Trashed Peugeot Carbolite 103
08-25-18, 02:56 PM
#1
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Trashed Peugeot Carbolite 103
I found this on the curb today and had to snatch it, not sure what I'll do with it. May strip her down and repaint.
08-25-18, 03:54 PM
#2
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Clunker challenge, beater bike, Co-op donor...?
08-25-18, 05:11 PM
#3
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Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
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It is probably a P4 or P6. The frame will have a decent ride when paired with good wheels. Here is my P4 of similar vintage:
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08-25-18, 05:20 PM
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Bike looks like it belonged to a beater, a wife beater, with that handlebar setup. Perfect for riding to DUI and family court custody hearings, preferably while smoking a cigarette. 
.
Should clean up nice though, and ought to take at least 35 mm tires, I would guess.
. Should clean up nice though, and ought to take at least 35 mm tires, I would guess.
08-25-18, 06:22 PM
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08-26-18, 08:36 AM
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After seeing what Aubergine made of one of these lugless frames, I feel some real suspense toward this bike's outcome.
It really does look like it was pulled from the trash (but thankfully not left outside to rust), and my own experience with these later Peugeot models suggests it will be a really good-handling and good-riding bike.
Getting the cotters out without damage can be done with the use of a propane torch after heating to where some smoke is issuing from the big end of the arm when you pull the torch away. The stock cotters are actually of particularly high quality, so best of luck with finding rust-free bearings and with getting the bb and headset parts looking decent.
It really does look like it was pulled from the trash (but thankfully not left outside to rust), and my own experience with these later Peugeot models suggests it will be a really good-handling and good-riding bike.
Getting the cotters out without damage can be done with the use of a propane torch after heating to where some smoke is issuing from the big end of the arm when you pull the torch away. The stock cotters are actually of particularly high quality, so best of luck with finding rust-free bearings and with getting the bb and headset parts looking decent.
08-26-18, 11:18 AM
#7
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Getting the cotters out without damage can be done with the use of a propane torch after heating to where some smoke is issuing from the big end of the arm when you pull the torch away. The stock cotters are actually of particularly high quality, so best of luck with finding rust-free bearings and with getting the bb and headset parts looking decent.
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08-26-18, 11:54 AM
#9
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depshop, good luck and have fun with this rider project! Should turn out great! I'm currently building a Peugeot UO-8 project bike, so I know the excitement.
08-26-18, 12:50 PM
#10
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Spent another 20 minutes or so tearing down today. Both the stem and seat post are pretty well seized. I'll work on it some more tonight or tomorrow after work, should be ready for some sanding soon.
08-27-18, 02:08 PM
#11
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Sorry to bump this but I figured I'd post here instead of making a new thread somewhere else.
Anyone have any advice on removing these guys? They're both pretty well stuck and I don't want to do too much damage trying to remove 'em.
Anyone have any advice on removing these guys? They're both pretty well stuck and I don't want to do too much damage trying to remove 'em.
08-27-18, 02:27 PM
#12
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I am curious on the BB ring removal too - I have one that is stuck and since I won't replace it (just clean up) I kind of gave up already ...
, but still interested in case I want to change the drivetrain in future.
, but still interested in case I want to change the drivetrain in future.
08-27-18, 02:32 PM
#13
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The drive side BB cup is reverse threaded, so you will have to turn it right to loosen it, unless its stuck for some other reason. The stem might be harder if its really stuck. There are tons of thread about what to do about stuck posts elsewhere on the forum, easily searchable and full of information about penetrating oils and techniques and even getting into harsh chemicals and hacksaws if you want to take it that far.
08-27-18, 02:33 PM
#14
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Yeah I was planning on replacing the whole drivetrain but I may just leave the bb ring and tape it off when I'm ready to paint. It's quite brittle and I definitely don't want to strip it out wrenching at it.
08-27-18, 02:36 PM
#15
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The drive side BB cup is reverse threaded, so you will have to turn it right to loosen it, unless its stuck for some other reason. The stem might be harder if its really stuck. There are tons of thread about what to do about stuck posts elsewhere on the forum, easily searchable and full of information about penetrating oils and techniques and even getting into harsh chemicals and hacksaws if you want to take it that far.
08-27-18, 02:44 PM
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Go here and go down to where St. Sheldon writes about his homemade fixed cup tools. I had to do the reverse version of this to remove a thoroughly stuck French Stronglight BB cup from a Gitane. THIS WORKS.
Before doing anything more, is the adjustable cup marked? I thought the Carbolite 103 bikes were after Peugeot went ISO/BSC, but check the adjustable cup first. Assuming it's not like my Mercier 100 where someone just crammed an English threaded adjustable cup into a French threaded frame ...
Before doing anything more, is the adjustable cup marked? I thought the Carbolite 103 bikes were after Peugeot went ISO/BSC, but check the adjustable cup first. Assuming it's not like my Mercier 100 where someone just crammed an English threaded adjustable cup into a French threaded frame ...
