 102 for matches.

Last edited by Super D; 09-13-19 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 09-13-19, 07:40 AM
  #60  
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130rpm is pretty good (if your are comfortable and smooth). Looking at our last training session - most people were not going much over 130. Some of the really fast guys peaked at 140.
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Old 09-13-19, 05:11 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by chas58 View Post
130rpm is pretty good (if your are comfortable and smooth). Looking at our last training session - most people were not going much over 130. Some of the really fast guys peaked at 140.
It felt reasonably smooth, until I got out of the saddle leading up to the start line, then I was pretty un-smooth and felt like an out-of-balance laundry machine. (I should've just stayed seated, lesson learned for next time.)

130 feels as fast as I can comfortably spin with any fluidity. I'd say I could develop higher cadence with some diligent training in smaller gears, which may be true, but...I'm not so sure I should focus on bringing max cadence up. HR in the sprints was peaking at 180, and although I've seen higher HR's in road race sprints, I don't think spinning higher cadence with max HR as a practice may be a safe path for me. If I can build some leg strength, run heavier gearing, and generate speed without spinning up higher (including not driving my respiratory rate and HR higher), my perception is that it'll be easier on my heart and I may last longer as a cyclist. Of course, that's just a personal theory (with some cautionary thoughts from family heart health history lurking in the background).

All of these self-cautionary thoughts aside, there is no doubt that pedaling smoothness can benefit from training with lower gearing and faster spinning. It just doesn't necessarily have to be under high power output.
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Old 09-14-19, 02:24 AM
  #62  
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Regarding gearing and cadence, I think it's great practice to train on gears both much larger and much smaller than your race gears to stretch your power-at-cadence range. I will sometimes train on 51/12, 49/13, and 48/14 all in the same session even, depending on time of the season.
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Old 09-14-19, 04:32 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
Regarding gearing and cadence, I think it's great practice to train on gears both much larger and much smaller than your race gears to stretch your power-at-cadence range. I will sometimes train on 51/12, 49/13, and 48/14 all in the same session even, depending on time of the season.
I think Iím going to start doing that. Sounds like a good balance, high, middle and low. I ran 108 for 200m practice, then 100 for slow speed match positioning practice, also needed to run 94 or below for some spinning but ran out of time. Maybe took too much rest in between efforts. Resting is fun.
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Old 09-15-19, 05:45 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Cen View Post
Want to know which one is your next step up? I made this handy table.


All the possible combinations with 44-56 chainrings and cogs from 12 thru 18.

I have one printed and I circled the gear combinations I use.
50x15 for most trainings and 48x14 for racing (333m track)

I like it because I can see the equivalences and overlaps of the gears.

Also, look on the table to the right for the exact nominal gear inch ratio.

Here is the table with higher resolution:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k5mlbzj8im...n2016.png?dl=0

Compact Version (48-52 x 13-16):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hl3timxrcf...mpact.png?dl=0
That chart you made is great, is it still available for download somewhere? The dropbox link doesn't seem to work anymore. Thank you.
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Old 09-25-19, 04:39 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Super D View Post
That chart you made is great, is it still available for download somewhere? The dropbox link doesn't seem to work anymore. Thank you.
Hi Super D,

I have a copy of Cens spreadsheet here. I added some extra gears to the sheet up to 63t for bigger sprinting ratios. There is some highlighting in the sheets that i added for my own use, but that should be easy for you to remove.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=11G...bQfVyBnkySBTZG

Cen - if you see this & want me to remove this file, please say so and I will do as it is your work and i take no credit for it.

Last edited by Kaben; 09-25-19 at 04:43 AM.
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Old 09-25-19, 01:00 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Kaben View Post
Hi Super D,

I have a copy of Cens spreadsheet here. I added some extra gears to the sheet up to 63t for bigger sprinting ratios. There is some highlighting in the sheets that i added for my own use, but that should be easy for you to remove.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=11G...bQfVyBnkySBTZG

Cen - if you see this & want me to remove this file, please say so and I will do as it is your work and i take no credit for it.
Super helpful, thank you. It's pretty funny looking at the numbers, it's abundantly clear that I need to do two simple things: run bigger gearing, and pedal faster. So simple.
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Old 09-26-19, 12:41 AM
  #67  
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If you are an iPhone user, I made a free app in the App Store called "Track Cycling Gear Calculator" that helps with all of that. It even let's you keep an inventory of your road and track bike chainrings and cogs. I created a "Reverse Gear Calculator" feature that, for a given gear inch/meter/ratio, present you chainring/cog options.

