80's Schwinn Mountain Bike
02-26-20, 06:54 PM
#26
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https://cnj.craigslist.org/bik/d/spo...072265387.html
Mongoose Switcback moutain road bike - $30
image 2 of 3
Last edited by curbtender; 02-26-20 at 06:58 PM.
02-26-20, 07:06 PM
#27
Senior Member
02-26-20, 08:39 PM
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The Mongoose is a late 90's Kmart type bike, (Is that crank spider broken?), the Schwinn Frontier is a late 90's model made after they went bankrupt, I'm not sure what they were as I've never had my hands on one in person. The Miyata looks like a nice bike but its 2+ hours away and likely too light weight for my size. At almost 350+ lbs the old road bike wheels likely wouldn't be a good choice here on mostly dirt, or oil and stone paved roads.
For what it would cost to drive to new hope pa it would be cheaper to buy something closer for more money. The Frontier would likely need new tires, something less aggressive, and better suited for my weight. Maybe even a better set of wheels as it likely has single wall stamped alloy rims with cheap plain steel spokes. I've got a set of wheels off a Walmart bike in the garage from a bike I picked up at a yard sale last year, the spokes started to dimple the rims and pull through after less than a week. I scrapped the bike figuring I'd make a yard cart from the wheels. It was similar to the Frontier but newer with different brakes and a shock front fork.
The Trek is gone, (or at least the ad is gone now), but it had a number on the seat post. The bike was dark green with white or yellow 'spatter' throughout the paint. The wheels were aluminum with 700Cx(40?) tires. (About the width of an older middle weight bike). It had thumb shifters like the Schwinn Mesa Runner did. The bars, stem, seat post and cranks were alloy. It had cantilever brakes It was a very tall frame, I didn't measure it but it was noticeably taller than the Schwinn Mesa Runner. I looked online but didn't see one like it looking through 80's and 90's catalogs. One thing that stood out was the Biopace chainrings which made me think it was likely late 80's vintage. The frame had a tubing decal but nothing I recognized, just some OEM tubing sticker I didn't look close enough to pay attention to whether or not it was chromoly or some sort of plain steel. Quite frankly, that don't matter much to me. I'm not racing, and at my size, a few pounds here and there on the bike won't matter much.
If the Frontier was closer maybe I'd grab it and try to upgrade it but its still likely close to an hour away and its a small frame. I also remember seeing the model name in Walmart too but that bike is likely too old to be a Walmart sold bike. I don't think they popped up in Walmart till around 2001 or 2002.
I do agree, a cheap Frontier in the right size would be a good start but only if its super cheap. Also, buying an unknown like that means it will have to be completely gone through. That Schwinn Mesa Runner didn't need all that.
Out of curiosity, I called around to few bicycle shops to see what they would charge to do a complete tear down and relube of a bike, most said they don't do that sort of thing anymore, "Its not worth it, it would be cheaper to buy a new bike". One said they'd rather not be bothered but if I bought all the parts from them they would do it for $200 plus parts so long as it didn't require any 'wheel work'.
Two told me they don't do wheels, one told me that "Any older bike is likely not safe and should be replaced".
I stopped in a bike shop in PA a few weeks ago, I happened to be right next door so I walked in and took a look. When I asked about used bikes he told me to go to a flea market, they don't do used bikes, I then asked what kind bike he recommended and he told me I was too big for any bike that would hold me. He told me that the only bike he would sell me was a beach cruiser and I likely was far too tall to ride a 17 or 19" frame cruiser.
He all but flat out told me he'd rather not sell me a bike in a round about way.
I'm a big guy, but not so much just fat, I'm big overall. I measure 6ft 3in tall, have a 36" inseam, a 44" waist and wear size 16 boots. Most of my excess weight is gut weight.
On an upright bike, my knees get in the way of steering, on all bikes I have issues with my knees hitting my chest on the up stroke of the pedals and I have problems finding a bike that gives me enough leg extension to pedal comfortably. I had a 69cm frame road bike back in the day, it gave me great leg extension but the dt shifters were out of reach and the stand over height was borderline. I had converted the bike to flat bars and stem shifters so I could ride it. It lasted about a season before the rear seat stays cracked away from the seat tube and one dropout was working its way loose in the frame. I wasn't anywhere close to my current weight then, maybe about 250 lbs tops. I wouldn't even think about riding on 27x1" tires now.
At my age, I likely will never get back to my 20 something weight or size but I do need to do something for exercise. I'm far less active these days than i was even 10 years ago, partly due to my age, partly due to being retired.
For what it would cost to drive to new hope pa it would be cheaper to buy something closer for more money. The Frontier would likely need new tires, something less aggressive, and better suited for my weight. Maybe even a better set of wheels as it likely has single wall stamped alloy rims with cheap plain steel spokes. I've got a set of wheels off a Walmart bike in the garage from a bike I picked up at a yard sale last year, the spokes started to dimple the rims and pull through after less than a week. I scrapped the bike figuring I'd make a yard cart from the wheels. It was similar to the Frontier but newer with different brakes and a shock front fork.
The Trek is gone, (or at least the ad is gone now), but it had a number on the seat post. The bike was dark green with white or yellow 'spatter' throughout the paint. The wheels were aluminum with 700Cx(40?) tires. (About the width of an older middle weight bike). It had thumb shifters like the Schwinn Mesa Runner did. The bars, stem, seat post and cranks were alloy. It had cantilever brakes It was a very tall frame, I didn't measure it but it was noticeably taller than the Schwinn Mesa Runner. I looked online but didn't see one like it looking through 80's and 90's catalogs. One thing that stood out was the Biopace chainrings which made me think it was likely late 80's vintage. The frame had a tubing decal but nothing I recognized, just some OEM tubing sticker I didn't look close enough to pay attention to whether or not it was chromoly or some sort of plain steel. Quite frankly, that don't matter much to me. I'm not racing, and at my size, a few pounds here and there on the bike won't matter much.
If the Frontier was closer maybe I'd grab it and try to upgrade it but its still likely close to an hour away and its a small frame. I also remember seeing the model name in Walmart too but that bike is likely too old to be a Walmart sold bike. I don't think they popped up in Walmart till around 2001 or 2002.
I do agree, a cheap Frontier in the right size would be a good start but only if its super cheap. Also, buying an unknown like that means it will have to be completely gone through. That Schwinn Mesa Runner didn't need all that.
Out of curiosity, I called around to few bicycle shops to see what they would charge to do a complete tear down and relube of a bike, most said they don't do that sort of thing anymore, "Its not worth it, it would be cheaper to buy a new bike". One said they'd rather not be bothered but if I bought all the parts from them they would do it for $200 plus parts so long as it didn't require any 'wheel work'.
Two told me they don't do wheels, one told me that "Any older bike is likely not safe and should be replaced".
I stopped in a bike shop in PA a few weeks ago, I happened to be right next door so I walked in and took a look. When I asked about used bikes he told me to go to a flea market, they don't do used bikes, I then asked what kind bike he recommended and he told me I was too big for any bike that would hold me. He told me that the only bike he would sell me was a beach cruiser and I likely was far too tall to ride a 17 or 19" frame cruiser.
