Birdy modification problems
#26
Part-time epistemologist
Should be easy enough to mount up a standard road 10sp cass to check things out.
If the cassette does not appear to be completely true, it could be the freehub body which is the issue, not the cassette. Again, mounting a standard road 10sp cass should make this apparent or not.
Finally, we had issues in the shop adjusting early run Tiagra running gear until we were told by Shimano Tech to swap out cable housing ferrules from plastic to metal.
Good luck!
If the cassette does not appear to be completely true, it could be the freehub body which is the issue, not the cassette. Again, mounting a standard road 10sp cass should make this apparent or not.
Finally, we had issues in the shop adjusting early run Tiagra running gear until we were told by Shimano Tech to swap out cable housing ferrules from plastic to metal.
Good luck!
He can always measure the space from cog to cog. Shimano 10-speed is 3.95 mm whereas 9-speed is 4.35 mm. I wonder whether the smallest 4 cogs are biased towards 9-speed -- from memory the 9-10-11-13 Capreo cogs are "special" -- whereas the largest are 10. There is usually enough play in the derailer to accommodate some error.
I think the OP's best best is to talk to the cassette manufacturer before doing anything else.
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#27
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I believe Utah Trikes (among others) offers a 10 speed version as well. From the feedback I've gotten, they shift well.
That being said, I wouldn't otherwise dismiss your concerns. Mixing 9 and 10 speed cassettes in general does sound like a recipe to have a poorly performing drivetrain.
Ummmm.... Really?
Let me google that for you
Second hit.
That being said, I wouldn't otherwise dismiss your concerns. Mixing 9 and 10 speed cassettes in general does sound like a recipe to have a poorly performing drivetrain.
Ummmm.... Really?
Let me google that for you
Second hit.
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Re ferrals.
I have started only using metal ferrals on my bikes now.
I also thread a spoke washer over the cable ends to sit inside the ferrals to stop anychance of them coming though.
I have started only using metal ferrals on my bikes now.
I also thread a spoke washer over the cable ends to sit inside the ferrals to stop anychance of them coming though.
#29
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He'd have to get another hub/wheel. The freehub body is different.
He can always measure the space from cog to cog. Shimano 10-speed is 3.95 mm whereas 9-speed is 4.35 mm. I wonder whether the smallest 4 cogs are biased towards 9-speed -- from memory the 9-10-11-13 Capreo cogs are "special" -- whereas the largest are 10. There is usually enough play in the derailer to accommodate some error.
I think the OP's best best is to talk to the cassette manufacturer before doing anything else.
He can always measure the space from cog to cog. Shimano 10-speed is 3.95 mm whereas 9-speed is 4.35 mm. I wonder whether the smallest 4 cogs are biased towards 9-speed -- from memory the 9-10-11-13 Capreo cogs are "special" -- whereas the largest are 10. There is usually enough play in the derailer to accommodate some error.
I think the OP's best best is to talk to the cassette manufacturer before doing anything else.
But at that point -- swapping out a freehub -- is getting kind of ridiculous as a means of diagnostics alone.
On the other other hand, depending on what the issue was with the cassette -- if it appeared to be wobbling a bit, out of perpendicular with the axle, I'd strongly suspect the freehub anyway...
#30
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Hello every one and thanks for your help. Here is the diagnostic plan:
1. I will try another cassette. I have a second from the manufacturer who is being very helpful.
If this works then cassette 1 is faulty and end of problem. If it does not work:
2. If this doesn't work I will swap the free hub for a standard Shimano freehub and put on a standard 10 speed cassette. If it shifts well I know it is a problem with the Capreo parts or the Capreo freehub.
3.if it doesnot work the problem is in derailleur shifter chain or cables and is probably not the fault of the hub or cassette.
1. I will try another cassette. I have a second from the manufacturer who is being very helpful.
If this works then cassette 1 is faulty and end of problem. If it does not work:
2. If this doesn't work I will swap the free hub for a standard Shimano freehub and put on a standard 10 speed cassette. If it shifts well I know it is a problem with the Capreo parts or the Capreo freehub.
3.if it doesnot work the problem is in derailleur shifter chain or cables and is probably not the fault of the hub or cassette.
#31
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Before all that, which is a good plan, there is the simple procedure of removing the chain, shifting to each gear and making sure the derailer is perfectly aligned with each respective cog. If the shifting of the derailer is the problem, then you will prevent a lot of work.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#32
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Thanks Jur, I tried that with some improvement. But I will ask the LBS to have a look as shifting still a bit horrible. Clunk clunk clunk clunk Clunky KK clunk. Sound of my commute...
#33
Part-time epistemologist
The Shimano Capreo hub and Cassette
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A narrative on bicycle driving.
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#34
Part-time epistemologist
Hello every one and thanks for your help. Here is the diagnostic plan:
1. I will try another cassette. I have a second from the manufacturer who is being very helpful.
If this works then cassette 1 is faulty and end of problem. If it does not work:
2. If this doesn't work I will swap the free hub for a standard Shimano freehub and put on a standard 10 speed cassette. If it shifts well I know it is a problem with the Capreo parts or the Capreo freehub.
3.if it doesnot work the problem is in derailleur shifter chain or cables and is probably not the fault of the hub or cassette.
