28 Flats Later
#1
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28 Flats Later
Any one have any idea why I keep getting a flat with the puncture or tear in the same place about every three weeks? Even sometimes a few hours after I install a new tube?
There's no debris in the rim or tire.
I've replaced the tube so many times I'm thinking about starting to drive...
There's no debris in the rim or tire.
I've replaced the tube so many times I'm thinking about starting to drive...
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That type of puncture looks like a pinch flat, but it's in sort of an odd spot by the valve stem. Possibility: how hard is it to get your pump off the valve stem after you air up?
-Jenrick
-Jenrick
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I've seen that one a lot. (flat tires are a common repair item at work)
Here's what happens:
There is a stiff disk or rubber at the base of the valve
If the valve is not firmly pulled against the inside of the rim there will be a gap underneath this disk.
The more flexible rubber from the surrounding normal area of the tube, expands under inflation pressure and tries to fill this gap.
this causes localized stretching beyond the limits of the tube, hence the little tear you see.
the problem can occur upon tube installation if the valve isnt firmly pulled against rim.
or can occur in the future if the tube/tire is run underinflated and shifts around.
It is more common on narrow rims or those with a deep recessed area, where the stiff valve base area has a harder time squeezing inside.
Conclude:
on tube installation make sure the valve stem is bottommed out against the rim before full inflation.
keep tires consistently pressurized
when inflating check that valve is still in place, a valve that leans to one side is a warning that its probably not sitting flush inside the rim
Here's what happens:
There is a stiff disk or rubber at the base of the valve
If the valve is not firmly pulled against the inside of the rim there will be a gap underneath this disk.
The more flexible rubber from the surrounding normal area of the tube, expands under inflation pressure and tries to fill this gap.
this causes localized stretching beyond the limits of the tube, hence the little tear you see.
the problem can occur upon tube installation if the valve isnt firmly pulled against rim.
or can occur in the future if the tube/tire is run underinflated and shifts around.
It is more common on narrow rims or those with a deep recessed area, where the stiff valve base area has a harder time squeezing inside.
Conclude:
on tube installation make sure the valve stem is bottommed out against the rim before full inflation.
keep tires consistently pressurized
when inflating check that valve is still in place, a valve that leans to one side is a warning that its probably not sitting flush inside the rim
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If the valve is not firmly pulled against the inside of the rim there will be a gap underneath this disk.
The more flexible rubber from the surrounding normal area of the tube, expands under inflation pressure and tries to fill this gap.
this causes localized stretching beyond the limits of the tube, hence the little tear you see.
The more flexible rubber from the surrounding normal area of the tube, expands under inflation pressure and tries to fill this gap.
this causes localized stretching beyond the limits of the tube, hence the little tear you see.
Thank you, Xenologer. I'm tired of typing the same answer.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
Senior Member
I've seen that one a lot. (flat tires are a common repair item at work)
Here's what happens:
There is a stiff disk or rubber at the base of the valve
If the valve is not firmly pulled against the inside of the rim there will be a gap underneath this disk.
The more flexible rubber from the surrounding normal area of the tube, expands under inflation pressure and tries to fill this gap.
this causes localized stretching beyond the limits of the tube, hence the little tear you see.
the problem can occur upon tube installation if the valve isnt firmly pulled against rim.
or can occur in the future if the tube/tire is run underinflated and shifts around.
It is more common on narrow rims or those with a deep recessed area, where the stiff valve base area has a harder time squeezing inside.
Conclude:
on tube installation make sure the valve stem is bottommed out against the rim before full inflation.
keep tires consistently pressurized
when inflating check that valve is still in place, a valve that leans to one side is a warning that its probably not sitting flush inside the rim
Here's what happens:
There is a stiff disk or rubber at the base of the valve
If the valve is not firmly pulled against the inside of the rim there will be a gap underneath this disk.
The more flexible rubber from the surrounding normal area of the tube, expands under inflation pressure and tries to fill this gap.
this causes localized stretching beyond the limits of the tube, hence the little tear you see.
the problem can occur upon tube installation if the valve isnt firmly pulled against rim.
or can occur in the future if the tube/tire is run underinflated and shifts around.
