MTB brands to avoid/prefer ?
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
MTB brands to avoid/prefer ?
Hi guys
I’m looking forward to buy a new 29″ XC hardtail bike. After some research I made a list with about 30 bikes that are in my price range, and have more or less the same equipment (SLX/XT/Sram NX with RockShox Air forks)
These are the brands my choices come from. Are there any I should particularly avoid/prefer ? Maybe regarding build quality/ frame resistance ?
I’m looking forward to buy a new 29″ XC hardtail bike. After some research I made a list with about 30 bikes that are in my price range, and have more or less the same equipment (SLX/XT/Sram NX with RockShox Air forks)
These are the brands my choices come from. Are there any I should particularly avoid/prefer ? Maybe regarding build quality/ frame resistance ?
- Orbea
- Mondraker
- Ghost
- Focus
- Cannondale
- Scott
- Cube
- Canyon
#3
Senior Member
There's a 95% chance all of the frames on your list are manufactured in Taiwan, with the possible exception of Orbea (aluminum frames made in Spain, carbon ones in China), and Mondraker (don't know much about the brand, seen only their DH bikes). It is even likely all of the frames come from no more than a handful factories. Some of the brands (in particular the European ones) assemble the bikes in their home country and sometimes also paint the frames.
So yeah, as the previous poster said, it doesn't matter much. Get whichever fits you best, looks best to your eye, and has the best service in your area.
So yeah, as the previous poster said, it doesn't matter much. Get whichever fits you best, looks best to your eye, and has the best service in your area.
#4
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,213
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2763 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
Hi guys
I’m looking forward to buy a new 29″ XC hardtail bike. After some research I made a list with about 30 bikes that are in my price range, and have more or less the same equipment (SLX/XT/Sram NX with RockShox Air forks)
These are the brands my choices come from. Are there any I should particularly avoid/prefer ? Maybe regarding build quality/ frame resistance ?
I’m looking forward to buy a new 29″ XC hardtail bike. After some research I made a list with about 30 bikes that are in my price range, and have more or less the same equipment (SLX/XT/Sram NX with RockShox Air forks)
These are the brands my choices come from. Are there any I should particularly avoid/prefer ? Maybe regarding build quality/ frame resistance ?
- Orbea
- Mondraker
- Ghost
- Focus
- Cannondale
- Scott
- Cube
- Canyon
#6
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,648
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10999 Post(s)
Liked 7,527 Times
in
4,211 Posts
Yeah- geometry of each frame and the components within your price range are way more important than brand once you start considering bike shop quality bikes.
The geometry will vary widely, especially chainstay length and head tube angle. Since head tube angle will vary widely, so will the effective top tube length.
Find something with the stack and reach you like which has the best components(fork, drivetrain, and brakes) within your price range.
The geometry will vary widely, especially chainstay length and head tube angle. Since head tube angle will vary widely, so will the effective top tube length.
Find something with the stack and reach you like which has the best components(fork, drivetrain, and brakes) within your price range.
#7
Zip tie Karen
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,004
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1465 Post(s)
Liked 1,542 Times
in
806 Posts
Five things:
1) Not sure why you would ask in this subforum as opposed to the Mountain Bike subforum. Riders here may or may not ride XC mountain bikes off road. I do, though.
2) You didn't give a budget. That number will drive much of the discussion and will be a decision point on whether to buy from a bike shop, buy from a drop shipper and modify, or simply build yourself.
3) You mention XC, but don't say whether you'll prefer a full suspension or can go with a hardtail. This is another major "fork in the road" of identifying your bike.
4) Ignore brands for the most part, unless you expect to walk into a show room and buy a bike as stocked by the manufacturer. As one poster said above, most manufacturing has moved off shore and the differences in frames are almost negligible unless you're at the top end of the price spectrum.
5) Brands don't matter. Components do matter. Especially suspension forks and shocks. Do your homework and expect to spend $400+ for a decent entry level fork. Air suspension with beefy stancheons, the right throw, adjustability on the fly...all of the features. Put your money there. Also, good hydraulic brakes properly set up.
Good luck.
1) Not sure why you would ask in this subforum as opposed to the Mountain Bike subforum. Riders here may or may not ride XC mountain bikes off road. I do, though.
2) You didn't give a budget. That number will drive much of the discussion and will be a decision point on whether to buy from a bike shop, buy from a drop shipper and modify, or simply build yourself.
3) You mention XC, but don't say whether you'll prefer a full suspension or can go with a hardtail. This is another major "fork in the road" of identifying your bike.
4) Ignore brands for the most part, unless you expect to walk into a show room and buy a bike as stocked by the manufacturer. As one poster said above, most manufacturing has moved off shore and the differences in frames are almost negligible unless you're at the top end of the price spectrum.
5) Brands don't matter. Components do matter. Especially suspension forks and shocks. Do your homework and expect to spend $400+ for a decent entry level fork. Air suspension with beefy stancheons, the right throw, adjustability on the fly...all of the features. Put your money there. Also, good hydraulic brakes properly set up.
