jdotconnor

after receiving my road bike and going on 3 10 mile rides, soon to up the mileage, the other day while climbing I noticed a couple things.

1.) The cables seem to be twisted as they come from under the bar tape.

2.) it seems they should should have been installed in a different order.

3.) the cables are at different orientations under the bar tape from left to right hand making positioning while I am climbing.

4.) as a minor thing, the cable seem awfully long

My border-line OCD personality can't accept this so I'm going to fix it.
As I am about to buy a Specialized Toupe Saddle (I had one previously and was comfortable on it) and have this desire to try a white one I was also going to install matching white bar tape, despite knowing how dirty it will get, to match. My question is:

Is there a certain order from closest to stem to furthest that cables are suggested to go? ex: Alternating; left (front) brake, right (rear) brake, left (front derailer) shift, right (rear derailer)

As my flexibility is getting better the handlebars have been dropping 1cm at a time but looking at the mess in front of my stem gets to me.

Leisesturm

It doesn't sound like you have enough experience to "correct" this. I'm not seeing a problem, looking at your photos. Cables are "long" because as you turn the bars from straight ahead to full lock left or to full lock right you use that slack up. You also may one day have the desire to take out the top spacers and run your bars higher. The shop has left you some slack to do that with. Beyond the left brake lever controlling the front brake and the left gear shift controlling the front derailleur, and the corresponding situation on the right side I don't think there are any "rules". And I often swap brake lever associations to match motorcycle and scooter conventions, because I also ride those. No rules, can you handle it? It's your bike, have at it. But getting things back together (and working) again is a beast if you don't know how. I don't think you know how.

striknein

I go front brake, rear brake, rear derailleur, front derailleur. That way I know the rear cable isn't somehow screwing with action on the front brake, and having the rear brake already setup makes derailleur adjustment much easier.

You do want a little slack in case you need to make changes to the cockpit, but that much seems sloppy and excessive.

FBinNY 

I agree that you're obsessing over nothing, and that the cables are very close to "right" as they are. The only issue I see is the difference in height of the cables under the tape where one or both may be in an uncomfortable place. Often this can be resolved my massaging the cables around without needing to remove the tape, and you'll want them under the knuckles where your grip leaves a natural space.

Otherwise, you're best bet is to continue riding with them as they are as long as performance, ie. good shifting action is OK. Soon enough you'll be bringing the bike in for some warranty adjustments or the "30 day" check. At that point, express your concerns to the mechanic and let them "correct" the problem. As for the twisted routing up front. Some mechanic do this intentially so one cable can lend a bit of support to the other and prevent drooping, especially of the gear cables. I don't know if that's the case here, but if the mechanic says it is, he's not just putting you off.

maddog34

that doesn't look as bad as many others I've run into! the lengths are about right, and the tisting could be remedied by removing the tape, then the brifters and unwinding as you see fit to do. If yo have trouble removing the brifters, a local shop can help you... Retaping vids are all over on youtube. watch two or three, as some of the verbal explanations can be vague or confusing.

zebede

This job just looks sloppy.

Excessive brake and shifter housing, obviously crossed under the tape and exciting at different locations from the tape.

I would also want to redo. I am not familiar with how the shifter cable housing exits those shifters, but I do not think the housings should cross under the tape.

rmfnla

I agree.

Cable routing when done wrong ruins the look of an otherwise beautiful bike.

This looks like it was assembled in a hurry.

I would go back to the shop and check out other similar bikes; odds are they have more than one wrench and another example might have been done better.

Then you will know how it should look...

FBinNY 

As a rule, bicycles come from the factory with the bars already taped, and usually attached to the stem. I agree that it's not the most beautiful job, but doubt that most shop mechanic would consider it to require retaping. Anyway, the cables can be moved sideways without retaping.

As for the twists, it might be intentional (mine are) or might be the result of twisting the bars a 1/2 turn in the wrong direction when assembling onto the bike. It's hard to trace in a photo, but often these are easily fixed as one might fix tangled string, without the need to disconnect the cables. Think Chinese puzzle.

As I advised earlier, it's not critical and can wait to be brought up next time you visit the shop for some kind of tune up. If the shop is a short ride away you might as well go sooner at your convenience. bt, IMO, this is more about OCD than anything mechanical.

FBinNY 

As a rule, bicycles come from the factory with the bars already taped, and usually attached to the stem. I agree that it's not the most beautiful job, but doubt that most shop mechanic would consider it to require retaping. Anyway, the cables can be moved sideways without retaping.

As for the twists, it might be intentional (mine are) or might be the result of twisting the bars a 1/2 turn in the wrong direction when assembling onto the bike. It's hard to trace in a photo, but often these are easily fixed as one might fix tangled string, without the need to disconnect the cables. Think Chinese puzzle.

As I advised earlier, it's not critical and can wait to be brought up next time you visit the shop for some kind of tune up. If the shop is a short ride away you might as well go sooner at your convenience. bt, IMO, this is more about OCD than anything mechanical.

rmfnla

And your point is..?

rmfnla

My first though as well...

CliffordK

The factory probably leaves the cables slightly long to help with stem adjustments. Overall the cables don't look too bad, although perhaps the front disc brake cable could be tightened up a bit, however, it is a bit complicated by the routing from left bar to left side of the bike. Usually it goes from left to right with callipers.

You definately don't want short cables interfering with the steering.

My biggest issue....

It looks like all the cables exit out of the front of the bars. Is that the new style?
All of mine exit out of the back of the bars, and naturally make a winged effect for improved hand comfort. The cable in front of the bars just looks awkward for gripping.

If you are lucky, you can often re-tape your tape, especially if it is rather new, without needing to replace. However, bar tape is relatively inexpensive too, and the factory tape is likely CHEAP.

jdotconnor

I simply massaged the cables so they both exit the handlebar tape at the same area so they are comfortable when climbing. All in all this is a minor thing that I shouldn't worry too much about. Mechanically the bike is working good so as some others have mentioned I will just wait until something needs adjusted that I cant do or just maintenance to see if something can be done.
Thanks everyone for your help!

FBinNY 

Smart move. Problem solved at no expense or effort. Often the simplest solution is the right one.