Sd12345

This is somewhat of a follow up to me trying and longer and lower stem.

here are 3 stems: 100mm, 80mm, and 60mm. The bike came with the 80. The current fork is a different one and uncut. Oh, also the reach on my bars is like 100 mm, so I may just get compact bars.

The 60 is what I’ve ridden the last month and can be in the hoods for most of the ride. The 80 I rode for a couple years and while
it is okay, feels a little long. The 100 to me looks the best in terms of my body position but feels too stretched. I’m also really inflexible though.

obviously there are a lot of variables. Just trying to get an idea based on pics. Fork to be cut soon I hope, or is the bike too big?

100

80

60

Iride01 

What feels best to you for the longer times you spend on the trainer? That's the one I'd use. Did you try the shorter stems at lower heights? That may make them feel different too.

You might find that comfort perceptions change when you get out on the road. Regardless, where ever you keep your ride data, make notes about your perceived effort. IE. how well your legs felt. And when you are trying different fits, make notes how you felt with regards to what ever you changed. Then compare that perception to your data and see what your data say about things like speed and time.

It is possible that a ever so slightly less comfortable position might give you better times, power and speed.

tyrion

I'd keep all 3 stems (and a long enough steerer tube) as options for a few months. Get a thousand miles in to figure out what's best for your body.

Photo 2 looks like the best starting point to my eye.

Changing stems is so easy these days - you could change stems in the middle of a ride.

Ferrouscious 

100 at the top of the spacer stack or 80 about mid-stack. try a 90?

Sd12345

I think I may go on a ride tomorrow with the 100 and the 80 and try his suggestion.

Wildwood 

With all the tests you are running - I would first set the handlebar correctly - needs to be rotated a fair amount. Brake levers may need to be adjusted on the bar.

The stem in top pic is the one to use. Can you bend elbows and lower upper body comfortably? Catching all the headwind with your chest is increasing the needed pedal propulsion. A split-rail or cutout saddle allows one to rotate hips to put the upper body lower, in my experience

It just takes practice.

Carbonfiberboy 

Top photo, no question. Bike is correct size. If it were me, I'd take out that last spacer - slam the stem - and cut the steer tube., Actually, I'd have it cut at my bike shop. Rotate the bars until the brake levers are vertical.
https://www.bikeforums.net/19145009-post3.html

And see how curved your back is? You don't want that. Makes your neck hurt on a long day. Rotate your hips clockwise as shown in your photos and flatten your back, especially your upper back. Your back should be more or less straight from your shorts top to your neck. See especially the photo in post #16 in this link:
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...discovery.html
I think if you get into the same position as shown in #16, you'll look about like that.
You'll notice that doing this will change your reach and angles, but that stem should still be fine.

Your top photo is about what it's supposed to look like. See also:
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...l#post12953035

Oh - post a photo with you in that #16 position as a check.

Sd12345

one of the reasons I am going to get different bars is because when they are setup they way they were intended, it hurts my wrists. I hate the downslope on the bar into the hoods.

I have a cutout saddle that I run 1-2 degrees nose up. Will try adjusting.

Wildwood 

You may not need new bars. Take the bar wrap off, rotate the bar so the ends point toward the rear axle (instead of the front brake), reposition the brake/shifters upward - to compensate for the handlebar rotation. The primary reason for my recco = In the current position, it appears the drops are angled in a manner convenient hand position for holding your upper body. This is not the purpose of the drops. Practice a light touch with wrists and hands, practically a non-weight bearing touch = as becomes possible with time & practice. Note in pic above, on a flat straightaway = not even griping the bar.

Sd12345

Update: went for a ride with the 80mm stem. Left 20mm spacers under it just so I didn’t go too extreme. Very interesting findings.

the good news is that the frame fits me. The bad news is that I’m def going to need to work on my core and stretching.

I really focused on keeping a flat back and rotating at the hips. My glutes actually engaged which was surprising as my heart rate stayed lower but I was going faster.

I am going to need to get a 2 bolt seat post as the saddle was either too nose up or too nose down in the 2 positions I tried.

I plan on riding this setup for awhile as my body def needs to get used to this position.

will take a pic next time I’m on the trainer for feedback.

Carbonfiberboy 

Basic stretches, every morning: https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...l#post15372967

Then these McKenzie Method exercises::

Then plank and do some pushups.

Riding will take care of your core strength. Try to lift the weight of your leg on the upstroke or as much of it as feels comfortable.

