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Target/Kmart/Big W bike or an actual bike shop?

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Old 12-20-19, 01:02 PM
  #101  
Maelochs
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy
keep dreaming

single tracks did an article a few years back about 1500$ bikes compared to 6000$ bikes

you’d be surprised by what they found
Yeah, super /... completely irrelevant.

We are discussing bikes which cost $100--$2-00 versus bikes which cost at least five times that.

And I am not really swayed by what a magazine finds ... if it contradicts my decades of experience. I tell the truth because it is part of my faith. They say what sells ads because it is their business.

My currents stable includes bikes equipped with components from Altus and Claris, to Ultegra. All of it works and works pretty well, but the better stuff works better. Some guy at a magazine can write whatever he wants.
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Old 12-20-19, 01:08 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
Yeah, super /... completely irrelevant.

We are discussing bikes which cost $100--$2-00 versus bikes which cost at least five times that.

And I am not really swayed by what a magazine finds ... if it contradicts my decades of experience. I tell the truth because it is part of my faith. They say what sells ads because it is their business.

My currents stable includes bikes equipped with components from Altus and Claris, to Ultegra. All of it works and works pretty well, but the better stuff works better. Some guy at a magazine can write whatever he wants.

I crack up when I read the mags and they refer to $2000 bikes as "entry level". It's so outside the realm of reality for anyone but their ideal advertising demo that it might as well be a joke.
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Old 12-20-19, 01:08 PM
  #103  
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Yep, these are BSOs being discussed, a $1500 actual bicycle is totally irrelevant.
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Old 12-20-19, 01:08 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy
keep dreaming

single tracks did an article a few years back about 1500$ bikes compared to 6000$ bikes

you’d be surprised by what they found
I don’t that we’d be that surprised. But that’s close to an apples to oranges comparison. A $6000 bike compared to a $100 is even a cheese to chalk comparison...to use a much better comparison. A $1500 bike to a $100 bike isn’t even a cheese to chalk comparison. A $1500 bike is a pretty good mountain bike.
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Old 12-20-19, 06:31 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy
I can break parts on a 6000$ bike too. Light = expensive = breaks more often.
Lightweight and strong won't be cheap. It will be more expensive.
Strong and cheap will not be lightweight. It will be heavier.
Lightweight and cheap will not be strong. It will be weaker and cheaper.
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Old 12-20-19, 08:32 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by livedarklions
I crack up when I read the mags and they refer to $2000 bikes as "entry level". It's so outside the realm of reality for anyone but their ideal advertising demo that it might as well be a joke.
singletracks is not a magazine and they mostly test high end bikes. They have a great website and a ton of data and articles about mountain biking and cycling

I wish I could find the article from a few years back. Very informative on $$ vs reliability.
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Old 12-20-19, 08:34 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by Gconan
Lightweight and strong won't be cheap. It will be more expensive.
Strong and cheap will not be lightweight. It will be heavier.
Lightweight and cheap will not be strong. It will be weaker and cheaper.
you nailed it
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Old 12-21-19, 12:35 AM
  #108  
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The thing with the Bontrager 3-part choice is that you can expect to get at best 2 out of the 3. It is quite possible to get bicycle parts that are expensive and fragile. Or expensive and heavy. And obviously, in the case of cheap department store bikes, there are a lot of bikes and bike parts out there that are heavy and fragile.
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Old 12-21-19, 08:06 PM
  #109  
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Zappy set us up on this thread. He did a drive by post and started this thread and never again did he post . He is reading this getting a chuckle of the ping pong sessions on cheap vs expensive bikes.
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Old 12-22-19, 04:53 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy
Zappy set us up on this thread. He did a drive by post and started this thread and never again did he post . He is reading this getting a chuckle of the ping pong sessions on cheap vs expensive bikes.

Probably disappointed then, with Iowa troll on involuntary leave, the ping pong has been pretty polite, and relatively reasonable.
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Old 12-22-19, 06:37 AM
  #111  
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https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...s-walmart.html








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Old 12-22-19, 09:05 AM
  #112  
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Gotta love Kev Central

i am currently building up the Hyper Hydro project bike

i need to get a Cranbrook and do something with that.
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Old 12-22-19, 10:30 AM
  #113  
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By the way ./.... expensive and light is Not fragile. The reason it is expensive is because it is hard to make it both light and strong .... when it is light and strong, it is expensive.

So, yeah .... Dura-Ace is not fragiler because it is light. And the pro peloton pretty much proves this, eh?
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Old 12-22-19, 10:45 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
By the way ./.... expensive and light is Not fragile. The reason it is expensive is because it is hard to make it both light and strong .... when it is light and strong, it is expensive.

So, yeah .... Dura-Ace is not fragiler because it is light. And the pro peloton pretty much proves this, eh?
but that doesn’t mean it will last longer than the cheap bicycle part that is not getting replaced frequently like on a pro peloton bike
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Old 12-22-19, 11:18 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy
but that doesn’t mean it will last longer than the cheap bicycle part that is not getting replaced frequently like on a pro peloton bike
Based on my own multi-decade experience .... the better stuff lasts At least as long, stays adjusted longer, and works better from the first day onward.

