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What's the deal with heliomatic hubs?

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What's the deal with heliomatic hubs?

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Old 04-12-11, 09:59 PM
  #51  
Captain Blight
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Helicomatic hub portions holds up just fine with good grease and one caveat. Check for bearing slop frequently and don't be stingy with new ball bearings. Freewheel sprocket issues are certainly as previously stated; and the caveat I have is that the lack of dish causes the drive-side 'pull' spokes to want to snap, especially if you're a heavier rider. It is, however, very easy to replace a spoke by the side of the road. If you oil your spoke nips when building the wheel, you can unscrew the broken spoke from the njipple and you won't even have to deflate your tire.
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Old 04-12-11, 10:21 PM
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Oh man, I'm glad this thread was resurrected.

So, my girlfriend has a set of matching wheels with Helicomatic hubs that, I believe, are original to her 82 Trek 560. They are in really great condition but we are planning on biking across the US this summer and I've been worrying about having those wheels on there for thousands of miles. Do you guys think it would be wise to get a different, more common, wheelset? The bike came with all the tools to take the hub apart but even if we can get it apart finding replacement parts will be darn near impossible while on the road.
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Old 04-12-11, 10:45 PM
  #53  
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So carry a few dozen extra bearings and a couple-three extra cones with you. The hubs are a drug on the market on Ebay, you can pick them up literally for five bucks apiece. Buy them, salvage the cones and bearings if they're in good shape, polish them up and install them on your shelf, knowing you have the parts you need to keep your good hubs rolling for years to come.

They came as standard equipment on the good old steel Trek touring bikes. That doesn't speak to poor quality and Helicomatics have logged many many thousands of miles. Just... be aware that they have their quirks. If you wiegh much more than about 180 lb, though, consider another hub choice.
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Old 04-13-11, 10:01 AM
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I too am glad this thread was resurrected. This past weekend I purchased an 1984 Trek 510 (with these hubs) to serve as a daily driver. I am going to service the hubs along with everything else this weekend...kinda nervous about finding something that will require replacing
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Old 04-13-11, 10:31 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by degan
Oh man, I'm glad this thread was resurrected.

So, my girlfriend has a set of matching wheels with Helicomatic hubs that, I believe, are original to her 82 Trek 560. They are in really great condition but we are planning on biking across the US this summer and I've been worrying about having those wheels on there for thousands of miles. Do you guys think it would be wise to get a different, more common, wheelset? The bike came with all the tools to take the hub apart but even if we can get it apart finding replacement parts will be darn near impossible while on the road.
I would not take a cross country trip with that rear hub!
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Old 04-13-11, 10:35 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by degan
we are planning on biking across the US this summer and I've been worrying about having those wheels on there for thousands of miles. Do you guys think it would be wise to get a different, more common, wheelset? The bike came with all the tools to take the hub apart but even if we can get it apart finding replacement parts will be darn near impossible while on the road.
If the rear hub on her bike fails on the road, and you have to replace it, one issue you will have to address is that new hubs are generally wider than the old ones, and so you will almost certainly need to force out the rear triangle on her bike by "cold setting" (ie. bending it a bit) to fit it. That's not necessarily a problem, although it would slightly alter the authenticity of her vintage bike.
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Old 04-13-11, 01:06 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by jdefran
I too am glad this thread was resurrected. This past weekend I purchased an 1984 Trek 510 (with these hubs) to serve as a daily driver. I am going to service the hubs along with everything else this weekend...kinda nervous about finding something that will require replacing
Make sure you inspect the Helicomatic hub bearings and races very carefully. You might as well just change the bearings to new ones just to be sure as it will be a very cheap thing to do. They had problems with them breaking up. I had two hubsets have their bearings go to hell within the year I bought the bikes they came in. Seems like later Helis did not die on owners as soon/easily and I think they did come out with a sealed bearing version later that was even better.

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Old 04-13-11, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Chombi
Make sure you inspect the Helicomatic hub bearings and races very carefully. You might as well just change the bearings to new ones just to be sure as it will be a very cheap thing to do. They had problems with them breaking up. I had two hubsets have their bearings go to hell within the year I bought the bikes they came in. Seems like later Helis did not die on owners as soon/easily and I think they did come out with a sealed bearing version later that was even better.

Chombi
Thank you, exactly what I was thinking. Coincidently, my LBS and ace hardware are both out of them (don't have enough to complete the job at least) for the time being...probably going to snag them off ebay. Does the grade of stainless steel matter?
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Old 04-13-11, 01:49 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by jdefran
Thank you, exactly what I was thinking. Coincidently, my LBS and ace hardware are both out of them (don't have enough to complete the job at least) for the time being...probably going to snag them off ebay. Does the grade of stainless steel matter?
You must be asking about bearing grades?? Unfortunately, I don't know what "grades" to look for when buying bearings. I always just get them from a reputalbe LBS. Haven't gotten any bad ones....yet. I would think that you would like to find the best quality bearings as many agree that the bearings put in Helis seem to be a bit undersized to start with.
BTW, I don't think bearings are made from stainless steel. They must be some sort of hardened tool steel alloy with maybe a hard chrome finish??