1. I will try another cassette. I have a second from the manufacturer who is being very helpful.
If this works then cassette 1 is faulty and end of problem. If it does not work:
2. If this doesn't work I will swap the free hub for a standard Shimano freehub and put on a standard 10 speed cassette. If it shifts well I know it is a problem with the Capreo parts or the Capreo freehub.
3.if it doesnot work the problem is in derailleur shifter chain or cables and is probably not the fault of the hub or cassette.
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#35
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What happened? Problems fixed?
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#36
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Sort of. The Joseph Kuosac cassette could not be made to shift and it appears the ramps on the cassette are not quite good enough. So I currently have a 10 speed ultegra 11-28 with a standard Shimano free hub and a 105 derailleur with a 56T chainring, tiagra shifter (4600). The crankset was rotated and the chainring is no longer slightly wobbly. It shifts very nicely indeed and it is a pleasure to ride. However, I have lost the gain ratio I was looking for by running a 9-28 capreo cassette with a 56T chainring. In fact the current max gain ratio is the same as when I had a standard Capreo group set.
I was thinking of making a frankencassette with a capreo free hub and the first three 10 speed steel cogs from the Joseph Kuosac and then running the rest from the ultegra cassette. this would be 9,10,11 then 14-28. However, plan to commute for a bit longer and see how I go. Might just pedal faster.
I was thinking of making a frankencassette with a capreo free hub and the first three 10 speed steel cogs from the Joseph Kuosac and then running the rest from the ultegra cassette. this would be 9,10,11 then 14-28. However, plan to commute for a bit longer and see how I go. Might just pedal faster.
#37
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I may not be finished with modding this bike or with trying to improve capreo but for the moment I am finished with having an unrideable bike and I am pleased it is riding like a dream again.
#38
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I improved my Birdy by putting on a 58T chainring. Just a small difference but a difference nevertheless. Later I installed a Schlumpf Speed Drive. I sold the bike without the Schlumpf which is now gathering dust in my garage. I might be persuaded to part with it... Since we are both in Aus it is workable.
#39
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Anyway, I'm sorry to read that it didn't work out. Maybe if the SRAM 11-speed system with the 10-tooth cog will be an option in the future. At the moment, it still sells for over $300 USD not including the freehub body. A ridiculous price, IMO.
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#41
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Well thanks. I do have a little issue. The new carbon wheels with their carbon brake pads squeal. Toeing in helps a little and then, a few days later, squealing again. It's a very socially awkward thing squealing brake pads. Somewhere my brain I wonder about changing for a birdy disc fork...does anyone know where you would get such a thing? Would need to change hub too.
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Well thanks. I do have a little issue. The new carbon wheels with their carbon brake pads squeal. Toeing in helps a little and then, a few days later, squealing again. It's a very socially awkward thing squealing brake pads. Somewhere my brain I wonder about changing for a birdy disc fork...does anyone know where you would get such a thing? Would need to change hub too.
#43
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I strongly, no, very strongly recommend not to use the back brakes unless in an emergency stop situation or descending a steep long slope which could otherwise cause overheating of the front rim if used alone.
The back brakes furnish only a tiny portion of the braking power, but due to the fact that the back wheel picks up much road dirt, the back rim wears rapidly. Especially with your expensive rims this is a very important consideration.
sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
The back brakes furnish only a tiny portion of the braking power, but due to the fact that the back wheel picks up much road dirt, the back rim wears rapidly. Especially with your expensive rims this is a very important consideration.
sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
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Just another thought on the shifting issue you had (too late now, but whatever), the SRAM chains have a very different side profile when viewed from the top. The link plate sticks out in the middle, enabling it to mesh with pickup ridges better. Shimano chains and sprockets have a slightly different design. This may make the difference.
#45
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Just another thought on the shifting issue you had (too late now, but whatever), the SRAM chains have a very different side profile when viewed from the top. The link plate sticks out in the middle, enabling it to mesh with pickup ridges better. Shimano chains and sprockets have a slightly different design. This may make the difference.
Bike is riding very nicely and happily. With the higher pressure tyres I have gone back to using the red rear polymer suspension. Point about rear brake noted.
Now, today I met someone with a whole host of ultegra cassette parts who suggested we build a frankencassette with the 9,10,11 of the capreo 10 speed and then using 7 pieces of a 12-28 from a normal functioning ultegra cassette. Tempting...
#46
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I fitted my Birdy with an XT 10 speed freewheel, medium-cage derailleur, and shifters, using the stock hub. The freewheel is 32 teeth, which might seem excessive, but I can climb the steepest hills in the area without standing on the pedals.
The XT 10 speed conversion was completely bolt-on, no tinkering was necessary to get it to work. Upshifts and downshifts are flawless. The only issue is ground clearance in some gears, but the derailleur seldom takes a hit, and the XT takes hits without damage, or even getting knocked out of adjustment.
Unfortunately, my Birdy was stolen, so I am now on a three speed Brompton, and am missing the flexibility of the Birdy quite a lot.
The XT 10 speed conversion was completely bolt-on, no tinkering was necessary to get it to work. Upshifts and downshifts are flawless. The only issue is ground clearance in some gears, but the derailleur seldom takes a hit, and the XT takes hits without damage, or even getting knocked out of adjustment.
Unfortunately, my Birdy was stolen, so I am now on a three speed Brompton, and am missing the flexibility of the Birdy quite a lot.