The cheap stuff has cheaper materials, which not only wear faster, but also flex more (heavier, and weaker.) So yes .... the better stuff Does last longer, and works better. Maybe no one told you that highly engineered alloys are both stronger and lighter than plastic or pot metal ....

I have never replaced any of my Ultegra or 105 gear except after extreme wear because of extreme use, (ever cassette wears out if you ride enough miles ... Ultegra wears out but also weighs less and shifts better) of because of accident damage. Just as with all the rest of the gear ... which weighs more and works less well.

Sorry, but fact and engineering all say you are wrong.
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Old 12-22-19, 01:16 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
Based on my own multi-decade experience .... the better stuff lasts At least as long, stays adjusted longer, and works better from the first day onward.

The cheap stuff has cheaper materials, which not only wear faster, but also flex more (heavier, and weaker.) So yes .... the better stuff Does last longer, and works better. Maybe no one told you that highly engineered alloys are both stronger and lighter than plastic or pot metal ....

I have never replaced any of my Ultegra or 105 gear except after extreme wear because of extreme use, (ever cassette wears out if you ride enough miles ... Ultegra wears out but also weighs less and shifts better) of because of accident damage. Just as with all the rest of the gear ... which weighs more and works less well.

Sorry, but fact and engineering all say you are wrong.
might be stronger and lighter but it’s also thinner (road gear is different than mtb gear and should last longer due to less abuse).
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Old 12-22-19, 01:23 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy
might be stronger and lighter but it’s also thinner (road gear is different than mtb gear and should last longer due to less abuse).
You are incorrect, as has been pointed out several times. However, if you would post some legit links to support your position, some might be persuaded. "thinner...."
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Old 12-22-19, 02:45 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy
might be stronger and lighter but it’s also thinner (road gear is different than mtb gear and should last longer due to less abuse).
I have Shimano XTR, XT, SRAM X9 and SRAM X0 on a number of bikes. All of them are long in tooth. And all fo them would compare in terms of lightness with road bike equipment. The X0 uses a carbon front arm on the jockey pulleys. You can’t get any lighter nor more delicate. All of them also happen to have multiple thousands of miles on them in all kinds of conditions. One of my road bikes with an XT on it has 20,000 miles of commuting on it and my touring bike with XTR has 10,000 miles on it. None of them are coming close to wearing out.

I wouldn’t go so far as to say that Acera or Alivio wouldn’t last as long...they are pretty good if a little heavier...but the Tourney that you find on $99 HelMart bikes certainly wouldn’t last 20,000 miles. I’ve seen far too many of them that have very few miles on them and are already worn out to believe that.
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Old 12-22-19, 08:33 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I have Shimano XTR, XT, SRAM X9 and SRAM X0 on a number of bikes. All of them are long in tooth. And all fo them would compare in terms of lightness with road bike equipment. The X0 uses a carbon front arm on the jockey pulleys. You can’t get any lighter nor more delicate. All of them also happen to have multiple thousands of miles on them in all kinds of conditions. One of my road bikes with an XT on it has 20,000 miles of commuting on it and my touring bike with XTR has 10,000 miles on it. None of them are coming close to wearing out.

I wouldn’t go so far as to say that Acera or Alivio wouldn’t last as long...they are pretty good if a little heavier...but the Tourney that you find on $99 HelMart bikes certainly wouldn’t last 20,000 miles. I’ve seen far too many of them that have very few miles on them and are already worn out to believe that.
amen brother and why I recommend changing those out ASAP if a big box store bike is all someone can afford
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Old 12-23-19, 07:39 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy
amen brother and why I recommend changing those out ASAP if a big box store bike is all someone can afford
The problem with your logic is the HelMart bike to begin with. Each component that you change costs money. That makes the price of the $100 bike more each time you change something. At what point does the exercise become one of sunken costs (aka doubling down)? A $20 Acera rear derailer is 20% of the cost of that $100 bike. A $10 UN26 bottom bracket is 10% of the cost. A axle for the rear wheel is $10 and also 10% of the cost. A rear wheel...needed because the spokes are poorly tensioned or made of bad metal and prone to breaking...is $25 to $50 depending on whether you want something that will give you the same problems or will give you a little better service. Now you have a bike that has cost you $200 but it is still just a $100 bike.

Spend a bit more on a bike and you’ll have a better operating bike that doesn’t need constant replacement of parts. In the long run, it’s a better value.
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Old 12-23-19, 08:10 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Rajflyboy
amen brother and why I recommend changing those out ASAP if a big box store bike is all someone can afford
It's not worth upgrading a cheap department store bike with high end components. A high end derailleur + shifters costs more than an entire department store bike. If all that a person can afford is a cheap wallmart bike, how are they going to afford an expensive component which costs more than a whole bike ??
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Old 12-23-19, 08:52 AM
  #122  
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Beaten to death .... for about the sixth time.