79pmooney

That was my first thought. Also - something that works for me - I can place my bars anywhere (withing reason) on a sloped line and keep the same arm bend and shoulder location. I ride lower and more stretched than you and my "line" is 2 cm horizontal and 1 cm of spacers up. In other words I could ride an 80 with no spacers or a 100 with a cm spacer. You ride with your shoulders considerably higher than I do, so if I were you, I'd look at the "line" as being 1:1. Now that is assuming horizontal (-17 degree) stems. Your horizontal 100 is around a cm or two lower than your others.

Having your final choice come out with spacers above and below means you have the flexibility to change later. Down as you ride more and get more flexible, up for early spring and after injuries and conditioning setbacks. (I used to raise and lower my quill stem as a racer. Lower as the season went on, slammed down for short criteriums, higher for very long races.)

Edit: In line with Wildwood's post, I recommend going for rides with no handlebar tape, just enough electrical tape to secure the cable housings. Bring the wrenches to move the brake levers and rotate the handlebars. I do this routinely with new setups, then tape with cloth tape from the handlebar ends. That way I can unwrap to the hoods, move them and re-wrap easily as many times as needed. I don't put on nice handlebar tape until the cloth is warn out and I know everything is where I want it.

Ferrouscious 

I would actually recommend a new set of handlebars. Those "ergo" bars that come on modern Motobecanes are truly awful. The drops are funky and the reach is oddly long for a modern bar. Here are two bars I recommend:
Specialized Expert Alloy Shallow Bend 42cm
FSA Omega Compact Bar 42
I would try somewhere between a 40 and a 44cm bar. Something around shoulder width. I personally like 40cm bars but I have narrow shoulders. Why did I choose these bars?
-Compact drop (approx 125mm) which most people like
-affordable price
-neutral reach (not too long or short)
-reasonably flat drop
That last point is key to finding a good handlebar IME. See, I like a traditional bend not just for its aesthetics, but also for the flat drops. Here's my bike as an example:


...And here's a bad bar design:


The blue lines represent what a better bar shape would look like.

Flatter drops (like on my bike) help support more of your hand when you're down low. The angle is also important. @Wildwood offers that you rotate the bars back, which is often touted as the be-all-end-all to comfort. Don't. The problems arise when you want to use the drops or especially when you want to brake from the drops. You crane your wrists up in the most unnatural of ways. Try it for yourself, pitch your wrists up like you're pushing against a wall. Yaw your wrists in the direction of your thumb. Last, pull your digits in like you're using the brake. Great job, you just gave yourself arthritis. Ha, ha. Keep your bars close to level to the ground and don't place your levers too high. Levers are best placed 1-1.5cm above the bottom of the drop or until the top of the hood is level to 1* above the ramps. I can hear you protesting already, so read on!

These images all have something in common:




If you guessed that they are all dropping their wrists, you would be right! Other acceptable answers that they're all droping the hamer, dialing it up to 400 600 watts, slamdancing on the petals, or blocking the sun with their Massive guads. Don't ask if you don't know. You, luckily are doing this to some extent:


Drop your wrist a little more or move your fingers further forward on the levers, like you're braking. This flattens the angle from your wimpy cyclist arms to your grubby, underdeveloped gamer hands. I kid.


One last hand positioning link is DannoXYZ's famous post that this advice is roughly based on. This is all personal advice, so don't get too stressed.

RockiesDad

Hummm... the top pic looks like the stem is mounted in the negative position whereas the bottom two are in the positive position. The lengths do matter but also the orientation of the stem also matters, You can use either +/- 6 deg or whatever your stem is, stem spacers the degree of stem offsets (+/- 6 deg vs +/-17 deg are common) to find your preferred position. Also, your seat for and aft adjustment will also come into play.

Here is what I like to use to compare stems. Start with what you are familiar with and enter the different combination of spacers, stem lengths and stem degrees. It will at least give you an idea which way to go for the direction you think you want.

Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

Lots of trial and error but easy enough to play with. Also it gives you something to think about while you are riding...

Moisture

Personally, you look to be balanced best fore and aft with the 60mm stem.

However, only you can determine this based on how the bike feels for you.

Flatten out your back, try to lean back a little and fling yourself into a turn as hard as you safely can. You should feel like there is an even amount of weight between both axles and that the front tire is not in any way overwhelmed with cornering forces or giving up grip first/early.

Considering this, I think youre best off with 60mm. However, while your frame looks to be a great fit for you, I think your seat is set a bit low for you. Try to raise it so that there is only a small bend in your knee at the 6 o clock crank position. Once you get your seat at the correct height, I think that around 45mm would be the perfect stem length for you.

Also, remember to try and keep your back flat as you ride, some back strengthening workouts would be helpful for this.