It is more common on narrow rims or those with a deep recessed area, where the stiff valve base area has a harder time squeezing inside.
Conclude:
on tube installation make sure the valve stem is bottommed out against the rim before full inflation.
keep tires consistently pressurized
when inflating check that valve is still in place, a valve that leans to one side is a warning that its probably not sitting flush inside the rim
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Hi,
You need to keep tightening the outside valve retaining ring once
the tyre is properly seated (*) and have a good idea how much it
should stick out when it is properly seated on the rim.
rgds, sreten.
* The rubber valve seat can also get stuck under tyres in narrow
rims preventing proper tyre seating causing a bulge at the valve.
Usually on one side only and that I'd assume can cause the
same sort of tear in the innertube, I only noticed fitting my
tyres because the reflective rings made it much more obvious.
You need to keep tightening the outside valve retaining ring once
the tyre is properly seated (*) and have a good idea how much it
should stick out when it is properly seated on the rim.
rgds, sreten.
* The rubber valve seat can also get stuck under tyres in narrow
rims preventing proper tyre seating causing a bulge at the valve.
Usually on one side only and that I'd assume can cause the
same sort of tear in the innertube, I only noticed fitting my
tyres because the reflective rings made it much more obvious.
Last edited by sreten; 04-11-13 at 02:35 PM.
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Whoa.
After mounting the tire and before inflating push the valve into the tire to allow the tire bead to seat properly into the rim walls. After the beads are fully seated then pull the tube to the rim (actually the pressure should do that for you).
After mounting the tire and before inflating push the valve into the tire to allow the tire bead to seat properly into the rim walls. After the beads are fully seated then pull the tube to the rim (actually the pressure should do that for you).
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Yes. If its not trapped, tyre pressure alone will correctly seat the valve.
rgds, sreten.
I think I did it wrong (with hindsight). Fitting a tyre start from
the valve (opposite to taking it off) and push the valve in to
make sure its not trapped at the low initial tensions involved.
Last edited by sreten; 04-11-13 at 03:37 PM.
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FWIW, I once had problems mounting a latex tube when I tried to finish at the rim joint. I was used to mounting sew-ups by finishing opposite the valve and the thin tube kept getting trapped under the bead. I couldn't finish pushing the tube into the center without risking a tear. I had seen advice to finish at the valve and thought the advice was crazy.
What I finally figured out was that I could get the tube in by starting at the joint and working back to the valve. When I got to the valve, I could push the tube back into the tire with the valve, then finish with the bead.
What I finally figured out was that I could get the tube in by starting at the joint and working back to the valve. When I got to the valve, I could push the tube back into the tire with the valve, then finish with the bead.
#17
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Ignore list made. Congrats!
#18
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I've had the same problem. I think it's just really cheap, poor quality control from tube makers. One solution that's been successful for me is using very thick, heavy, thorn proof tubes.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Thorn.../dp/B00129ACNI
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Thorn.../dp/B00129ACNI
#19
Senior Member
Same problem here. It happens less on wider tires and much more on skinnies. It is caused by cheap manufacture. Never seen before the 1990s. Too many tubes have that exact failure straight out of the box, before even being inflated.
Schwalbe tubes are far from perfect, they seem to be best quality at this moment. There is nothing out there the quality of old Goodyear or Dunlop tubes, tubes that can still be used 60 years later. If you buy from UK Schwalbe can be had for less than $4 shipped. Otherwise widest tire practical for your bike and move towards bikes that take wider tires. Also, problem never occurs with tubulars.
Schwalbe tubes are far from perfect, they seem to be best quality at this moment. There is nothing out there the quality of old Goodyear or Dunlop tubes, tubes that can still be used 60 years later. If you buy from UK Schwalbe can be had for less than $4 shipped. Otherwise widest tire practical for your bike and move towards bikes that take wider tires. Also, problem never occurs with tubulars.
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Flats
The tube can get stuck under the bead and inflating them pinches the tube. I put a little air in the tube after getting the tire back on and then make sure the tubes is not pinched especially near the valve. Like the previous poster said, push the valve into the tire to make sure their is no pinching then inflate before tightening the valve nut.