If all someone can afford is a Walmart bike, there it is. But I would advise anyone depending on a Walmart bike for daily transport to scour the roadsides and bike-shop dumpsters for spare parts, especially wheels, but anything else.

If all some wants is a Walmart bike ... case closed.

If someone wants to ride a bike with minimal maintenance and minimal worry for a while .... go ahead.
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Old 12-23-19, 10:24 AM
  #123  
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I think I know who the OP is a sock of.
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Old 12-23-19, 11:48 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Vintage Schwinn
HERE IS A DECENT INEXPENSIVE ROAD BIKE THAT YOU CAN BUY FROM WALMART, TARGET, AND OTHERS.
*************IT IS AVAILABLE IN FOUR DIFFERENT FRAME SIZES*******
17 inch/42cm frame size MODEL #42717 .........700C LADIES KENT GMC DENALI ROAD BIKE 21 speeds
https://www.kent.bike/gmc/700c-gmc-denali-1743cm

20 inch frame MODEL #42720
22 inch frame MODEL #42722
25 inch frame MODEL #42725
( MENS 700C KENT GMC DENALI ROAD BIKE ....the 22 inch frame version WEIGHS 30 pounds....................21 speeds )
https://www.kent.bike/gmc/700c-gmc-denali-20

You have four different frame sizes! There is one that will likely suit most anyone.
Many people wrongly believe that it comes only in one frame size. You will see this misinformation among web postings by uninformed individuals saying the bike is utter trash because it comes from Target/Wal-mart and not from a proper bike shop.
***THIS BIKE HAS BEEN IN PRODUCTION FOR A LONG TIME NOW AND MANY FOLKS HAVE PLACED THOUSANDS OF MILES ON THE Kent GMC Denali.
You'll also see that there has been significant chronicling on bike forums of such longterm ownership reports attesting to the durability of this really inexpensive bike.
You can say that the Kent GMC DENALI has a cult following of thousands who praise it's value and durability. They also praise the simplicity of which one can make
upgrades which can increase both durability and the competitiveness in road riding and triathlon use. Now, an old fashioned heavy (30 pound) inexpensive bike WILL
PLACE YOU AT A SEVERE DISADVANTAGE GIVEN THE STOCK 48/38/28 front crank, and the weight, but it is relatively easy to change the FRONT CRANK To higher grade old style alloy 52/40/30, since this bike is old fashioned technology, so there are many alloy front Crank Wheels etc that can be swapped in from thirty year old bicycles. All of this can likely be accomplished by someone at home with some fairly inexpensive tools sourced from the web/ebay. I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND USING THIS BIKE TO COMPETE IN TRIATHLONS, BUT AS I MENTIONED EARLIER, A FRIEND OF MINE WON THE CLEMSON TRIATHLON IN JULY 2019 IN HER AGE DIVISION ABOARD A SLIGHTLY MODIFIED KENT GMC DENALI 21 SPEED ON THE STOCK 700C WHEELS. THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TRIATHLON THAT SHE HAS WON WHILE RIDING THIS KENT GMC DENALI !! She enjoys the challenge of winning while riding the KENT GMC DENALI, even though she does own some superb bikes that are probably more appropriate for Triathlon competitions!
https://bikemunk.com/gmc-denali-review/

https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting...i-bicycle.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting...li-review.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...ners-bike.html


https://www.bicycle-guider.com/gmc-d...d-bike-review/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXUw5J9mWIw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PytpXRe8-hc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xidKFK1TIIA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLbgf1vq6BY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWPgrn1jXmg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZT49JO2J3E

mine lasted a little over 500 miles
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Old 12-23-19, 12:24 PM
  #125  
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Even Mr. Cheap (that's me) doesn't ride the cheapest bikes

Originally Posted by zappy007
Hey guys,

I have a quick question.This might sound like a stupid question so bear with me kk ._.' I've started to get into cycling but I'm not sure which bike to purchase from. I know that department store bike are extremely cheap but what actually makes them different from bike store such as Giant or George Bike shop? Is it the materials that is the used? or the quality (most likely quality) but what makes them better quality than the department store?? The bike I'm hoping for are bikes that can travel on grass and gravel and it's for endurance so I'm using it to ride long miles.

Any answers and recommendation on where to purchase the bike from? Department or Bike store?

Thanks guys
Appreciate a lot if you reply!

Zappy
I've been poor most of my life and have ridden pretty much every kind of bike, mostly used. "Box store" (Walmart, K-Mart, like that) bikes wear out within a couple of months of daily riding. I don't ride off-road, jump curbs, or any of that, but the wheels either wobble when new or get that way quickly. Every part is cheap and things break even with gentle use. I've had bikes come with un-lubed bearings (trash the crank) and other failures, too. I don't worry about "big name" brands, but I notice what the box stores sell and I don't ride those. A decent used bike is a much better deal than a new junker at the same price and it will be cheaper in the long run.
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