Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Wheel Parts Sources & Ordering

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Wheel Parts Sources & Ordering

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-23-20, 07:02 AM
  #1  
Cmichini
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: North Carolina, USA, Earth
Posts: 32

Bikes: 1998 Specialized Crossroad Sport Hybrid, 1998 Trek 800 MTB

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Wheel Parts Sources & Ordering

Hi BF:
Another wrenching newbie question
I'm overhauling the wheels on a couple of late 90's Trek Craigslist bikes (700 & 800) I bought super cheap to fix up.
Right now, I'm working on cleaning up the wheel hubs, bearings, etc.

This is the first area where I think I need a few parts, so wanted to get some info for ordering & recommendations for good suppliers.

First patient is 700 front wheel - It's a Shimano hub (not sure specifics) that has a cone fitting a 13mm wrench took it apart, and found:
  • QR skewer (correct term?) has no spring, and I've seen others that do. I assume it's advisable to replace?
  • Lock nut surfaces look pretty flattened. They were holding, but should I replace?
    I haven't checked if the axle rolls pretty true, but if it doesn't it could need replacement.
  • Bearings are shiny (look to be 3/16", 10 on each side), so I guess they can be reused. Advice on whether I should just replace (they're not terribly expensive I believe)?
  • One cone has lots of pitting on the bearing surfaces. The other has the start of pitting in one section.
So, I at least need a new cone (I'd lean toward replacing both), possibly lock nuts, bearings and a spring for the QR.
I've done some searching but by Google-Fu for bike parts isn't yet well honed.

So some questions:
Who are the popular, respected parts suppliers (I've seen Jenson, Performance, etc.)?
Any suggestions on how to search/find correct parts and/or resources to help me get my bearings (pun intended) on nomenclature so I can find/order the right stuff?

Thanks for everyone's assistance and insight!
Cmichini is offline  
Old 11-23-20, 10:18 AM
  #2  
sch
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Mountain Brook. AL
Posts: 4,002
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 303 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 136 Times in 104 Posts
The springs are primarily to center the QR relative to the hub so as to facilitate replacing the wheel in the frame. So useful only
for the few seconds needed then. This site is useful for cones:
https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-cones.html

Loose screws used to be good for stuff like this but not any more. Amazon has an amazing variety of stuff but you really
need to know what you want and sometimes there is not enough info on amazon to make a decision. A Shimano hub should
simplify the search. Check the LBS, if available, for the QR spring and lock nuts out of their discard box.
sch is offline  
Old 11-23-20, 10:38 AM
  #3  
Cmichini
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: North Carolina, USA, Earth
Posts: 32

Bikes: 1998 Specialized Crossroad Sport Hybrid, 1998 Trek 800 MTB

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by sch
The springs are primarily to center the QR relative to the hub so as to facilitate replacing the wheel in the frame. So useful only
for the few seconds needed then. This site is useful for cones:
https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-cones.html

Loose screws used to be good for stuff like this but not any more. Amazon has an amazing variety of stuff but you really
need to know what you want and sometimes there is not enough info on amazon to make a decision. A Shimano hub should
simplify the search. Check the LBS, if available, for the QR spring and lock nuts out of their discard box.
Thanks a bunch. I just got some digital calipers with MM - I already had a dial caliper for ammo reloading but it wasn't metric. So I'll check my sizes and also swing by the LBS - I have 2 within a 2 mile radius - and a local co-op.
Cmichini is offline  
Old 11-23-20, 04:46 PM
  #4  
zacster
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Brooklyn NY
Posts: 7,726

Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 464 Times in 365 Posts
Save yourself the aggravation and get a new hub. I bought a Trek 7000 from 1990 on ebay a few years ago and everything on it was crudded up. I repacked the hubs and bottom bracket but the hubs were just too far gone to bother with and I built new wheels with all new parts. Along with everything else I did it felt like a new bike when I was done. This was 6 years ago and I took that bike for a 2 20 mile spins last week, no issues whatsoever and I haven't touched it since I built it except tires and tubes, and brake pads. It was my regular commuting bike for those years except I retired last year.

I must have done something right though, the original crank is still on it and never had another problem after I repacked it that first time, so maybe sometimes it is worth doing.
zacster is online now  
Old 11-23-20, 10:27 PM
  #5  
Russ Roth
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: South Shore of Long Island
Posts: 2,799

Bikes: 2010 Carrera Volans, 2015 C-Dale Trail 2sl, 2017 Raleigh Rush Hour, 2017 Blue Proseccio, 1992 Giant Perigee, 80s Gitane Rallye Tandem

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 1,022 Times in 722 Posts
Originally Posted by zacster
Save yourself the aggravation and get a new hub. I bought a Trek 7000 from 1990 on ebay a few years ago and everything on it was crudded up. I repacked the hubs and bottom bracket but the hubs were just too far gone to bother with and I built new wheels with all new parts. Along with everything else I did it felt like a new bike when I was done.
Probably the best advice. Those are cheap wheels and wheels manufacturing makes really nice stuff that can be pricy for a cheap wheel. Pitted cones often equal pitted races, in which case new bearings, grease and cones are a bandaid. Randombikeparts can probably set you up with similar quality wheels for the same price.
Russ Roth is offline  
Old 11-24-20, 11:20 AM
  #6  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,805

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times in 1,323 Posts
Everything depends on what you plan to do with the bikes. If you are going to flip them, then you need some donor parts from another bike or find a co-op and see what you can get. Even if you are going to keep them, that is not a bad idea.

