Recommend a 27 x 1 1/4 tire for straight-sided rim?
#26
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#27
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I'm running Gatorskins on a pair of 27" Weinmann concave rims. I'm pretty sure they're hookless.
I run them at 100 PSI and haven't had one blow off yet. I weigh about 186 lb.
I bought several pairs recently and found Bike24 had the best prices for quantity, even with international shipping.
Edit: Continental Gatorskins in 27" only come in 27x1 1/4" and have a wire bead.
I run them at 100 PSI and haven't had one blow off yet. I weigh about 186 lb.
I bought several pairs recently and found Bike24 had the best prices for quantity, even with international shipping.
Edit: Continental Gatorskins in 27" only come in 27x1 1/4" and have a wire bead.
Last edited by specialmonkey; 07-27-19 at 09:34 PM.
#28
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Amazon BS!
Why I'm shying away from the Panaracer Pacela Tourguards. Several Amazon reviews say the sidewalls are weak, that they deteriorate and fail in the weather or maybe even indoors. I bought a set some years ago for a bike for my niece. I recall seeing the bike some years later and being negatively impressed at the condition of the tires. And, they didn't appear to be very flat resistant, and I think some reviewers commented on that. Good ride, yes. But without reasonable flat resistance and longevity, no go.
I've been riding Pasela Tourguards since 2007 and have them on at least a dozen bikes in 700c x 23, 25 & 28 plus one bike with 27x1 1/8.
I recently got a small nick in the casing right at the tread line and sidewall on the front tire I've been riding since 2007.
I replaced it with a new Pasela but I'm going to boot the tire and save it for a spare. I've NEVER had a puncture flat with a Tourguard.
One thing that I noticed way back in 2007 was the Pasela tread pattern wore down pretty fast but afterwards you can expect to get at least 3000+ miles out of them.
As far as tire pressure is concerned, I weigh to the north side of 220 and I'd feel comfortable running 27x1 1/4 or 700x32c tires at 80 psi unless I were on a road surface where I could encounter pinch flats.
A lot of roads and trails where I ride have separations in the asphalt parallel to the direction of travel. In the evening or at night it's hard to avoid them. The sidewalls on the Paselas have survived years of riding on those surfaces whereas Continental sidewalls get torn up.
verktyg
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Lots of great info here, thanks everyone! I'm currently looking for tires for my 1984 Trek 620. It has some very old Specialized Touring tires on it now. They are showing some deterioration on the sidewalls, so need to be replaced, but they still ride fantastic. The bike has the original Matrix Anodic T rims. Would these be hooked or not? Thanks.
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Lots of great info here, thanks everyone! I'm currently looking for tires for my 1984 Trek 620. It has some very old Specialized Touring tires on it now. They are showing some deterioration on the sidewalls, so need to be replaced, but they still ride fantastic. The bike has the original Matrix Anodic T rims. Would these be hooked or not? Thanks.
$30 currently on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/panaracer-Pas...F0A?th=1&psc=1
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I'd be surprised if they were not hooked given the age of the bike. Tough to beat pasela pro tite 27 x 1 and 1/4 tires. They'll look right and the they are very good tires.
$30 currently on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/panaracer-Pas...F0A?th=1&psc=1
$30 currently on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/panaracer-Pas...F0A?th=1&psc=1
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I run Paselas on two bikes, and have run them on others in the past. They are great tires - nice rolling, decently durable, and easy mounting (in my experience).
Consider that I live and ride in Northeast PA, a world renowned destination for seemingly unending miles of roads riddled with potholes, cracks, cravasses, craters, and every other tire and ball joint-destroying road hazard imaginable. The Paselas are fine.
Consider that I live and ride in Northeast PA, a world renowned destination for seemingly unending miles of roads riddled with potholes, cracks, cravasses, craters, and every other tire and ball joint-destroying road hazard imaginable. The Paselas are fine.
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I run the Michelin Protek (32-630, 27 x 1 1/4) on my brown 1971 Suburban FIVE SPEED that has the fenders removed.
I run the KENDA K35, I'm fairly certain the model is K35, (32-630, 27 x 1 1/4) on my green 1972 Suburban FIVE SPEED with the original green Schwinn fenders. The Kenda K35 tires on the green bike are the GUMWALL version.
On the ancient Suburban, the MICHELIN tire is slightly larger than the KENDA, as the KENDA K35 provides a lot of clearance for the stock fenders, and the MICHELIN does not. I really like the look of the reflective sidewall band on the Michelin Protek tire on the fenderless brown Suburban five speed. The Michelin tires are directional in that they say mount them in this direction....indicator on them that you will see...................they are heavy tires (their weight in grams...) I seem to believe that they are both slightly wider and taller than the Kenda K35 tires when mounted on my ancient Schwinn rims.
