grannygears

Hello there, I am a recreational bike rider and mainly do it for commuting and fitness. For 8 months out of the year I am able to ride my comfort hybrid 8kms or about 5-6 miles to and from work. I also will hop on it and go for a few hours or 10-30 miles a couple of times per week. I am interested in buying a gravel bike or "all road" bike to do these tasks mentioned above. My terrain is mostly paved roads and bike paths and also some packed gravel trails and gravel roads. I would say my future looks like 60% road and 40% gravel going forward with recreational fitness and commuting to work. I DONT foresee myself packing this bike up and going for a week long bike trip with tents and food and gear. If anything maybe an overnighter and 100 miles in 2 days living out of a backpack. I don't ever see myself riding singletrack mountain biking trails with this bike so please take that into account.


My budget next spring is going to be about $2000 US dollars or $2500 Canadian dollars, this seems to put me directly in line with an aluminum frame bike with carbon fork and Shimano 105 components. Here in Canada there seems to be about a $500 difference between the most expensive 105 bike (Trek ALR-5) and the cheapest (Giant Revolt 0). I do know that all these bikes im going to mention include Shimano 105 derailers but I do see some differences in hydraulic brakes vs mechanical brakes vs 105 cranks and gearing vs FSA gearing and cranks. I am going to mention the the list of bikes im considering here in Canada at my local shops and a short summary of what I know about it.


Trek Checkpoint ALR-5 ($2650 CDN) Made in USA, Full Shimano 105 offering including 105 hydraulic disk brakes, carbon fork, being 105 crank and gearing im assuming this is a full road gearing system, not easier so to speak? Pretty horizontal top tube, aggressive and simular to cyclocross or road?


Cannondale Topstone 105 ($2300 CDN) Based in USA? Shimano 105 derailleurs, 105 hydraulic disc brakes, FSA crank and gearing, is this going to be "easier" gears than full 105?


Specialized Diverge E5 Comp ($2559 CDN) Based in USA? 105 derailleurs, but has Praxxas Alba crankset? carbon fork, this bike has Tektro Spyre mechanical disk brakes is this a huge point against this bike for the money not having hydraulic for $2500?


Devinci Hatchet 105 ($2400 CDN) Fully manufactured and based in Canada, 105 derailleurs, carbon fork, I think it has 105 brake levers but not sure if its hydraulic brakes or mechanical? it has FSA Vero crank, the geometry of this fram is very lax and almost looks like mtb geometry is this too lax?


Giant Revolt 0 ($2199 CDN) Based in Taiwan, says composite fork what is this not carbon? All 105 components including derailleurs, brakes, levers and shifters. Praxis Albe crankset, not too sure about the d-fuse seatfost looks gimmichy and im not sure im crazy about the way it adjusts.


I understand that the first and foremost importance is fit and I do intend to go and look at all of these bikes and narrow it down that way. I want to make a short list of bikes the best spec'd ones for the money I can get. please let me know if something sticks out to you regarding bang for your buck or not spec'd as well as it should be for the money? I am also interested in any other suggestions keeping in mind that im from Canada and im not able to order boutique bikes im more of a slave to the big manufacturers.


My last main question is regarding gearing, I have NEVER owned a bike with road gearing or drop bars so im foreign to the way they are set up. I think I am looking for a 2X system meaning two rings in the front? If im looking at a bike with 105 cranksets and gearing does that mean they are basically road bike gears and not going to have that easy granny gear for steep climbing? I know that with a 2X system That allows me to have very small and minor gear changes vs BIG jumps? This I think would be better for me as most of the riding im doing is on pavement and packed gravel. with the bikes that I have listed above is there big differences in gearing, are some bikes full road gearing or hard gearing vs mountain bike gearing or easier for climbs?


Thanks again for your help and I look forward to any help you can offer. Cheers

ksryder

They're all good bikes. Get the one that you like the most on your test ride.

edited to add: don't overanalyze gearing. Either you'll get used to it, or it can be changed easily enough once you have some miles under you and have a better idea of what you want.

tyrion

Yes, you've identified one of the significant differences between the bikes you've listed. The 105 crank has 50-34 chainrings, which gives higher gearing than many gravel bikes, which have 48-32 or 46-30 chainrings. For commuting and recreation I think chainrings smaller than 50-34 would be preferable.

mstateglfr 

Of what you list, I would say Cannondale Topstone. The drivetrain is quality and good for what you need. The sub-compact crank gearing will give you plenty of range to go fast and also climb. This wide range is especially helpful on gravel since the road surface is 'slower' than pavement and requires a bit more gearing range, and is also good for commuting since the heavier you pack a bike, the more you use the bailout gearing.
The Topstone has rack mounts for commuting or doing that possible overnighter.


