Official Carryme Owners QA Thread (tips, tricks, fixes, mods, etc)
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Official Carryme Owners QA Thread (tips, tricks, fixes, mods, etc)
I had a few questions asked to me via PM. So I thought it would be better to have this question and answer thread for posterity.
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carryme and big people
Is 210lbs too big for a carryme, would anyone say ?
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Officially, yes, but my wife and I rode home together 2.5 miles on mine friday night and my frame doesn't have any visible cracks. Yes, that's right, the two of us were on a single Carryme: me in a normal riding position and her standing on the rear rack trying to put as much weight onto my shoulders as possible (240 pounds total).
It was a bit chilly and when the diner surprised us by cutting back their hours to 3AM we didn't want to wait for the next bus. So it was a good thing I had my bike with me.
The official weight limit can, naturally, be found in the owner's manual and although you can probably take it with a grain of salt I think the Strida, with it's 100kg weight limit, might be a better choice for larger individuals like yourself.
It was a bit chilly and when the diner surprised us by cutting back their hours to 3AM we didn't want to wait for the next bus. So it was a good thing I had my bike with me.
The official weight limit can, naturally, be found in the owner's manual and although you can probably take it with a grain of salt I think the Strida, with it's 100kg weight limit, might be a better choice for larger individuals like yourself.
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Thanks for starting this thread makeinu
I always felt, how good it was to have for example one huge "swift thread" to make it easier to search and such.
Here is a first question: on my Carryme the seatpost seems to be rather narrow (standard 27,2mm) for the seat-tube. Or the other way round: I wonder if the tube is too big in diameter. The tube looks too big already when I insert the post. In other bikes I have, the posts slides more skintight into the tube.
What happens is, that when at maximum extension, I can move the post slightly in the tube with my hands. There is for/aft play even when QR is pulled very tight. When moving the post, I can hear the post "clacking" inside against the tube. The post is not slipping when I ride and it feels very stable, so I thought this maybe normal with such long post at maximum extension? Do people get this with long posts a maximum?
I always felt, how good it was to have for example one huge "swift thread" to make it easier to search and such.
Here is a first question: on my Carryme the seatpost seems to be rather narrow (standard 27,2mm) for the seat-tube. Or the other way round: I wonder if the tube is too big in diameter. The tube looks too big already when I insert the post. In other bikes I have, the posts slides more skintight into the tube.
What happens is, that when at maximum extension, I can move the post slightly in the tube with my hands. There is for/aft play even when QR is pulled very tight. When moving the post, I can hear the post "clacking" inside against the tube. The post is not slipping when I ride and it feels very stable, so I thought this maybe normal with such long post at maximum extension? Do people get this with long posts a maximum?
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Thanks for starting this thread makeinu
I always felt, how good it was to have for example one huge "swift thread" to make it easier to search and such.
Here is a first question: on my Carryme the seatpost seems to be rather narrow (standard 27,2mm) for the seat-tube. Or the other way round: I wonder if the tube is too big in diameter. The tube looks too big already when I insert the post. In other bikes I have, the posts slides more skintight into the tube.
What happens is, that when at maximum extension, I can move the post slightly in the tube with my hands. There is for/aft play even when QR is pulled very tight. When moving the post, I can hear the post "clacking" inside against the tube. The post is not slipping when I ride and it feels very stable, so I thought this maybe normal with such long post at maximum extension? Do people get this with long posts a maximum?
I always felt, how good it was to have for example one huge "swift thread" to make it easier to search and such.
Here is a first question: on my Carryme the seatpost seems to be rather narrow (standard 27,2mm) for the seat-tube. Or the other way round: I wonder if the tube is too big in diameter. The tube looks too big already when I insert the post. In other bikes I have, the posts slides more skintight into the tube.
What happens is, that when at maximum extension, I can move the post slightly in the tube with my hands. There is for/aft play even when QR is pulled very tight. When moving the post, I can hear the post "clacking" inside against the tube. The post is not slipping when I ride and it feels very stable, so I thought this maybe normal with such long post at maximum extension? Do people get this with long posts a maximum?
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Hi, all:
I did experience some play in the seatpost as well. Although I did not have the clacking sound it does need a tighter lock to support my weight.
I like the rubber band idea and would like to learn/share some mods/fixes as I commute more often.
I did experience some play in the seatpost as well. Although I did not have the clacking sound it does need a tighter lock to support my weight.
I like the rubber band idea and would like to learn/share some mods/fixes as I commute more often.
#8
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Question ... at the max extension of the seatpost, what is the total length to the center of the crank?