08-27-18, 04:37 PM
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If you have a well-anchored bench vise or an 18" adjustable wrench (held from slipping off with a bolt and huge washers), then the cup will twist out (the wrench or vise jaws are probably much softer than the cup!).
This 1980's French bike might have English threading, or possibly French threading (with right-hand threads) at the fixed cup. Swiss threading (with left-hand threads) was also used around 1980, give or take.
This 1980's French bike might have English threading, or possibly French threading (with right-hand threads) at the fixed cup. Swiss threading (with left-hand threads) was also used around 1980, give or take.
08-27-18, 05:12 PM
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These Carbolite bikes are interesting. I have been keeping an eye out for a old Peugeot, like a UO-8. I see these sometimes, however, I see they don't have lugs. I have also seen some forum members with beautiful Carbolite bikes. Like the one from Aubergine. Love the bike, color, seat, accessories, perfect.
So, how do these Carbolite Peugeot's compare to the lugged frames? If I remember correctly most in the US are made in France. Is that correct?
So, how do these Carbolite Peugeot's compare to the lugged frames? If I remember correctly most in the US are made in France. Is that correct?
08-27-18, 06:16 PM
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These Carbolite bikes are interesting. I have been keeping an eye out for a old Peugeot, like a UO-8. I see these sometimes, however, I see they don't have lugs. I have also seen some forum members with beautiful Carbolite bikes. Like the one from Aubergine. Love the bike, color, seat, accessories, perfect.
So, how do these Carbolite Peugeot's compare to the lugged frames? If I remember correctly most in the US are made in France. Is that correct?
So, how do these Carbolite Peugeot's compare to the lugged frames? If I remember correctly most in the US are made in France. Is that correct?
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08-27-18, 06:18 PM
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Go here and go down to where St. Sheldon writes about his homemade fixed cup tools. I had to do the reverse version of this to remove a thoroughly stuck French Stronglight BB cup from a Gitane. THIS WORKS.
Before doing anything more, is the adjustable cup marked? I thought the Carbolite 103 bikes were after Peugeot went ISO/BSC, but check the adjustable cup first. Assuming it's not like my Mercier 100 where someone just crammed an English threaded adjustable cup into a French threaded frame ...
Before doing anything more, is the adjustable cup marked? I thought the Carbolite 103 bikes were after Peugeot went ISO/BSC, but check the adjustable cup first. Assuming it's not like my Mercier 100 where someone just crammed an English threaded adjustable cup into a French threaded frame ...
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08-27-18, 06:49 PM
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Peugeot's lower/mid level frame geometry went to the sporting side in 1979, on what were at the time still lugged frames. I would call this an improvement as the seattube angle became steeper and the headtube relaxed a bit, somewhat along the lines of the trends in triathlon bikes.
The later lugless frames became lighter yet, but retained similar sportier geometry. They are all great riders imo.
In 1979 the new (lugged, Carbolite) UO9 received the Super Sport moniker, and was of course lighter and sportier than the old-fashioned 1978 model UO9 (which I promptly sold after buying a 1979 model).
Of course I bought both bikes decades later than the 70's, but was able to compare them day to day for a while. There was little similarity and I found the newer model was more fun to use for spirited riding.
I decided to give a lugless PH501 a try last year and found that despite an alignment defect with the rear dropouts (since inelegantly corrected) that the bike rides as well as most more-expensive road bikes.
The later lugless frames became lighter yet, but retained similar sportier geometry. They are all great riders imo.
In 1979 the new (lugged, Carbolite) UO9 received the Super Sport moniker, and was of course lighter and sportier than the old-fashioned 1978 model UO9 (which I promptly sold after buying a 1979 model).
Of course I bought both bikes decades later than the 70's, but was able to compare them day to day for a while. There was little similarity and I found the newer model was more fun to use for spirited riding.
I decided to give a lugless PH501 a try last year and found that despite an alignment defect with the rear dropouts (since inelegantly corrected) that the bike rides as well as most more-expensive road bikes.
Last edited by dddd; 08-27-18 at 07:10 PM.
08-27-18, 08:41 PM
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Get some Kroil penetrating oil in there and let it soak for a little while. That stuff is like magic. I use it all the time on seized nuts and bolts on cars (I live in the rusty Northeast), and it works wonders. It has a way of creeping into the threads.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F09CEA...ing=UTF8&psc=1
By the way, kudos to you for working on that old Peugeot. I think it'll reward you if you bring it back.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F09CEA...ing=UTF8&psc=1
By the way, kudos to you for working on that old Peugeot. I think it'll reward you if you bring it back.
09-01-18, 09:08 PM
#25
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Sheldon trick worked great - only problem (minor) I had is that the lock split washers got enlarged as I tightened the nut and became the size of bb diameter .
Couldn't find flat washers with small outer diameter for a 5/8 bolt.
.Couldn't find flat washers with small outer diameter for a 5/8 bolt.
Last edited by phtomita; 09-01-18 at 09:41 PM.