What tool do I use to crimp cable housing ferrules?
06-20-16, 11:09 AM
#26
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I re-use the crimped ends over by warming the ferrule with a propane torch to lightly melt the plastic. A little heat lets it slide on the new cable and they DONT come off. Most of the time I use that trick to shorten a cable that was cut way too long.
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06-20-16, 07:28 PM
#27
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Even more trolling? Shameful.
Let's take a look at the name of that website...
For one of the nice people (they seem to out-number the trolls): the shipping makes up for any savings but the base price is still $60
Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!
Let's take a look at the name of that website...
For one of the nice people (they seem to out-number the trolls): the shipping makes up for any savings but the base price is still $60
Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!
Last edited by MadRat; 06-20-16 at 07:32 PM.
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06-21-16, 10:50 AM
#28
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Geez guys. Stop sweating the minutae. First. Crimping any thing on shifter housing is just asking for trouble. You are going to crimp the housing which will cuaze the cable to bind. All in the pursuit of vanity. Why do you think plastic ferrules were invented? To make sure the housing end is supported but without having to crimp the housing.
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
06-21-16, 09:36 PM
#29
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On the metal ferrule that is crimped, is it tight enough so it cannot be easily pulled off, or is it just tight enough to make it a snug fit but still able to be pulled off and reinserted?
01-31-21, 02:31 PM
#30
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Im reasearching what to do about the finnishing toutch on my cables, how to crimp the ferrules on. Easy no crimp needed, but I will try and get away with a miniscule amount of glue to hold the ferrules on.
01-31-21, 02:50 PM
#31
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Even more trolling? Shameful.
Let's take a look at the name of that website...
Attachment 528453
For one of the nice people (they seem to out-number the trolls): the shipping makes up for any savings but the base price is still $60
Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!
Let's take a look at the name of that website...
Attachment 528453
For one of the nice people (they seem to out-number the trolls): the shipping makes up for any savings but the base price is still $60
Bike Tools Etc. - 1000's of bicycle tools and parts for the home mechanic!
01-31-21, 03:10 PM
#32
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Why on earth are you thinking they need to be glued on? There is no way they'll go anywhere once installed. You're dramatically overthinking this.
01-31-21, 05:24 PM
#33
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Just get the ferrules precrimped. They push on like 4mm housing end caps. https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...&category=1613
They look like this:
If you really want to crimp and round ferrule, Get the Knipex cable cutters.
https://www.kctoolco.com/knipex-95-6...-plastic-grip/
They have two sets of crimping dies. You can tell that the crimping die for the tips sees a lot more miles than the hex crimp, because I buy the pre-crimped end caps.
The first puts a hex crimp in the ferrules, and the second puts a beautiful crimp on both brake and derailleur cable tips:
They look like this:
If you really want to crimp and round ferrule, Get the Knipex cable cutters.
https://www.kctoolco.com/knipex-95-6...-plastic-grip/
They have two sets of crimping dies. You can tell that the crimping die for the tips sees a lot more miles than the hex crimp, because I buy the pre-crimped end caps.
The first puts a hex crimp in the ferrules, and the second puts a beautiful crimp on both brake and derailleur cable tips:
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01-31-21, 08:49 PM
#34
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01-31-21, 08:56 PM
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There is one reason I know of to crimp housing ferrules. Sometimes when you turn the bars on a road bike you'll hear ticking caused by the the ends of the parallel shift housing wires walking inside the ferrules in the frame stops. Crimping the ferrules can eliminate the ticking if you're bothered by it.
01-31-21, 09:03 PM
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Doing a proper job after cutting the cable outer will keep them from clicking - what you are hearing is the end of the cable rocking back-and-forth in its seat because it wasn't finished square. I usually take a file to the cut ends - make sure you file the far side of the cable to keep debris from falling in the liner.
Last edited by Looigi; 01-31-21 at 09:16 PM.
02-01-21, 06:52 AM
#37
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I have never crimped a ferule. What's the point when cable tension holds it all together?
02-02-21, 07:50 AM
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02-02-21, 09:31 AM
#39
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I don't use ferrules but when I installed them in a shop I used a small amount of Pliobond glue on the cable housing and slid the ferrule in place. Worked like a charm without a crimp. It looked professional and clean and no chance of over-crimping the housing. Plus, if you need to remove one, it can be removed with a little heat from a Bic lighter.
02-02-21, 10:52 AM
#40
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I don't use ferrules but when I installed them in a shop I used a small amount of Pliobond glue on the cable housing and slid the ferrule in place. Worked like a charm without a crimp. It looked professional and clean and no chance of over-crimping the housing. Plus, if you need to remove one, it can be removed with a little heat from a Bic lighter.
02-02-21, 03:20 PM
#41
Senior Member
Yeah. Proper square end is good, but not what I'm referring to. I'm referring to the cable housing rotating, not rocking, in the ferules. It depends on the the cables and how the bike has them routed. They can have perfectly square ends done on a cut-off wheel, and still creak if they rotate when the bars are turned.
