Giant ToughRoad
#76
Rollin' road block
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: England
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I regret selling these bars on my fat bikes. I paid £30 each, Jones are £100+ but I'd still buy them for the comfort/convenience they provide me.
#77
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Wodonga, Victoria, Australia
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Bikes: Giant Toughroad SLR 1 2019
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I think the honeymoon may be over with my new Toughroad SLR 1 2019. I have owned it since the 13thof October. Since I picked it up I have noticed a hesitation to shift into higher gears from 1 upwards to about 6th gear. It has become gradually worse to this point. Now almost every one of those gear changes requires going up two gears and then back one to get the next sequential gear. E.G. changing from 2 to 3 requires changing from 2 to 3 and immediately changing to 4 where it shifts to 4. Then changing down to 3, which it does correctly. This is with the front large chain ring in use. When using the smaller chain ring, the gears shift ok, not perfectly though with some hesitation. I wondered if the reason might be due to not being adjusted properly but with some cross chasing affect coming into play.
Today though when cleaning the gears and and chain I found that the low gear sprocket at the rear and the large chain wheel at the front had
several teeth which had the tips broken off. Have been putting up with the bad gear changes as the LBS said it should be serviced at 3 months. I think it requires urgent attention in view of the missing bits on the gears and willcontact the shop to see when they can look at it.
Can you offer me any advice as too what I can do about it and to not have it happen again in the future as I am a relative newby?
Today though when cleaning the gears and and chain I found that the low gear sprocket at the rear and the large chain wheel at the front had
several teeth which had the tips broken off. Have been putting up with the bad gear changes as the LBS said it should be serviced at 3 months. I think it requires urgent attention in view of the missing bits on the gears and willcontact the shop to see when they can look at it.
Can you offer me any advice as too what I can do about it and to not have it happen again in the future as I am a relative newby?
Last edited by Glennie; 11-03-18 at 04:22 AM. Reason: Spellin mistakes
#78
Interocitor Command
... a hesitation to shift into higher gears from 1 upwards to about 6th gear. It has become gradually worse to this point. Now almost every one of those gear changes requires going up two gears and then back one to get the next sequential gear. E.G. changing from 2 to 3 requires changing from 2 to 3 and immediately changing to 4 where it shifts to 4. Then changing down to 3, which it does correctly. This is with the front large chain ring in use. When using the smaller chain ring, the gears shift ok, not perfectly though with some hesitation.
#79
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Martinsburg WV Area
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Bikes: State 4130 Custom, Giant Trance 29
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I think the honeymoon may be over with my new Toughroad SLR 1 2019. I have owned it since the 13thof October. Since I picked it up I have noticed a hesitation to shift into higher gears from 1 upwards to about 6th gear. It has become gradually worse to this point. Now almost every one of those gear changes requires going up two gears and then back one to get the next sequential gear. E.G. changing from 2 to 3 requires changing from 2 to 3 and immediately changing to 4 where it shifts to 4. Then changing down to 3, which it does correctly. This is with the front large chain ring in use. When using the smaller chain ring, the gears shift ok, not perfectly though with some hesitation. I wondered if the reason might be due to not being adjusted properly but with some cross chasing affect coming into play.
Today though when cleaning the gears and and chain I found that the low gear sprocket at the rear and the large chain wheel at the front had
several teeth which had the tips broken off. Have been putting up with the bad gear changes as the LBS said it should be serviced at 3 months. I think it requires urgent attention in view of the missing bits on the gears and willcontact the shop to see when they can look at it.
Can you offer me any advice as too what I can do about it and to not have it happen again in the future as I am a relative newby?
Today though when cleaning the gears and and chain I found that the low gear sprocket at the rear and the large chain wheel at the front had
several teeth which had the tips broken off. Have been putting up with the bad gear changes as the LBS said it should be serviced at 3 months. I think it requires urgent attention in view of the missing bits on the gears and willcontact the shop to see when they can look at it.
Can you offer me any advice as too what I can do about it and to not have it happen again in the future as I am a relative newby?
Regarding the gears missing teeth, are you sure it's not the way the gears normally look? The gears have designs that allows the chain to shift and downshift easier so it may look like their broken, when in fact this is how they are designed.
#80
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Wodonga, Victoria, Australia
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Bikes: Giant Toughroad SLR 1 2019
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It's actually very typical for the derailleurs to require adjustments after a short period of time from first owning. The cables do stretch from time to time and after a year or two you may need to replace the cable and readjust when needed. Will depend on how much you ride and how well you ride.
Regarding the gears missing teeth, are you sure it's not the way the gears normally look? The gears have designs that allows the chain to shift and downshift easier so it may look like their broken, when in fact this is how they are designed.
Regarding the gears missing teeth, are you sure it's not the way the gears normally look? The gears have designs that allows the chain to shift and downshift easier so it may look like their broken, when in fact this is how they are designed.
I cleaned and lubed the chain again today after a damp ride and changes are better with no hesitation and shifting sequentially as they should from second, to third to fourth etc without the need to go up to and back down one to get the next sequential gear. Still cannot downshift to first using either of chin rings but I think that is as you say that the cables have stretched from their initial length. I went and chatted with my LBS and they said the same. They have booked it in for the 22nd of November and apologised that they could not do it sooner as the pre Christmas rush has started. They were surprised that I have already done nearly 600km since I bought it on the 13th of October. Use it or lose it I say.
