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What is my sealed bottom bracket? NOT shimano

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Old 11-01-20, 10:12 PM
  #26  
Nubra 
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Originally Posted by Nubra
Doug couldn't find documentation, but I will continue to investigate and will post photos on next post.

Here are the photos, as requested, not the best, but I only have an old iphone. Just for you all! Any an all comments welcome. As I said earlier, this is a sentimental restoration being done on a budget. I really need to get that BB out so we can get rid of the rust!


Hard to see but these are Campy dropouts. One mechanic said these are pretty good, as they are longer and not prone to breaking like the shorter ones. Can't remember the number designation he gave them.

Stem is frozen, don't have it out yet. We had to cut the Campy seatpost after multiple attempts to remove it, then cut the interior so that we could squeeze the tube. Even then I had an automechanic friend use his air hammer to beat it out using a vicegrip clamped to the post.


Cinelli stem and bars.


OUCH! chain drop damage on chain stay.




May not see it, but bottom bracket shell lugs are infiltrated with rust.





Only thing on headset is "King sealed Bearing"




Lots of rust worms all over the place



Still haven't gotten the BB out
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Old 11-07-20, 09:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
I concur; looks like a Phil mounting ring (N.B. Phil rings do fit other cartridges, so there's a small, but non-zero chance that the cartridge itself might not be Phil).
But not closely enough to use the same tool as Phil
LOVE the "non-zero" qualifier.
Still haven't gotten the Phil rings off. Will continue to try! Cheers,
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Old 11-07-20, 09:26 PM
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...if you are going to treat that whole BB shell area for rust, prime and repaint it anyway, mix up some 50/50 Acetone/ATF in a small squeeze bottle. Then take a propane or MAPP gas torch, and heat the shell area around the rings on each side. When hot, dribble in some of that mixture at the seam where the ring goes into the shell (the threading area). Let id cool once, then repeat. The rings should come right out.

The instructions for mounting these from Phil Wood include using Loctite on the treading for installation, so you usually end up having to use some heat anyway, to break that free. If the original install was done with red Loctite (some are), you need quite a bit of heat. But there's so much rust right now that you will need to treat, prime and spot paint that area anyway, so it shouldn't be a big deal.

Those BB units from Phil Wood are guaranteed for life, so they will probably rebuild it for you with new bearings, if you have the time and ambition to send it to them.
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Old 11-08-20, 09:34 AM
  #29  
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Thanks for the photos.
I take back my early guess at Eisentraut limited. Almost all the frame details are wrong for that assessment.
Brent
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Old 11-08-20, 08:21 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by obrentharris
Thanks for the photos.
I take back my early guess at Eisentraut limited. Almost all the frame details are wrong for that assessment.
Brent
Thanks Brent!. Appreciate the expertise. There is a bike builder here in town who is going to take a look at the frame to see if anything can be done with that really bad chain stay dent. I'll let him know that it probably isn't an Eisentraut.
Cheers!
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Old 11-08-20, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
...if you are going to treat that whole BB shell area for rust, prime and repaint it anyway, mix up some 50/50 Acetone/ATF in a small squeeze bottle...
Those BB units from Phil Wood are guaranteed for life, so they will probably rebuild it for you with new bearings, if you have the time and ambition to send it to them.
Okay! Will give that a try. I haven't had any luck getting it off so far. Another mechanic suggested I use a propane torch, but I didn't have such specific details. ATF is auto transmission fluid?
I live only 30 minute drive from the PW shop in downtown San Jose. I called them, and they charge only $35 for rebuild. If I can get it out, I will have them do it.
TNX a million for your instructions.
Cheers!
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Old 11-15-20, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by obrentharris
Thanks for the photos.
I take back my early guess at Eisentraut limited. Almost all the frame details are wrong for that assessment.
Brent
Hey Brent,
I went to see Paul at Rock Lobster. He said it was a nice frame but he couldn't rule out Eisentraut. Just didn't know. Turns out Paul remembered me from my early biking days when he worked at a LBS. That guy has one really good memory for names! Lucky for me, as he is going to do a repair to the chainstay damage. Nothing fancy, but just some braze on (we can't afford to try and replace the stay). Will strengthen the stay and look better too.
Will send more photos when restoration is further along. With help from others on this forum, I was able to remove the PW bottom bracket and it will go off to their shop for rebuild. I am going to tacke the clean up of the King Headset. If I mess it up, will order new bearings. The headset felt excellent, just had to remove it so I can do painting. It will have to be rattle can, but with all the rust worms, it will be better than nothing.
Cheers
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Old 11-15-20, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
...if you are going to treat that whole BB shell area for rust, prime and repaint it anyway, ....