Good luck.
#8
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,213
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2763 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
Five things:
1) Not sure why you would ask in this subforum as opposed to the Mountain Bike subforum. Riders here may or may not ride XC mountain bikes off road. I do, though.
2) You didn't give a budget. That number will drive much of the discussion and will be a decision point on whether to buy from a bike shop, buy from a drop shipper and modify, or simply build yourself.
3) You mention XC, but don't say whether you'll prefer a full suspension or can go with a hardtail. This is another major "fork in the road" of identifying your bike.
4) Ignore brands for the most part, unless you expect to walk into a show room and buy a bike as stocked by the manufacturer. As one poster said above, most manufacturing has moved off shore and the differences in frames are almost negligible unless you're at the top end of the price spectrum.
5) Brands don't matter. Components do matter. Especially suspension forks and shocks. Do your homework and expect to spend $400+ for a decent entry level fork. Air suspension with beefy stancheons, the right throw, adjustability on the fly...all of the features. Put your money there. Also, good hydraulic brakes properly set up.
Good luck.
1) Not sure why you would ask in this subforum as opposed to the Mountain Bike subforum. Riders here may or may not ride XC mountain bikes off road. I do, though.
2) You didn't give a budget. That number will drive much of the discussion and will be a decision point on whether to buy from a bike shop, buy from a drop shipper and modify, or simply build yourself.
3) You mention XC, but don't say whether you'll prefer a full suspension or can go with a hardtail. This is another major "fork in the road" of identifying your bike.
4) Ignore brands for the most part, unless you expect to walk into a show room and buy a bike as stocked by the manufacturer. As one poster said above, most manufacturing has moved off shore and the differences in frames are almost negligible unless you're at the top end of the price spectrum.
5) Brands don't matter. Components do matter. Especially suspension forks and shocks. Do your homework and expect to spend $400+ for a decent entry level fork. Air suspension with beefy stancheons, the right throw, adjustability on the fly...all of the features. Put your money there. Also, good hydraulic brakes properly set up.
Good luck.
Except he did say he wanted a hardtail.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
Always shop for a bike shop first. If you should have a warranty issue, which shop would you feel most comfortable to have working for you?
Once you pick out the right shop, select a brand and style of bike they carry and at a price point you are comfortable with. Do it that way and you'll never go wrong.
Once you pick out the right shop, select a brand and style of bike they carry and at a price point you are comfortable with. Do it that way and you'll never go wrong.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#10
Banned
Just Go to a Proper Bike Shop, Pick the shop then get a bike there ..
(NOT Walmart Costco and other big box stores, with No Service After the sale
...other than returning it and getting your money back)
Yup, Taiwan contract OEM quality manufacturing = Many Brands, From Few Factories .
(NOT Walmart Costco and other big box stores, with No Service After the sale
...other than returning it and getting your money back)
Yup, Taiwan contract OEM quality manufacturing = Many Brands, From Few Factories .
#12
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,648
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10999 Post(s)
Liked 7,527 Times
in
4,211 Posts
Always shop for a bike shop first. If you should have a warranty issue, which shop would you feel most comfortable to have working for you?
Once you pick out the right shop, select a brand and style of bike they carry and at a price point you are comfortable with. Do it that way and you'll never go wrong.
Once you pick out the right shop, select a brand and style of bike they carry and at a price point you are comfortable with. Do it that way and you'll never go wrong.
- The odds of a warranty claim are incredibly small. Selecting a bike because you think the shop that sells it will help you on a warranty claim is fear shopping and totally irrational.
- I suggest to everyone that asks to get the bike that fits them best and has the nicest components for the price they can afford. Who sells it is almost immaterial. My wife's road bike was purchased from a shop I dont like because it fit her best and the components/price were comparable.
- If my favorite shop sells Trek and Giant, but a Specialized bike fits best in the price range I want- why would I buy a Trek or Giant?
Buy based on the bike. Then if you need a shop, go look for one you like.
#13
Newbie
Thread Starter
I'll most likely buy the bike from an online store, due to availability but also better prices.
The bikes on my list have more or less the same geometry. 500-540mm seat tube (I'm 1.92m tall). Head angle is between 69 and 71°. Chainstay length ranging from 430 to 450mm
I didn't give a budget because the thread is about bike brands in general. I already got my options written on a list and am now looking to eliminate a bunch.
As per the shops I can get my bikes from: there is only one LBS, then two more from my country(Romania), and the other from Germany. I'm constantly buying parts and tools from Germany stores, because of better prices. But I understand warranty would be much of a headache with these shops.
The bikes on my list have more or less the same geometry. 500-540mm seat tube (I'm 1.92m tall). Head angle is between 69 and 71°. Chainstay length ranging from 430 to 450mm
I didn't give a budget because the thread is about bike brands in general. I already got my options written on a list and am now looking to eliminate a bunch.
