gravelocity

I've figured out that I need to unscrew something, but am not sure what yet. I tried loosening the bolt in the middle-top of the stem to see if anything happened, but nothing did. I wasn't willing to keep turning it, in case something went wrong. My only other guess is that the hexagonal thing around the stem needs loosening? What tool(s) would I need for that? Sorry, I know almost nothing about bikes yet. I'm a beginner. And sorry I can't include pictures to make it more clear what I'm talking about, but new accounts aren't allowed to.

tyrion

There's a line on the stem that marks the most you can raise it - too high and it's dangerously weak.

edit: on second reading, it sounds like you loosened the correct bolt but your stem is stuck.

Trakhak

Once you've followed the instructions in the videos posted above, look for the minimum insertion line on the stem, and don't raise the stem beyond that line. (You may find that the stem is already at the maximum allowable height; if so, you'll have to get a taller stem or higher handlebar or both.)

VegasTriker

If your Schwinn is one of the vintage Schwinns made up until 1983 then this picture may be what you have:



You can get a longer quill stem on eBay for $21. To install it on the handlebars you need to remove the bars by removing the grip on one side and then releasing the bars at the stem. Slide the bar through the stem and then take the stem out of the frame. Be sure to first loosen the stem with the handlebars in place, re-tighten the stem and remove the bars. That's because if the stem is frozen in place it can be really hard to get it loose with the bars not attached to the stem.
Replacement longer stem https://www.ebay.com/382276400973 This one allows 7.5 inches out of the headset.

gravelocity

Update: I don't know if it was the hammering, adding penetrant or both, but the stem came free. The bike in the above photo looks exactly like mine, except I have a 3-speed with hand brakes. Now that I've set the stem as high as it can go, I do think I'll have to get a taller one to achieve a comfortable riding posture.

Vintage Schwinn

Many of you may already know this important fact, but for the benefit of anyone that might be reading this thread that is not already aware that SCHWINN did use a smaller stem diameter (21.1) on 1966 and later bicycles. THE 1965 and earlier SCHWINN bikes have the common long time American Bicycle Industry "standard" of (22.2).
THESE STEMS WILL NOT INTERCHANGE!!
THE REASON FOR THE CHANGE TO THE NARROWER STEM DIAMETER IN 1966 IS THAT SCHWINN MADE THE HEADTUBE thicker walled & stronger, which Schwinn engineering determined to be STRONGER & to IMPROVE SAFETY, AND THUS MAKING IT THE STRONGEST AND SAFEST BICYCLE FRAME IN THE INDUSTRY!
***** If you have a classic Schwinn, you do have to know this if you are thinking of changing out your stem!*************************
There were MILLIONS of stems made in both sizes, so acquiring a longer-length stem in the diameter that your particular bike will need is EASY and INEXPENSIVE but you'll need to probably look at the FRAME SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION to determine if 1965 & earlier --OR-- if 1966 & Later , IF YOU DON'T ALREADY KNOW FROM WHAT ERA THAT YOUR CLASSIC SCHWINN HAILS FROM. .............yeah, certainly you could do the " ol' IF IT DOESN'T FIT, THEN IT AIN'T IT,...IT'S THE OTHER SIZE" because many people do that..... JUST DON'T BUY A REPLACEMENT STEM UNTIL YOU KNOW FOR CERTAIN.
****** I WILL TELL YOU THIS, Schwinn began placing the SERIAL NUMBER on the HEADTUBE just below the iconic oval Schwinn screw on badge, sometime during the 1970 model year. You'll see something that looks like this for a 1971 bike in this example here: BG642354 (the First Letter = MONTH........Second Letter = YEAR)
So with this BG642354 example, it tells you that it is FEB 1971.
BECAUSE the second letter which is G denotes 1971 and the first letter which is B denotes FEBRUARY.

2nd Letter = YEAR
F=1970
G=1971
H=1972
J=1973
K=1974
L=1975
M=1976
N=1977
P=1978
Q=1979
R=1980
******Okay, you have seen that SCHWINN did not use "eye" and "oh" BECAUSE it looks too much like ONE and ZERO.