He all but flat out told me he'd rather not sell me a bike in a round about way.
I'm a big guy, but not so much just fat, I'm big overall. I measure 6ft 3in tall, have a 36" inseam, a 44" waist and wear size 16 boots. Most of my excess weight is gut weight.
On an upright bike, my knees get in the way of steering, on all bikes I have issues with my knees hitting my chest on the up stroke of the pedals and I have problems finding a bike that gives me enough leg extension to pedal comfortably. I had a 69cm frame road bike back in the day, it gave me great leg extension but the dt shifters were out of reach and the stand over height was borderline. I had converted the bike to flat bars and stem shifters so I could ride it. It lasted about a season before the rear seat stays cracked away from the seat tube and one dropout was working its way loose in the frame. I wasn't anywhere close to my current weight then, maybe about 250 lbs tops. I wouldn't even think about riding on 27x1" tires now.
At my age, I likely will never get back to my 20 something weight or size but I do need to do something for exercise. I'm far less active these days than i was even 10 years ago, partly due to my age, partly due to being retired.
02-26-20, 10:56 PM
#29
Senior Member
Edit: I'd suggest making a thread in Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) subforum asking for help finding a used bike. Keep it simple with your height, weight, location and budget with no text walls. Maybe also ask if anyone is riding a Miyata 1000.
Last edited by katsup; 02-26-20 at 11:08 PM.
02-26-20, 11:26 PM
#30
Senior Member
Another Option
GT Outpost - $150 = Worth about $80-$100 in my market.
I'd still vote for the Miyata 1000 as it's a that nice of bike.
GT Outpost - $150 = Worth about $80-$100 in my market.
I'd still vote for the Miyata 1000 as it's a that nice of bike.
02-27-20, 04:03 AM
#31
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Mongoose sold out in the mid 80's, after that they became part of a bike parts distribution company, I think Service Cycle was who bought them. After that I think they were all just rebadged bikes built by various different sources.
There were a few nice looking road bikes but that run was pretty short. I remember seeing them in Toys R Us in the very early 90's, maybe earlier but I didn't live near one back then. I almost bought one but thought better of it back then.
When I look at that Mongoose in the ad, I see a bike with a broken right crank arm or a broken plastic cover on a cheap steel crankset, a rusty freewheel and chain, and cheap plastic Altus detent type shifters, likely the one's with the black plastic covers and little windows that show what gear you in. I'd put the year between 1994 and 1998, The color says its newer, the components I'm seeing says its closer to 1994.
Back in 1988 I bought a brand new Schwinn High Sierra, the same dealer back then sold Mongoose and I was told by the dealer that sold them that they had fallen from grace after the original owner sold the company a few years prior. The dealer had a few there but said he wasn't going to stock them any longer due to quality issues. The model I had looked at was a good bit more money than the Schwinn. It was a deal where the company I worked for would buy you a new bike if you would ride in their annual charity ride. They gave us an $800 limit. The Mongoose was at that limit, the Schwinn was around $425. I had looked at a Cimmaron too but they either couldn't get me one in my size or it exceeded the amount I had to spend. I also wasn't fond of the rusty burnt brown color. It wasn't too many years later I started seeing Mongoose in toy stores and department stores.
It makes little difference either way, that bike is way too far away. Its roughly 130 miles from me. Too far to go for a bike with fuel being what is is these days. I'd have to add in a tank of fuel in my truck to the cost of the bike, not counting my time and any thing it happens to need. I see right off the bat that it needs better tires for street use, and a decent saddle to handle a guy my size. Plus, fix the cranks, replace the rusty chain, freewheel, and broken spoke protector. Its also likely a pretty heavy bike, with steel bars, stem, and hubs. I also can't help notice the stamped steel rear dropouts and steel derailleur hanger, complete with steel rear derailleur. That's not a sign of a quality frame in the 90's. At least not one worth making a long drive for.
The tubing decal only says main triangle chromoly, by that time, chromoly was pretty common on the lower end bikes. Even gas pipe frames by that time had some sort of 'Special Tubing' decal. I remember way back when I worked in a shop as a teen, one of the sale reps we dealt with made the comment that even though they advertised chromoly tubing on a particular model, the larger models rarely had the best tubing due to the length of of the tubes. At the very best the 'chromoly' used was straight gauge and only two or three tubes at best.
I learned the hard way riding an older Nishiki International road bike that did apparently have very light seat stay tubes. I buckled three rear seat stay tubes before giving up on light bikes. The tubing would accordion under my weight on rough roads. I still have one of those frames hanging in my garage, the both rear seat stays are 'compressed' about 1/8" leaving a bubble in the tubing just below the brake bridge on each side. I was far from the size I am now when that happened. I was pretty much in the best shape I had ever been in back then.
The Miyata is a narrow tire bike, and way too far from here at roughly 120 miles each way plus bridge toll and turnpike tolls. I also doubt the seller would drop the price to anywhere close to where I think it should be.
The most likely brand to find around here is Nishiki in that era of bike, with Schwinn and Raleigh being a close second and third. There's a really clean but smaller frame Nishiki Sport set up as a touring bike for sale locally, its a 70's model with a lug frame, fenders, racks and a straight bar conversion for $250, but the roads here aren't good with road bike wheels. Too many dirt trails, oil and stone paved roads, sea shell paved roads, and pot holes. The better roads aren't save to ride on unless your life insurance is well paid and you feeling lucky.
I like the GT but its way too far away. A good three hour ride each way from down here in south Jersey. A buddy has a Timberline but its newer, with front suspension and a suspension seat post. The thing rides ok but its heavy and hard to pedal any distance. I went through all the bearings myself, most of which on that are sealed cartridge bearings.
Not sure about the Outpost, I think that was the lowest model they sold. Even so if that bike were around here I suppose they'd be asking double that.
One of the sellers on CL who's bike I looked at also had this:
He wants $100 as it sits. No driveline, no seat, no bars or stem, and no brakes. It is a TALL frame though. The tires and wheels look brand new, they appear to be steel rims with black chrome, the hubs are bright chrome.
I suppose its some sort of cruiser, likely a single derailleur bike judging by the chainguard. The tires are Cheng Shin 26x2.125". he said it also has a Pletscher rear rack and kick stand that goes with it.
I was thinking maybe it would be a decent bike with a coaster three speed instead of a derailleur? It would eliminate buying calipers or levers and the brakes wouldn't spoil the fancy black chrome rims.
The bike does have an odd rake, as if it sits high in the front but both wheels are the same size. I do have a gell saddle, a seat post, and set of riser bars and an adjustable stem from a comfort bike I could use. All I'd need is a crankset. The bb has some sort of adapter in it for square taper crank arms. I wasn't looking for a project but its close and cheaper than anything else I looked at. And its spot clean. The BB is sealed, the headset is new and not even tightened down. Going to a coaster brake or three speed would eliminate the dished rear wheel which I feel is a major weak spot for my weight. I did offer him less but he won't budge, he said he'll let it hang in the basement for another 30 years if he don't get his asking price. (Most sellers are the same way around here).