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thanks all for answering
hmhm, not sure if I understood what you mean? Well, its 80 cm from seatrail to center of pedal adapter. Its 64,5 cm from seatrail to center of bb und 27,3 cm from top of tube to saddlerail. The seatpost is only 8cm inside the tube at minimum insertion...but...
I looked again more carefully. It seems that actually my impression was mislead and "the play" is actually not at the seat clamp but a little lower, where makeinu said:
the seat-stays being not welded to the seat-tube but snap into a lock for folding issues and the tube clacks against that "lock":
Still I feel the post is unusually small in diameter for the tube. The tube has to be pressed very hard. After closing the seatclamp the ***** in the tube is, at the top, a whole 1mm smaller (3mm) then at the bottom (=4mm), feels much for me. What you think?
After all it should be fine though, sorry for hassle, I will try the "suspension" idea.
I looked again more carefully. It seems that actually my impression was mislead and "the play" is actually not at the seat clamp but a little lower, where makeinu said:
the seat-stays being not welded to the seat-tube but snap into a lock for folding issues and the tube clacks against that "lock":
Still I feel the post is unusually small in diameter for the tube. The tube has to be pressed very hard. After closing the seatclamp the ***** in the tube is, at the top, a whole 1mm smaller (3mm) then at the bottom (=4mm), feels much for me. What you think?
After all it should be fine though, sorry for hassle, I will try the "suspension" idea.
#11
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Is the seatpost replaceable? Could one just use a longer seatpost to get more extension? Of course, there would be a limit with regards to maintaining its small fold when one inserts the seatpost as far as possible.
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Hi, thx for caring.
Ah the red line. That is 64,5 cm (I call it "from seatrail to center of bb"). Yes, I will swap the seatpost for a longer one. The regular seatpost is already 35mm so I will have to look for 40mm or more which are not that frequent. I spoke to Tom from Pacific Cycles about this issue of swapping the post. He warned me, that the tube might be bent then because of higher leverage, no guaranty any more then. (I don't have that anyway, have no bill) Then I spoke to Mark Sanders about this issue and he said with my weight I could relax and do it. The bike is free for 85kg and at that weight, he would not recommend to use a longer post.
Yes, folding size will be compromised but footprint here seems more crucial to me then folded height, so no matter. And perhaps I also try a shim or a slightly bigger in diameter post (which would have to be an unusual diameter of 27,3 -27,4mm then). My worries are solved for the moment as the post is actually not moving, it was the "connection between Seat stays and seat tube.
Ah the red line. That is 64,5 cm (I call it "from seatrail to center of bb"). Yes, I will swap the seatpost for a longer one. The regular seatpost is already 35mm so I will have to look for 40mm or more which are not that frequent. I spoke to Tom from Pacific Cycles about this issue of swapping the post. He warned me, that the tube might be bent then because of higher leverage, no guaranty any more then. (I don't have that anyway, have no bill) Then I spoke to Mark Sanders about this issue and he said with my weight I could relax and do it. The bike is free for 85kg and at that weight, he would not recommend to use a longer post.
Yes, folding size will be compromised but footprint here seems more crucial to me then folded height, so no matter. And perhaps I also try a shim or a slightly bigger in diameter post (which would have to be an unusual diameter of 27,3 -27,4mm then). My worries are solved for the moment as the post is actually not moving, it was the "connection between Seat stays and seat tube.
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What is the horizontal distance between seat post and stem riser (which is called stem in the pic)? I found the CarryMe too cramped when I tested it, but that may be better with a longer stem (which was called 'extension stem' in the pic).
#15
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Ah the red line. That is 64,5 cm (I call it "from seatrail to center of bb"). Yes, I will swap the seatpost for a longer one. The regular seatpost is already 35mm so I will have to look for 40mm or more which are not that frequent. I spoke to Tom from Pacific Cycles about this issue of swapping the post. He warned me, that the tube might be bent then because of higher leverage, no guaranty any more then. (I don't have that anyway, have no bill) Then I spoke to Mark Sanders about this issue and he said with my weight I could relax and do it. The bike is free for 85kg and at that weight, he would not recommend to use a longer post.
Yes, folding size will be compromised but footprint here seems more crucial to me then folded height, so no matter. And perhaps I also try a shim or a slightly bigger in diameter post (which would have to be an unusual diameter of 27,3 -27,4mm then). My worries are solved for the moment as the post is actually not moving, it was the "connection between Seat stays and seat tube.
