Saved, but now what?
#51
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Thanks a bunch Murry Missile, bike hoarder, for the advice! Very helpful There is a very good coop here and parts a plenty.
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
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Last edited by Nubra; 12-23-19 at 11:57 AM. Reason: added details
#52
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Yep, the old "love/hate" thing. Thanks for support!
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
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#54
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Photos of Santa Cruz, as requested! Wilder on New Years day, beach full of gulls, pelicans, egrets. Waves along the coast.
Wilder Ranch
Birds on Wilder Beach
Wilder Ranch
Birds on Wilder Beach
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
#55
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Low Cost Build of Peugot
Past experience and logic would dictate I tell you to throw it back but I'm going to go against conventional wisdom and tell you to go for it but do it as low buck as possible and just make it functional. Why not? It's all there. Some white vinegar, WD-40 and #0000 steel wool will clean up most of the rust. Once the rust on the frame is removed or at least neutralized get some Rustoleum clear enamel and give it a couple of coats to protect the frame from further corrosion. You'll be amazed how much better even the old paint and decals will look with the clearcoat. In fact I'd give everything else the clearcoat treatment too once it's cleaned up. Watch the classifieds and curb for parts bikes or check out bike co-ops if there are any close by for things like tubes and tires. I'm always amazed at what bikes and bike stuff people throw out to the curb.
Yeah, go for it! It will be a great learning experience. I was given one nearly as bad I was going to junk but now I'm having second thoughts....... I may do what I just suggested to this one just because I can.
Yeah, go for it! It will be a great learning experience. I was given one nearly as bad I was going to junk but now I'm having second thoughts....... I may do what I just suggested to this one just because I can.
Nubra, please include lots of pics of Santa Cruz with shots of the Peugeot.
At times i really miss that place, esp the beginning of a Seattle winter season.
edit: oh yeah, what to do with the bike? Don't rehab it too much. It is, after all, a SantaCruzin street & beach bike, likely inclined toward relapse.
At times i really miss that place, esp the beginning of a Seattle winter season.
edit: oh yeah, what to do with the bike? Don't rehab it too much. It is, after all, a SantaCruzin street & beach bike, likely inclined toward relapse.
That's the spirit! Don't listen to these nattering nabobs of negativism, @Nubra. I don't see anything there I'd toss, apart from the broken FD, rusted out handlebars and those crappy steel rims. Ten or fifteen hours of your time, a couple hundred bucks in parts, and you've got a decent riding bike you could sell for a good 80 bucks or so, It would be an education.
Hello all,
Refurbish has cost me $22 in cleaning supplies, that includes Evapo-rust, appliance touch up Enamel by Rustoleum, couple of steel brushes as well as beer money for some LBS guys remove the Maillard freewheel. Tires, tubes and wheel liners intact. They looked pretty good.
Wrapped frame in rags soaked with Evaporust and wrapped with plastic wrap. Used syringe with blunt needle to puncture wrap to keep rags wet for couple of days. Derusted most of the worse rust down to bare metal. No damage to paint. Note: crank has yet to be soaked in Evaporust.
Touched up bare metal with Rustoleum Appliance white paint. One bottle, $2.95. Just to slow down return of rust. Not pretty, but functional.
Loosened bottom bracket and dripped tenacious oil in to both sides of spindle. Adjusted to no play, smooth. Decided not to attempt pin removal.
Evaporust chain, pedals, chainguard, front derailleur. 8-10 hour soaking. Rinse with water. Will not rebuild pedals, but used tenacious oil dripped in after removing cap. Adjustment is tight on pedals. Chain is excellent, no stretch.
Bare metal under rusted chrome on locknut for stem. All other pieces cleaned up well. 12 hour soak.
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
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#56
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Great start there Nubra , you're on the way now with the clean up and refurb on that Pug mixte. I have to agree with the others about the front and the rear derailleurs, I owned both on my first "10-speed" and Sears-Roebuck/Puch, back in '71, they lasted about a week before they broke. Kurt's suggestion about a Campy Valentino FD is spot on if you want the same design that will shift reasonably well and had up too, had one on my '72 Bottecchia Special and it performed admirably with no hassles at all.
