Running 11-32 Cassette w/105 SS Derailleur
#1
Just Pedaling
Thread Starter
Running 11-32 Cassette w/105 SS Derailleur
I'm not here to ask a question just to post some info in case someone else is considering upgrading from an 11-28 cassette to an 11-32 cassette. Them hills are getting steeper every year and now that I'm mid-70's I need taller gears to reach the top. Or at least I will next year. While this setup actually works, despite Shimano's claim otherwise, I will admit that shifting performance is slightly effected and it took me a bit of time to smooth it out. I should also add that it's not my intention to cross chain, I just don't want to screw something up if it happens and this works!
Small to Small gears 36T front-11T rear
36T-11T small to small
52T front-32T rear Large to Large
Large to Large 52T-11T
Info as follows: 2016 Fuji 2.0 Alloy frame/carbon fork It was Fuji's inexpensive race bike at the time.
This is a Shimano 11 speed 105 group 5800 with a Shimano 105 SS (short cage derailleur).
Chain length is same for 11-28 and 11-32 cassettes-no change there.
The "B" screw adjustment is critical to optimum shifting performance.
For some reason, I had to readjust my limiting screws slightly also, but not sure why that changed.
I'm also attaching pics to show that the chain length for both cassettes is fine and that it works.
Please ignore the background junk and especially that rusty kickstand mount.
Small to Small gears 36T front-11T rear
36T-11T small to small
52T front-32T rear Large to Large
Large to Large 52T-11T
Info as follows: 2016 Fuji 2.0 Alloy frame/carbon fork It was Fuji's inexpensive race bike at the time.
This is a Shimano 11 speed 105 group 5800 with a Shimano 105 SS (short cage derailleur).
Chain length is same for 11-28 and 11-32 cassettes-no change there.
The "B" screw adjustment is critical to optimum shifting performance.
For some reason, I had to readjust my limiting screws slightly also, but not sure why that changed.
I'm also attaching pics to show that the chain length for both cassettes is fine and that it works.
Please ignore the background junk and especially that rusty kickstand mount.
#2
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I'm impressed. Mostly that you provided the pictures that pretty much fully back up your narrative and show that there isn't a slack chain hanging when in the small/small.
What's the distance between the center of the axle and the center of the mounting bolt for the RD? My son's bike with a 105 and a RD-5800-GS has the spacing between about 1.15 inches or about 29.3 mm measured with digital calipers.
I'm just wondering if your bike has more distance between. Which might explain why it works for you and may not work for others. Of course then it might be that some bikes come with even less spacing than we have from the axle to the RD mount.
That's why I feel Shimano is so conservative with their numbers. Because they are trying to account for the one person with the oddball bike that it wouldn't work on.
What's the distance between the center of the axle and the center of the mounting bolt for the RD? My son's bike with a 105 and a RD-5800-GS has the spacing between about 1.15 inches or about 29.3 mm measured with digital calipers.
I'm just wondering if your bike has more distance between. Which might explain why it works for you and may not work for others. Of course then it might be that some bikes come with even less spacing than we have from the axle to the RD mount.
That's why I feel Shimano is so conservative with their numbers. Because they are trying to account for the one person with the oddball bike that it wouldn't work on.
Last edited by Iride01; 05-05-24 at 09:41 AM.
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#3
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Shimano is conservative in their specs because mechanic skill becomes more important at the fringes. So it's not a question of working or not working, but managing the grey zone.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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#4
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But it has been seen in other threads that many others have gotten away with the same. So maybe a lot of the other people buying Wolf tooth hangers for just that move to a 32 max low sprocket are just wasting their money. At least if they didn't try without first.
#5
What does it look like when you are in the 32x36 combo? That's usually the problem - the pulley is up against the 32 sprocket.
#6
Just Pedaling
Thread Starter
The photo shows a relayltively short hanger typical of road bikes, so I doubt that's a factor.
Shimano is conservative in their specs because mechanic skill becomes more important at the fringes. So it's not a question of working or not working, but managing the grey zone.
Shimano is conservative in their specs because mechanic skill becomes more important at the fringes. So it's not a question of working or not working, but managing the grey zone.