Those BB units from Phil Wood are guaranteed for life, so they will probably rebuild it for you with new bearings, if you have the time and ambition to send it to them.
Thanks a million! Your instructions worked perfectly. BB is out and I am taking over to the PW shop when I go to San Jose this next week. Already talked to them. Really nice guys and happy to see old BB for repair. I've looked into various level of pro sand and paint, and our budget doesn't allow for $$ for it. I'm opting for them to blast it, then I am going to rattle-can it. I found some paints called "Spray.bike" for bikes and I think that at least I can protect the frame.
Cheers!
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Old 11-15-20, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Nubra
Hey Brent,
I went to see Paul at Rock Lobster. He said it was a nice frame but he couldn't rule out Eisentraut. Just didn't know. Turns out Paul remembered me from my early biking days when he worked at a LBS. That guy has one really good memory for names! Lucky for me, as he is going to do a repair to the chainstay damage. Nothing fancy, but just some braze on (we can't afford to try and replace the stay). Will strengthen the stay and look better too.
Will send more photos when restoration is further along. With help from others on this forum, I was able to remove the PW bottom bracket and it will go off to their shop for rebuild. I am going to tacke the clean up of the King Headset. If I mess it up, will order new bearings. The headset felt excellent, just had to remove it so I can do painting. It will have to be rattle can, but with all the rust worms, it will be better than nothing.
Cheers
Nubra
Glad you hooked up with Paul. What a great guy!
Brent
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Old 11-15-20, 08:59 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by clubman
Similarly, I bought a Raleigh Clubman with Phil rings, Shimano spindle and cranks. Bummer. Sold the 26 tpi rings.
Originally Posted by rustystrings61
Don't give up on the Phil mounting rings; PowerBlaster is your friend. See if you can carefully start infiltrating the stuff right where the rings join the BB shell, without getting too much into the bearings themselves. If it freed up the bolts holding the bed of my '97 Ford Ranger in place, it'll probably work for this, too!
Originally Posted by The Golden Boy
The older ones have the logo just either painted or screened on, and it does come off.
Originally Posted by Nubra
I believe you about your truck bolts. I used PowerBlaster for several years until I found Kroil, and I use that pretty exclusively now. Not only is the BB rusted into the Shell, the rings themselves look kinda banged up. All the splines look good but the face on the non-driveside has some real ding marks. THey don't extend to the shell however, so there is hope. This bike apparently made two trips across the US, in its day.
I found a LBS mechanic, in his 60's, who has a PW BB removal tool. He works one day a weeks for fun. He will lend it to me. Also, really nice community here in Santa Cruz.
Cheers!
Nubra
Originally Posted by 3alarmer
...if you are going to treat that whole BB shell area for rust, prime and repaint it anyway, mix up some 50/50 Acetone/ATF in a small squeeze bottle. Then take a propane or MAPP gas torch, and heat the shell area around the rings on each side. When hot, dribble in some of that mixture at the seam where the ring goes into the shell (the threading area). Let id cool once, then repeat. The rings should come right out.

The instructions for mounting these from Phil Wood include using Loctite on the treading for installation, so you usually end up having to use some heat anyway, to break that free. If the original install was done with red Loctite (some are), you need quite a bit of heat. But there's so much rust right now that you will need to treat, prime and spot paint that area anyway, so it shouldn't be a big deal.