There were a few nice looking road bikes but that run was pretty short. I remember seeing them in Toys R Us in the very early 90's, maybe earlier but I didn't live near one back then. I almost bought one but thought better of it back then.
When I look at that Mongoose in the ad, I see a bike with a broken right crank arm or a broken plastic cover on a cheap steel crankset, a rusty freewheel and chain, and cheap plastic Altus detent type shifters, likely the one's with the black plastic covers and little windows that show what gear you in. I'd put the year between 1994 and 1998, The color says its newer, the components I'm seeing says its closer to 1994.
Back in 1988 I bought a brand new Schwinn High Sierra, the same dealer back then sold Mongoose and I was told by the dealer that sold them that they had fallen from grace after the original owner sold the company a few years prior. The dealer had a few there but said he wasn't going to stock them any longer due to quality issues. The model I had looked at was a good bit more money than the Schwinn. It was a deal where the company I worked for would buy you a new bike if you would ride in their annual charity ride. They gave us an $800 limit. The Mongoose was at that limit, the Schwinn was around $425. I had looked at a Cimmaron too but they either couldn't get me one in my size or it exceeded the amount I had to spend. I also wasn't fond of the rusty burnt brown color. It wasn't too many years later I started seeing Mongoose in toy stores and department stores.
It makes little difference either way, that bike is way too far away. Its roughly 130 miles from me. Too far to go for a bike with fuel being what is is these days. I'd have to add in a tank of fuel in my truck to the cost of the bike, not counting my time and any thing it happens to need. I see right off the bat that it needs better tires for street use, and a decent saddle to handle a guy my size. Plus, fix the cranks, replace the rusty chain, freewheel, and broken spoke protector. Its also likely a pretty heavy bike, with steel bars, stem, and hubs. I also can't help notice the stamped steel rear dropouts and steel derailleur hanger, complete with steel rear derailleur. That's not a sign of a quality frame in the 90's. At least not one worth making a long drive for.
The tubing decal only says main triangle chromoly, by that time, chromoly was pretty common on the lower end bikes. Even gas pipe frames by that time had some sort of 'Special Tubing' decal. I remember way back when I worked in a shop as a teen, one of the sale reps we dealt with made the comment that even though they advertised chromoly tubing on a particular model, the larger models rarely had the best tubing due to the length of of the tubes. At the very best the 'chromoly' used was straight gauge and only two or three tubes at best.
I learned the hard way riding an older Nishiki International road bike that did apparently have very light seat stay tubes. I buckled three rear seat stay tubes before giving up on light bikes. The tubing would accordion under my weight on rough roads. I still have one of those frames hanging in my garage, the both rear seat stays are 'compressed' about 1/8" leaving a bubble in the tubing just below the brake bridge on each side. I was far from the size I am now when that happened. I was pretty much in the best shape I had ever been in back then.
The Miyata is a narrow tire bike, and way too far from here at roughly 120 miles each way plus bridge toll and turnpike tolls. I also doubt the seller would drop the price to anywhere close to where I think it should be.
The most likely brand to find around here is Nishiki in that era of bike, with Schwinn and Raleigh being a close second and third. There's a really clean but smaller frame Nishiki Sport set up as a touring bike for sale locally, its a 70's model with a lug frame, fenders, racks and a straight bar conversion for $250, but the roads here aren't good with road bike wheels. Too many dirt trails, oil and stone paved roads, sea shell paved roads, and pot holes. The better roads aren't save to ride on unless your life insurance is well paid and you feeling lucky.
I like the GT but its way too far away. A good three hour ride each way from down here in south Jersey. A buddy has a Timberline but its newer, with front suspension and a suspension seat post. The thing rides ok but its heavy and hard to pedal any distance. I went through all the bearings myself, most of which on that are sealed cartridge bearings.
Not sure about the Outpost, I think that was the lowest model they sold. Even so if that bike were around here I suppose they'd be asking double that.
One of the sellers on CL who's bike I looked at also had this:
He wants $100 as it sits. No driveline, no seat, no bars or stem, and no brakes. It is a TALL frame though. The tires and wheels look brand new, they appear to be steel rims with black chrome, the hubs are bright chrome.
I suppose its some sort of cruiser, likely a single derailleur bike judging by the chainguard. The tires are Cheng Shin 26x2.125". he said it also has a Pletscher rear rack and kick stand that goes with it.
I was thinking maybe it would be a decent bike with a coaster three speed instead of a derailleur? It would eliminate buying calipers or levers and the brakes wouldn't spoil the fancy black chrome rims.
The bike does have an odd rake, as if it sits high in the front but both wheels are the same size. I do have a gell saddle, a seat post, and set of riser bars and an adjustable stem from a comfort bike I could use. All I'd need is a crankset. The bb has some sort of adapter in it for square taper crank arms. I wasn't looking for a project but its close and cheaper than anything else I looked at. And its spot clean. The BB is sealed, the headset is new and not even tightened down. Going to a coaster brake or three speed would eliminate the dished rear wheel which I feel is a major weak spot for my weight. I did offer him less but he won't budge, he said he'll let it hang in the basement for another 30 years if he don't get his asking price. (Most sellers are the same way around here).
02-27-20, 12:26 PM
#32
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Yeah, I surfed your CL, and it's 
how many Nexts, Magnas, Pacifics, etc. and just lame beach cruisers there are.
BTW, that Mesa Runner is relisted, as of today. Dunno if it's the same guy, or someone low-balled him and is flipping it, or what, but it's up again, at $200. - https://southjersey.craigslist.org/b...077490215.html
how many Nexts, Magnas, Pacifics, etc. and just lame beach cruisers there are.BTW, that Mesa Runner is relisted, as of today. Dunno if it's the same guy, or someone low-balled him and is flipping it, or what, but it's up again, at $200. - https://southjersey.craigslist.org/b...077490215.html
02-27-20, 03:20 PM
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I saw that one but I didn't think it was the same bike, the wheels on the first one were Araya and it had Mountech derailleurs, the one listed now has Weinmann rims, and earlier Alpine Tech derailleurs. The one pic shows both the derailleurs and the date code on the frame, making that bike a 1984 model
I looked at both, the second bike is pretty clean but not as nice as the first one. The same guy has the Nishiki above and another Nishiki Pueblo from the late 80's. I don't think he's a flipper, I think its a matter of him selling off the collection of bikes from a relative who passed away. He mentioned that there are more bikes but he hasn't brought them home to sell yet. It sounded like they either in storage or they were out of state somewhere.
Either way, at $200 its by far the best option so far. (I had offered the first guy $175 for the other Mesa Runner but he wasn't interested, so I doubt he took a low ball price. If its the same bike, someone swapped out the wheels, derailleurs, grips, and shifters.
I am still thinking about the Nishiki, but think the only option would be to convert that rear wheel to a coaster brake hub, maybe a three speed coaster brake?
I also thought about buying a smaller bike for parts and swapping everything over to the larger frame. Chances are no matter what I buy I'll be taking it completely apart for a complete relube.
