El Gato27

I know different grease types are better for different riding conditions, but is there one grease that performs better in regards to rolling resistance?
I've used generic valvoline lubricating grease for years and it seems to work fine for fair weather riding, I don't ride in the rain or snow.
But lately I've been wondering is there are differences in grease performance. Thanks.

trailangel

Phil Wood

cny-bikeman

The effect of grease on rolling resistance is not worth even considering.

Ghrumpy

Great name-drop non-answer.

Grease is (perhaps a bit over-simplifying) oil mixed in an emulsion with soap. The oil provides lubrication. The soap helps provide stability and shear resistance. The differences in relative "viscosity" are significant, but the differences in "rolling resistance" are probably not.

Straight light oil has the lowest "rolling resistance" but the lack of stability leads to the oil seeping (from gravity) out the lowest point of the assembly. Track racers who might need tenths of seconds in races that last only a few minutes, will often use such oils to lube their hubs and BBs. Not great for bikes who only see overhauls every year or so.

Thick, stable greases (like Phil Wood or Park Tools) are, on the other hand, a good solution for situations where extreme water resistance is necessary. Frankly not really necessary for normal bike use.

So Phil grease will be overkill for applications such as yours, and straight oil will be insufficient. I'd recommend a white or clear synthetic grease because
a) it will show contamination clearly and
b) is a good consistency that is stable under normal bicycle use conditions. Also does not stain paint (like Phil Wood grease can.)

But yeah, @cny-bikeman is right. Rolling resistance is hardly a consideration.

3alarmer 

...I've used at least 8 or 9 different grease brands on bikes over the years. They all seem to work about the same.
If there is a difference, some are a little thicker and stickier, which helps in putting together loose ball bearing assemblies on older bikes.

But if you're looking for something that is better at reducing rolling resistance, they all work about the same. As already stated above twice.

El Gato27

OK, seems like I'm over thinking this. Thanks.

gsa103

Shimano Dura-Ace is probably what you're looking for.

One of the biggest factors is quantity. Shimano recommends a thin coating while most people say stuff it full.

The rolling resistance isn't zero but it is small, a few W at most.

FBOATSB

"Rancid Bear Grease"™

Sorry, I feel like posting this in every grease/lube thread that comes along
But the rest of your post is spot on

cny-bikeman

This is like deciding whether wind resistance is lower with or without hair gel on one's eyebrows. The biggest mechanical factor by far in rolling resistance is tires, followed by bearing condition and adjustment. I would say they count for over 99% of rolling resistance, which itself is much less a factor than wind resistance, especially at higher speeds. If you want to go faster with less effort then spend your time on the bike, not at the keyboard.

Bandera

It's not 1938 anymore, any modern grease you can find at the big-box store/auto supply/LBS designed for light applications will exceed the lubrication/water resistance/durability required by the low loads & speed of bicycle bearings w/ no measurable difference in "rolling resistance". Regular overhaul of bearing surfaces with fresh grease and proper adjustment of cup/cone bearings are all that are required. Discard and replace cartridge bearings as required.

Test tire pressure per Frank Berto's method to more effectively search for those incremental gains in "rolling resistance".

-Bandera

gsa103

Here's some interesting test data:
https://cyclingtips.com/2016/05/fric...ring-friction/

BLUF: You might save ~2W switching from a high drag to low drag solution, if you do both hubs and the BB. Most of the the it's 0-1W difference.

If you're seriously racing, it's worth at least consideration, depending on riding conditions. For a fair-weather race bike, there's really not downside to a lightweight grease, given that water and wear are likely not a concern. A cyclo-cross bike probably could use boat trailer grease and is still going to need frequent rebuilds.

fietsbob

yes

Note; before the Pros had special time trial bikes for that 1 occasion the mechanics cleaned the hubs,
used oil instead of grease for just that day..
then took them apart again and re greased them for the next days stage race..

shown in old films..

wphamilton

1 or 2 watts is nothing for normal riding, but when I was using some pretty thick heavy duty grease I'm positive that in cold temperatures - for me under 20°F - it was causing additional resistance until it got loosened up.

