For the love of English 3 speeds...
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Hi folks. I'm just about at the test ride stage of this build. 700c wheels with sturmey archer four speed hub and dynohub. For those who have worked on dynohubs, what level of play at the hub when installed and tight is to be expected? I've followed the proper procedure for cones and what not. Just seems to have more than a hint of play. Chain line is 95 percent. It might need to be a bit tighter. I may adjust the wheel position in the dropouts. Before the pandemic hit I was going to have a more modern alloy 26mm seat post brought down to 24mm, but it's too late. For the moment I'm stuck with the old one. Apart from that the headset is original (and in great shape). Handlebar is a Sakae unit off of my Voyageur. Original mafac calipers with kool stop pads and the Dia Compe levers off the Voyageur. Thoughts on the dynohub play? The FW is shifting beautifully.
At least here in Minnesota, bike shops are considered an 'essential industry' as they are in the transportation sector.
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Generally speaking, one of the differences between four-speeds and 3-speeds is that there really shouldn't be any play in the cones of a four-speed.
At least here in Minnesota, bike shops are considered an 'essential industry' as they are in the transportation sector.
At least here in Minnesota, bike shops are considered an 'essential industry' as they are in the transportation sector.
Thanks for the tip about the cones. There is no discernible play in the four-speed hub. It is very smooth and the cranks do not rotate when the bike is pushed forward. Tomorrow is going to be sunny so I'm going to take the bike out at lunchtime for the shakedown.
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Good to see you. This is a great thread you started. I thought I was all alone with my English roadster hobby until I found this nice group.
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glad to be here, Big Chief
while it's still abit to cold and windy, my old faithful Raleigh Tourist beckons..
as ever, Julius in Ohio
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I got in a nice 20 mile spin, beautiful day today.
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Head tube angle looks absurdly laid back on that bike, I see the rear tire is slightly lower than the front tire, but...
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I think the frame geometry is what makes these bikes so comfortable on poor road surfaces. My DL-1 is much nicer to ride on bumpy and gravel roads than my Sports.
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Braking has improved since I installed Kool Stop brake shoes, made some slight adjustments to the linkages, & got the wheels trued - not that the braking was that bad to begin with. I've never understood the comments about horrid stopping power with rod brakes, but maybe that's because the brakes on my Tourist were set up well when I got it?
The brakes on my Raleigh Twenty, that I understand! The rear calipers flex & even with new pads they don't grab the rim.
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Yes, quite laid back; I think the lack of fenders accentuates the slack angles. It is such a smooth ride! I agree that the angles probably contribute to the ride quality, but I think the tall wide tires also play a part.
Braking has improved since I installed Kool Stop brake shoes, made some slight adjustments to the linkages, & got the wheels trued - not that the braking was that bad to begin with. I've never understood the comments about horrid stopping power with rod brakes, but maybe that's because the brakes on my Tourist were set up well when I got it?
The brakes on my Raleigh Twenty, that I understand! The rear calipers flex & even with new pads they don't grab the rim.
Braking has improved since I installed Kool Stop brake shoes, made some slight adjustments to the linkages, & got the wheels trued - not that the braking was that bad to begin with. I've never understood the comments about horrid stopping power with rod brakes, but maybe that's because the brakes on my Tourist were set up well when I got it?
The brakes on my Raleigh Twenty, that I understand! The rear calipers flex & even with new pads they don't grab the rim.
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Kool Stop inserts are the best pads I've found. I can see that you also have the proper distance between the brake levers and the hand grips. This helps a lot. Sometimes they get bent in too close and need to be bent out again. I also think there is some advantage to mount the front brake pads leading the stirrup like you have.
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Here is my 1971 Tourist DL-1 w/28" wheels and rod brakes. Paint, chrome and Dunlop Roadster tires all original.
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Thanks!
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I took the Peugeot with an FW alloy four-speed out for a shakedown ride yesterday. The FW shifts really nicely - I'm very happy about that. A few adjustments of the stem and seatpost to be made and of course handlebar tape.
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Later Raleigh front rod brakes use arms that offset the pads from the center line of the stirrup. This was done to smooth out the braking action making it less grabby. You can either mount the pad assembly in front or behind the stirrup. Mounting it behind the stirrup would be "leading" considering the direction the wheel rotates.
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For anyone replacing rod brake pads the first time, I'll pass along my experience. Kool Stop salmon pads are meant to be used with the original Raleigh pad holders. The holders have a split tube formed into them that is closed at one end and open at the other. So you must be careful to mount the assembly on the bike in the right direction. What you do to install the new pads is open a vise just enough to catch the sides of the tube and use a hammer and punch to drift out the old pads and press the new ones in. The Kool Stop pads have curved tops that match the radius of the rim. Now, you can also buy Fibrax pads that come complete with holders that are closed on both ends, but they are not curved to match the rim. I suppose you are expected to let them wear into shape. I've tried this. It doesn't work. With only the front and rear edges of the pads contacting the rim, it's like having no brakes at all. I highly recommend using Kool Stops in the original pad holders.
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For anyone replacing rod brake pads the first time, I'll pass along my experience. Kool Stop salmon pads are meant to be used with the original Raleigh pad holders.
...
Now, you can also buy Fibrax pads that come complete with holders that are closed on both ends, but they are not curved to match the rim. I suppose you are expected to let them wear into shape. I've tried this. It doesn't work. With only the front and rear edges of the pads contacting the rim, it's like having no brakes at all. I highly recommend using Kool Stops in the original pad holders.
...
Now, you can also buy Fibrax pads that come complete with holders that are closed on both ends, but they are not curved to match the rim. I suppose you are expected to let them wear into shape. I've tried this. It doesn't work. With only the front and rear edges of the pads contacting the rim, it's like having no brakes at all. I highly recommend using Kool Stops in the original pad holders.
Rod brake shoe/pad install/remove
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If the brake shoe is put on the other side, it isn't pushed up into the rim, so it doesn't grab as much.
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I've kindly been given this Elswick 1960 Light Roadster, as it was going to be thrown away. Here are a few photos, as first seen, after decades in a garage. I have no experience of classic 3 speed roadsters.
There's a lot of character there and I'm happy it has been saved from the bike graveyard. Looking forward to catching up on a genre of bike I've completely missed out on, and a return
to the road for this lovely old bike.
There's a lot of character there and I'm happy it has been saved from the bike graveyard. Looking forward to catching up on a genre of bike I've completely missed out on, and a return
to the road for this lovely old bike.
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avec Reynolds
Love that vintage Elswick...first that I have heard of that brand...is it an offshoot of Rudge or Raleigh?
Julius in Ohio
Julius in Ohio
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elswick_Hopper
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