I looked at both, the second bike is pretty clean but not as nice as the first one. The same guy has the Nishiki above and another Nishiki Pueblo from the late 80's. I don't think he's a flipper, I think its a matter of him selling off the collection of bikes from a relative who passed away. He mentioned that there are more bikes but he hasn't brought them home to sell yet. It sounded like they either in storage or they were out of state somewhere.
Either way, at $200 its by far the best option so far. (I had offered the first guy $175 for the other Mesa Runner but he wasn't interested, so I doubt he took a low ball price. If its the same bike, someone swapped out the wheels, derailleurs, grips, and shifters.
I am still thinking about the Nishiki, but think the only option would be to convert that rear wheel to a coaster brake hub, maybe a three speed coaster brake?
I also thought about buying a smaller bike for parts and swapping everything over to the larger frame. Chances are no matter what I buy I'll be taking it completely apart for a complete relube.
02-27-20, 03:32 PM
#34
Senior Member
I have had a couple of early 90's Mongoose IBOC (1990 and 1991 to be exact) cross my path that were definitely not depart store level bikes.
In my opinion, the Miyata 1000 is at a fair price as it is a coveted model. It is a large size which makes it harder to sell, but that is an advantage for you in negotiations. Personally I think it's the best option so far vs buying a bike that needs work and paying a shop an additional ~$200 for maintenance or over paying for a bike like that Nishiki.
Why not extend your search to eBay? Here are are a couple of bikes that would make sense for you (plus you save on gas). My pick of the 3 would be the 930 (since you don't like the Miyata 1000), if you don't mind doing the work it needs.
Trek 930 - Needs a rigid fork = $139 +$55 Shipping
Trek 850 = $200 + $130 Shipping
Specialized Rockhopper - Needs a rigid fork = $240 + $22 Shipping
I only searched for a few models, their are likely more your size on eBay.
In my opinion, the Miyata 1000 is at a fair price as it is a coveted model. It is a large size which makes it harder to sell, but that is an advantage for you in negotiations. Personally I think it's the best option so far vs buying a bike that needs work and paying a shop an additional ~$200 for maintenance or over paying for a bike like that Nishiki.
Why not extend your search to eBay? Here are are a couple of bikes that would make sense for you (plus you save on gas). My pick of the 3 would be the 930 (since you don't like the Miyata 1000), if you don't mind doing the work it needs.
Trek 930 - Needs a rigid fork = $139 +$55 Shipping
Trek 850 = $200 + $130 Shipping
Specialized Rockhopper - Needs a rigid fork = $240 + $22 Shipping
I only searched for a few models, their are likely more your size on eBay.
Last edited by katsup; 02-27-20 at 03:35 PM.
02-27-20, 04:57 PM
#35
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I like that 850 but I'm showing $329 shipping, plus I'd have to buy a saddle, some street tires, and likely a shorter stem. (The 930 is showing $55 shipping, but it looks a bit rough, and I don't think I care to try and find a matching solid fork. It too would need some riser bars, a shorter stem, a larger saddle, and some new tires.
All of which would cost far more than building that Nishiki. He said he's got a stem and bars, I'd need grips, a rear hub, and a saddle and post. I may even have an old cruiser saddle here. Its got tires, wheels, and a tall frame. The only big expense would be a crankset. I see one piece cranks on eBay for $20 175mm plus $6 for a bottom bracket set for the American bb.From what I see the chain and rear hub would be the biggest expense. Then I'd have a bike with steel wheels, a steel frame, and no cables or shifters to get in the way. The big question would be what rear hub to use? The last coaster brake hub I owned was a New Departure.
All of which would cost far more than building that Nishiki. He said he's got a stem and bars, I'd need grips, a rear hub, and a saddle and post. I may even have an old cruiser saddle here. Its got tires, wheels, and a tall frame. The only big expense would be a crankset. I see one piece cranks on eBay for $20 175mm plus $6 for a bottom bracket set for the American bb.From what I see the chain and rear hub would be the biggest expense. Then I'd have a bike with steel wheels, a steel frame, and no cables or shifters to get in the way. The big question would be what rear hub to use? The last coaster brake hub I owned was a New Departure.
02-27-20, 07:45 PM
#36
Senior Member
Just get a black fork.
Personally I think the NIshiki is a bad idea and it would be easier to find a new rear wheel vs re lacing a hub. Anyway, I am not familiar with that type of bike to assist further, good luck with your endeavour.
I still think you should make a thread in the Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) subforum about the Miyata 1000.
Personally I think the NIshiki is a bad idea and it would be easier to find a new rear wheel vs re lacing a hub. Anyway, I am not familiar with that type of bike to assist further, good luck with your endeavour.
I still think you should make a thread in the Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) subforum about the Miyata 1000.
02-28-20, 07:17 AM
#37
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Finding a new rear wheel would likely be a problem, I can't recall anyone making a 3 speed coaster brake 26" x 2.125" rear wheel, let alone in black chrome.
A hub, and a box of spokes would be a lot faster and a lot cheaper. Even if I just tossed a coaster brake in it the cost would be minimal.
My big concern would be the bottom bracket and what cranks to use on that bike. Its got some sort of adapter in it now but I can't see what holds it all together. The cranks must need some sort of shims to hold the bearings in place with the arms. I'd just as well use what ever it was made to have or find something from the BMX world that will work. I'd need a 170mm crank arm or so.
I dug around and found a cruiser saddle, and a pair of grips, and I've got a bucket of 1/8" chain in the garage from years ago.
The problem would be finding the hub and cranks.
I'll likely put a post over in Clydes/Athenas too but that Miyata is a non issue due to where its at. At over a hundred miles away, its not an option at any cost. It would cost me as much in tolls and diesel fuel as for the bike just to get there and back. The GT Outpost is the best deal but its just too far away. I'd be better off buying the Schwinn Mesa Runner that's listed now, it would be cheaper in the long run and I won't have to go through the whole bike just to ride it. Schwinn has street able tires, works as it sits, is closer, and far cheaper in the end.
I did some research and Mongoose sold out to American Group in 1985 and were distributed by Service Cycle after that point.
The lack of V brakes says its pre Pacific Cycle days but the earliest catalog showing V brakes is 1996 and only on the highest models at that point.
That Mongoose is likely well into the mid to late 90's, likely has index shifting, and likely was made during the Bell or or Brunswick years. I think Bell was the first to put them in department stores.
A hub, and a box of spokes would be a lot faster and a lot cheaper. Even if I just tossed a coaster brake in it the cost would be minimal.
My big concern would be the bottom bracket and what cranks to use on that bike. Its got some sort of adapter in it now but I can't see what holds it all together. The cranks must need some sort of shims to hold the bearings in place with the arms. I'd just as well use what ever it was made to have or find something from the BMX world that will work. I'd need a 170mm crank arm or so.
I dug around and found a cruiser saddle, and a pair of grips, and I've got a bucket of 1/8" chain in the garage from years ago.
The problem would be finding the hub and cranks.