#7
Just Pedaling
Thread Starter
I'm impressed. Mostly that you provided the pictures that pretty much fully back up your narrative and show that there isn't a slack chain hanging when in the small/small.
What's the distance between the center of the axle and the center of the mounting bolt for the RD? My son's bike with a 105 and a RD-5800-GS has the spacing between about 1.15 inches or about 29.3 mm measured with digital calipers.
I'm just wondering if your bike has more distance between. Which might explain why it works for you and may not work for others. Of course then it might be that some bikes come with even less spacing than we have from the axle to the RD mount.
That's why I feel Shimano is so conservative with their numbers. Because they are trying to account for the one person with the oddball bike that it wouldn't work on.
What's the distance between the center of the axle and the center of the mounting bolt for the RD? My son's bike with a 105 and a RD-5800-GS has the spacing between about 1.15 inches or about 29.3 mm measured with digital calipers.
I'm just wondering if your bike has more distance between. Which might explain why it works for you and may not work for others. Of course then it might be that some bikes come with even less spacing than we have from the axle to the RD mount.
That's why I feel Shimano is so conservative with their numbers. Because they are trying to account for the one person with the oddball bike that it wouldn't work on.
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Wow, it looks like you are right at the limit of how much you can push the drivetrain before it doesn't work anymore...or works poorly.
Likely the shifting problem you are noticing is due to the amount of force on the rear derailleur based on the gear you are in and the load on the return spring in the rear derailleur.
Based on the picture of the little/little...36/32...adding a link to the chain may be a bit too long and a too loose chain...though in reality how often does anyone use this gear combo so the likely hood of a problem is close to zero.
Based on the picture of the big/big and the position of the pulley cage whilst in this gear combo I'd want to add another link or two and see how it affects the shifting quality. I'd bet it would be a lot better because you'd be reducing the load on that return spring.
You are likely at the limits...hehehe...of the limit screw as well but I've used longer limit screws in the past and they generally work...but sometimes it is a bit of a compromise and you have to think about the direction of compromise. Again how often are you in the big/big??? Depending on what's going on it may happen more often than one thinks. I don't hesitate to cross gear if I'm in a race or racing with friends and it is faster to shift into a cross gear than to fiddle with shifting the chain rings then the rear gears to achieve the proper gear. I don't give it a thought and cross gear away until I'm able to shift into a more efficient and less wearing gear ratio.
Experiment, compromise based on your riding needs and do what seems best...you can always change it back if you don't like it.
Likely the shifting problem you are noticing is due to the amount of force on the rear derailleur based on the gear you are in and the load on the return spring in the rear derailleur.
Based on the picture of the little/little...36/32...adding a link to the chain may be a bit too long and a too loose chain...though in reality how often does anyone use this gear combo so the likely hood of a problem is close to zero.
Based on the picture of the big/big and the position of the pulley cage whilst in this gear combo I'd want to add another link or two and see how it affects the shifting quality. I'd bet it would be a lot better because you'd be reducing the load on that return spring.
You are likely at the limits...hehehe...of the limit screw as well but I've used longer limit screws in the past and they generally work...but sometimes it is a bit of a compromise and you have to think about the direction of compromise. Again how often are you in the big/big??? Depending on what's going on it may happen more often than one thinks. I don't hesitate to cross gear if I'm in a race or racing with friends and it is faster to shift into a cross gear than to fiddle with shifting the chain rings then the rear gears to achieve the proper gear. I don't give it a thought and cross gear away until I'm able to shift into a more efficient and less wearing gear ratio.
Experiment, compromise based on your riding needs and do what seems best...you can always change it back if you don't like it.
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Good stuff. I was able to get 32t big cog on a Shimano short cage before as well.
The total chain wrap part was aided by the fact that I ran 46/34 up front. Not sure if I could have gone 50/34.
The total chain wrap part was aided by the fact that I ran 46/34 up front. Not sure if I could have gone 50/34.
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#11
Just Pedaling
Thread Starter
36T front-32T rear
Last edited by SpedFast; 05-05-24 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Forgot to add pic
#12
Just Pedaling
Thread Starter
Wow, it looks like you are right at the limit of how much you can push the drivetrain before it doesn't work anymore...or works poorly.
