Canti Pivot Relocation
#1
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Canti Pivot Relocation
What’s the best way to remove existing canti pivots?
I'm planning to do a 27” to 26” (630>559) conversion on my ‘80s Fiji Touring Series IV (Quad butted Valite tubing). Since I ride 153mm cranks and have hip and knee mobility issues when dismounting, the lower BB is the goal, not a problem.
New Location?
It’s always seemed to me that there must be a universal formula for positioning brake pivots, that will cause the brake pads to contact the rim at the optimum angle in their arc.
Distance from axle = (ETRTO/2) - “X”
Width = Rim width + “Y”
But I’ve never seen any values for X & Y
Is Fillet Pro “Plan A” for pivots these days? I bought a 5 oz. coil from Freddy Parr when it 1st came out, but I’ve been too busy shortening cranks to use it. I always brazed on brake pivots with 56% silver. But I haven’t built a frame in a decade, so I’m out of practice.
BTW Is Freddy still around?
Mark Stonich; BikeSmith Design & Fabrication
5349 Elliot Ave S. Minneapolis, MN 55417 USA
Ph. (612) 710-9593 https://bikesmithdesign.com
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikesmith/ (Mostly Wildlife)
I'm planning to do a 27” to 26” (630>559) conversion on my ‘80s Fiji Touring Series IV (Quad butted Valite tubing). Since I ride 153mm cranks and have hip and knee mobility issues when dismounting, the lower BB is the goal, not a problem.
New Location?
It’s always seemed to me that there must be a universal formula for positioning brake pivots, that will cause the brake pads to contact the rim at the optimum angle in their arc.
Distance from axle = (ETRTO/2) - “X”
Width = Rim width + “Y”
But I’ve never seen any values for X & Y
Is Fillet Pro “Plan A” for pivots these days? I bought a 5 oz. coil from Freddy Parr when it 1st came out, but I’ve been too busy shortening cranks to use it. I always brazed on brake pivots with 56% silver. But I haven’t built a frame in a decade, so I’m out of practice.
BTW Is Freddy still around?
Mark Stonich; BikeSmith Design & Fabrication
5349 Elliot Ave S. Minneapolis, MN 55417 USA
Ph. (612) 710-9593 https://bikesmithdesign.com
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikesmith/ (Mostly Wildlife)
#2
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axle center to cantilever stud center 253.5 is standard for 26" I have two 3/4" x 5" square tubes with the stud size drilled through to hold them while brazing, that I have been fairly happy with.
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Generally, I would use heat as the last resort which is to say, cut them off and file any residue off the tube. with canti bosses, it's probably ok to get them really hot and melt the filler without putting much heat into the tube but you'll still need to file off the filler from the tube. So, i'd burn up the saw blade rather than the gas.
Fillet Pro will be great for the new ones.
shimano tech dock I have shows the following:
Fillet Pro will be great for the new ones.
shimano tech dock I have shows the following:
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Cantis work better with as short of a distance between the pad and the pivot as possible.
I cut them off with a hacksaw and then file off the remnants. I have always used bronze on canti posts, probably just superstition.
Freddy passed away some time back. Cycle designs still exists.
I cut them off with a hacksaw and then file off the remnants. I have always used bronze on canti posts, probably just superstition.
Freddy passed away some time back. Cycle designs still exists.
#5
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When I brazed on my cantilever posts , I had my Mafac Cantilevers in hand,,
and used the brakes themselves to determine where they should go ..
Mafac has no pad height adjustment slot so where the posts were placed was the 1st adjustment
if the front , in retrospect, were placed on center of the fork blades , more modern cantilevers would fit..
this is what AlAn did for their CX forks ...
and used the brakes themselves to determine where they should go ..
Mafac has no pad height adjustment slot so where the posts were placed was the 1st adjustment
if the front , in retrospect, were placed on center of the fork blades , more modern cantilevers would fit..
this is what AlAn did for their CX forks ...