I'll likely put a post over in Clydes/Athenas too but that Miyata is a non issue due to where its at. At over a hundred miles away, its not an option at any cost. It would cost me as much in tolls and diesel fuel as for the bike just to get there and back. The GT Outpost is the best deal but its just too far away. I'd be better off buying the Schwinn Mesa Runner that's listed now, it would be cheaper in the long run and I won't have to go through the whole bike just to ride it. Schwinn has street able tires, works as it sits, is closer, and far cheaper in the end.
I did some research and Mongoose sold out to American Group in 1985 and were distributed by Service Cycle after that point.
The lack of V brakes says its pre Pacific Cycle days but the earliest catalog showing V brakes is 1996 and only on the highest models at that point.
That Mongoose is likely well into the mid to late 90's, likely has index shifting, and likely was made during the Bell or or Brunswick years. I think Bell was the first to put them in department stores.
02-28-20, 09:37 AM
#38
Thrifty Bill
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,524
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
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Do you ever take road trips? Research bike co ops in towns you are passing through. I would not make a 100 mile one way special trip to get a bike. But I have gone even longer distances by including it in a vacation, visiting family, or whatever.
If you want a good deal on a bike, sometimes you need to get creative!
The great thing about a co op they will typically go through the bikes they sell and fix/repair what is needed. In addition, the proceeds from selling bikes goes to support their mission. Meanwhile, a typical older used bike on C/L will need significant maintenance. People tend to ride bikes to failure (something breaks) rather than do any routine maintenance. Some don't even lube the chain. On maintenance, if what I can see hasn't been maintained, I always assume what I can't see hasn't been maintained. So if I see rusty cables, dirty bike, old tires, I assume wheel hubs, bottom bracket, and headset have not seen fresh grease in decades.
My area is dead, dead, dead as far as finding interesting vintage bikes. Prices are low when they pop up, they just don't pop up very often. But I continually find interesting bikes on road trips. I'm on a road trip right now, found a Dave Moulton, a Raleigh International, High Sierra, a Klein, and several more. I've stopped looking as I am out of room. I've found so much I have had to donate three finds. Now in my case, I don't care about size. But I am also just looking for screaming great deals, not good deals, or reasonable deals.
If you want a good deal on a bike, sometimes you need to get creative!
The great thing about a co op they will typically go through the bikes they sell and fix/repair what is needed. In addition, the proceeds from selling bikes goes to support their mission. Meanwhile, a typical older used bike on C/L will need significant maintenance. People tend to ride bikes to failure (something breaks) rather than do any routine maintenance. Some don't even lube the chain. On maintenance, if what I can see hasn't been maintained, I always assume what I can't see hasn't been maintained. So if I see rusty cables, dirty bike, old tires, I assume wheel hubs, bottom bracket, and headset have not seen fresh grease in decades.
My area is dead, dead, dead as far as finding interesting vintage bikes. Prices are low when they pop up, they just don't pop up very often. But I continually find interesting bikes on road trips. I'm on a road trip right now, found a Dave Moulton, a Raleigh International, High Sierra, a Klein, and several more. I've stopped looking as I am out of room. I've found so much I have had to donate three finds. Now in my case, I don't care about size. But I am also just looking for screaming great deals, not good deals, or reasonable deals.
Last edited by wrk101; 02-28-20 at 09:43 AM.
02-29-20, 12:28 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,049
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
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One thing I have realized is that bicycles generally depreciate drastically with age. I am working on a 2000 Bianchi Veloce road bike that had a new price of about $1400 . The current trade in value is under $200.
While some older mtn bikes are starting to have collector value , most do not. A bike like yours, completely reconditioned and inspected at the Bike Exchange where I volunteer would probably sell for $150 . with a guarantee. The cost of the refurb , if it weren't done with volunteer labor would probably be about $200. If you can find a bike co op near you I would check them out before you purchase this bike.
You should definitely start doing something about your weight. I am 6'4" and was 285 lbs. I did a weight loss program at the ymca and lost 40 lbs in 12 weeks and believe me, if you can do this you will feel great afterwords. Dieting doesn't have to be difficult. I stopped eating carbs completely and started swimming and riding my bike and the weight melted off. At your weight you will be surprised how many calories you have to eat just for maintenance. For me it was something like 2500. It is much harder for someone who weighs say 150 lbs to loose weight because their maintenance calories are much lower, hence they have to starve themselves to drop the weight.
While some older mtn bikes are starting to have collector value , most do not. A bike like yours, completely reconditioned and inspected at the Bike Exchange where I volunteer would probably sell for $150 . with a guarantee. The cost of the refurb , if it weren't done with volunteer labor would probably be about $200. If you can find a bike co op near you I would check them out before you purchase this bike.
You should definitely start doing something about your weight. I am 6'4" and was 285 lbs. I did a weight loss program at the ymca and lost 40 lbs in 12 weeks and believe me, if you can do this you will feel great afterwords. Dieting doesn't have to be difficult. I stopped eating carbs completely and started swimming and riding my bike and the weight melted off. At your weight you will be surprised how many calories you have to eat just for maintenance. For me it was something like 2500. It is much harder for someone who weighs say 150 lbs to loose weight because their maintenance calories are much lower, hence they have to starve themselves to drop the weight.
03-01-20, 02:42 AM
#40
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I rarely drive any distance these days, since I retired, and my truck gets about 10 mpg, long trips aren't worth the cost.
I do head down to FL in the winter on occasion but can't say I've seen anything down there lately either and if I did I'd be looking at having to ship it home.
We don't have any bike co-ops here. There isn't many bikes, I can't even remember the last time I saw someone riding a bike on the road who didn't look homeless.
The neighborhood kids don't even own or ride bikes, they don't know how to ride and don't care.
I like the Nishiki, I like the Schwinn, the one thing I can say about the bikes that guy had is that they're clean, and likely won't have any hidden issues. I should have just jumped on the first Schwinn I suppose but the one listed isn't bad either, its just got a few lesser components on it and a bit more paint wear.
Even really nice bikes sit unsold on CL or FB here, for any price. I've seen a few really nice Raleigh Internationals and more recently a couple of Legnano Roma models listed for cheap in what looked to be really nice condition but they sat for sale for years. I made the mistake of picking up a 23" 1960's Peugeot PX10 with its original tubular tires still on it and ridable a few years ago. I bought it for $10 at a yard sale, I listed it for $150. It sat on CL here for three years without a single serious email. I finally took it apart and gave the small parts to a friend who sold them on eBay for me. The frame got scrapped after I didn't even have any takers for it at $10 on CL. I got a ton of emails on the frame saying they'd take it if I would bring it to Philly for free.
Any used bike I buy would have to be worked on by me, bike shops here will not work on anything they didn't sell, and most won't touch anything older than a couple of years. Most of this is likely due to the inability to recoup their labor costs and the fact that most people store their bikes outside and after a few months, those bikes are rusted piles of crap that no one wants to work on.
There are very few new bike dealers left, maybe a half dozen within a hundred mile radius of here. The really good one's shut down either due to old age or lack of customers 20 or more years ago. The few that are left are either selling the same bikes they sell in Walmart or they sell only high end bikes priced out of reach of the average person.