To speak on gearing- I dont find road gearing to be especially helpful for commuting or gravel riding. I just dont need the higher gear range of a road setup for commuting and gravel. I use a 46 tooth chainring as my large chainring instead of the common paved road rings that are 50 or 52 tooth. If I had a 50 or 52 tooth ring, I would use the small cogs of the cassette less and also shift into the small ring of the crank more often. Basically, I would rarely use a 50-11 combo. Its a waste to me, so why have it?
a 46 tooth large chainring still gives plenty of top end speed, more than most amateur cyclists can handle for any extended period of time. And if you go with a smaller overall crankset, then you have a small 30 tooth ring which then gives you easier gearing for climbing. A 30t ring with an cassette that goes up to 34t will be a great bailout range for most cyclists in most situations.


Also for what its worth- the Trek, Cannondale, and Specialized are all made in Taiwan or China. You list a couple as made in the US, but that is no longer the case.

grannygears

Ok great, so you see I have learned something today! A (50/34) crankset is going to be "road bike" gearing and better for going fast on pavement.

I do anticipate biking on gravel half the time so we're saying a 48/32 or 46/30 will be more preferable for me?

Will I ever max that gearing out when traveling downhill on pavement?

mstateglfr 

You can certainly use a 50/34 on gravel and many do just that. It isn't inappropriate, just want to make sure that's understood. It's simply not ideal/necessary for many(most?) amateur cyclists.

I really dont spin out when going down hills on 46/11 gearing. I can pedal that at 100rpm and am going fast enough down a hill that it's better to just tuck and control my line at that point. I've gone 45mph on pavement- tucking is just better at some point well before that speed.

tyrion

With a 46t chainring and 11t cog you'll be able to pedal 40+mph on the right downhill.

grannygears

Understood, this is fantastic information and something that I most definitely would have overlooked. I do know that I do not want road bike gearing, that is for sure. To give you guys an idea of what I am doing right now I am currently commuting on my four-year-old Trek verve 3 with 35mm tires. The maximum speed that I achieved this year while going downhill on pavement was 39 kilometres per hour or 24 mph. I was in my big ring and the hardest gearing to achieve this and it's only for a very small period of time during my commute.

My brother-in-law is about the same age as me and same fitness level and he has a specialized diverge sport. We will be up north at the cottage where there are some hilly gravel roads. He has already taken measures to swap out the rear cassette to make his gearing easier and the specialized diverge sport is 48 / 32.

I am 37 years old and in pretty good shape but I have no delusions about my fitness level or the terrain that I ride and I do want to make things easier on myself. I will likely be running 38 mm tires maybe even 40 mm on my new bike. I will NOT be riding this bike on singletrack mountain bike trails.

chas58

I agree with the above - 46t is plenty. I do some race training where I have to do a good pull at up to 40mph to stay in the pack, and I'm still doing good. Most of the time over 30mph I'm costing and keeping up fine on the downhills - its a pretty aggressive group accelerating near 40mph on a downhill (cat 2-3).

If I'm riding on my own, I'm happy with the 36t chainring. Does everything I want (and I'm costing if I'm getting near 30mph on a downhill). I've heard that pedaling over 30mph ends up causing more drag from messing up the airflow than it is usually worth.

For bikes - pick the one that fits you the most comfortably. Certainly it should be able to clear 40mm tires. Tire clearance and fit are two things you can't change very much.

grannygears

Yes, but if I am spending $2500 CDN on a gravel bike I do want to try and "nail it" on the first try.

If I chose a 50/34 gravel bike like a Trek Topstone or Devinci Hatchet I will most certainly want to make the gearing easier. How much easier can I make a 50/34 bike by just swapping out the rear cassette?

If I picked a 48/32 bike like the Specialized Diverge or Giant Revolt can I make it alot easier by swapping the rear cassette?

I'm assuming to swap out the crankset from a 50/34 to a 46/30 I have to buy new cranks, rings and bottom brackets?

I would really like to avoid having to spend another $300 - $400 on top of the sticker price just to get the gearing I want.

tyrion

$145 US.

https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-GR...0-2-Crankset-5

I believe that crankset can simply replace a 105 crankset, and no other parts would be required. Then you might be able to sell your near new 105 crank for half that.

edit: oops, just saw this from the above page: "All GRX cranksets also use a new, +2.5mm chainline for increased tire and frame clearance." Not sure what the ramifications of that are.

good4u

Cannondale Topstone 105 crank is listed as FSA Omega ME alloy, 46/30 on Cannondale USA site. Is it different in Canada?

