faisal12

Hello everyone

On Sunday, I bought the bike of my dreams - a simple 700cc aluminum single gear bike with one rear break - I'm a simple man . Unfortunately I live in a city where there are steep hills (Amman). Today I went for a ride around the neighborhood. I rode up a slightly steep hill (maybe 4-5% incline) and my lungs were struggling, and legs burning. I am not sure if this is because I have taken time off from biking, or if its because the single gear ratio is not the best - Can that be even changed? I have also started thinking about my posture, I am 5'10 and my legs are long, even with the highest seat setting, my legs are not fully extended when pressing down on pedals.

Are there any tips that a single gear newbie should take into consideration? In other words what can I do to overall improve the quality of my rides with what I have. I don't feel like switching to a bike with many gears, and I am hoping to ride my single gear bike more but with the right settings, whether it's gear ratio, seat height, or just personal fitness.

Thank you in advance

seau grateau

Hills are always going to be harder on a single speed. Give it a few more rides and let your legs get used to it a little before you start changing stuff is my advice.

HLaudio

Hello Faisal! Please tell us more about your bike... make, model, bike size, chainring size, crank length and rear cog size. Maybe include your weight. If you don’t mind.
Be safe, H

faisal12

Hello HLaudio

The bike's make is Dynacraft 700cc (53 x 7.25 x 29.25 inches) - Wheel size is 28" I believe. I counted the teeth on the chairing and it's 48, the rear cog has 18 (not sure what size that would make it). The crank length I estimate is between 170-175 mm ? I'm 145 lbs and 5'10.

I just went for a ride and halfway through found it brutally hard to ride up a small hill. Why is that?

My body is telling me to quit yet I'm not willing to give up on riding and putting in the effort to become physically stronger. One more thing, is there anyway to raise the seat past it's maximum height setting?

Thank you in advance

HLaudio

Faisal, I would change the chainring to a smaller size. 44T or maybe lower. Leave the rear cog as is. Regarding seat height, we are both roughly the same height, i have my seat set at 72cm. Measured bottombracket (BB) to top line of seat. When riding, you don’t want your hips rocking side to side. That would indicate your seat is too high. There are many YouTube videos that can help “fit” your bike to you. But, for better pedaling power up hill...change the chainring.
Be safe, H

faisal12

Thank you HLaudio so much for your rich advice. One last thing - Does any chainring with 44t work or does does it have to be a specific brand - Shimano etc. ? Thank you again

TugaDude

You need to determine the BCD, Bolt Center Diameter of the crank spider and match that to a chain ring. Not all cranks are the same. Also, if you are running 3/32" chain, then you have to go with a 3/32" chain ring. If you are running 1/8" chain, it doesn't matter.

HLaudio

Faisal, any chainring that matches your current crankset BCD will work. The BCD is the Bolt Circle Diameter. If you find a 44T chainring that has same BCD size you should be good. Also note number of bolt holes. Do you have 4 or 5 bolt holes...you must match this as well. I’m curious, do you have a bike shop in your town? They should be able to get you setup.
be safe,
H

HLaudio

TugaDude has also offered some good info!

Mikefule

Cranks sets have interchangeable rings. These are usually held on by either 4 or 5 bolts. Those bolts can be imagined as being on a circle that is centred on the bottom bracket spindle. BCD is the "bolt circle diameter" (or bolt centre diameter) and is the diameter of that circle.

You need to buy a ring that is the same number of bolts and the same BCD as the crankset you have.

You also need the right thickness. For a single speed, the thicker size is better. (1/8 is thicker than 3/32) If you go from thick to thin, you may find you can't quite get the bolts tight enough to stop the chain ring rattling.

A wider chain will fit on a narrower chainring, but a narrower chain will not fit on a wider chainring.

The same goes for the rear sprocket: it needs to be the same gauge or narrower than the chain.

For single speed or fixed, a 1/8" set up is more common and robust. Narrower chains were designed for multi speed systems.

If you want to change ratio, then 1 tooth at the rear sprocket will make more difference than 1 tooth at the chain ring.

There are many ready reference calculators available on line. However, to calculate and compare gear ratios in "inches":

(teeth on chain ring) divided by (teeth on sprocket) multiplied by (diameter of the wheel in inches).