My limit is around $200 for a bike, not that I can't afford it, its that I don't see any bike being worth any more than that. I don't want anything from China, I don't want an aluminum frame, I don't want anything rusty or weathered. It has to be clean enough that I don't mind bringing it in my house as I won't leave a bike outside. If it looks like its got rodents in it, its not coming home with me. A bike with a rusty chain say sits been outdoors for a long time and around here, I'll likely find mice in the frame. That's not coming inside. In order to get to my basement, where I'd store the bike, I have to pass through the kitchen and living room and then down the stairs.
I do head down to FL in the winter on occasion but can't say I've seen anything down there lately either and if I did I'd be looking at having to ship it home.
We don't have any bike co-ops here. There isn't many bikes, I can't even remember the last time I saw someone riding a bike on the road who didn't look homeless.
The neighborhood kids don't even own or ride bikes, they don't know how to ride and don't care.
I like the Nishiki, I like the Schwinn, the one thing I can say about the bikes that guy had is that they're clean, and likely won't have any hidden issues. I should have just jumped on the first Schwinn I suppose but the one listed isn't bad either, its just got a few lesser components on it and a bit more paint wear.
Even really nice bikes sit unsold on CL or FB here, for any price. I've seen a few really nice Raleigh Internationals and more recently a couple of Legnano Roma models listed for cheap in what looked to be really nice condition but they sat for sale for years. I made the mistake of picking up a 23" 1960's Peugeot PX10 with its original tubular tires still on it and ridable a few years ago. I bought it for $10 at a yard sale, I listed it for $150. It sat on CL here for three years without a single serious email. I finally took it apart and gave the small parts to a friend who sold them on eBay for me. The frame got scrapped after I didn't even have any takers for it at $10 on CL. I got a ton of emails on the frame saying they'd take it if I would bring it to Philly for free.
Any used bike I buy would have to be worked on by me, bike shops here will not work on anything they didn't sell, and most won't touch anything older than a couple of years. Most of this is likely due to the inability to recoup their labor costs and the fact that most people store their bikes outside and after a few months, those bikes are rusted piles of crap that no one wants to work on.
There are very few new bike dealers left, maybe a half dozen within a hundred mile radius of here. The really good one's shut down either due to old age or lack of customers 20 or more years ago. The few that are left are either selling the same bikes they sell in Walmart or they sell only high end bikes priced out of reach of the average person.
My limit is around $200 for a bike, not that I can't afford it, its that I don't see any bike being worth any more than that. I don't want anything from China, I don't want an aluminum frame, I don't want anything rusty or weathered. It has to be clean enough that I don't mind bringing it in my house as I won't leave a bike outside. If it looks like its got rodents in it, its not coming home with me. A bike with a rusty chain say sits been outdoors for a long time and around here, I'll likely find mice in the frame. That's not coming inside. In order to get to my basement, where I'd store the bike, I have to pass through the kitchen and living room and then down the stairs.
03-01-20, 05:09 AM
#41
Full Member
Bikes don't sell around this area, for any amount. Every last bike I've ever sold went to a buyer who drove more than 200 miles or so to get it.
I watch really nice bikes listed for weeks, months, and even years on CL, FB, and a few local free papers. The price doesn't matter, nor does condition, if it won't sell for $200, chances are it won't sell for $10 either here.
I've listed low to high end bikes over the years. Its take the chance on having to deal with a predatory buyer on eBay or nothing, Big frames sell best for some reason, the buyers come out of the woodwork for frames too big for them to ride. Wide whitewall tires, lots of chrome, handle bar streamers, 140 spoke wheels, and low rider frames are the only thing that's a guaranteed sale here lately.
I listed a mid 70's era Raleigh Pro in super nice shape a few years ago, it was too small for me in a 21" frame. The bike was scratch free, had been completely gone through and looked like new. I listed it for $400. It sat without a single serious email for two years. I got dozens of emails telling me that no bike is worth more than $25, and dozens more telling me that Walmart sells new bikes for less. It finally sold to a guy from Seattle who was here visiting relatives over the holidays. It had been here and listed on both CL, FB and in the local free paper for three years, five months. The guy who bought it said he saw the ad in the free paper he picked up at a local diner while eating breakfast. He emailed me a pic of him and the bike with the Seattle Skyline behind him. I think he took the bike to a local shipper to have it sent home.
In all the time it was listed I didn't have a single local buyer answer any of my ads.
The way I see it, if I list a bike, the price is the price. I'm not taking a loss because someone wants it for cheap. You can't go to the supermarket and see a piece of steak there and tell them you want it for less. They won't lower the price because you can't afford it. Its either pony up the cash or it stays for sale.
The problem is that this area really don't see the value in a good bike, they either can't tell the difference between a Walmart bike and a high end shop bike, or they see bikes as a kids toy or thing of the past.
The younger generation here don't ride bikes, most in my area don't even know how. The last bike craze were the freestyle BMX bikes of the late 90's/early 00's. After that it died, the shops, who had mostly gone to nothing but BMX closed up and nothing replaced them. The few shops that remain sell department store bikes, but for more money. The nearest 'real' bike shop to me is at least an hour away. The shops that remain don't do parts, they don't fix bikes. I think a lot of the 'We don't fix bikes' comes from the fact they don't know how. I walked into a local bike shop a few years ago because I was short a few spokes for a wheelset I was building. The guy looked at me like I was nuts, he told me "No one builds wheels, it takes some sort of special machine or something". The guy had no clue how to spoke a wheel, adjust a derailleur or anything. they just sold bikes. The owner of the place didn't even put bikes together, he had some kid who came in one or two days a week who put all his bikes together 'because he didn't have any tools like that'.
One shop I walked into had a belt drive single speed beach cruiser for $599, they had a whole row of them right next to a row of 'cheaper' chain drive cruisers for $499.
They had no geared bikes in the place. Lots of pink, powder blue, and matte black bikes, all with brands I've never heard of all laid out on a carpeted floor with tile paved walkways in between. The bikes were cabled up to eye bolts in the floor and blocked off so you couldn't sit on one. A big NO TEST RIDES sign was prominent in the showroom, and another sign saying "We do not take returns so choose wisely". They were there for only a few months before I noticed it had become a fast food yogurt place.
If you want a good bike, bide you time and buy what you want, buy one that fits you. If you want selection, you'll need to travel, if you don't see it listed locally, things don't change very fast on CL here.
Hit the yard sales, but even the yard sale prices here are crazy sometimes. Everyone things they have a pot of gold sitting there. Flea markets are mostly all professional dealers who are there every week, they buy at auctions and flip their wares on the weekends. Rarely will you find a deal there. Unfortunately CL and FB are turning into the same thing. As are the other Phone based apps that are out there now.
I watch really nice bikes listed for weeks, months, and even years on CL, FB, and a few local free papers. The price doesn't matter, nor does condition, if it won't sell for $200, chances are it won't sell for $10 either here.
I've listed low to high end bikes over the years. Its take the chance on having to deal with a predatory buyer on eBay or nothing, Big frames sell best for some reason, the buyers come out of the woodwork for frames too big for them to ride. Wide whitewall tires, lots of chrome, handle bar streamers, 140 spoke wheels, and low rider frames are the only thing that's a guaranteed sale here lately.