#81
Senior Member
https://cdn-cyclingtips.pressidium.c...g-future-6.jpg
https://www.dahlmans.no/wp-content/u...48a0314b4c.jpg
#82
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Wodonga, Victoria, Australia
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It's supposed to be that way, to help improve shifting.
https://cdn-cyclingtips.pressidium.c...g-future-6.jpg
https://www.dahlmans.no/wp-content/u...48a0314b4c.jpg
https://cdn-cyclingtips.pressidium.c...g-future-6.jpg
https://www.dahlmans.no/wp-content/u...48a0314b4c.jpg
#83
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Join Date: Sep 2016
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Hi guys,
After one year of owning my TR and a MTB for serious offroad riding, I want to transform my TR into a road bike as much as possible. I've set it up with a pair of road tires, 32x700 and it looks and handels good and I want to change the handel bar to a dropbar or a bullbar or a flatbar and and aerobars.
So, option 1: the classic dropbar - Plus: multiple hand positions, aero position - Cons: I have to get new break levers and shifters that are expensive, especially for hydraulic disk brakes... to change the brake calipers to mechanical it is also not cheap.
Option 2: bullbar - Pros: two hand positions and a bit more aero than my current raiserbar, cheap - Cons: this is a little bit odd looking and I'm not sure that my levers and shifters can go on the handlebar near the stem...
Option 3: flatbar and aerobars - Pros: cheap setup, aero position - Cons: this is also a bit odd looking...
What do you think?
After one year of owning my TR and a MTB for serious offroad riding, I want to transform my TR into a road bike as much as possible. I've set it up with a pair of road tires, 32x700 and it looks and handels good and I want to change the handel bar to a dropbar or a bullbar or a flatbar and and aerobars.
So, option 1: the classic dropbar - Plus: multiple hand positions, aero position - Cons: I have to get new break levers and shifters that are expensive, especially for hydraulic disk brakes... to change the brake calipers to mechanical it is also not cheap.
Option 2: bullbar - Pros: two hand positions and a bit more aero than my current raiserbar, cheap - Cons: this is a little bit odd looking and I'm not sure that my levers and shifters can go on the handlebar near the stem...
Option 3: flatbar and aerobars - Pros: cheap setup, aero position - Cons: this is also a bit odd looking...
What do you think?
#84
Senior Member
Hi guys,
After one year of owning my TR and a MTB for serious offroad riding, I want to transform my TR into a road bike as much as possible. I've set it up with a pair of road tires, 32x700 and it looks and handels good and I want to change the handel bar to a dropbar or a bullbar or a flatbar and and aerobars.
So, option 1: the classic dropbar - Plus: multiple hand positions, aero position - Cons: I have to get new break levers and shifters that are expensive, especially for hydraulic disk brakes... to change the brake calipers to mechanical it is also not cheap.
Option 2: bullbar - Pros: two hand positions and a bit more aero than my current raiserbar, cheap - Cons: this is a little bit odd looking and I'm not sure that my levers and shifters can go on the handlebar near the stem...
Option 3: flatbar and aerobars - Pros: cheap setup, aero position - Cons: this is also a bit odd looking...
What do you think?
After one year of owning my TR and a MTB for serious offroad riding, I want to transform my TR into a road bike as much as possible. I've set it up with a pair of road tires, 32x700 and it looks and handels good and I want to change the handel bar to a dropbar or a bullbar or a flatbar and and aerobars.
So, option 1: the classic dropbar - Plus: multiple hand positions, aero position - Cons: I have to get new break levers and shifters that are expensive, especially for hydraulic disk brakes... to change the brake calipers to mechanical it is also not cheap.
Option 2: bullbar - Pros: two hand positions and a bit more aero than my current raiserbar, cheap - Cons: this is a little bit odd looking and I'm not sure that my levers and shifters can go on the handlebar near the stem...
Option 3: flatbar and aerobars - Pros: cheap setup, aero position - Cons: this is also a bit odd looking...
What do you think?
I found the Jones bar, which works with flatbar controls and also gives multiple good positions. In fact more than a drop bar.
https://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bars/
#85
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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I had the same dropbar idea for the same reasons. But that requires major drivetrain and brake changes.....
I found the Jones bar, which works with flatbar controls and also gives multiple good positions. In fact more than a drop bar.
https://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bars/
I found the Jones bar, which works with flatbar controls and also gives multiple good positions. In fact more than a drop bar.
https://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bars/
Conversion costs (considerable) aside, the flatbar Toughroad's geometry is all wrong for a drop bar. Slapping aero bars onto flat or riser bars could work, but is an awkward solution at best; one of the several Jones bars is a much better solution.
#87
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2016
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I found copy of the H-bar on the local market, I set it up yesterday and took a test ride. I love the confort, the multiple hand positions, the aero positions... I do not feel the bike as stable as with the raiser bar but I think I will get used to it and it will be better...
Here is the result:
Here is the result:
#88
Senior Member
Maybe try to tilt the bar up in front a bit. The pics look like it is lower. Watch jeff's videos.
Also, a shorter stem is usually in order for that bar. Short and high rise. YMMV, but that is the general advice and my experience.
Typically Jeff recommends the 2.5" rise version for regular bikes. His Jones bikes have a higher headtube. I only have the regular 0.5" rise version and had a hard time finding shirt high rise stem to make up for that.
Also, a shorter stem is usually in order for that bar. Short and high rise. YMMV, but that is the general advice and my experience.
Typically Jeff recommends the 2.5" rise version for regular bikes. His Jones bikes have a higher headtube. I only have the regular 0.5" rise version and had a hard time finding shirt high rise stem to make up for that.
#89
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Do used toughroad slr come up for sale often ? I’m having a hard time finding a used one in my size. Maybe that’s a good sign that people like to hold on to them!
#90
Senior Member
#91
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
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There are a few out there. There are two in the Pittsburgh region:
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/se...uery=toughroad
That one for less than 400 bucks looks like a great deal.
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/se...uery=toughroad
That one for less than 400 bucks looks like a great deal.