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Old 04-13-11, 07:20 PM
  #60  
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You want chrome steel bearing balls grade 25. I buy mine from ebay seller 'toolsupply'.

~kn
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Old 04-13-11, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by balindamood
IMHO, like most things French, they got it 80% spot-on, but the 20% which they missed sank the boat. The right bearing races were moved outboard slightly, but not enought to really releive rear axle stress like Shimano's freehub. They were small bearings with small cones to fit inside the freewheel. The result is they wear out fast if not kept clean, adjusted and well lubicated. The cones were not especially hard, which only made matters worse. You will not find another set of cones easily. If they are used, they will likely be pitted just like the ones you will be trying to replace.

Under Shimano's system, a.k.a. the freehubs we still have today, they were not bashfull about making the hub/cone thing with a greater diameter, resulting in better bearing life under load and poor operating conditions. Had the Heliocromatic system increased their freewheel internal diameter 1/4 inch, I think they would have fared better becasue they are ALOT easier to service than the traditional screw-on freewheels.
Many of the helicomatic models were designed to work with standard cones, although they use smaller bearing balls on them.
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Old 04-13-11, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Blight
So carry a few dozen extra bearings and a couple-three extra cones with you. The hubs are a drug on the market on Ebay, you can pick them up literally for five bucks apiece. Buy them, salvage the cones and bearings if they're in good shape, polish them up and install them on your shelf, knowing you have the parts you need to keep your good hubs rolling for years to come.

They came as standard equipment on the good old steel Trek touring bikes. That doesn't speak to poor quality and Helicomatics have logged many many thousands of miles. Just... be aware that they have their quirks. If you wiegh much more than about 180 lb, though, consider another hub choice.
Most Helicomatics were designed to use standard axles and cones, but with smaller bearing balls.

Owners can swap their bearings and cones out every year, just to ensure they don't start to pit and wreck the cups with the metal that crumbles out of the pits.

Also, sprockets are worn by stretched chains. Why not keep your chain and sprockets very clean and spring for a new wal-mart chain every year, in order to keep the sprockets alive? It's only five bucks.
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Old 04-15-11, 03:09 PM
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You can get good prices on KMC chains from Amazon or Niagara Cycle. That's a better bet than no-name chains from Walmart.
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Old 05-04-11, 04:21 PM
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The guy at my LBS removed my Heliomatic with a red Peugeot tool he uses on newer bicycles.
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Old 02-28-20, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mazdaspeed
So once again, what do I need to do to this thing to keep it from breaking? Cause at the moment, it probably only has a couple hundred miles on it.
Take the lockring off, remove the freewheel, inspect the bearings, inspect the cones, lube up everything, put it back together (with the right tools), and it should last you indefinitely. Remember to grease the threads on the freewheel lockring to prevent it from siezing into place. Also, take it to LBS to have them service whatever you can't or don't have time for.
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Old 02-28-20, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by garage sale GT
Many of the helicomatic models were designed to work with standard cones, although they use smaller bearing balls on them.
whats the dimensions of the bearings for tge freewheel? I nees replacements.
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Old 02-28-20, 06:33 PM
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HMU 4 The Loud -

My Sutherlands Manual, Edition 4, lists all freewheel bearings as 1/8th inch. It is probable that the Helico freewheel is the same. Disassembly instructions are on the link here: https://www.borgercompagnie.com/heli...technical.html although all it should need is oil dripped through the beck of the freewheel body.
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Old 02-28-20, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HMU 4 The Loud
Take the lockring off, remove the freewheel, inspect the bearings, inspect the cones, lube up everything, put it back together (with the right tools), and it should last you indefinitely. Remember to grease the threads on the freewheel lockring to prevent it from siezing into place. Also, take it to LBS to have them service whatever you can't or don't have time for.
I think that in the ELEVEN YEARS since the OP posted asking how to maintain his hub he's either done it or scrapped that hub - perhaps he's done both.

Good advice for anyone else with one of those Helicomatic hubs though.

Cheers
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Old 09-23-20, 10:14 AM
  #69  
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Yes I know adding to a Zombie thread but its interesting that in a decade of working on Vintage bikes including a fair number of French ones this is the first Heliomatic hub I have encountered. I had this same model, year, color and size of Trek 420 pass through my hands last year but it had a 700c replacement rear wheel, now I know why lol


85 Trek 420

Hub

lock ring needing special tool
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Old 09-23-20, 11:20 AM
  #70  
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The bottle opener / lock ring tool is cool; I picked one up just because I happened to be up at Yellow Jersey a couple years ago. But the lock ring is VERY low torque, less than the lock ring on a Shimano cassette and WAY less than a conventional old-school thread-on freewheel. A channel-lock pliers of sufficient size, with a gentle grip on the lock ring, is all you need.
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