I listed a mid 70's era Raleigh Pro in super nice shape a few years ago, it was too small for me in a 21" frame. The bike was scratch free, had been completely gone through and looked like new. I listed it for $400. It sat without a single serious email for two years. I got dozens of emails telling me that no bike is worth more than $25, and dozens more telling me that Walmart sells new bikes for less. It finally sold to a guy from Seattle who was here visiting relatives over the holidays. It had been here and listed on both CL, FB and in the local free paper for three years, five months. The guy who bought it said he saw the ad in the free paper he picked up at a local diner while eating breakfast. He emailed me a pic of him and the bike with the Seattle Skyline behind him. I think he took the bike to a local shipper to have it sent home.
In all the time it was listed I didn't have a single local buyer answer any of my ads.
The way I see it, if I list a bike, the price is the price. I'm not taking a loss because someone wants it for cheap. You can't go to the supermarket and see a piece of steak there and tell them you want it for less. They won't lower the price because you can't afford it. Its either pony up the cash or it stays for sale.
The problem is that this area really don't see the value in a good bike, they either can't tell the difference between a Walmart bike and a high end shop bike, or they see bikes as a kids toy or thing of the past.
The younger generation here don't ride bikes, most in my area don't even know how. The last bike craze were the freestyle BMX bikes of the late 90's/early 00's. After that it died, the shops, who had mostly gone to nothing but BMX closed up and nothing replaced them. The few shops that remain sell department store bikes, but for more money. The nearest 'real' bike shop to me is at least an hour away. The shops that remain don't do parts, they don't fix bikes. I think a lot of the 'We don't fix bikes' comes from the fact they don't know how. I walked into a local bike shop a few years ago because I was short a few spokes for a wheelset I was building. The guy looked at me like I was nuts, he told me "No one builds wheels, it takes some sort of special machine or something". The guy had no clue how to spoke a wheel, adjust a derailleur or anything. they just sold bikes. The owner of the place didn't even put bikes together, he had some kid who came in one or two days a week who put all his bikes together 'because he didn't have any tools like that'.
One shop I walked into had a belt drive single speed beach cruiser for $599, they had a whole row of them right next to a row of 'cheaper' chain drive cruisers for $499.
They had no geared bikes in the place. Lots of pink, powder blue, and matte black bikes, all with brands I've never heard of all laid out on a carpeted floor with tile paved walkways in between. The bikes were cabled up to eye bolts in the floor and blocked off so you couldn't sit on one. A big NO TEST RIDES sign was prominent in the showroom, and another sign saying "We do not take returns so choose wisely". They were there for only a few months before I noticed it had become a fast food yogurt place.
If you want a good bike, bide you time and buy what you want, buy one that fits you. If you want selection, you'll need to travel, if you don't see it listed locally, things don't change very fast on CL here.
Hit the yard sales, but even the yard sale prices here are crazy sometimes. Everyone things they have a pot of gold sitting there. Flea markets are mostly all professional dealers who are there every week, they buy at auctions and flip their wares on the weekends. Rarely will you find a deal there. Unfortunately CL and FB are turning into the same thing. As are the other Phone based apps that are out there now.
03-01-20, 07:01 AM
#42
Full Member
That Nishiki looks like a Pacific model, they made a Pacific, and a Pacific 6.
Both were considered cruisers but they were sort of a cross between a cruiser and a big BMX bike.
The plain Pacific came with a coaster brake, the Pacific 6 had a rear derailleur and six speeds on a 14-28t freewheel.
The cranks were Wald one piece, as was the stem, seat post and bars. The frame was plain steel.
They came about at a time when MTB bikes were just starting to gain popularity so I think they wanted a cruiser that would appeal
to a younger crowd. The straight bmx style fork make them a bit different from most cruisers back then. The laid back angle of the headtube made it a very easy to ride bike.
I do think they had alloy rims laced to a coaster brake or freehwheel hub. The rims were usually from Weinmann.
I even saw a few with plastic fenders added.
I think they ended up being too expensive compared to the other cruisers out there at the time, the cruiser buyer back then was more likely to just buy a department store bike or one of the American made cruisers being sold by Ross, Columbia, or Schwinn at that time and the more expensive Nishiki didn't stick around for more than a year or two. The five speed was too close in price to a full on Mountain bike with 10 or more speeds, so many just opted for an entry level MTB, and those who wanted simple, didn't want any gears to shift.
Here's a pic from the 1987 catalog
Both were considered cruisers but they were sort of a cross between a cruiser and a big BMX bike.
The plain Pacific came with a coaster brake, the Pacific 6 had a rear derailleur and six speeds on a 14-28t freewheel.
The cranks were Wald one piece, as was the stem, seat post and bars. The frame was plain steel.
They came about at a time when MTB bikes were just starting to gain popularity so I think they wanted a cruiser that would appeal
to a younger crowd. The straight bmx style fork make them a bit different from most cruisers back then. The laid back angle of the headtube made it a very easy to ride bike.
I do think they had alloy rims laced to a coaster brake or freehwheel hub. The rims were usually from Weinmann.
I even saw a few with plastic fenders added.
I think they ended up being too expensive compared to the other cruisers out there at the time, the cruiser buyer back then was more likely to just buy a department store bike or one of the American made cruisers being sold by Ross, Columbia, or Schwinn at that time and the more expensive Nishiki didn't stick around for more than a year or two. The five speed was too close in price to a full on Mountain bike with 10 or more speeds, so many just opted for an entry level MTB, and those who wanted simple, didn't want any gears to shift.
Here's a pic from the 1987 catalog
03-01-20, 09:02 AM
#43
Thrifty Bill
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,524
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
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Really too many requirements. You are losing time waiting. It’s that old saying “if your current standards aren’t working, lower them”.
I’d just head to Walmart, or bikesdirect, wherever and get a rigid frame MTB and start riding. Yes it will be made in China just like almost all cell phones and computers.
The sooner you start riding the sooner you benefit.
If you wear out the Walmart bike you got the benefit of some great exercise which is priceless.
As I get older, my #1 concern is loss of mobility. I am working hard to keep it. Quality of life goes to just about zero when you lose mobility. I have friends going through it right now, in laws that dealt with it in the past (now gone).
And of course lots of exercises and movements do not require a bike. Walking, working out, etc. Bikes just give you another tool in the battle!
I’d just head to Walmart, or bikesdirect, wherever and get a rigid frame MTB and start riding. Yes it will be made in China just like almost all cell phones and computers.
The sooner you start riding the sooner you benefit.
If you wear out the Walmart bike you got the benefit of some great exercise which is priceless.
As I get older, my #1 concern is loss of mobility. I am working hard to keep it. Quality of life goes to just about zero when you lose mobility. I have friends going through it right now, in laws that dealt with it in the past (now gone).
And of course lots of exercises and movements do not require a bike. Walking, working out, etc. Bikes just give you another tool in the battle!
Last edited by wrk101; 03-01-20 at 09:30 AM.
03-01-20, 10:05 AM
#44
Senior Member
Make an offer on the eBay 850 and see what happens. I just got an offer from the seller from viewing the listing that was a significant amount off.
