imobilinpedalus

So while the red loctite seems to work its magic, i am moving forwards and can administer to less pressing concerns. I recently decided to clean out the hub and re grease with the Park Tool green fluorescent tube grease and removed the cassette from my 28" rear wheel to get in there. I do this maybe once every year. After reassembling the wheel, there is one thing that i really need you guys advice on. That long bolt that runs through the wheel hub has one side with a few pretty darned tightly fitted nuts. The other side has the nut that you`re supposed to tighten the hub assembly altogether. If i tighten the bolt too hard (with my fingers), as long as the rear wheel is turning, the crank arms will "follow" in a spiral like if i was cycling. If i only mildly tighten this bolt i can spin the rear wheel without having the crank arms following. Right now i have cycled maybe 10 miles in sun and rain hoping this syndrome would let up. It has not. So am i really supposed to only very lightly tighten this bolt before i move on and install the cassette? Or is it ok to have a bike that has this syndrome assuming this will not correct itself within a few days or weeks or even months. Thankyou for any good advice

2nd question. I need a high quality grease for my steering wheel upper and lower bearings. It seems to be much thicker and tackier than the above mentioned Park Tool grease. I don`t really know what i am looking for here, so some advice would be greatly appreciated

Bjoern in Norway

Bill Kapaun

Typically, I tighten the DS cone/locknut much tighter than the NDS.
When I want to service the bearings, I remove the NDS cone/locknut and pull the axle out the DS.
I simply never remove the DS cone/locknut. (unless the cone is bad)
This avoids having to recenter the cone/locknuts on the axle to get equal protrusion on the ends.
I do remove the cassette first.

Your grease will work fine.

bikeman715

This might help , Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Hub Overhaul and Adjustment .

dabac

What you should be doing is something called "bearing adjustment". And to do that right on a cup & cone hub you do need to use a cone wrench.
The Park tool link that bikeman posted should set you right.

fietsbob

yes probably need a 15mm cone wrench + a 17mm box combo? for the locknut. (13mm is common cone wrench for the front)

the end inside the Cassette is hard to get to once the axle is in the freehub, so Get it tight .. then slip the axle in the hub with the greased bearing balls in place

you do the bearing preload adjustment on the easier to access non Drive side ..

remember the adjustment is even tighter with the QR closed, so a fine tuning of just right on that is something you have to learn ..

alcjphil

What is not clear is whether the Op knows the difference between a nut and a bolt

imobilinpedalus

Assuming the DS is the side that holds the cassette, it goes without saying that i only remove the nut that sits in this end of the cone bolt.
I am not at all considering removing the nuts from the other side as these seem to almost be glued in place. So that right there means when i reintroduce the cone to the hub, the protruding on each side will be the very same as before. Right?! Sure my grease will work fine, but "fine" is not quite what i had in mind

As far as bearing adjustment, i have no idea what that is. I slapped it back together and it works as before. Cone wrench? Well let`s just say thanks for the linkie..

bikeman715

The drive side ( the right side ) of the hub should be the one "glued in place " as you stated . You right about your thinking but it should be the cassette side of the wheel . With the cassette side being lock (glued in place ) then any adjustment for play can be done to the other side . When adjusted then you can lock or glued that side too . As far as your grease goes it one of the best grease to use on your bike .

imobilinpedalus

So you`re telling me the "head" of the cone bolt that has the "fixed" nut array is supposed to be on the side where the cassette is ??

bikeman715

Yes , that what I saying .

FastJake

OP - in your original post, were you talking about removing the freehub body and putting it back on? Check out this link for more info on cassette hubs: Shimano Cassettes & Freehubs

imobilinpedalus

Well in that case i can safely say we are not communicating very well together. On my rear wheel the cone bolt (the long bolt that runs through the length of the hub) has the "fixed nut array" on the opposite side of the cassette side. The NDS if i understand correctly.

I don`t think this varies from one wheel to another wheel. It would be nice for someone here to please tell me how tight or "loose" the DS
nut is supposed to be. This is still something i have not seen an answer to here. Forget everything i just wrote. It seems i have had the cone the wrong way all along, ugh. Ugh. Ugh.

