Campagnolo veloce compatibility
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Campagnolo veloce compatibility
Hi new to the forum so i don't know id i am posting in the correct place.
I currently have an olympia khers with campagnolo veloce 10sp. What do i really need to change so i can make it an 11sp ? . i have some credit on the store so, i can go athena 11sp without 11sp crankset with as low as 170 euro, but the store told me that i really need to go with an 11sp crankset as well. So what do i really need to change so i go with 11sp. Need feedback from people that actually done this please. Thanks in advance
I currently have an olympia khers with campagnolo veloce 10sp. What do i really need to change so i can make it an 11sp ? . i have some credit on the store so, i can go athena 11sp without 11sp crankset with as low as 170 euro, but the store told me that i really need to go with an 11sp crankset as well. So what do i really need to change so i go with 11sp. Need feedback from people that actually done this please. Thanks in advance
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10 speed crankset works just fine with 11 speed. I am using a 10 speed centaur compact with an Athena 11 groupset. Have ridden multiple century rides including La Marmotte with this setup, no problem at all. I have also read that a 10 speed rear derailleur works with an 11 speed cassette, and plan to test that as well. At the very least you need the brifters.
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What kingfishr said with one caveat. 11s groupset...or any 11s groupset with our 10s Veloce crank will shift fine. I have run this combo and likely thousand(s) of others as well so your shop is wrong.
But running a 10s Campy derailleur with a 11s Campy or Shimano cassette...all 11s speed cassettes have about the same cog spacing...with 10s Campy derailleur isn't advised. It will shift but it will be less than optimum and optimum is why you buy Campy in the first place.
HTH
But running a 10s Campy derailleur with a 11s Campy or Shimano cassette...all 11s speed cassettes have about the same cog spacing...with 10s Campy derailleur isn't advised. It will shift but it will be less than optimum and optimum is why you buy Campy in the first place.
HTH
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If you use a 10 speed crank you should not switch the front derailleur, the 11 speed derailleur is narrower and you will have chain rub between the large and small gears on your cassette. I know from experience, and went from the Athena 11 speed to a Centaur 10 speed front derailleur.
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hmm, now you threw a wrench into the gears. Officially the 11 speed rear derailleur is speced at a max gear of 29 teeth. I have read that it will work with a 30, but I would not take for granted that it will work with 32. It might, but then you should probably be very careful to avoid cross-chaining.
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shimano ultegra gives the option 11-32
Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 Speed Road Cassette | Chain Reaction Cycles
but if its not safe i will go with 11-29
Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 Speed Road Cassette | Chain Reaction Cycles
but if its not safe i will go with 11-29
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shimano ultegra gives the option 11-32
Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 Speed Road Cassette | Chain Reaction Cycles
but if its not safe i will go with 11-29
Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 Speed Road Cassette | Chain Reaction Cycles
but if its not safe i will go with 11-29
Take a hard look at why you need a 32t rear sprocket. Run a 34t chainring in front if you need the climbing gear inches. My personal favorite Ultegra 11s rear cassette is 28-11. If I go climbing, I don't change the rear cassette. I put the 34t small chainring on my Campy UltraTorque Compact crank. Normally I run 50-38 in front which also climbs well. If I do a really hilly 100 mile ride, the 34t goes on because the hills get harder late into the ride.
Good luck.
#10
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I'd be pretty careful of running a 10s crankset with 11s, and I think the store were right to recommend 11s crank set with 11s system.
They will have taken into account:
1. it is perfectly possible to get an 11s chain jammed between the inner and outer rings of a 10s cranket - the clue is given by the respondent who says that the 11s derailleur cage is narrower than a 10 (true) and that if you use it you will get chain-scrape (also true in many but not all cases - depends on cassette sizes and length of rear triangle and exact position of FD relative to seat tube). The reason that you get the scrape where it does occur is because the centrelines of a pair of 10s ring's teeth are further apart than those of an 11s crankset. As luck would have it, just the right distance, in fact, to accept an 11s chain.
2. Campag spent a lot of money will 11s re-profiling the FD as well as the back of the big chainring to allow easier shifting with less need to back off pedalling (although some "declutching" is still needed) - like Campy4Life said, you go for Campag to get the optimum, so why settle for less?
3. The store will know (and it may and may not be important to the OP) that if a 10 and an 11s system are mixed, in the event of a problem that would otherwise have fallen under materials, workmanship or function warranty, the Service Centre *can* say "no". In practice we don't often (partly because users generally heed advice and partly because warranty is comparatively rare anyway) - but it is a risk.
4. The store has to think about it's own liability in this. If the OP were to have a shift problem, then it falls to the store to sort it out if they advised that it would work. If the OP were to get his chain jammed and the chain were then to damage the paiintwork on his frame, the store could be held liable for that. too. If, in an extreme (and thankfully very unlikely) circumstance, the OP were to end up under the no.84 bus because he was looking down at his gears, mis-shifting because of an incorrect specification advised by the store, then the store could very easily be held to be at fault.
Campagnolo, like Shimano and SRAM spend a lot of money - if you include team sponsorship, which is part of R and D, millions of Euro - on designing and building systems that, provided they are used within the general frame specifications that they (in this case Campag) set, will always set up and work. The minute anyone steps outside of any element of that system or frame spec, they are on their own in the sense that it may and may not work, or it may and may not work as well as Campag say it will - partly that is a function of how we define "work" anyway - I regularly see bikes that I am assured are "fine" but there is no way I'd tolerate how poorly they shift, brake, steer etc ... yes there are times that it will work well enough, or even as well as it should - but there are times when it doesnt work as well, or just doesn't work at all - so why take the risk?
So for the sake of saving the cost of a crankset and a FD, I'd say go for the full group in the confidence that it will work, so long as it's set up correctly, exactly as it should ...
Hope that hasn't muddied the waters too badly
Graeme
Velotech Cycling Ltd
Campagnolo main SC, UK
Last edited by gfk_velo; 01-18-15 at 06:23 PM.