Leebo

Ok, grumpy it is. What did I buy at the bike store, Phil wood tenacious oil and Phil wood waterproof grease, they seem to work just fine. Would auto grease would just as well? probably, $ 10.00 for a tube that has lasted 10 years. Water resistance like in my commuter, bikepacking and mt biking needs, yup.

Ghrumpy

I'm not sure what you're getting at. I actually said Phil Wood grease is for situations exactly like you describe. But it's not needed for the OP's stated purposes.

But I do say literally any automotive bearing grease is overkill for bicycles. If you happen to have some sitting around, you can certainly use it. But I wouldn't tell anyone to buy a tub just for bikes. Not only is it overkill, but you'd probably never use it up in your lifetime.

And don't read too much into my screen name (or anyone's for that matter.) I'm not an unhappy dwarf.

Viich

I use extreme low temp for my winter bike. I think it's $1 more at Canadian Tire.

79pmooney

Yup, the ritual was done for decades. (Mechanics were not fans of time trials!)

Ben

davidad

This is another example of bike superstition.

Mickey2

I haven't tried Phils grease, but all (!!!) I can find in stores here are synthetic greases; I'm thinking of small tubs and tubes for the average user, not industrial bucket size. Old type greases could separate, seep out a little bit of oil during use, and it could be an advantage. They tended to be on the solid and gooey side, but very durable and smooth between the finger tips. They are hard to find these days.

Synthetic greases are very stable, never separates even on a hot plate. Some have very good specs when it comes to friction testing I have used Finish Line Ceramic Grease a lot and it works well, most of the larger brands have a version of it; Triflow, Weldtite TF2, etc. These are teflon added greases.

I have cleaned and greased old 3 speed hubs, it works well, but I swear, when oiled they run and shift noticeably smoother. Some greases are down right gooey and sticky. If there's an oil cap or hole for lubrication like on vitage bikes, go for oil.

3alarmer 

...bacon fat works OK until you ride past some dogs. Then it's often problematic.

SquidPuppet

Isn't NLGI 2 the same, whether it's marketed for bikes, motorcycles, cars, or trailers? When I say "the same" I'm referring to viscosity. I ask because most bike specific greases are NLGI 2 and most auto bearing greases are as well.

TiHabanero

Aside from a brief and failed foray into Teflon enhanced greased in the 90's, I have always used Phil Wood on my Campi, Shimano, Suntour, etc components. This winter, while working on an unrelated project I found Lucas Tacky Red Grease. The stuff is slippery! Will be using it on the next hub overhaul. As for BB's, get a sealed cartridge and be done with it. They work and last far longer than the typical standard BB.

davidad

I use Lubriplate EMB (electric motor bearing) synthetic.

Ghrumpy

I'm not claiming to be a grease expert (I'd refer you to @Slaninar for that.)

Several of the bicycle greases I have use appear to be more NLGI-1, but I've never noticed any that reference the NLGI number. That refers only to viscosity, and obviously there's more to a grease than its viscosity rating. Bike greases simply don't need the temperature stability that automotive greases do. Let's face it, most bikes really don't need the water-resistance of boat trailer grease either. There are other considerations, as I have said, one important one of which might be color staining, especially of light-colored frames, by dyed greases such as Phil, boat trailer, and probably that Lucas Red 'n' Tacky.

I'm not saying and never said not to use automotive grease. I've only ever said it's overkill for bikes in all but perhaps the most extreme applications.

SquidPuppet

I'm no expert either, that's for sure. I was just curious about your hesitancy to recommend using auto grease on bikes. I agree that it's overkill, meaning "better" than what bike duties require. So I look at it as a good deal, since many auto greases can be had for a fraction of the price of bike specific greases.