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Any insights on the strongest bike chain available?

Old 08-25-13, 03:47 PM
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NABRXX
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Any insights on the strongest bike chain available?

As a daily commuter for about 4 years now (30+ miles a day) I pride myself on being prepared for nearly anything that can go wrong with the bike. I travel with cables, tubes, lube, tools...Now it looks like I may have to begin carrying a spare chain. I broke my first one about a year ago and chalked it up to 3 years of neglect. I just broke the one I replaced it with yesterday while in the middle of a steep climb. Does Anyone have any insights as to the strongest ( weight is not an issue) chain I can get so this doesn't happen again any time soon? I ride a specialized Allez triple..
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Old 08-25-13, 07:37 PM
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Three years at that mileage is too long for any chain! If what you're saying is true, you probably put ~7500 miles on that chain. I would say the original chain simply failed from wear, and in the process damaged your cassette. That worn cassette probably accelerated the damage on your new chain, and pow.

If you've changed the cassette since, then it was probably just a fluke. Stuff happens. You also don't need to carry a whole chain. Carry a chain tool and a link and you'll be good till you can at least get home.
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Old 08-25-13, 07:40 PM
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Do you have a chain tool on your bike ?
You can also drop one link, most of the time, w/o ill effect.......or do it anyway and don't run your derailleurs at full capacity....
I.e., big chainring, big cog on your cassette......

Or you can install a quick link/master link......SRAM 870 is plenty strong and comes with a quick link......

I have broken many chains on my utility/trailer bike and more on pedicabs.
Usually can drop a link, put the pin back in, and get home.....
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Old 08-25-13, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by KBentley57
Three years at that mileage is too long for any chain! If what you're saying is true, you probably put ~7500 miles on that chain. I would say the original chain simply failed from wear, and in the process damaged your cassette. That worn cassette probably accelerated the damage on your new chain, and pow.

If you've changed the cassette since, then it was probably just a fluke. Stuff happens. You also don't need to carry a whole chain. Carry a chain tool and a link and you'll be good till you can at least get home.
+1

all chains are rated for 3000lbs tensile strength. Your not going to push harder than that no matter who you are. I looked into this because I am a clyde and have broken a few chains. Eventually came to the conclusion that a chain will break because its old, not because it needed to be stronger. Its like oil in your car, every 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first. Or, replace the chain the way my dad replaced his oil, every spring and fall. At the very least, every spring as winter is very hard on chains.
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Old 08-25-13, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by H.S.Clydesdale
+1

all chains are rated for 3000lbs tensile strength. Your not going to push harder than that no matter who you are. I looked into this because I am a clyde and have broken a few chains. Eventually came to the conclusion that a chain will break because its old, not because it needed to be stronger. Its like oil in your car, every 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first. Or, replace the chain the way my dad replaced his oil, every spring and fall. At the very least, every spring as winter is very hard on chains.
Actually i can notice the chain getting loose after climbing just one stiff hill which doesn't happen all the time. I ride an IGH bike so it is easy to notice because of the lack of tensioning device on it.

I don't know about the strongest chain available but those made for single speed or IGH' s bike are usually wider than those on bikes with derailleur

Last edited by erig007; 08-25-13 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 08-25-13, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by erig007
Actually i can notice the chain getting loose after climbing just one stiff hill which doesn't happen all the time. I ride an IGH bike so it is easy to notice because of the lack of tensioning device on it.

I don't know about the strongest chain available but those made for single speed or IGH' s bike are usually wider than those on bikes with derailleur
I know what you mean. I pedaled an IGH for a couple years as well and was very aware of chain stretch. I could be wrong, but in my research, I dont recall the IGH/single speed chains being significantly stronger despite the added width. Maybe a bit, like 3500lbs vs. 3000lbs. I bought a Wippermann 7R8, because it was the strongest chain I could find. What it was, was heavy. I later switched to just a standard SRAM 7-8-9 speed chain. The drivetrain was smoother and lighter. I think its all just about chain changing. They are not particularly expensive, so if you ride a lot, I think its best to just buy two to four chains a year.
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Old 08-25-13, 09:39 PM
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30 miles a day, 5 days a week, 52 weeks a year, that's 7800 miles a year. 3 years, that's 23,400 miles. That chain lasted a long time. If you didn't change the chainrings and cassette when you put on the new chain it's no wonder it broke.
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Old 08-25-13, 09:47 PM
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I don't think the OP is complaining about the one he or she broke after 3 years. It's the replacement one that broke after just a year of use that is at issue. I'm wondering if it was just a defective one. Maybe try a different brand or model this time. Also, the suggestion to carry a chain tool and quick link is great.
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Old 08-25-13, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by H.S.Clydesdale
+1

