Help me make this wheel useful
#1
Honorary Bicycle Rider
Thread Starter
Help me make this wheel useful
I ended up buying this wheelset, not exactly knowing what I was purchasing (neither did the seller).
1) I would like to convert this axle to QR or at least be able to use axle nuts. As pictured, I can not fit a freewheel over these lock nuts, which is my intention. I would like to use the Surly bearings, cups, etc, but this use maybe this axle and lock nuts only.
2). Do you have to have a specific tool to remove this single cog or will a chain whip work?
I know I could have posted this in single/ fixie forum, but I want to use this wheel/hub on a 12-speed bike.
1) I would like to convert this axle to QR or at least be able to use axle nuts. As pictured, I can not fit a freewheel over these lock nuts, which is my intention. I would like to use the Surly bearings, cups, etc, but this use maybe this axle and lock nuts only.
2). Do you have to have a specific tool to remove this single cog or will a chain whip work?
I know I could have posted this in single/ fixie forum, but I want to use this wheel/hub on a 12-speed bike.
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,003
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
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There are reasons why multi speed freewheel hubs are what they are and why single speed/fixie hubs are the way they are.
The lock nuts don't look big enough in diameter to hinder a freewheel's mounting. Please tell me what I am missing in your question. Do you know what type of bearing these hubs have? Some I've seen are cartridge units which wouldn't be compatible with a cup and cone axle (unless it's one of the very less common designs with a threaded sleeve run onto a conventional axle). If the goal is to have a longer axle to fit in a wider rear frame spread and to give clearance between the freewheel small cog and the frame then you need to ascertain the current axle design and specs first. Do this by removing the axle and measuring.
The cog has a reverse threaded lock ring which wants a lock ring tool with one hook and a slightly smaller curvature (or use a piece of something between the lock ring tool's curved portion and the lock ring). Then a common chain whip on the cog. It seems that you are new to track stuff...
While I have seen riders use a multi speed freewheel on a track hub before (with the proper respacing for mentioned cog/chain/stay clearance) I feel this is a case of questionable value. Likely the wheel will need redishing, spoke lengths might become an issue. With the few threads the freewheel will engage the hub with and that the small cog will be so far from those few threads don't be surprised if hub thread damage happens when the freewheel cocks on the hub shell during hard use.
Out of curiosity why not just get a proper road bike wheel? Andy
The lock nuts don't look big enough in diameter to hinder a freewheel's mounting. Please tell me what I am missing in your question. Do you know what type of bearing these hubs have? Some I've seen are cartridge units which wouldn't be compatible with a cup and cone axle (unless it's one of the very less common designs with a threaded sleeve run onto a conventional axle). If the goal is to have a longer axle to fit in a wider rear frame spread and to give clearance between the freewheel small cog and the frame then you need to ascertain the current axle design and specs first. Do this by removing the axle and measuring.
The cog has a reverse threaded lock ring which wants a lock ring tool with one hook and a slightly smaller curvature (or use a piece of something between the lock ring tool's curved portion and the lock ring). Then a common chain whip on the cog. It seems that you are new to track stuff...
While I have seen riders use a multi speed freewheel on a track hub before (with the proper respacing for mentioned cog/chain/stay clearance) I feel this is a case of questionable value. Likely the wheel will need redishing, spoke lengths might become an issue. With the few threads the freewheel will engage the hub with and that the small cog will be so far from those few threads don't be surprised if hub thread damage happens when the freewheel cocks on the hub shell during hard use.
Out of curiosity why not just get a proper road bike wheel? Andy
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AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#3
Senior Member
There are reasons why multi speed freewheel hubs are what they are and why single speed/fixie hubs are the way they are.
The lock nuts don't look big enough in diameter to hinder a freewheel's mounting. Please tell me what I am missing in your question. Do you know what type of bearing these hubs have? Some I've seen are cartridge units which wouldn't be compatible with a cup and cone axle (unless it's one of the very less common designs with a threaded sleeve run onto a conventional axle). If the goal is to have a longer axle to fit in a wider rear frame spread and to give clearance between the freewheel small cog and the frame then you need to ascertain the current axle design and specs first. Do this by removing the axle and measuring.
The cog has a reverse threaded lock ring which wants a lock ring tool with one hook and a slightly smaller curvature (or use a piece of something between the lock ring tool's curved portion and the lock ring). Then a common chain whip on the cog. It seems that you are new to track stuff...
While I have seen riders use a multi speed freewheel on a track hub before (with the proper respacing for mentioned cog/chain/stay clearance) I feel this is a case of questionable value. Likely the wheel will need redishing, spoke lengths might become an issue. With the few threads the freewheel will engage the hub with and that the small cog will be so far from those few threads don't be surprised if hub thread damage happens when the freewheel cocks on the hub shell during hard use.
Out of curiosity why not just get a proper road bike wheel? Andy
The lock nuts don't look big enough in diameter to hinder a freewheel's mounting. Please tell me what I am missing in your question. Do you know what type of bearing these hubs have? Some I've seen are cartridge units which wouldn't be compatible with a cup and cone axle (unless it's one of the very less common designs with a threaded sleeve run onto a conventional axle). If the goal is to have a longer axle to fit in a wider rear frame spread and to give clearance between the freewheel small cog and the frame then you need to ascertain the current axle design and specs first. Do this by removing the axle and measuring.
The cog has a reverse threaded lock ring which wants a lock ring tool with one hook and a slightly smaller curvature (or use a piece of something between the lock ring tool's curved portion and the lock ring). Then a common chain whip on the cog. It seems that you are new to track stuff...
While I have seen riders use a multi speed freewheel on a track hub before (with the proper respacing for mentioned cog/chain/stay clearance) I feel this is a case of questionable value. Likely the wheel will need redishing, spoke lengths might become an issue. With the few threads the freewheel will engage the hub with and that the small cog will be so far from those few threads don't be surprised if hub thread damage happens when the freewheel cocks on the hub shell during hard use.
Out of curiosity why not just get a proper road bike wheel? Andy
Dave