Yes, folding size will be compromised but footprint here seems more crucial to me then folded height, so no matter. And perhaps I also try a shim or a slightly bigger in diameter post (which would have to be an unusual diameter of 27,3 -27,4mm then). My worries are solved for the moment as the post is actually not moving, it was the "connection between Seat stays and seat tube.
Anyway, it is something to mull over. Thanks for the clarification.
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With the narrow wheelbase and my planned modifications it will probably be a "almost unicycle" experience
Michael Lin said that I was too long for the bike and that they will think about a slightly bigger Carryme for the West.
Last edited by somnatash; 09-24-08 at 12:39 AM.
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Here is a pic of a modified adapter for klickfix:
- but Pacific also sells a special bottlecage holder that is fixed to the same spot
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Yes its quite cramped - the distance between top of seat post (I measured from middle/center of clamp area - of laid back stem) to top of stem (center) is 45cm (when all extended to the max). I had the same idea like you Jur and think about ordering a longer high rise "extension stem" to get the bar higher and more forward, in addition to that perhaps some bullhorns - or some drops:
With the narrow wheelbase and my planned modifications it will probably be a "almost unicycle" experience
Michael Lin said that I was too long for the bike and that they will think about a slightly bigger Carryme for the West.
With the narrow wheelbase and my planned modifications it will probably be a "almost unicycle" experience
Michael Lin said that I was too long for the bike and that they will think about a slightly bigger Carryme for the West.
1. It allows you to put more weight on the handlebars without sacrificing an upright position. The typical "begging" upright position with the hands up high or far in front is very uncomfortable to me. I figure a lot of people like to ride flat backed because they really want more weight on the hands than because they actually like being stretched out, but with a short cockpit you don't have to. It's not aero, but anyone that thinks drop bars are aero when they could be riding a recumbent is just kidding themselves.
2. It allows you to better pull on the handlebars without standing and when you do stand you don't have to lean as far forward (which is good because the really short wheelbase makes the handling sensitive to changes in the weight distribution).
3. It keeps the stem riser from flexing when you pull on it because you're pulling it more lengthwise instead of backwards.
Honestly I think it's a better configuration that's not traditionally used simply because the toe overlap of larger wheels doesn't allow it.
Last edited by makeinu; 09-25-08 at 03:50 PM.
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makeinu, I can see your points and want to say that the narrow posture is comfy - but so far I could not get used to the knee/bar collusion risk, maybe with more practice.
Anyway, in another thread there arose the question how much weight you trimmed of your bike and if it was possible to get rid of 3lbs so get it to 15lbs.
Thats what my scale says about Carryme parts (and some expensive ideas):
Total =964 g ~ 2,1lbs
some weight loss if one files away the to rear brake cable holders, polishes frame, changes screws to ti or carbon, probably bb, stem and headset are candidates.
More difficult:cranks (160mm and 4 arms) and the axles?
no chance to save weight in wheels, chain, chainwheel.
Anyway, in another thread there arose the question how much weight you trimmed of your bike and if it was possible to get rid of 3lbs so get it to 15lbs.
Thats what my scale says about Carryme parts (and some expensive ideas):
Total =964 g ~ 2,1lbs
some weight loss if one files away the to rear brake cable holders, polishes frame, changes screws to ti or carbon, probably bb, stem and headset are candidates.
More difficult:cranks (160mm and 4 arms) and the axles?
no chance to save weight in wheels, chain, chainwheel.
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makeinu, I can see your points and want to say that the narrow posture is comfy - but so far I could not get used to the knee/bar collusion risk, maybe with more practice.
Anyway, in another thread there arose the question how much weight you trimmed of your bike and if it was possible to get rid of 3lbs so get it to 15lbs.
Thats what my scale says about Carryme parts (and some expensive ideas):
Total =964 g ~ 2,1lbs
some weight loss if one files away the to rear brake cable holders, polishes frame, changes screws to ti or carbon, probably bb, stem and headset are candidates.
More difficult:cranks (160mm and 4 arms) and the axles?
no chance to save weight in wheels, chain, chainwheel.
Anyway, in another thread there arose the question how much weight you trimmed of your bike and if it was possible to get rid of 3lbs so get it to 15lbs.
Thats what my scale says about Carryme parts (and some expensive ideas):
Total =964 g ~ 2,1lbs
some weight loss if one files away the to rear brake cable holders, polishes frame, changes screws to ti or carbon, probably bb, stem and headset are candidates.
More difficult:cranks (160mm and 4 arms) and the axles?
no chance to save weight in wheels, chain, chainwheel.