It also has a normal gear calculator feature where you just enter chainring/cog and it calculates gear inches, meters, and ratio depending on what's common in your region of the world.



https://apps.apple.com/us/app/track-...or/id925659197
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Old 09-26-19, 09:53 PM
  #68  
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@carlton thatís amazing, thank you for sharing that! Do you ever get to San Diego? I canít accept using the app for free, I have to pay you in fish tacos. Take me up on it, please.

Is it difficult to add parameters? Now that weíre looking at the spreadsheet with RPM and seeing resultant speed per gearing combination, itís kind of changing the way Iím looking at gearing overall. Iím thinking for the 200, the resultant max speed is the why, and RPM is the how.

Not to oversimplify... of course, there are situations beyond the 200 where other factors come into play, such as spooling up from a standing start, length of race, etc. Iím starting to understand gearing basics better. This is so helpful.
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Old 09-26-19, 11:30 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Super D View Post
@carlton that’s amazing, thank you for sharing that! Do you ever get to San Diego? I can’t accept using the app for free, I have to pay you in fish tacos. Take me up on it, please.
Deal!


Originally Posted by Super D View Post
Is it difficult to add parameters? Now that we’re looking at the spreadsheet with RPM and seeing resultant speed per gearing combination, it’s kind of changing the way I’m looking at gearing overall. I’m thinking for the 200, the resultant max speed is the why, and RPM is the how.

Not to oversimplify... of course, there are situations beyond the 200 where other factors come into play, such as spooling up from a standing start, length of race, etc. I’m starting to understand gearing basics better. This is so helpful.
Hmmm....let me think about it...


That's in my other app...for that I charge A LOT.

...$1.99

Look for the "Simulator" feature in the app. You can change parameters and see what the calculator computes your time to be. It's the 3rd image here:



I can't link directly to it because I'm not a paying advertiser here and I don't want to get in hot water. But, if you click the link above and then click my name, you'll see my apps. Or search the store for "Track Cycling Stopwatch" or "Carleton Hall".

EDIT: I removed the head to head TT part from my app. I need to remove it from the screenshot.

BTW, Lots of top coaches and athletes use this. I've even seen it used on WR attempts. My buddy says he saw a coach using it on the Rio Olympics.

I should charge more...
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Old 09-26-19, 11:33 PM
  #70  
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I can vouch for this app, it's super useful. I use it everytime I train at home of at the track. Buy it.
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Old 09-26-19, 11:39 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Deal!




Hmmm....let me think about it...


That's in my other app...for that I charge A LOT.

...$1.99

Look for the "Simulator" feature in the app. You can change parameters and see what the calculator computes your time to be. It's the 3rd image here:



I can't link directly to it because I'm not a paying advertiser here and I don't want to get in hot water. But, if you click the link above and then click my name, you'll see my apps. Or search the store for "Track Cycling Stopwatch" or "Carleton Hall".

EDIT: I removed the head to head TT part from my app. I need to remove it from the screenshot.

BTW, Lots of top coaches and athletes use this. I've even seen it used on WR attempts. My buddy says he saw a coach using it on the Rio Olympics.

I should charge more...
Very cool, buying it now!
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Old 09-27-19, 12:38 AM
  #72  
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@carleton ka-ching!
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Old 09-27-19, 12:48 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
I can vouch for this app, it's super useful. I use it everytime I train at home of at the track. Buy it.
Great app! Playing with it now, my wifeís asking when Iím coming to bed. She has no idea Iím fantasizing about gearing to drop into the low 11ís and 40mph max speed instead of what Iím supposed to be focused on, lol! (Carlís getting me in trouble.)
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Old 09-27-19, 01:07 AM
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This thing is great. This app and a speedo with max speed (and the occasional stop watch/operator) is all the data I have at my disposal and it doesn't seem to be slowing me down. Who needs a power meter?
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Old 09-27-19, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
This thing is great. This app and a speedo with max speed (and the occasional stop watch/operator) is all the data I have at my disposal and it doesn't seem to be slowing me down. Who needs a power meter?
Was thinking the same. If RPMís and corresponding max speed are coming upward in a given gear combo over time, power increase is a given, so itís not really required.

I have a power crank on my TT bike, but basically, I look at the avg speed target for a race and manage that instead of power during the race, so power is sort of a retrospective supporting data point. HR with a 10s time range is something Iím experimenting with as well, because whatever health and fatigue state Iím in that day, I know from 163-170bpm is my hour avg HR threshold, so if Iím putting in long efforts to bring my avg speed up, I know Iíll need to avoid going over 170 for too long, unless itís the last 1-2k where you dump all remaining matches and die the last few deaths.
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