lacing pattern for 28 hole rear rim brake wheel
#1
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lacing pattern for 28 hole rear rim brake wheel
Per the title, I have a wheel that I'm rebuilding for a road bicycle. It is used for tarmac only, no gravel and no racing: just riding for enjoyment and exercise. I'm fairly light at 150 lbs and the wheel is 700c
The wheel had a 28 hole 2X pattern. I will reuse the rim as it is in great condition but will replace the hub and spokes (the hub isn't smooth anymore even after an overhaul). From what I've read, 3X is the strongest way to go for the least spoke weight penalty.
I'm thinking of doing either a 3X pattern or a 3X drive side:radial non drive side. What is the benefit to either one?
Would love to hear opinions on this.
Thanks
The wheel had a 28 hole 2X pattern. I will reuse the rim as it is in great condition but will replace the hub and spokes (the hub isn't smooth anymore even after an overhaul). From what I've read, 3X is the strongest way to go for the least spoke weight penalty.
I'm thinking of doing either a 3X pattern or a 3X drive side:radial non drive side. What is the benefit to either one?
Would love to hear opinions on this.
Thanks
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Ah, it is always good to see people tackling spokes
My question is how much of a benefit do you expect to derive from minimising the spoke weight, since you are not intending to race? I only ask because if the wheel has been a success in its current pattern, why not continue with it - or does the front wheel already have a 3x pattern?
My question is how much of a benefit do you expect to derive from minimising the spoke weight, since you are not intending to race? I only ask because if the wheel has been a success in its current pattern, why not continue with it - or does the front wheel already have a 3x pattern?
#3
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Lacing pattern has a minimal effect on the wheel, to be honest. To reduce stresses on the hub flange it's good to get the spokes nearly tangential. 2x is the convention for a 28h rear wheel and there's no real advantage to lacing it 3x. 3x would also be fine, though with some hub geometries you run the risk of having the spokes overlap each other spoke holes which isn't great.
Radial NDS has the pretty slight, relatively theoretical advantage of reducing fatigue on those spokes (which they are more susceptible to being under lower tension) because it effectively keeps any torque from being transferred through those spokes, assuming the hub shell effectively transfers torque. It also means that you can lace all heads in or out. All heads in seems more common, which slightly increases NDS tension at the expense of slightly worse triangulation and lateral stiffness. It definitely looks fancy. For what it's worth my personal, stupid light aluminum road wheels are laced 24h 2x in the front and 28h radial/2x rear, mostly because it was fun to lace and looks cool.
TLDR: You should probably lace 2x. Lace radial NDS if that sounds fun or you think it'd look cool.
Radial NDS has the pretty slight, relatively theoretical advantage of reducing fatigue on those spokes (which they are more susceptible to being under lower tension) because it effectively keeps any torque from being transferred through those spokes, assuming the hub shell effectively transfers torque. It also means that you can lace all heads in or out. All heads in seems more common, which slightly increases NDS tension at the expense of slightly worse triangulation and lateral stiffness. It definitely looks fancy. For what it's worth my personal, stupid light aluminum road wheels are laced 24h 2x in the front and 28h radial/2x rear, mostly because it was fun to lace and looks cool.
TLDR: You should probably lace 2x. Lace radial NDS if that sounds fun or you think it'd look cool.
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Ended up doing 3x both sides. No overlap of spokes on flange.
my first wheel build - pretty fun learning experience!
my first wheel build - pretty fun learning experience!
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Good job! 3X on both flanges is what I was going to suggest. So many people think that spoking does something to with making them faster... Andy
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Ok teaching moment for me, but isn't 28 spokes, 28 spokes from a weight standpoint? Or is there some miniscule spoke length difference here?
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Radial lacing uses slightly shorter and slightly lighter spokes than 2X and 2X uses slightly shorter spokes than 3X. The weight differences are trivial but there are those who agonize over the slightest amount.
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As a rule of the thumb, I figure 3>2 saves the weight of about 1/2 spoke.
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I was taught to get the spokes as close to tangential as possible. In my experience, most 28 spoke road or mountain wheels fall right in between 2X and 3X, so I usually go with 2X because it eliminates the chance of crossing the spokes at the flange and (as Bill mentioned above) is marginally lighter.
As for the OP, it appears your 3X is no weaker than 2X would be, so go enjoy the pride of riding on wheels you built yourself.
As for the OP, it appears your 3X is no weaker than 2X would be, so go enjoy the pride of riding on wheels you built yourself.
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