For general riding, a gear roughly equal to your own height in inches is a good starting point. So I'm 5'7" = 67" tall, and a gear somewhere around 65 to 70 inches suits me. I'm riding 49/20 x 700c which is roughly 68.5"

One absolute rule, though: in the matter of gear ratios, the number of opinions is >= n+1 where n is the number of people who respond.

pbass

I'm no expert, but I've always figured it made the most sense to gear for the climbing where you live. My ss is 42x19. Pretty low, but I live right by the mountains, I'm old, and everywhere I go is up! The tradeoff of spinning out quickly elsewhere is acceptable to me.
Look up saddle height info--you want your legs to be slightly bent, not fully extended.
Also, unclear from your post, but on a singlespeed when you're climbing hard...stand up! Sounds like you're trying to do it seated. At some point ya gotta get out of the saddle and mash, get your whole body into it. It's a killer workout. You will get fit and strong quickly if you keep at it (but still, no shame in walking when necessary!).

TugaDude

There is no right and wrong. Your opinion is valid. Some might say to choose a gear where you can manage most hills and when you find one you can't, get off and walk. To each his or her own!

seau grateau

Probably because you're not very fit, to be honest. Hills are hard. Lower your gearing if you want. Keep riding.

faisal12

Good afternoon/evening everyone, Thank you you for the responses.

There are bike shops in my town but with Covid-19 I'm not certain if they're in business. I will try to set up an appointment to get my chainring replaced, also Mikefule thank you for the breakdown. I did the math and a 44t chainring should be okay.

My only worry is the straddle - I've set it at the highest setting which is not that high. I still feel that my legs are more than slightly bent - Is there a way to add extra height and how? I looked up bike fit on youtube and did test. It's still somewhat low for me. I wonder if the bike shop might have another straddle hooked with a longer beam? We'll see.

Thank you again everyone.

Have a great day

Mikefule

5% incline is not steep, although it can become a slog if it is a long hill.

There are 3 things that may be making it hard for you:
1) Too high a gear ratio, If it is this then you need either a smaller front cog or a bigger back cog. Don't make changes here just yet.
2) Lack of technique. For example, are you sitting or standing? Are you pulling up on the bars? Are you putting all your weight on the pedal? Practice and experience will help you improve.
3) Lack of fitness. Even if your base level of fitness is good, a new activity can become tiring until you get used to it.

It is likely that the answer to your problem is all 3 of these, although the extent will vary:
1) Many new bikes are sold with high gear ratios.
2) You're new to riding single speed.
3) You're new to riding single speed!

The correct starting point for adjusting seat height is well established: sit on the bike in your normal riding position. Put the pedal at the bottom of its travel. Wearing flat soled shoes/cycling shoes, put your heel on the pedal at the bottom of its travel. Your leg should be comfortably straight, not locked or stretching.

Now, when you put the ball of your foot on the pedal, you will find a slight bend at the knee.

This is the classic tried and tested formula. HOWEVER, it is only a starting point. People vary in shape and proportions. Start with this position then make adjustments in units of about 5mm up or down until you find a position that is comfortable for you. It is unlikely to be more than about 10mm away from this classic position.

If your saddle is too high, the effect is like walking on tiptoe: you can do it but it is more tiring.

If your saddle is too low, the effect is like walking with your legs bend: you can do it, but it's more tiring.

The position of the saddle forward or backwards is also important.If it's too far back, you can't get your weight to work for you in quite the same way and it is more tiring on your legs.

I posted earlier in this thread about choosing a gear ratio. Any arrangement of 1 chain ring and 1 sprocket gives you two gear ratios: too high for the steepest uphill on your ride, and too low for your steepest descent! Point is, if you gear for your steepest climb, you will be in a frustratingly low twiddly gear for most of the time. If you gear for your fastest downhill, then climbing back up it will be a challenge. However, with a freewheel rather than fixed, you can afford to gear for the steep climb, and coast down the steep descents.

I personally prefer fixed to free on my 1 x 1 bike, but I also have a geared bike (2 x 10) which I often ride for long distances without changing gear. The simplicity and discipline of a single speed or fixed bike is its own reward. That said, modern gears are reliable and there is no shame in having a geared bike if that suits your needs or preference.