all chains are rated for 3000lbs tensile strength. Your not going to push harder than that no matter who you are. I looked into this because I am a clyde and have broken a few chains. Eventually came to the conclusion that a chain will break because its old, not because it needed to be stronger. Its like oil in your car, every 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first. Or, replace the chain the way my dad replaced his oil, every spring and fall. At the very least, every spring as winter is very hard on chains.
The hole in your thesis here is that EVERY 9-speed chain I've ever owned has snapped in the first month; I fix it (I don't use master links), and up until this last one, they would last until I replaced them 2 years later. The one I'm running now just blew out on the way to my daughter's high school, and while it's holding together (again), I'm ordering a new one this week.

Over the winter, I'll be 'going retro', and going back to 8-speed. ONE 8-speed CHAIN BROKEN -- period. Counting 2 breaks on the present niner, that's four breaks in 6-1/2 years.
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Old 08-25-13, 10:07 PM
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Consider your technique?

When are you demanding the chain be pushed off 1 cog/chainring onto another.. ?
are you letting up on pedaling force, spinning lightly for that moment?

But..
Strongest chains are not what derailleur bikes use , they are Track Bike Chains ,
or single speed /IGH chains ..

Full bushing in inner link , under the roller + the Pins stick up proud above the side plates

+ they are not flexed sideways in derailing, to change gears.


That is your strongest chain ..







...

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-26-18 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 08-25-13, 10:44 PM
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Thanks all, I will be carrying my chain tool and spare links. Will also be paying more attention to the drive system in general, sprockets as well as chain cleanliness...and my cassette is a 9 speed, and this chain lasted one year. Thanks all!!
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Old 10-22-18, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Strongest chains are not what derailleur bikes use , they are Track Bike Chains , or single speed /IGH chains ..

Full bushing in inner link , under the roller + the Pins stick up proud above the side plates

+ they are not flexed sideways in derailing, to change gears.
Looking for a chain that is going on a cog remover. Is a moped chain better than the above?
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Old 10-23-18, 01:51 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Strongest chains are not what derailleur bikes use , they are Track Bike Chains , or single speed /IGH chains ..

Full bushing in inner link , under the roller + the Pins stick up proud above the side plates

+ they are not flexed sideways in derailing, to change gears.
Old 2x5 speed bikes had similar chains. I suppose if chainstays are not too short, and if using a triple cranks minding chainline and shifting, one could still use a similar chain, at least for 6-8 speed bikes. But I don't think such chains are built nowadays, at least not for a reasonable price (correct me if I'm wrong).

As for chains breaking, they break for the following reasons (if two or more are combined, even worse), again, correct me if I'm wrong, it's just my "post-mortem" analysis of the breaks I've had, or whitnessed:

- strong pedalling (climbing, starting a sprint etc) seems to be the needed ingredient for most scenarios, combined with one, or more of the following
- (front) shifting under load (can put them at an awkward angle)
- not lubricated (lubricant washed off etc)
- riding severely cross chained with a dry (unlubricated chain), under great load
- worn chain - the more worn it gets, the more it is likely to break, even if it gets worn along with the cassette, so it doesn't skip
- poorly assembled (connected when mounting)
- gremlins - whenever you can't determine a problem cause, or find someone to blame
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Old 10-23-18, 02:01 AM
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FGSS 4 Lyfe my man.
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Old 10-23-18, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by acidfast7
FGSS 4 Lyfe my man.
Also, mine is ready to snap when I really get on it but I want to get maximal use out of it.
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Old 10-23-18, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by acidfast7
FGSS 4 Lyfe my man.
"...No brakes..."
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Old 10-23-18, 03:41 AM
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Most of the time when a chain breaks is because of user error and neglect. Some people don't know how to shift correctly especially when going uphill...Personally I ride FG/SS and never broke a chain and I use very cheap 1/8th chains.
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Old 10-23-18, 07:28 AM
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Thart there is a monster zombeye...
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Old 10-25-18, 01:10 PM
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You need better chain maintenance, not a stronger chain. Get in the habit of cleaning and lubing your chain. Buying a chain wear checker (usually for less than $10) is also handy.