As per the shops I can get my bikes from: there is only one LBS, then two more from my country(Romania), and the other from Germany. I'm constantly buying parts and tools from Germany stores, because of better prices. But I understand warranty would be much of a headache with these shops.
#14
Zip tie Karen
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,004
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1465 Post(s)
Liked 1,542 Times
in
806 Posts
What fork have you chosen? 29er or 27.5"?
#15
Banned.
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 217
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 92 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
4 Posts
Geometry matters. I think Kona bikes have a unique approach that really works well for me. The handling seems really dialed and is immediately comfortable, with no “getting used to it” period.
#16
Newbie
Thread Starter
Well 29", I mentioned in my first post.
I also found some Konas with nice geometry, but they are either not in my price range or don't have enough gear ratio. Same case for similar geometry Orbea Laufey.
I also found some Konas with nice geometry, but they are either not in my price range or don't have enough gear ratio. Same case for similar geometry Orbea Laufey.
#17
Banned
you, with dealer's help, can change component parts at point of sale,
in a proper bike shop, to be what you prefer, regardless of brand.
they're not cling wrapped until you get it home.
in a proper bike shop, to be what you prefer, regardless of brand.
they're not cling wrapped until you get it home.
#18
Shimano Certified
I would, as some have said get one from a shop. The out-of-the-box condtition of the product can vary widely and I have seen as many as 2 hrs of labor getting a mid-high end bike working properly from the factory warehouse box. At least if you buy it already together from a reputable shop they give you a warranty and a complementary re-adjustment(in my shop is 60days). Kinda surprised Giant isn't on your list. Some of thier products have a better bang for the buck and thier support has been good through the years(as is Trek's).
#19
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,213
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2763 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
If you know what you want and can wrench your own bikes, there is no reason not to go the direct order route like Canyon if you are so inclined.
i have never once bought a complete bike froma shop (though I do oftem buy parts and use them for services like head tube facing and wheel builds). Zero regrets.
i have never once bought a complete bike froma shop (though I do oftem buy parts and use them for services like head tube facing and wheel builds). Zero regrets.
#20
Newbie
Thread Starter
I would, as some have said get one from a shop. The out-of-the-box condtition of the product can vary widely and I have seen as many as 2 hrs of labor getting a mid-high end bike working properly from the factory warehouse box. At least if you buy it already together from a reputable shop they give you a warranty and a complementary re-adjustment(in my shop is 60days). Kinda surprised Giant isn't on your list. Some of thier products have a better bang for the buck and thier support has been good through the years(as is Trek's).
#21
Banned.
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Avoid at all costs any mtb I own, I can't afford a real mtb. Here is a bike like mine
when I was 8. It fell apart on only a 5 mile ride.
when I was 8. It fell apart on only a 5 mile ride.
Last edited by Off piste pista; 10-27-18 at 02:34 PM.
#22
Newbie
Thread Starter
^ That bike just gave my cancer.
Regarding my options, hopefully better ones, I think I've narrowed it down to 3 bikes:There are some geometry differences:
Apart from the differences in the drivetain,the Cannondale has a Judy Gold fork, the Cube Reaction Race a Judy Silver, and the Race One a Recon Silver. I'm not sure how much better the Judy Gold is, since it seems it has the TK damper, like the other two.
What about Judy Silver vs Recon Silver ?
Regarding my options, hopefully better ones, I think I've narrowed it down to 3 bikes:There are some geometry differences:
Apart from the differences in the drivetain,the Cannondale has a Judy Gold fork, the Cube Reaction Race a Judy Silver, and the Race One a Recon Silver. I'm not sure how much better the Judy Gold is, since it seems it has the TK damper, like the other two.
What about Judy Silver vs Recon Silver ?
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Bay Area CA
Posts: 66
Bikes: 2011 Rivendell Sam Hillborne, 2016 Brompton M6R, 2017 Ritchey Timberwolf
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Personally, in hardtails, I prefer the ride of steel over aluminum. Have you looked at bikes by Niner (Sir9) and Jamis (Dragonslayer)? I was considering the 27.5 versions of those when I bought a Ritchey Timberwolf. Both had solid reviews. Couldn’t find anywhere to try them though.
John
John
#25
nothing to see here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Antioch, CA
Posts: 564
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 218 Post(s)
Liked 145 Times
in
78 Posts
The cube reaction race seems to be the better of the 3 in terms of having the current standards. 1x12 drivetrain, thru axles, boost spacing (on the front at least, you may want to verify what the rear has before buying), and decent brakes.
The other cube has QR axles, and the cannondale says it has a custom rear axle QR spacing. Upgraded wheel sets may be difficult to find or very limited in selection for those. I ran into this problem recently, wound up buying a custom built set which worked out ok but wasn't cheap. Just something to consider.
The other cube has QR axles, and the cannondale says it has a custom rear axle QR spacing. Upgraded wheel sets may be difficult to find or very limited in selection for those. I ran into this problem recently, wound up buying a custom built set which worked out ok but wasn't cheap. Just something to consider.