Keep on posting the build [reports and pics please, its whaat most of us live for here.
Bill
Keep on posting the build [reports and pics please, its whaat most of us live for here.
Bill
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Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
#57
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Nice pics of the Coast - with Sun! Thanks.
And super work on the frame and components.
And super work on the frame and components.
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
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I got a Mercier from someone that had been riding around for quite some time with the FD bound up with electrical tape! Shifted like it was supposed to! I might have sold it that way, too!
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#61
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I do love OLD bikes!
Sometimes I'm surprised by responses. If anything, as was stated by garryg, this is a learning project, and a good one.
This can be done cheaply, and still come out decent. It'll just cost time.
Build a bike. Save the bottom bracket, stem and headset if they are still usable. Crankset looks fine from here.
That would make a nice errand bike.
This can be done cheaply, and still come out decent. It'll just cost time.
Build a bike. Save the bottom bracket, stem and headset if they are still usable. Crankset looks fine from here.
That would make a nice errand bike.
95% complete. Could use a better RD, and a saddle, but rides OK. Only thing new are cables, housing and bearing in the headset and wheels.
Rebuilt these shifters and they work great. Just cleaned them up and used silicon grease to keep from degrading the old plastic.
Derusted with evaporust, then touched up the bare metal with Rustoleum appliance paint. Lots of splotches, but will slow down the rust return.
Handlebars are rust pitted but used "Quick-Glow" on them after evaporust. Some bald patches on left upper side, but steers fine even with rusty bars.
Spoke guard cleaned up really nice.
Pedals cleaned up nice too.
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
#62
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Past experience and logic would dictate I tell you to throw it back but I'm going to go against conventional wisdom and tell you to go for it but do it as low buck as possible and just make it functional. Why not? It's all there. Some white vinegar, WD-40 and #0000 steel wool will clean up most of the rust. Once the rust on the frame is removed or at least neutralized get some Rustoleum clear enamel and give it a couple of coats to protect the frame from further corrosion. You'll be amazed how much better even the old paint and decals will look with the clearcoat. In fact I'd give everything else the clearcoat treatment too once it's cleaned up. Watch the classifieds and curb for parts bikes or check out bike co-ops if there are any close by for things like tubes and tires. I'm always amazed at what bikes and bike stuff people throw out to the curb.
Yeah, go for it! It will be a great learning experience. I was given one nearly as bad I was going to junk but now I'm having second thoughts....... I may do what I just suggested to this one just because I can.
Yeah, go for it! It will be a great learning experience. I was given one nearly as bad I was going to junk but now I'm having second thoughts....... I may do what I just suggested to this one just because I can.
Just an FYI, I have pretty much completed the rebuild. It was pretty cheap, about $33.
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
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#65
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__________________
Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
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#66
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From decaying in the weeds to functional rideable bike derusted touch up and built back up nice townie bike. Chaepeau Nubra !
I have used oxyalic acid and naval jelly but based on your results I will have to give evaporust a try.
I have used oxyalic acid and naval jelly but based on your results I will have to give evaporust a try.
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#69
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The Evaporust is a real game changer. Saw it in a comparison of rust removers on Youtube and gave it a try. It is non toxic. You can stick your hand in it and it is non petroleum based water soluble. Especial good for small parts, requires some innovation to use on larger objects.
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Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
Give thanks, for unknown blessings are already on their way.
~Native American Prayer
#70
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Nice job! I admire that you went ahead and fixed it up, despite the discouragement. To my mind, fixing up old bikes most people don't appreciate is always a good thing.
Simplex front derailleurs worked perfectly well BITD, if they were properly set up and adjusted. Most were not. The acetal resin does eventually degrade and most will crack eventually - but remember they are many decades old now. FWIW I don't recall seeing any broken ones until sometime in the 90s.
Simplex front derailleurs worked perfectly well BITD, if they were properly set up and adjusted. Most were not. The acetal resin does eventually degrade and most will crack eventually - but remember they are many decades old now. FWIW I don't recall seeing any broken ones until sometime in the 90s.
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