If you are short on time, you can get chain lube in a spray can. I can wipe down my chain, lube it and remove the excess lube in about 2 minutes with a rag and spray lube.


edit: for entertainment value, here is a video of a track sprinter vs a road cyclist. The track sprinter really does need a stronger chain at the 10 minute mark.


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Old 10-26-18, 01:05 PM
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Maintienance and a chain stretch tool (and ability to fix a chain). Those are key.

@SactoDoug - thanks for the entertainment!!!

Yeah, we (track junkies) put a butt load of torque down (and at high rpm) in a short amount of time. 2000+ watts is serious power!
(well, doing a standing start at 90 gear inches needs TORQUE!) 209 rpm was impressive too!

But we don't use small cogs & we use beefy chains (1/8"). Most problems I see are with ripping cleats off of pedals or torquing the wheel out of the dropout. With good maintenance, chain isn't the issue.
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Old 10-26-18, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DX-MAN
The hole in your thesis here is that EVERY 9-speed chain I've ever owned has snapped in the first month;I fix it (I don't use master links), and up until this last one, they would last until I replaced them 2 years later. The one I'm running now just blew out on the way to my daughter's high school, and while it's holding together (again), I'm ordering a new one this week.

Over the winter, I'll be 'going retro', and going back to 8-speed. ONE 8-speed CHAIN BROKEN -- period. Counting 2 breaks on the present niner, that's four breaks in 6-1/2 years.
I see several things going on here. 1) 8-speed chains have pins that protrude slightly and can be riveted and re0rivited sucessfully, 9-speed and above have pins that come even with the outer sideplate and are peened in place. When you remove an 8-speed pin, you are just forcing out a press fit like a headset cup) Press back in and you are good, When you drive out a 9-speed pin, you force the peened "cap" of the pin though the hole in the plate, enlarging the hole permanently. The re-drive (or new) pin will have a sloppy fit. Chain breaking in a month? No surprise. With 9-speed and above, you have to use the couplers. You cannot re-drive pins.

Your first chain lasted until long past "dead". Commuting 30 miles a day for 3 years? 30 X (5) days/week X 50 weeks/year X (3) years = 22,5000 miles. Whoa! You should be checking chain stretch and changing chains far more often (3-7,000 miles). With a good tape measure or ruler 12 pairs of links with the chain pulled tight (no force required, just no play.). At 1/16" inch over 12", take the chain off and put on a new one. Once you have several chains at 1/16" stretch, you can start re-using them until the chains hit 3/32". Then it is time for a new cassette. Maybe new chainrings. (Old teeth will accelerate the stretching of chains as only the first tooth is fully bearing on the new chain with its closer spacing between pins than the warn teeth of the chainring or cog.)

Edit: missed the zombie!

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Old 10-28-18, 02:13 PM
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+1 all the advice here. But if you really want the best derailleur chain go find a Rohloff SLT. They are absurdly expensive if you can even find one, and you would be limited to 9spd at the most I think. I don't believe they ever made a 10spd or anything after 8/9spd.

I still have one that outlasted several bike builds, barely measures any stretch at all. Never even properly peened the joining pin with a Rohloff chain tool and had zero issues, despite breaking it about a dozen times.
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Old 10-28-18, 08:59 PM
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Ebike chain?

How about an ebike chain? Aren’t they supposed to be built stronger to reduce stretch overtime due to the extra torque an ebike motor provides?
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Old 10-29-18, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by wesmamyke
+1 all the advice here. But if you really want the best derailleur chain go find a Rohloff SLT. They are absurdly expensive if you can even find one, and you would be limited to 9spd at the most I think. I don't believe they ever made a 10spd or anything after 8/9spd.

I still have one that outlasted several bike builds, barely measures any stretch at all. Never even properly peened the joining pin with a Rohloff chain tool and had zero issues, despite breaking it about a dozen times.
Seaside is nice but I do miss living around the corner from these guys ... very German ..

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Old 10-31-18, 01:47 PM
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Herr Rohloff supplied the chains for Campagnolo for a while,
then Tulio's Descendants, etc, running the company
invested in their own production equipment, and got supply done inhouse..
maybe in Romania, where they went to lower costs, for many parts..
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