carpediemracing 

Is the spider battery dying? Weird power number readings or none at all? Wired? Wireless? What kind of crankarm?

gsteinb

wireless. DA 7800.

numbers come and go. it'll be fine then the power will drop out for a minute. speedo will work. power will come back, but then occasionally the speedo will drop. Then both might drop. Then, all fine again.

ridethecliche

Solar flare?

carpediemracing 

I don't know the wireless but using basic troubleshooting -

Speed pick up is separate from power pick up. I don't know but I am guessing that cadence is broadcast from same thing as power? If cadence is dropping when power drops then it may be the broadcaster in the crank, i.e. battery. Would also explain bizarre power readings, like when I averaged 2000 watts for a ride.

I'm guessing you replaced the speed sensor battery.

If one or both drops then the head unit is the only common thing. Could be the battery there, or damage.

Try putting the PC7 near the cranks, see if the range is an issue (which would imply battery strength).

The other thing is if you have some more stuff broadcasting in the immediate area, like when I tried to use Ant+ Sport as well as a Polar link-whatever I got neither.

After that I got nothing. Send it to CO.

waterrockets 

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wanders

johnybutts

Focus for the evening: cover letters and resumes. Feeling like I'm making progress. Need a career change ASAP.

ridethecliche

Good luck man.

I finished making a template for clinical research/coordinator positions. Going to sleep on it, then edit in the morning and send out tons of stuff tomorrow.

echappist

is this indoors only or both indoors and out?

it seems that any other 2.4GHz signal (such that from as wireless router) can interrupt the transmission

gsteinb

It happened yesterday for the first time. It was indoors, though nothing indoors has ever interfered with it before.

saratoga

Got word yesterday that the local training crit is on in a couple of weeks because Magnus B. and a couple of the Team UK Youth guys will be in town again.

topflightpro

So I am toying with the idea of buying some Reynolds 46 carbon tubulars.

I already have a set of old Zipp 404 tubulars (pre-dimple Zipps) that are in pretty good shape, but the Reynolds are being closed out a 50 percent off.

Is there really any point to getting the Reynolds if I already have the Zipps?

big john

I like this century coming up Saturday mostly because of the food and the people but this time it sold out in a couple hours. I wrote to them and they let me in.
It's 10K feet of climbing and it might rain. I guess I can wuss out and turn back early, I seem to be doing that more lately.

johnybutts

I'm at the point that less is more. Buy the reynolds, sell the zipps.

Creatre

If you are buying reynolds, I would just buy some carbon tubulars direct from china. I personally think Reynolds doesn't do anything too special for the extra $$. That way if you crash or something happens to them you aren't out a bunch of $$ either.

echappist

+1

Fyi, the HED patent has expired, which is why you are seeing Neuvation coming out with the wide, toroidal rims

carpediemracing 

Reynolds really engineers their rims. I may have had too much Kool Aid but I think this is true. I knew one of their engineers - he loved testing the various carbon clinchers (at the time) because he could destroy $1800 wheels simply by inflating a tire up to 150 psi. The Reynolds, which I bought (DV46c) held until the bead blew off the rim at 250 psi or something like that.

I also know a guy that worked with them a bit more recently. He shared some stuff about the company with me (and he got a set of wheels for himself). They have access to top level resins and carbon which is technically illegal to export from the US. Their main business is military; the guy that runs the US side of things is a cyclist so he started making rims. As he pointed out he's been riding his own carbon products for 20 years and he wouldn't be doing that if they didn't work or if he didn't trust them.

Historically they have higher tension than many wheels out there, end up being a stiffer wheel. Feels much more responsive. Whether it is or not I don't know, but it sings under you. This is from experience owning the DV46 clinchers and tubulars. Also, at about 180-190 lbs, I broke a front spoke (on a 16 spoke wheel) in a race and still completed the race, dealing with a reasonably fast downhill (prospect park, just under 50 mph top speed), and sprinting to 7th I think.

Having said all that I think that they missed the boat with crosswind handling, i.e. the wider, rounded off rim profile. I felt uncomfortable at 50 mph on my DV46 clinchers in a tuck on a straight in gusty winds.

Eventually I moved away from Reynolds. I wanted a wider rim, a taller 60+ mm rim, and I was willing to buy a whole new set of wheels to do so. I lent out my tubulars (2 years ago), sold my clinchers, and bought a slew of HED wheels. I chose HED because a friend of mine had vetted the Taiwan factory where they make the rims and declared the place "good". If it's good enough for him then it's good enough for me. He's a former teammate, former co-worker, friend, and he happens to be a quality control engineer based in Taiwan that works for a major US bike company. Plus I trust Steve Hed, just because.

The HEDs are definitely more flexible than the Reynolds, more of a spongy feel, and the rims feel less substantial. However they have exposed spoke nipples. It's convenient although I have to admit that other than replacing spokes twice (when I break a spoke I relace the whole wheel - I broke a spoke in a front tubular and rear clincher) I didn't true my Reynolds wheels for 5 years. The HED Stinger 6s needed truing within 6 rides, although basically I've done only coarse truing and left it alone otherwise.

If you decide to go Reynolds then I'd go whole hog - get the 46s, fine, but also get the 66mm rear wheel, maybe the 66mm front. The 46s are light, wind up really well, but feel limited in speed compared to, say, the Stinger 6 (I've raced both as a front wheel, borrowing back my DV46 tubular when I had a problem with my Stinger 6 front). A current teammate has just the 66s and he uses them in all the crits, even the windy ones.

hammy56

Im sold on Reynolds.
I have the 66mm clinchers. Raced them plenty and ride them every day. I bought them used on ebay 2 years ago and havent touched them. You can find great deals on "lightly used" sets on ebay.

gsteinb

no issues with the SRM today. My buddy is mailing me one of his heads to play with. It could be that the battery was low I suppose.

jsutkeepspining

i mean your's dont even have any marks on the brake track.

hammy56

if I lived somewhere where I did some climbing/descending (8 more weeks and i will ) the braking surface would obviously have more wear...but they've never needed truing and the bearings are still smooth. Im guessing theres 15-20k miles on them.

carpediemracing 

I peeked at Reynolds's site. They're going wide now. They seem to be keeping some of the narrow rims too. Finally they introduced an 81 mm narrow rim, so along the 46/66 family.

hammy56

a good read. And one of many reasons Im so looking forward to moving-
https://velonews.competitor.com/2012/...p-up-up_266521

johnybutts

I can still dream of living in a place such as that. I need to find some biotech companies in CO...

jsutkeepspining

yippie i'll be back in like 4 weeks, so i can go abck to bugging you!