E=1969
D=1968
C=1967
B=1966
************From 1965 until sometime during 1970, Schwinn employed this two letter serial numbering system where the 1st Letter=MONTH and 2nd Letter=YEAR*****
The Serial Number Location was located near the rear drop-outs on the bicycle frame prior to early 1970 and at least going back to the early sixties, I think.
Before 1965, there was a different single letter serial numbering system.....GOOGLE: Schwinn serial number decoding, etc... if you wanna know more.
A= 1965 ......meaning that the 2nd letter is an A, as it will have the two letter system.

Obviously now you know this, here is the 1st Letter (MONTH): A=Jan B=Feb C=Mar D=Apr E=May F=Jun G=Jul H=Aug J=Sep K=Oct L=Nov M=Dec

Typically most of the time, folks can determine the era of the bicycle based on visual clues like decal graphics and style of decal and the name that Schwinn employed on these bikes during what particular era.................pedals and seats and fenders and chainguards are often changed and mixed by owners over the years, but unless the bike was repainted and/or re-decalled, one can usually determine if said bike is from the late sixties through the Chicago end -----or----- if it hails from the fifties or forties.
What sometimes is difficult on certain Schwinn models is determining whether from say the 1962-1965 era, ---or--- if from 1966-1969.
Hey, I thought that folks reading this thread now, and for others that might be searching for this thread topic in the future, should know that there are distinctly different stems, though that look identical when installed on the 1965 earlier ---or---1966 later, obviously on those that they are designed to fit.........


Hey, it is fairly typical for you to find that on a very old bicycle that many times the stem will not want to come out (AS IT WAS IN YOUR CASE...).
When after loosening the stem anchor bolt........like you did.....you did everything properly.......... MANY TIMES IN CASES LIKE YOURS, YOU HAVE TO HIT IT.....use a small three inch diameter or so fireplace wood log from your woodpile, or a small scrap of wood and a hammer (place the wood scrap against the chromed steel and then strike the wood scrap with the hammer).....................Don't go all out King-Kong but sometimes you gotta beat it........heck it is tough strong steel on those old Schwinns......the wood will dent way before the steel, and you won't dent, ding or scar anything.....................DON'T TRY THAT ON NON-SCHWINN ROADBIKES WITH ALUMINUM ALLOY STEMS!!!




Lastly, you probably already know that there are not only Taller stems available but you'll find some that place the gooseneck slightly more towards or away from seat(rider). I'm talking about a normal old fashioned stem. Imagine visualizing the number seven 7 , okay the top line when drawing number seven can be longer or shorter, thus if you visualize this top line of the number seven as the 25.4mm clamp section where your handle bars attach to the stem................You get the picture, because if say the topline of the seven is longer or shorter.....that changes the bar placement just a little bit too..... You might have to really hunt and look at many old used from varied brands/models for significant changes there......and there are probably more variants for that type for the 22.2 variety of 1965 earlier Schwinn and typical American industry standard than for the 21.1 of 1966 and later Schwinn. There are millions of stems out there. It is very simple and extremely reliable old school heavy chromed steel stuff that is durable and unbreakable unless you're gonna ride like Evel Knievel off of the 5th story of a parking deck on to the street that is five stories below. There is no reason to attempt to fit something lightweight and more modern. Yes, the modern stuff is beneficial for reducing weight on racing style bicycles for fast street riding. There is no practical reason to do so on a comfort hybrid cruiser or a enjoy the ride upright city slow-riding sight seeing bicycle. You certainly can change things to more modern stuff if you'd like to, but that will not provide you with much in the way of significant improvements, if it provides any improvement. Don't try to keep your bicycle bone stock, because comfort matters...........find what you like as far as the seat, pedals, handlebars, grips, shifter style and shifter location, waterbottle location, bell location, basket location, seat bag, mirror, whatever makes you smile the most when you get out on it and ride.
Schwinn made great bicycles that are among the most durable bicycles ever made. They are comfortable, very stable, and overall they are very fun to ride when you're not needing to maintain an 18 mph pace to keep up with the paceline set by the serious spandex and lycra roadwarriors from the A-group riding from the local bike shop each Wed evening and Sat & Sun afternoons..... Well built, well mannered bikes that are a joy to ride......plus they are just classics unlike any others as nobody built them to last like Schwinn did!

gravelocity

Thank you for the detailed information. I now know that my bike was made in 1977 and that its steerer tube diameter is 21.1mm.

ropetwitch

Whoa! That's so detailed, thanks dude for sharing! Will make this a reference soon.

Shari

Thanks for all the knowledge everyone.