CasualInSoCal

For a gravel bike I'd want a 46x30 chain ring, from the factory. I don't want the hassle of having to switch it out myself.

That Canondale Topstone looks really nice. Cheaper too since it's alloy.

Helderberg

I rode a Specialized, sorry do not remember the model, and a Topstone. Ended up with the Topstone as it just fit me and how I ride. Your choices are all good and my advice would be to try to get a decent time to test ride all of them. I have found that a five minute ride around the parking lot really doesn't give you enough time. I have a 50t gear on my flatbar and the 46 on my Topstone and at my fitness level I am not seeing a topspeed problem. I do appreciate the 46 on the gravel bile as I appreciate the close ratio with the rear cogs. Again what fits you is the important part of your equation.
Frank.

grannygears

The Canadian version of the Topstone 105 is the exact same as the US version, FSA Omega ME Alloy 46/30

Roadrash3

I have owned the diverge, a salsa warbird, a trek road bike and now the giant revolt. If you are riding slightly more road like you describe. go with the revolt. I have been happy with it, it is a rocket. More road bike oriented I feel like. When I got some extra cash I got some nice industry nine carbon wheels with road tires to swap back and forth. Handles awesome and has a good warranty. Also they don't call their stuff carbon, they call it composite. My second choice would probably be the trek, but I don't like the rear slider on the axle. I feel like its something else to loosen up on a ride.

grannygears

Thank you very much for all of your suggestions this far! I spent 2 hours at my local shop yesterday who are a Trek, Cannondale and Giant dealer. I got to standover and ride a 56cm and 58cm Trek Checkpoint ALR-5. I found the 58cm too long and I was too stretched out in the cockpit, elbows were locked out and spine had a bad curve to reach the huds.

The 56cm definitely fit me better but if anything I thought it was a tad bit small in the standover height and I did feel that I was in a more aggressive "road" position.

I then got to ride a Cannondale Topstone 105 in size Large and loved it! My riding position felt a bit more upright than the Trek and a bit more comfortable. The standover height was perfect and the dealer said they can flip the stem around to positive to give me a few degrees or cm more upright in the stem.

I am looking forward to trying the Giant Revolt when they get them in stock and I might try to find a Specialized diverge too but I loved what I saw from the Cannondale Topstone 105!

I should also mention that I am 6"1' and I have a 84cm inseam.

loheiman

I would suggest to not use the standover height as a measure of fit. Definitely make sure you can standover it but I think manufacturers have been sloping top tubes to make them "fit" a wider range of riders.

dwmckee

A 58 would be the expected size for your height.

grannygears

I didn't really feel comfortable on the 56cm or 58cm Trek Checkpoint ALR-5. The 58cm was apparent to me that I was too stretched out and my elbows were locked with a terrible curve in my spine. The 56cm Trek felt better to me but I also didn't feel that comfortable on it.

The Cannondale Topstone size Large felt like it was a good in between. The standover height was perfect and I could comfortably reach the huds with no issues, slight bend in the elbows and a straight spine.

It was very apparent to me that the 58cm Trek had a very long cockpit for me and I didn't like how stretched out I was.

David Scott

The D-Fuse seat post on the Revolt is actually quite good. I've had both a Revolt and currently have an Anyroad with it. Gives a really good ride and the D shape prevents it from twisting.

The one thing that would hold me back from buying the 2020 Revolt 0 is that you can only get it in beige. Like, 70's Plymouth beige.

Metieval

ramification of needing the GRX front derailleur

Metieval

The Alloy Revolt I test road squeaked badly. I think It was the saddle rails. A combo of the seat post flexing, with my weight on the saddle. I am not sure, maybe it just wasn't tight enough. However it Proves that the D-fuse will flex.

grannygears

Can you guys please take a look at this bike. A local dealer that I have close to me has Norco and he recommended this bike. Norco is a Canadian brand but this bike seems to be a steal for $2399 Canadian.

It's called the NORCO SEARCH XR A1

Sorry I can't post any links until I have 10 posts under my belt, LoL.

Full GRX components with 46/30 front cranks and GRX hydro disc brakes.

To give you guys an idea the Cannondale Topstone 105 is $2300 CDN, The Trek Checkpoint ALR-5 is $2650.

This Norco fits right in my budget and seems like it's spec'd very well!

Metieval

ohh alloy XR now, nice!
see if you can go test ride one.