#21
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- stem is w/o bolts 163 gr
- additional rear rack = 144 gr
- front rack = 144 gr
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makeinu, I can see your points and want to say that the narrow posture is comfy - but so far I could not get used to the knee/bar collusion risk, maybe with more practice.
Anyway, in another thread there arose the question how much weight you trimmed of your bike and if it was possible to get rid of 3lbs so get it to 15lbs.
Thats what my scale says about Carryme parts (and some expensive ideas):
Total =964 g ~ 2,1lbs
some weight loss if one files away the to rear brake cable holders, polishes frame, changes screws to ti or carbon, probably bb, stem and headset are candidates.
More difficult:cranks (160mm and 4 arms) and the axles?
no chance to save weight in wheels, chain, chainwheel.
Anyway, in another thread there arose the question how much weight you trimmed of your bike and if it was possible to get rid of 3lbs so get it to 15lbs.
Thats what my scale says about Carryme parts (and some expensive ideas):
- getting rid of the rear brake (incl. lever + cable) - which is rather poor anyhow so not too much sacrifice: - 317 g
- getting rid of the kickstand: - 93 g
- seatpost = 332 g for tune starkes stück =180 g: - 152 g
- saddle = 371 g for Steinbach = 150 g: - 221 g
- grips = 2x45 g = 90 g for brompton grips = 2x7 g = 14 g: - 76 g
- pedals = 408 g for MKS Promenade = 303 g: - 105 g
Total =964 g ~ 2,1lbs
some weight loss if one files away the to rear brake cable holders, polishes frame, changes screws to ti or carbon, probably bb, stem and headset are candidates.
More difficult:cranks (160mm and 4 arms) and the axles?
no chance to save weight in wheels, chain, chainwheel.
2. I'm surprised that the Brompton grips are so much lighter. Does your Carryme have regular foam grips like mine or something else?
3. It would actually be very easy to save weight on the chain as there are plastic and mixed plastic/steel chains available in this size. There are also regular #25 chains (as opposed to the 25H, with thicker sideplates, that the Carryme is equipped with). Not sure if these would all snap in half on the first ride, but they are available and would certainly be lighter.
Last edited by makeinu; 09-27-08 at 11:13 AM.
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Grips came on my carryme look like solid rubber in grey and black certainly more heavy than foam but I believe brompton grips are within category of the lightest one can get.
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Thought I'd share some pics of my CM mods.
I put an Easton CT2 carbon fiber seatpost ($27 shipped on ebay) to save weight and eliminate the dirty metal filings that rub off aluminum seatposts:
CIMG4136.jpg
Speaking of saving weight, the kickstand is completely unecessary even for the unfolded bike:
CIMG4137.jpg
I also put an ISM Adamo Race saddle ($105 shipped from bikeisland.com with a no questions asked return policy) to save weight, increase comfort, and...
1. decrease the size of the fold:
CIMG4134.jpg
2. make the folded bike tightly lock together for easier handling:
CIMG4144.jpg
CIMG4145.jpg
CIMG4146.jpg
3. make it easy to hang off..
the side of a bar, table, or desk:
CIMG4128.jpg
CIMG4127.jpg
or coat hook:
CIMG4129.jpg
I put an Easton CT2 carbon fiber seatpost ($27 shipped on ebay) to save weight and eliminate the dirty metal filings that rub off aluminum seatposts:
CIMG4136.jpg
Speaking of saving weight, the kickstand is completely unecessary even for the unfolded bike:
CIMG4137.jpg
I also put an ISM Adamo Race saddle ($105 shipped from bikeisland.com with a no questions asked return policy) to save weight, increase comfort, and...
1. decrease the size of the fold:
CIMG4134.jpg
2. make the folded bike tightly lock together for easier handling:
CIMG4144.jpg
CIMG4145.jpg
CIMG4146.jpg
3. make it easy to hang off..
the side of a bar, table, or desk:
CIMG4128.jpg
CIMG4127.jpg
or coat hook:
CIMG4129.jpg
Last edited by makeinu; 11-02-08 at 09:38 PM.
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Very nice makeinu. I lusted after the Carryme a long time for basically a 5~6 km commute to the light rapid transit train station in a city setting. However, the price and lack of availability in Vancouver meant that the only viable option for a USA purchase + shipping. I ended getting a Xootr Scooter and have no regrets. Goes easy on the bus between my legs, at 10 lbs, is light, no chain, no pneumatic tires, I can maintain 20 km/h on a level asphalt surface with sprints of 23~24 km/h and is a zero-maintenance personal mobility device.
In your experience, what is a comfortable cruising speed on the Carryme?
In your experience, what is a comfortable cruising speed on the Carryme?