You need to identify what you have. You can find vintage Trek catalogs online. Look up your models and what year they match and get an idea on the components. Retrobike has copies of Shimano catalogs. As an example a 1998 Trek 800 uses Altus hubs and they are identified as RM-40. There is a lookup chart on Wheels Mfg and they have cone CN-R036 for an HB-RM40 for $10 each. Is that the right cone for you? Who knows. I don't know exactly what bike you have and just did a quick and dirty lookup. As already mentioned, you need to see what the races look like to determine if it is worth replacing the cones. But that is how it works.

It wasn't that long ago where you could find almost any older parts on eBay relatively cheap, except for certain parts that were highly sought after. For years I would use eBay pics to determine what components I had. It was even better than Velobase. Since the pandemic, parts have almost entirely dried up and even parts I consider to be beat up are selling for way more. It seems everyone is fixing up old bikes because new ones aren't available or they are just looking for a cheap option for a bike.

There is another option and that is measuring the existing cones with digital calipers and try to determine what you can get to work. I've never tried the close enough route for bearing surfaces, but it is possible especially if you don't care about hub seals.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 11-24-20, 12:17 PM
  #7  
Cmichini
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: North Carolina, USA, Earth
Posts: 32

Bikes: 1998 Specialized Crossroad Sport Hybrid, 1998 Trek 800 MTB

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by 70sSanO
Everything depends on what you plan to do with the bikes. If you are going to flip them, then you need some donor parts from another bike or find a co-op and see what you can get. Even if you are going to keep them, that is not a bad idea.

You need to identify what you have. You can find vintage Trek catalogs online. Look up your models and what year they match and get an idea on the components. Retrobike has copies of Shimano catalogs. As an example a 1998 Trek 800 uses Altus hubs and they are identified as RM-40. There is a lookup chart on Wheels Mfg and they have cone CN-R036 for an HB-RM40 for $10 each. Is that the right cone for you? Who knows. I don't know exactly what bike you have and just did a quick and dirty lookup. As already mentioned, you need to see what the races look like to determine if it is worth replacing the cones. But that is how it works.

It wasn't that long ago where you could find almost any older parts on eBay relatively cheap, except for certain parts that were highly sought after. For years I would use eBay pics to determine what components I had. It was even better than Velobase. Since the pandemic, parts have almost entirely dried up and even parts I consider to be beat up are selling for way more. It seems everyone is fixing up old bikes because new ones aren't available or they are just looking for a cheap option for a bike.

There is another option and that is measuring the existing cones with digital calipers and try to determine what you can get to work. I've never tried the close enough route for bearing surfaces, but it is possible especially if you don't care about hub seals.

John
Thanks to all for the informative and productive info.

The 800 I think will become a commuter bike if I ever go back to the office, and act as a back up for when I feel confident enough to take a wrench to my primary bike, and loaner for friends.
The 700 has some seat tube issues, but I'm investing the time cleaning & tuning parts on it for the educational benefit and to build up some spare parts if it doesn't make it back on the road.

If I rebuilt the wheels, that may be an advanced wrenching exercise - still being kind of new, so that may be down the road. Not sure about working with spokes yet. lol

I did use my calipers to see what I have - diameter is 14.98mm (15mm). length is approx 12.4mm, and I was contemplating just getting some 'close enough' cones to go through.
Wheels Mfg. has a couple that are close (a few 15.0x12.8 - I'd have to research the difference before considering buying), so I'll consider that while furthering my research and education.

I did look at the specs in the Trek catalog to get an idea of some of the components. I'll go back and document the specifics, check the Shimano documentation etc., to get more schooled on what I have and my options.

It's like learning a new language.

Thanks again to all I'll provide some updates as I get my head wrapped around it all, and read up.
Cmichini is offline  
Old 11-24-20, 02:00 PM
  #8  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,805

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times in 1,323 Posts
Originally Posted by Cmichini
I did use my calipers to see what I have - diameter is 14.98mm (15mm). length is approx 12.4mm, and I was contemplating just getting some 'close enough' cones to go through.
Wheels Mfg. has a couple that are close (a few 15.0x12.8 - I'd have to research the difference before considering buying), so I'll consider that while furthering my research and education.
The Wheels site has a hub lookup to cone chart. I don't know if you took a look at that.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 11-25-20, 07:01 AM
  #9  
Cmichini
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: North Carolina, USA, Earth
Posts: 32

Bikes: 1998 Specialized Crossroad Sport Hybrid, 1998 Trek 800 MTB

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by 70sSanO
The Wheels site has a hub lookup to cone chart. I don't know if you took a look at that.

John
I hadn't seen the look up chart.
I'll be doing more data gathering (and documenting) and research, but that look up chart is probably the key (or one of them) to figuring this out.

Again, much obliged for the input & helpful/patient responses for a newb.
Cmichini is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.