shuru421

Troof.

sykerocker 

I've got a sliding scale of what I'm willing to do restoring a bike:

1. If it's pre-Bike Boom, the standard is factory original only. Period. I figure those bikes are rare enough to begin with, so I prefer to show them as they were originally built. Where I haven't come up with the proper parts yet, I'll substitute something that's period correct for the build year of the bike, or 2-3 years newer.

2. Seventies into the Eighties bikes, depending on my mood are either built to factory original or alternately something that would be an upgrade on a 3-5 year old bike back then.

3. Newer than that, pretty much anything goes, but given that I don't own anything more modern than my one bike with 7-speed Shimano RSX and brifters (an early 90's Diamondback), I usually end up staying pretty much within the age of the frame. Sold off my collection of brifterd bikes before leaving Montpelier, and the most modern I had back then was an aluminum/carbon Fuji with 9-speed Ultegra. Found I was enjoying riding the Rossins much more.

I've got no problem with putting modern state-of-the-art 11-speed on a vintage frame . . . . . . . . . except that costs too much money for my wallet, and given my riding abilities, it's not money well spent. 6-speed Shimano with downtube indexed shifters is still the sweet spot for me. Although, assuming I find a fourth Rossin RL 56cm frame, I'd be tempted to build it up totally modern just to see how it felt.

Road Fan

Same here - it doesn't feel like a reach. After riding bikes laid out like this since about 1970, it feels as natural as can be. I'm getting to the point where Ergos feel as familiar, but really, not quite there yet!

Chr0m0ly 

squirtdad

I find with modern brifters the ergonomics are such that I am on the hood 99% of the time......doing drops more as conditioning and reducing waistband allow

I have no problems with downtube....building up team miyata that way downtube friction.

I don't like barcons at all..... tried them (nice indexed 9 speed dura ace) and shifting always felt more awkward and off balance than a down tube, and I kept hitting them with my knee at stops resulting in uplanned shifts at the exact wrong time

Chrome Molly

bicyclridr4life

"Can I upgrade without having to upgrade a bunch of other things?"
Yes? Upgrade.
No? Forget it.
(Unless it's the RD from friction to indexed, or Shimano to SRAM. Then I include the shifters as part of the upgrade.)

sykerocker 

Brifters are one of the few modern improvements that I do actually consider an improvement. They are quite good. What I don't like about them is that they making riding too fussy. On a day out with the Diamondback, I shift about five times as often as I do with, say, one of the Rossin's. It's so convenient, the slightest uphill or downhill, I find myself shifting down or up a gear respectively. With downtube shifter, I just tramp on the pedal a little harder, or coast a little quicker.

RobbieTunes

I can relate. I still like downtube options, a lot. Shimano was smart to make 9sp and 10sp down tube shifters. For me, anyway. I used to get a kick out of mounting modern stuff on a classic bike, because someone almost always took the bait and said something about it, almost never favorable. It's become commonplace now, so I (sniff) don't get to argue as much as I used to.

Piff 

Wait wait wait. How the hell does your gearing system play nicely? I'm not well versed with 10spd stuff.

obrentharris 

Campy 10-speed shifters get along very nicely with Shimano 8-speed cassettes and rear derailleurs. Front derailleur doesn't matter since Campy front is ratcheting, not indexing. I learned about it somewhere here on C&V.

Several years ago I was given a set of Campy 10-speed levers that needed a rebuild and I had a couple sets of wheels with Shimano spacing on the freehubs so it was a cheap experiment that worked out very well. I've used it on several builds since then.
Brent

tiger1964 

Mostly, if a more modern part improves without looking out of place, I'll consider it. My daily-rider Palo Alto has a sealed-bearing headset and is getting a sealed bottom bracket. But, despite have neck/back problems for most of my adult life, I'm resisting riser stems. "Aero" brake levels and/or brifters are no-go, unless someone comes out with "cheater" brifters that look classic and have non-aero cables.

mstateglfr 

All my c&v bikes have been from '78-92. Never owned anything older.
Given that, my views arent based on keeping a 60 year old bike original as I havent come upon one for me.

I modernize all my c&v bikes to varying degrees.

Always update-
- crankset to a 50/34 or 48/34 compact double. Usually I use a Sugino or SR crank from the 80s so it looks period correct.
- wheels if needed. Always to cassette vs freewheel. And the cassette will be a decently wide range to allow for varied riding.
- tires, tape, pedals, and saddle. These are touch points for me and the bike so they must be comfortable. No plastic or cotton tape for example.
- bars. Soma Hwy1 bars are the go to. Inexpensive, fit well, and offered in silver.

Sometimes update-
- drivetrain. I usually keep it original if its something quality(mid-level or better) and indexed since all of my c&v bikes are 7 or 9sp and thats compatible with indexed Shimano.
- stem. I usually get a Nitto Dynamic II stem as its 90deg and is still a quill. Allows for better fit on the c&v frames I use.
- shifting. Indexed bar end shifters(for the touring bike) or STI/paddle shifting(for the road bikes). I have never liked downtube shifters and when Microshift 7, 8, and 9sp shifters cost $43 shipped to me, there is no downside to changing shifting over.



