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Another chrome ATB from the 80s!

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Another chrome ATB from the 80s!

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Old 12-13-18, 01:15 PM
  #26  
jetboy 
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The pedals have a clover on them. I have 3 sets of these pedals actually- all from 80s MTB so it seems like they were standard equipment for the time. they work great and look super cool. and yeah, the wheels are the coolest thing i've seen in a while. make the bike really- even more than the chrome.

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Old 12-13-18, 01:31 PM
  #27  
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IIRC, the four clovers is VP brand, common maker of pedals similar to Wellgo. Often called "bear traps", owing to their unfortunate resemblance to the real thing.

And indeed, they definitely complete the look.

Last edited by madpogue; 12-13-18 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 12-13-18, 02:51 PM
  #28  
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Awesome. I want every 22-24 inch 80s MTB I see, and I don't have a chrome one yet! I like that it has some rise on the stem.
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Old 12-13-18, 04:04 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jetboy
The pedals have a clover on them. I have 3 sets of these pedals actually- all from 80s MTB so it seems like they were standard equipment for the time. they work great and look super cool. and yeah, the wheels are the coolest thing i've seen in a while. make the bike really- even more than the chrome.

The pedals are VP (I think the V stands for victor?) but they were the cheap knock offs BITD though Ironically they are still in business and Suntour isn't. VP were the OEM pedals for a lot of bikes.
The difference in prices back in the 80's were you could buy the VP like yours for $10, but the actual Suntour were $25. Now days a decent set like you have is worth $20-$30 where as the Suntours are over $100. Heck if you find a set of suntours NOS in a box they go over $300!!

Here's a pic of the Suntour

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Old 12-13-18, 04:20 PM
  #30  
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my mongoose back in the day


my mongoose back in the day
Originally Posted by jetboy
So i picked up a little consolation prize today after a bike I built up ended up having a major flaw in the frame: Mongoose All Terrain! @curbtender alerted me and it was 5 minutes from work. just down the street actually- and guy was moving out. he probably would have taken less than the $50, but i did not feel like haggling on a deal. Cool shifters, decent shape--- some rust but shoudl buff out. sadly the avocet touring seat is broken as its a nice seat. and the mountech RD, no surprise, is fubared. looks pretty. I do have another fubared one so maybe together they can make one functional... but its probably gonna get a shimano XT and forget it.


oh wow that is a good score. I bought one of those new in 1986. Threw it off some fairly major(for the time) hills . Was great fun .
Nice to have the pro rims too!
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Old 12-13-18, 04:25 PM
  #31  
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Does that have a 4130 sticker or is it some extra special joshiwata steel?
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Old 12-13-18, 04:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by curbtender
Does that have a 4130 sticker or is it some extra special joshiwata steel?
That baby is triple butted 4130!

Here's the catalog from 1985 if anyone is interested https://www.vintagemongoose.com/pdfs/mongoose_cat85.pdf
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Old 12-13-18, 04:58 PM
  #33  
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This story might be complete bunk, but it was told to me who by my friend who was a professional BMX racer...

Do you notice how the head tube seems a little bit unusually long?

Well in the early 80's a lot of BMX frames had the problem breaking at the head tube. They didn't realize at the time that the reason they broke was the gusset made the frame too ridged. So they came up with the "MooseGoose" with the idea that a super long head tube would make the frame much stronger and harder to break. And they also thought Adults would want to ride these crazy kids bikes if the frame was taller.



For some reason they thought they were going to sell millions of these things and ended up only selling a handful. So they were left with all this precut tubing, and it was going to cost a fortune to re-cut all this extra tubing.

Well I'm not sure who but some genius actually invented the classic 80's scooter to use up all this extra tubing.



Now this is speculation on my part... But I've always wondered with their MTB's if they still hadn't gave up on the idea that a longer head tube made for a much stronger frame and incorporated it into the design. Or just like the scooters they tought it was a good way to get rid of this extra tubing?
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Old 12-13-18, 06:34 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by cbrstar
That baby is triple butted 4130!

Here's the catalog from 1985 if anyone is interested https://www.vintagemongoose.com/pdfs/mongoose_cat85.pdf
yeah, thats great! thanks for the link- its the exact bike. By that this baby is pretty much original-
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Old 12-14-18, 06:07 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cbrstar
Now this is speculation on my part... But I've always wondered with their MTB's if they still hadn't gave up on the idea that a longer head tube made for a much stronger frame and incorporated it into the design. Or just like the scooters they tought it was a good way to get rid of this extra tubing?
I recall frames not having the gusset cracking at the head tube, but my memory could be of cheaper frames. Well, that and the early aluminum stuff (PK, JMC) or crazy form over function stuff (CW Phaze). I would think the tall head tube was needed to be a little longer to get that slack angle for downhill geometry, but that's just my guess. Although they made multiple sizes I did not get why they made them so tall. I can't imagine falling from those if riding seriously but I also think in terms of bmx. As downhill bikes it may not have mattered as much. Or maybe it was influence from the tall road frames of the 70's.

