amazinmets73

I'm planning to build 2 bike frames with Campagnolo groupsets. I've been searching for affordable Campy cranks and came across a solid deal on 10-speed power torque cranks.

The merchant states the following:

Campagnolo Centaur Alloy CT Power-Torque Chainset - 10 Speed

• Forged aluminium cranks
• Chainrings with MPS™ (Micro Precision Shifting)
• light-alloy sheared-drawn chainrings with anti-friction treatment
• 8 pins on the large chainring
• Integrated Power-Torque™ axle
• Requires Power-Torque™ BB cups (Not Included)

My question is whether this crank is compatible with my frames bottom bracket. For reference one frame is a running a FSA mega exo crank while the other sports a Shimano hollowtech.

Marcus_Ti

You will need PT cups for your BB shell interface. Neither system you mention is in anyway cross compatible with PT.

speedevil 

You can get Campy BB cups in english or italian threading, for 68mm and 70mm BB shells, respectively. I'm not sure of the difference between ultra-torque and power-torque cups, but any dealer should be able to point you in the right direction. Be aware that some older PT cranks require a special tool to remove them. The newer PT cranks (2016 and newer) have a self-extracting feature.

Marcus_Ti

A) UT cranks/cups revolve around a half-spindle design separated by a hirth joint in the middle. The are designed with the DS & NDS bearing pressed onto the each half-spindle itself. Thus the cups themselves are just empty cups.

B) PT, both new and old, is a more traditional spindle design--only one spindle that's bonded to the DS arm. As such only the DS bearing can be pressed onto the spindle (DS cup still empty)...and the NDS cup therefore is a "normal" BB cup with bearing actually housed in it.

easyupbug 

Here is a Campy link that should give you all you need to know as to fitting your frame:https://www.campagnolo.com/media/fil...nolo_06_12.pdf

I believe only the Potenza Power Torque cranksets are self extracting, I doubt Centaur are. Power Torque pullers are $$$, Parks is near $100 but a Harbor Freight $15 Pitman arm puller and a little grinding and a 15mm socket and you have a puller. Search DIY Power Torque pullers.

gfk_velo

Only Potenza (11s), MY2017 & 2018 are self extracting PowerTorque.
Potenza (11s) 2019 is UltraTorque.
Athena (11s), Centaur 10s, Veloce 10s and Potenza 2015 / 16 (11s) all require a puller.

All PT versions use the same PT cups.

We would recommend that you use a Facom U301 puller. This tool is the one that Campagnolo themselves have recommended ever since the launch of PT, a recommendation that has been widely ignored, leading to the reputation that PT cranks are difficult to pull - not true. The key difference from most other pullers in the market is that the more pressure that is exerted by the jack, the harder the puller arms are pulled into the work - so the tool can only slip off the crank (and damage it) is if it's not properly centred over the crank arm.

In the UK, find this tool at PrimeTools | UK suppliers of professional hand & power tools

VAR also make a very good puller that we use regularly, as do Cyclus, although their tool is more complicated.
We can supply the VAR tool in the UK For the Cyclus tool, any UK shop with an account with i-Ride can supply.
In other countries, please check the local distribution of these brands.

We do not recommend the Park CBP-3 puller - we've seen too many cranks damaged by it in the past. Most of the "backyard" solutions work essentially the same way as the Park puller, using a simple tie-bar to hold the puller legs at the correct spacing. This can work if the tie is rigid and metal but is not as good a solution as any of those recommended above.

In any case you will need a 14mm allen key (for the axle end bolt) which is commonly used as a sump-plug tool in the automotive trade - so often more easily found at an automotive tool supplier than your LBS.

Available BB cups are British Standard Cycle (BSC) threaded, Italian thread, BB386, BB30, BB30PF, BB86.5 x 41 and BB86.5 x 46

If you are fitting press fit adapters into a BB shell with a carbon bore, or an anodised / clear coated aluminium alloy bore:

• Thoroughly degrease the BB shell and cups.
• Use Loctite 7649 to prime the surfaces inside the BB shell.
• Use Loctite 603, 609 or 641 (availability varies with country) on the cups.
• Press (DON'T HAMMER) the cups fully home and leave the pressure on the press for around 60 min before removal

If the BB shell is raw aluminium alloy, you don't need the Loctite 7649 - but the rest of the procedure is the same.

Don't forget to grease the axle splines when assembling, otherwise subsequent stripping can be extremely difficult.
Use a torque wrench when fitting the axle end bolt - over-tighteneing can lead to the crank end bolt bottoming out.
Don't forget to assemble the clip on the gear side - make sure both tines of the clip are all the way home through the two drillings in the gear side cup.

When stripping, don't forget to remove the narrow chrome-steel washer that fits under the head of the axle end bolt, or you will certainly damage the crank and possibly break the puller as well (since you will be trying to pull the crank past a piece of solid steel).