I like old steel with a mix of modern and period correct components. Its a lot of the fun for me- to mix and match to make a bike that works great for me.

mstateglfr 

None of my bikes have 'collector value'. Most bikes here dont have collector value. Those that do have collector value are procured to be displayed and not ridden, so this conversation is pretty moot for that type of bike.
I respectfully disagree that a modernized c&v frame is a poor substitute for a new bike. What I see is typically significantly less expensive and the quality is often time at the same level or better. My wife's road bike is a Cannondale Synapse with Sora drivetrain. It listed for almost $1100 retail 4 years ago. I have modernized c&v frames with higher level groupsets and better quality wheels that cost half as much.
I wouldnt ever sat that updating a bike is disrespecting our history either.


With that said, i love the look of an original 40 year old bike. It can be just beautiful.

Bandera

Since all of my now "C&V" bikes were purchased new, modified for my fit and functional requirements before they left the shop and have been kept in service since with whatever replacement hardware has been necessary they are part of my ongoing cycling history. That's all of the respect they are going to get.

-Bandera

pfaustus

I got my motobecane super touring new, when I was 15. I started swapping parts when the next Bike Warehouse arrived. As best as I can recall, I've never changed the headset. Just about everything else has been "upgraded", often more than once. My other bikes get modified as desired too. Brifters - done it. Triples - Usually. bar-cons- often. 27" to 700c conversions -sure. Raleigh three speeds would be the exception. I tend to look for period appropriate parts for those, if only because so little else fits.

jjhabbs 

I personally believe that there are no rules. However, If im going to retro-mod a bicycle I do the entire thing. I dont just upgrade brakes or drivetrain. I only did this once. see the Miyata below. I also have a factory retro-mod Masi. Made in Chitaly. I have one more retor-mod I would like to make. Maybe a Colnago steel frame with Newer Campagnolo Record.







I changed to a flat stem.
I personally believe that there are no rules. However, If im going to retromod a bicycle I do the entire thing. I dont just upgrade brakes or drivetrain. I only did this once. see the Miyata below. I also have a factory retromod Masi. Made in Chitaly. I have one more retormod I would like to make. Maybe a colnago steel frame with Newer Campagnolo Record.

Barrettscv 

Those turned out very nice. Congrats!

BrocLuno

Will it be more fun? Will it be lighter? Will it be cooler looking

AlmostGreenGuy

As long as it doesn't destroy the aesthetics of the bike, I'm cool with adding modern stuff.

I absolutely hated the original brake levers on my Grand Jubile, so I swapped out the levers for short reach Tektro's, and added some Tektro cross levers at the time time. The MKS Sylvan bike pedals fit right in with the French styling. The Orange Velo bottle cage doesn't seem out of place. The bike still looks beautiful to me, and it's a lot more comfy and functional on my 3-mile round trip bike commute.

The Golden Boy 

Well, to play devils abacus advocate... the hand you're reaching with has no control of the bars at any time from the beginning of the reach, during the shift, during the trim and the reach back up to the bars. Best case scenario, you avoid the time spent trimming. You could also miss a shift, taking even more time with 50% of your control removed from the handlebars.

It seems that many, many riders have adopted the position on the hoods- as riding on the hoods as a comfortable, viable location to ride from. When shifting from the hoods- even if you have to move position to get to the hoods, both hands are capable of being (if not already) in control of the handlebars during shifting. In a cursory Google Image search- without exception- every bicycle, regardless of the shortness of the top tube and regardless of how short or slammed the stem is, ALWAYS has the shifter boss lower than the bottom drops and well to the rear of the end of the bars, necessitating a reach downwards and rearwards to shift downtube shifters.


But since this thread is about individual "rules" about "modernizing" bikes- judging from pictures people have posted- there are a few aesthetic and functional choices that I would say are "questionable," (and a whole lot more that I think are outrageously fantastic), but the most important part is that people love what they're riding.

ratfink76

I don't know if I'd call them rules but I do have two visual preferences when I plan my builds.

First, I think the seatpost, crankset and stem should all be same color (all chrome or all black).

I also like saddle and bartape to match.. if the bartape is matched with something else on the bike (a color on the frame or the cables) then the saddle should be black or white.

RobbieTunes

The matching brows cue.

Ah, the "two eyes and a mouth" triangular visual cue...

….and the bleach blonde situation.

Bad Lag

I allowed my bike's components to evolve over the decades. The only things original were the seat post and saddle. Then, about ten years ago, I said to myself, "Screw it all!". I put the original equipment back on it and couldn't be happier.

I now have a 5 speed freewheel in the rear and Nuovo Record throughout. There are only two upgrades I kept to avoid maintenance - a Phil Wood bottom bracket (~1978) and Performance sealed bearing wheels.

Midnite

wow thats great