Likely the shifting problem you are noticing is due to the amount of force on the rear derailleur based on the gear you are in and the load on the return spring in the rear derailleur.
Based on the picture of the little/little...36/32...adding a link to the chain may be a bit too long and a too loose chain...though in reality how often does anyone use this gear combo so the likely hood of a problem is close to zero.
Based on the picture of the big/big and the position of the pulley cage whilst in this gear combo I'd want to add another link or two and see how it affects the shifting quality. I'd bet it would be a lot better because you'd be reducing the load on that return spring.
You are likely at the limits...hehehe...of the limit screw as well but I've used longer limit screws in the past and they generally work...but sometimes it is a bit of a compromise and you have to think about the direction of compromise. Again how often are you in the big/big??? Depending on what's going on it may happen more often than one thinks. I don't hesitate to cross gear if I'm in a race or racing with friends and it is faster to shift into a cross gear than to fiddle with shifting the chain rings then the rear gears to achieve the proper gear. I don't give it a thought and cross gear away until I'm able to shift into a more efficient and less wearing gear ratio.
Experiment, compromise based on your riding needs and do what seems best...you can always change it back if you don't like it.
Likely the shifting problem you are noticing is due to the amount of force on the rear derailleur based on the gear you are in and the load on the return spring in the rear derailleur.
Based on the picture of the little/little...36/32...adding a link to the chain may be a bit too long and a too loose chain...though in reality how often does anyone use this gear combo so the likely hood of a problem is close to zero.
Based on the picture of the big/big and the position of the pulley cage whilst in this gear combo I'd want to add another link or two and see how it affects the shifting quality. I'd bet it would be a lot better because you'd be reducing the load on that return spring.
You are likely at the limits...hehehe...of the limit screw as well but I've used longer limit screws in the past and they generally work...but sometimes it is a bit of a compromise and you have to think about the direction of compromise. Again how often are you in the big/big??? Depending on what's going on it may happen more often than one thinks. I don't hesitate to cross gear if I'm in a race or racing with friends and it is faster to shift into a cross gear than to fiddle with shifting the chain rings then the rear gears to achieve the proper gear. I don't give it a thought and cross gear away until I'm able to shift into a more efficient and less wearing gear ratio.
Experiment, compromise based on your riding needs and do what seems best...you can always change it back if you don't like it.
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#13
Just Pedaling
Thread Starter
There's an individual on Utube that claims a 50-34 actually works better than my 52-36 but a 53-39 won't work without a longer cage, just in case you're thinking about that upgrade in the future.
#14
Just Pedaling
Thread Starter
I'm impressed. Mostly that you provided the pictures that pretty much fully back up your narrative and show that there isn't a slack chain hanging when in the small/small.
What's the distance between the center of the axle and the center of the mounting bolt for the RD? My son's bike with a 105 and a RD-5800-GS has the spacing between about 1.15 inches or about 29.3 mm measured with digital calipers.
I'm just wondering if your bike has more distance between. Which might explain why it works for you and may not work for others. Of course then it might be that some bikes come with even less spacing than we have from the axle to the RD mount.
That's why I feel Shimano is so conservative with their numbers. Because they are trying to account for the one person with the oddball bike that it wouldn't work on.
What's the distance between the center of the axle and the center of the mounting bolt for the RD? My son's bike with a 105 and a RD-5800-GS has the spacing between about 1.15 inches or about 29.3 mm measured with digital calipers.
I'm just wondering if your bike has more distance between. Which might explain why it works for you and may not work for others. Of course then it might be that some bikes come with even less spacing than we have from the axle to the RD mount.
That's why I feel Shimano is so conservative with their numbers. Because they are trying to account for the one person with the oddball bike that it wouldn't work on.
#15
Glad your set up worked!
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#18
Just Pedaling
Thread Starter
Update: I've put almost 300 miles on the new 32T cassette and everything is working fine. I take the hills slower now, but so much easier than that 28T and I didn't have to give up any of my higher gearing by going to smaller front chainrings. I know I would miss my 52-11 overdrive.