I do really like the mid 80s and earlier MTBs now and have several. Many have some nice BMX touches and parts.
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Old 12-14-18, 10:51 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Bikerider007
I recall frames not having the gusset cracking at the head tube, but my memory could be of cheaper frames. Well, that and the early aluminum stuff (PK, JMC) or crazy form over function stuff (CW Phaze). I would think the tall head tube was needed to be a little longer to get that slack angle for downhill geometry, but that's just my guess. Although they made multiple sizes I did not get why they made them so tall. I can't imagine falling from those if riding seriously but I also think in terms of bmx. As downhill bikes it may not have mattered as much. Or maybe it was influence from the tall road frames of the 70's.

I do really like the mid 80s and earlier MTBs now and have several. Many have some nice BMX touches and parts.
My understanding is a frame when you land the frame needs to flex and absorb the shock. So a gusset instead of strengthening the joint makes the joint far more ridged causing it to snap under high stress instead of flexing and absorbing the energy. At least that's that theory, but like you say many non-gusset frames still broke at the head tube.

Maybe the moosegoose story is one of those 80's BMX urban legends like sticking your skyway wheels in the freezer lol. I can't help to feel like they were more trying to make a bike that would appeal more to adults. It would be interesting though to find out if they really had any connection with the scooters.
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Old 12-14-18, 05:35 PM
  #37  
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Not a lot of changes- i just greased up, swapped RD's, new cable, and put "new" tires on it and threw a breezer saddle on- did a bit of rust removal but did not go crazy. i made the mistake last time of spending a BUNCh of time on getting the bike perfect before I actually went riding on it. This one will develop as it goes.

so far its fun! big fat 2.125 tires fit fine

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Old 12-14-18, 06:34 PM
  #38  
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There you go.
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Old 12-14-18, 08:07 PM
  #39  
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very NICE !
Congrats
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Old 12-15-18, 08:19 AM
  #40  
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That’s a sick bike! I have a chrome Ross Mt Hood. I plan on turning it into a cruiser with riser bars because it’s slightly small for me and I want a more upright winter position... anyway, I tried to swap in a Ross riser stem (figured it should match the bike) from the bay and it wouldn’t fit!

Turns out they used BMX specs for the fork and I needed a 7/8” stem. My point is, check the stem before you decide to do anything with your cockpit.

I now have a 7/8” Bullmoose handlebar hanging around...

Oh, and shiny fenders look pretty awesome on chrome bikes.
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Old 12-16-18, 10:17 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by mountaindave
That’s a sick bike! I have a chrome Ross Mt Hood. I plan on turning it into a cruiser with riser bars because it’s slightly small for me and I want a more upright winter position... anyway, I tried to swap in a Ross riser stem (figured it should match the bike) from the bay and it wouldn’t fit!

Turns out they used BMX specs for the fork and I needed a 7/8” stem. My point is, check the stem before you decide to do anything with your cockpit.

I now have a 7/8” Bullmoose handlebar hanging around...

Oh, and shiny fenders look pretty awesome on chrome bikes.
Indeed the stem is 7/8. I had a Nitto DD turned down to fit my ATB. It was a sw8 bike but I gave it to a friend who wanted to get back into cycling.
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Old 12-21-18, 11:49 AM
  #42  
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here's mine


rides great. i think it's the slack angles. still on replacement wheels. i rebuilt the front proclass rimmed wheel after this pic was taken. still need to get to the rear. iirc the rear spacing is on the narrow side for mtbs

Last edited by Chris Chicago; 12-21-18 at 11:51 AM. Reason: add
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Old 09-05-21, 01:31 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by cbrstar
What an awesome find! Those wheels are what Mongoose called "Pro Class" and at the time were top of the line. I actually didn't know they made them for MTB as I thought they were a BMX only thing. Also if those pedals are Suntour they are pretty valuable in the BMX collectors scene and well worth more then you paid for the entire bike.

..There's also a story about the super long head tube.
Thise Bear Claw pedals are just that slip 1 time and you will find out clothing will not withstand the edges on then, neither will the skin underneath.
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