Those BB units from Phil Wood are guaranteed for life, so they will probably rebuild it for you with new bearings, if you have the time and ambition to send it to them.
Hello all,
Following 3alarmer suggestions, quoted above, I got the Phil Wood rings off and it is INDEED a PW bottom bracket!
BB is out and I am taking over to the PW shop when I go to San Jose this next week. Already talked to them. Really nice guys and one older fellow seemed very happy to see old BB for repair. I've looked into various level of pro sand and paint, and our budget doesn't allow for $$ for it. I am going to rattle-can it with paints called "Spray.bike" for and I think that at least I can protect the frame. Lucky for me, I found a frame maker here in Santa Cruz who will do a repair to the banged up chainstay within reasonable $. Nothing fancy, but will strengthen and remove the ugly.
Thought I would let you all know that I am going to do a small rebuild thread on this bike. Thanks for all the really helpful info! It has made it possible for me to tackle this very important project.
Cheers!
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Old 11-16-20, 02:14 PM
  #36  
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It's an RGF (Gargette Bros) BB shell and don't see any details that cry out "Eisentraut" or and of his many Calif framebuilder "students" (many of whom are "maestros" now). But the stay caps are unique (and no idea whose) looks like the pinch-bolt ears are also a bit "finessed". Did you determine the BB threading was British/ISO? A Gargette shell could be either that or FR (but don't think they made them in Ital or Swiss)
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Old 11-18-20, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by noobinsf
Albert Eisentraut. Frame pic, yes please! We love Eisentrauts here.
Originally Posted by merziac
He went through many transitions, had many students, apprentices, disciples, etc. including Bruce Gordon and others, he did production and spec frames as well.

I wouldn't rule him or one of his tribe out, he cast a very wide net, many variations over a very long timeline.
Originally Posted by obrentharris
The one photo you have posted looks like the bottom bracket shell used in the Eisentraut "Limited," a less expensive frame than the signature but still a very nice frameset. Please post more photos.

There is a small chance that I sold that frame to your friend's father. In the late seventies I worked in a Santa Cruz shop that sold Eisentraut frames.

Brent
Originally Posted by 3alarmer
...if you are going to treat that whole BB shell area for rust,

Those BB units from Phil Wood are guaranteed for life, so they will probably rebuild it for you with new bearings, if you have the time and ambition to send it to them.
Originally Posted by unworthy1
It's an RGF (Gargette Bros) BB shell and don't see any details that cry out "Eisentraut" or and of his many Calif framebuilder "students" (many of whom are "maestros" now). But the stay caps are unique (and no idea whose) looks like the pinch-bolt ears are also a bit "finessed". Did you determine the BB threading was British/ISO? A Gargette shell could be either that or FR (but don't think they made them in Ital or Swiss)

Hello all,
Thought you might be interested as I got this email from Sean, the intended recipient of this bike restoration. He is my friend's son, and grandson to original bike owner.

"Sasso (Dale) is the original frame builder., I think he was active from the 70s to 90s. Among the geekiest of the classic bike people, he's at least a California legend. In 2006, I was in Sean Walling's garage aka Soulcraft cycles on a field trip with my bike building class, and Sean's former employer Ross Shafer, the founder of Salsa cycles, was there. Ross saw the Mariposa and was able to tell me with near-certainty who built it on sight (I had to ask grandma to verify, I emailed him to confirm). Something about the braze quality and the lug shapes tipped him off."

The mystery is solved!

I have successfully removed the Phill Wood bottom bracket and pulled the Chris King headcups and crown race. The bike is off to the shop for sandblasting, over to Paul Sadoff's shop at Rock Lobster, here in town, for brazing of the chain stay, and back to be painted. I've found some fairly reasonable replacements for missing parts, seatpost (Going to use a Fluted SR laprade) and working on some TA crank caps.

Cheers,
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Old 11-18-20, 03:03 PM
  #38  
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Not much info out there on Dale Sasso, except that he was based in San Jose and most people who say anything about his work have praise for him
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Old 11-18-20, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by unworthy1
It's an RGF (Gargette Bros) BB shell and don't see any details that cry out "Eisentraut" or and of his many Calif framebuilder "students" (many of whom are "maestros" now). But the stay caps are unique (and no idea whose) looks like the pinch-bolt ears are also a bit "finessed". Did you determine the BB threading was British/ISO? A Gargette shell could be either that or FR (but don't think they made them in Ital or Swiss)
It is ISO threading on BB.
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