rclouviere

I bought a used emonda H1 fit and built it up as a lightweight climber. The fit’s aggressive. Any suggestions on making it more “relaxed.” Can spacers be added?

GlennR

Was the steerer cut? If not you can add spacers if there's room.

cxwrench

You've not posted any photos nor described the current spacer/stem/steerer set up...how on earth can anyone answer your question. You should have known the H1 would be a pretty aggressive fit before you bought the bike.

ETA: No, no spacers can be 'added'. If there are spacers above the stem you can put them below it. That's all you can do aside from getting a stem w/ more rise.

GlennR

Agreed... buying a bike and trying to make it fit is a bad idea.

5 years ago I wanted a second bike for riding in the winter. I found $2600 bike that was brand new for $1200... only problem was it was a 58 and I ride a 56. I thought I could make it work.... I couldn't. Luckily i was able to sell it for $1300 and then bought a new bike that fits and I love.

Cyclist0108

You can add spacers, and also get a stem with a larger angle, effectively increasing the stack.

cxwrench

Please, explain how he can add spacers. I'm all ears.

Cyclist0108

He can subtract them from above the stem, and add them to the bottom, below the stem, in such a way that the net number of spacers is conserved.

Happy now?

rclouviere

yeah, you’re right here’s some pics. I did know it was aggressive, but thought, since I’ve been riding a TT bike regularly, it’s be ok. Hoping if i get a shorter stem, it’ll help. I feel fine on the drops, just not on the hoods for long. Too stretched out.

cxwrench

That makes more sense. You can't 'add' spacers to an already full stack and you can't ride a bike any other way so that's my point. You can 'swap' them from above the stem to below them if there are some above the stem. Saying you can 'add' them is confusing to someone who already doesn't know what they're doing. Don't turn it into a maths problem, just explain accurately.
ETA: For the OP...you obviously don't have any spacers above the stem so that's as high as it can go. You could turn it upside down and get a bit more height. When we're talking about a specific part of the bike it does no good to post pics from random angles and of the entire bike. Just concentrate on the area we're concerned with.

Cyclist0108

Thanks for the pictures. No spacers can be added, because they are currently below the stem. However, that stem appears to have a 0° rise, and you can replace it with one with 7° or even greater rise. Be sure to compensate so that you maintain (or attain) the optimal reach (assuming it is optimal now, which it probably is not).

Cyclist0108

OK, I admit, with the photos now available, you were correct.

cxwrench

It doesn't matter what the OP's set up looks like. You can not ADD spacers to a threadless steerer. You can only move them around. Saying 'add' makes it sound like you can put more in the stack which obviously can't be done.

Cyclist0108

I agree it would have been better (and less ambiguous) had I said "you can move spacers from above to below the stem." (Having said that, I thought with a carbon steering tube, you are supposed to have at least one spacer above the stem).


Believe it or not, the main point I was originally trying to make is that he could get a stem with a steeper angle. (But looking at how the bike is set up, I would be more concerned that it is too small.)


You forgot to say "This should be in the Bicycle Fitting subforum."

cxwrench

That XXX stem is 7*, it's the only way you can get it. OP could flip it upside down or even get a 17* or greater stem and use it upside down. To answer your question from the other post about Trek wanting a 5mm spacer above the stem...yes, they do. I think they're the only major manufacturer that wants that. I have set up many, many bikes w/o it and never had a problem. I think it's a safeguard for people that are less than accurate when it comes to cutting steerer tubes. If done correctly there is absolutely no need for it.
And with that, I'm off to go fishing.

rclouviere

Thanks for the response; however, you’re pretty grumpy. If i knew more, like you, i wouldn’t need to ask for help.

rclouviere

good advice. I looked at the bontrager pro stems and there’s more options. I’m having a fit later this week. I’m thinking i may need a shorter stem and can do as you suggest, increase the angle. .

rclouviere

thanks for the help.

Cyclist0108

He is a Trek mechanic. It's a grumpy profession (like science -- which accounts for my cheerful and engaging disposition).

GlennR

If you knew more you might not of bought a bike that doesn't fit.

I hope you got it cheap and that's why you bought it without researching the fit.

rclouviere

I’m not dissatisfied with it, just wanting it to be as comfortable as possible. And, i did research it and got it cheap.

2019 SLR. Got it custom painted, xxx 2 wheels (also used), xxx bars, stem, dura ace components, and carbon saddle. Total cost around $4,500. Not sorry.

GlennR

Yes, that is cheap, but if you're uncomfortable you'll not ride it much. BTW I see mechanical groupset and rim brakes.

My 2015 Emonda SLR has 26,000 miles, its a H2 with 15mm spacer under the 110mm stem.

cxwrench

You can also juggle bars w/ different reach as well as the stem, I'm sure your fitting person knows about this.

Not any more, I'm much less grumpy after getting out from under the Trek corporate shadow.

Cyclist0108

Sorry/congratulations.

Dancing Skeleton

This brings to question, "Is it possible to make a bike fit if the frame size is different than what I had or normally ride?"

I'm wondering this myself, in regards to a Trek Domane.
My 2013 Six Series 52 cm is damaged, and I need a replacement.
I can get a smoking deal on a 50 cm frame, 52's are very hard to find.
By researching stack/reach numbers from both a 50 cm & 52 cm frame, I can do this.
Stack on the 50 is 15mm lower, that can be adjusted with spacers, I currently have a 5mm below the stem on the 52, it'll be two-10 mm spacers on the 50.
Reach on the 50 3mm shorter, I'll barely notice, or I can change stems.
The seat tube C-T is 25 mm shorter, but the long seat mast cap will be well within spec. I currently use the short version.

So, will this 50 cm frame fit?

Thoughts?

Should I make a new thread to discuss this?

Thanks

GlennR

I would.