03-01-20, 04:17 PM
#45
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The 850 isn't an option even if it were free, the shipping alone is more than the bike is worth to me. The shipping is $329. to NJ. That just isn't going to happen. Especially for a bike that will likely require me to spend even more money on it.
I'd still be better off with the Schwinn Mesa Runner for $200, at least its ridable the way it sits and a far better looking bike than the 850. Just by looking at that bike, I see its going to need two good street tires, a shorter stem, and taller bars, more like what the Mesa Runner has on it.
After looking at that Nishiki, I'm not sure if I want gears or not now, maybe a three speed at best. No derailleur means an evenly spoked rear wheel with no dish, making it far stronger. I'm not a fan of the one piece cranks but if I can find a set that are suitable, they are super simple. I have concerns about making something work with the spindle and bb on the bike now. BMX options are too expensive.
I may grab the Nishiki and start hunting for a donor bike, but meanwhile keep looking for an older mountain bike. One of my concerns about the Mesa Runner is that its not a Schwinn, but a rebadged Giant, just like the High Sierra I had years ago and had lots of issues with. Including a broken frame and horrible brakes. (The first Mesa runner which I test rode had super touchy brakes, they were very sensitive and would stop with almost no lever pressure. I didn't expect that out of huge long reach calipers like it had.
Something else that bothers me is that all the 26" tires I see out there are fairly low pressure. The tires on most of these bikes are marked 40-45 psi max. At my size and weight that may make for some hard pedaling. Even with 50 psi, the tires on that Schwinn looked almost flat with my weight on it.
I couldn't tell how the tires on that Nishiki handled weight but they were only marked 30 psi. Much like an old 50's balloon tire bike tire.
I'd still be better off with the Schwinn Mesa Runner for $200, at least its ridable the way it sits and a far better looking bike than the 850. Just by looking at that bike, I see its going to need two good street tires, a shorter stem, and taller bars, more like what the Mesa Runner has on it.
After looking at that Nishiki, I'm not sure if I want gears or not now, maybe a three speed at best. No derailleur means an evenly spoked rear wheel with no dish, making it far stronger. I'm not a fan of the one piece cranks but if I can find a set that are suitable, they are super simple. I have concerns about making something work with the spindle and bb on the bike now. BMX options are too expensive.
I may grab the Nishiki and start hunting for a donor bike, but meanwhile keep looking for an older mountain bike. One of my concerns about the Mesa Runner is that its not a Schwinn, but a rebadged Giant, just like the High Sierra I had years ago and had lots of issues with. Including a broken frame and horrible brakes. (The first Mesa runner which I test rode had super touchy brakes, they were very sensitive and would stop with almost no lever pressure. I didn't expect that out of huge long reach calipers like it had.
Something else that bothers me is that all the 26" tires I see out there are fairly low pressure. The tires on most of these bikes are marked 40-45 psi max. At my size and weight that may make for some hard pedaling. Even with 50 psi, the tires on that Schwinn looked almost flat with my weight on it.
I couldn't tell how the tires on that Nishiki handled weight but they were only marked 30 psi. Much like an old 50's balloon tire bike tire.
03-01-20, 05:03 PM
#46
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
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Been up for a while, make an offer that will make it worth the drive.
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/...071784851.html
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/...071784851.html
GARY FISHER HOO KOO E KOO - $215 (Blackwood)
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03-02-20, 04:05 AM
#47
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I saw that one, its about an hour and a half from me, up near Philly. That seller appears to be a bike flipper, he's got several others listed under several CL areas up that way.
The Gary Fisher is a lot newer than I'm looking for, its a smaller frame, and has front suspension. Like the the Trek 850, it would also need road tires.
I think the bikes I like best are pre-1989 or so, with a shorter stem, riser type handle bars, no suspension, and no index shifting.
The fewer the speeds the better.
There's really no need to shift gears here, everything is basically flat and most all my riding will be around the neighborhood or on
paved or hard packed bike trails in a few state parks. Most of the roads here either ban bikes or are just too dangerous to ride on due to high speed traffic and no shoulders.
The Gary Fisher is a lot newer than I'm looking for, its a smaller frame, and has front suspension. Like the the Trek 850, it would also need road tires.
I think the bikes I like best are pre-1989 or so, with a shorter stem, riser type handle bars, no suspension, and no index shifting.
The fewer the speeds the better.
There's really no need to shift gears here, everything is basically flat and most all my riding will be around the neighborhood or on
paved or hard packed bike trails in a few state parks. Most of the roads here either ban bikes or are just too dangerous to ride on due to high speed traffic and no shoulders.
05-15-20, 01:31 AM
#48
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I'm going to revive this thread since this is relevant to the original post.
I bought the Nishiki Pacific, plus I bought two new old stock alloy Araya Dimpled 26x2.125 rims. I now have to figure out which hubs I want to use. The steel wheels on the bike now aren't staying on it, I don't want a derailleur bike,
I'll likely break then down to use on another bike.
I also ordered several boxes of SS spokes to cover building either a coaster brake or three speed rear hub.
I'll likely toss the current bb in favor of a more modern BMX type crankset and bb to fit directly into the larger shell.
Until I find a deal on another crankset and bb, I'll just run a one piece forged crank for now.
I also picked up a couple of other project bikes since like most people I've got more time on my hands lately. I make separate posts as I get to those.
During the recent forced quarantine, I've had more time on my hands and somehow managed to drop about 80 lbs. The funny thing is I really have no clue how or why but I went down four pants sizes and went from a 3x to a 2x shirt size. I mainly lost gut size and waist size. The odd part is that food wise, I've been eating more take out than usual to avoid the crowded supermarket and the fact that they've been out of most things I normally buy.
Eggs, bread, fresh vegitables, and milk were in short supply for few weeks for some reason. I'm eating a lot of rice, beans, ground meat, canned tuna, and chicken.
I bought the Nishiki Pacific, plus I bought two new old stock alloy Araya Dimpled 26x2.125 rims. I now have to figure out which hubs I want to use. The steel wheels on the bike now aren't staying on it, I don't want a derailleur bike,
I'll likely break then down to use on another bike.
I also ordered several boxes of SS spokes to cover building either a coaster brake or three speed rear hub.
I'll likely toss the current bb in favor of a more modern BMX type crankset and bb to fit directly into the larger shell.
Until I find a deal on another crankset and bb, I'll just run a one piece forged crank for now.
I also picked up a couple of other project bikes since like most people I've got more time on my hands lately. I make separate posts as I get to those.
During the recent forced quarantine, I've had more time on my hands and somehow managed to drop about 80 lbs. The funny thing is I really have no clue how or why but I went down four pants sizes and went from a 3x to a 2x shirt size. I mainly lost gut size and waist size. The odd part is that food wise, I've been eating more take out than usual to avoid the crowded supermarket and the fact that they've been out of most things I normally buy.
Eggs, bread, fresh vegitables, and milk were in short supply for few weeks for some reason. I'm eating a lot of rice, beans, ground meat, canned tuna, and chicken.