I like the K35 tires. I do make sure to buy heavier thorn-resistant tubes, and I make certain that the inside of the ancient steel Schwinn rims are smooth to the feel with a finger. If there are any tiny rough areas that grab the finger or feel sharp......as the kind of sharp feel that one might get from the fret edges on a new cheap guitar...........lightly sand them smooth with something like 800 grit and if chrome covering is gone in tiny area on inside of the rim where you may have have had to sand smooth a tiny rust spur.......after getting it smooth.....I'll dab on a very tiny bit of fingernail polish to cover the exposed metal and then proceed to put a smooth but thin layer of Epoxy (just the cheapo $1.79 Harbour Freight....part A / part B in tubes that you place two equal small amounts on a paper plate..or whatever, and mix with a golf tee or small stick............then apply over the nailpolish-painted area......let it cure for 24 hours) ........when you're dealing with 45+ year old steel rims, you will have tiny imperfections and slightly larger ones on the inside of the rim from corrosion/rust, even if the outside of the rim that you see looks perfect as far as the chrome and spokes................Many times the area on the underside of the rim, nearest the hole where the Schrader valve stem goes up will be an area that you may wish to smooth out jagged corroded and sharp areas.........................Doing this and making sure the rim strips are in excellent shape will minimize your chances of flats caused by such sharp edges.........................yes, I know it might be overkill to give this much time and attention to detail when simply installing Tubes/Tires on a old common bicycle such as a 45+ year old Schwinn, but you know it isn't much that you have to do, once you have the old tire and tube off............yeah, it will take you a little longer than the normal five minutes that it takes to install the tube and mount the tire............but if you or your spouse will be riding said bicycle....you might as well make certain that you won't get a flat because of a small rough spot on the underside of the rim.....
I may be different than most of you in that I'm not concerned with the weight added by more durable tubes and/or tires, and I prefer to buy the best, most thorn resistant tubes as I find that they are worth it.
I can report that both of these have been flawless on my ancient Suburbans. I'm retired and I am healthy and very fit and I have been averaging between 170 miles and 230 miles per week riding only my small fleet of early to mid 1970's Collegiate and Suburban 5 speeds. So the stay thin, ride a Schwinn is no joke. Even though the KENDA K35 tires are super-inexpensive, they are quality tires for most general purpose applications...................If facing rain or wet......I'd go with something other than the Kenda K35 tires, but for dry pavement, I think they ride nice but remember that I'm riding a heavy Schwinn and it might differ somewhat on a bicycle that weighs just 26 pounds.
I run the KENDA K35, I'm fairly certain the model is K35, (32-630, 27 x 1 1/4) on my green 1972 Suburban FIVE SPEED with the original green Schwinn fenders. The Kenda K35 tires on the green bike are the GUMWALL version.
On the ancient Suburban, the MICHELIN tire is slightly larger than the KENDA, as the KENDA K35 provides a lot of clearance for the stock fenders, and the MICHELIN does not. I really like the look of the reflective sidewall band on the Michelin Protek tire on the fenderless brown Suburban five speed. The Michelin tires are directional in that they say mount them in this direction....indicator on them that you will see...................they are heavy tires (their weight in grams...) I seem to believe that they are both slightly wider and taller than the Kenda K35 tires when mounted on my ancient Schwinn rims.
I like the K35 tires. I do make sure to buy heavier thorn-resistant tubes, and I make certain that the inside of the ancient steel Schwinn rims are smooth to the feel with a finger. If there are any tiny rough areas that grab the finger or feel sharp......as the kind of sharp feel that one might get from the fret edges on a new cheap guitar...........lightly sand them smooth with something like 800 grit and if chrome covering is gone in tiny area on inside of the rim where you may have have had to sand smooth a tiny rust spur.......after getting it smooth.....I'll dab on a very tiny bit of fingernail polish to cover the exposed metal and then proceed to put a smooth but thin layer of Epoxy (just the cheapo $1.79 Harbour Freight....part A / part B in tubes that you place two equal small amounts on a paper plate..or whatever, and mix with a golf tee or small stick............then apply over the nailpolish-painted area......let it cure for 24 hours) ........when you're dealing with 45+ year old steel rims, you will have tiny imperfections and slightly larger ones on the inside of the rim from corrosion/rust, even if the outside of the rim that you see looks perfect as far as the chrome and spokes................Many times the area on the underside of the rim, nearest the hole where the Schrader valve stem goes up will be an area that you may wish to smooth out jagged corroded and sharp areas.........................Doing this and making sure the rim strips are in excellent shape will minimize your chances of flats caused by such sharp edges.........................yes, I know it might be overkill to give this much time and attention to detail when simply installing Tubes/Tires on a old common bicycle such as a 45+ year old Schwinn, but you know it isn't much that you have to do, once you have the old tire and tube off............yeah, it will take you a little longer than the normal five minutes that it takes to install the tube and mount the tire............but if you or your spouse will be riding said bicycle....you might as well make certain that you won't get a flat because of a small rough spot on the underside of the rim.....
I may be different than most of you in that I'm not concerned with the weight added by more durable tubes and/or tires, and I prefer to buy the best, most thorn resistant tubes as I find that they are worth it.
I can report that both of these have been flawless on my ancient Suburbans. I'm retired and I am healthy and very fit and I have been averaging between 170 miles and 230 miles per week riding only my small fleet of early to mid 1970's Collegiate and Suburban 5 speeds. So the stay thin, ride a Schwinn is no joke. Even though the KENDA K35 tires are super-inexpensive, they are quality tires for most general purpose applications...................If facing rain or wet......I'd go with something other than the Kenda K35 tires, but for dry pavement, I think they ride nice but remember that I'm riding a heavy Schwinn and it might differ somewhat on a bicycle that weighs just 26 pounds.
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