FastJake

I think you're talking about cone adjustment, and the answer is that there should be a tiny amount of play before the quick release skewer is closed, and that play should vanish when you tighten the wheel down. Does that make any sense?

Here is a really great article on cone adjustment: Cone Adjustment

ksisler

Bill Kapaun; Ditto and +10. While I never really realized I was doing it consistently until now, but indeed I have always done mine exactly as you have detailed here. Basically it works, it precludes extra work, and it produces a consistently correct axle/bearing alignment as you noted.

/K

hueyhoolihan

both lock nuts should be tightened about the same amount against the cone. i've never heard anyone discuss tightening them, purposely to different amounts. they serve to hold the cones in place on the axle.

WRT the crank turning when the rear wheel is freewheeling, IME, it just means that the crank bearings are running with less friction than the unloaded freewheel bearings. and one or the other is always going to win that race.

you may benefit from an exploded view of a shimano rear hub and it's freehub and an explanation of how it works. the link a previous post is excellent.

79pmooney

I have been tightening the DS more than the NDS forever. This allows me to grab the DS locknut with a cone wrench. Then I know if I have spun the axle while I mess with the cone and locknut on the NDS. And sometimes, you need 3 hands. Nice when you can use either the locknut or the cone on the DS with that third hand without worrying about unlocking that side. (My third hand is not very agile, It needs all the help it can get, And, no, it is not to be confused with those brake "third hands".)

Ben

Bill Kapaun

What's a "cone bolt"?
Using proper terminology is normally half the battle.
I doubt it in this case though.

desconhecido 

Probably does. Much better English than my Norwegian so I'll cut op some slack on not getting the correct English words.

FastJake

I was going to offer this as well since his English is very good. But it's his bicycle terminology that is difficult to understand. And that's something that comes from native and non-native English speakers alike. Some reading through Sheldon Brown's bicycle glossary would go a long way if his goal is to be able to speak about this stuff fluently in English.

desconhecido 

Sure, I don't disagree. The thing is, though, that when someone learns a new language, a lot of technical and mechanical terminology, jargon, vocabulary, never gets mentioned. I've had some experience with professional technical translators and even they (the ones who are not native English speakers) get the English translations wrong sometimes.

Bill Kapaun

The OP has had multiple links offered to him that have the correct terminology.
Their refusal to adapt indicates they aren't even looking at them.

"Assuming the DS is the side that holds the cassette, it goes without saying that i only remove the nut that sits in this end of the cone bolt."


"I am not at all considering removing the nuts from the other side as these seem to almost be glued in place."

"As far as bearing adjustment, i have no idea what that is"

The OP asks for help and then absolutely refuses to do as suggested.

woodcraft

I like the term 'cone bolt'

Say it five times fast....

imobilinpedalus

Shees you guys, i`m completely new to all these english bicycle terminologies and i don`t mean to pretend i know them all by heart just yet. The links are great, but i need some downtime to sift through those. I was presuming you would bear with me here while i speak my engl-ish mechanical language. And with all these terms, i guess i felt like doing a little bit of a revolting here, hahaha... But i do want to learn them

Off to work it goes..

imobilinpedalus

Ok i get it, it`s not called a cone bolt. Just the axle that holds a cone on each side. The word cone i imagine derives from its conical shape. Makes sense. I`m ever so slighlty lazy, so it might take me a day or two to straighten things out between me and my bicycle. Easter is a welcome time to spend some of that elbow grease;-) I`m currently reading up on the cone adjustment link and i get the distinct feeling that my cone adjustment is off. Probably slightly too tight. It says little about the symptoms for a too tightly fitted cone, but i bet the most easily observed symptom for this as i previously mentioned is, my crank arms will "follow" long as the rear wheel is turning freely. The interaction between the cone adjustment and the quick release mechanism is an interesting point. Will be fun to observe how freely my rear wheel will spin after i install the wheel axle the correct way. I`m not so sure i need another "speciality" tool for adjusting any of my cones though. Thanks for the links btw, they were really helpful.

Bjoern in Norway

FastJake

This is still a little strange to me. It sounds like you're having a problem with the freewheeling mechanism in your cassette body. Which should not be affected by the cone adjustment. But I suppose if you crank down the cones way too much it might be enough to stiffen up the freehub mechanism.