About center pull straddle cable hangers/yokes
#1
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About center pull straddle cable hangers/yokes
Looking at Google images of a bunch of bikes, it seems like in 99.44% of photos, the brake cable goes behind the metal plate that comprises the yoke/hanger; much cleaner appearance. But that aims the brake cable directly at the U-channel that the straddle cable rides in.I seem to recall from my mechanic days (45 years ago) most brake brands have a notch there in the C-channel for the brake cable to pass straight thru.... but not Mafac. Thus you have to bend the cable "straight back", as compared to the centerline of the bike, or direct it sideways to emerge alongside the straddle cable. I've now seen quite a few photos of each. Well, is there any reason one cannot simply add a notch? This is not the world's thickest aluminum, but I don't have a DIa-Compe one to compare it to. Not an engineer, but closing my eyes and trying to visualize the stress under braking, I really don't see this piece folding in on itself at such a notch.
Photo stolen form BF (sorry) via search, showing the "bend-straight-back" or so it looks in the picture:
Photo stolen form BF (sorry) via search, showing the "bend-straight-back" or so it looks in the picture:
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I've never actively bent the cable. No hangers without a notch, I just fish the able past hanger. It take the bend it needs. I never wanted to add any more. I like to keep the ends as straight as possible. Makes capping and re-running those ends easier. Then again, I've always been function over C & C correct. I was doing this before my bike became C & V. So, my tradition has become, based on the passage of time, vintage. I'm at lest half there.
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And I would say go right ahead and file a notch if you want; you could get a nice finish with a chainsaw-file.
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Have a look at these - all Mafac. The leftmost has no notch; the second has a saw-cut notch, probably post-manufacture; the third and fourth have factory notches, and they are different - note the slightly larger font on the last one, and the V-bottom to its notch compared to the more U-shaped bottom of the third:
And I would say go right ahead and file a notch if you want; you could get a nice finish with a chainsaw-file.
And I would say go right ahead and file a notch if you want; you could get a nice finish with a chainsaw-file.
"Oh, nobody knows the Dremel I've seen..."
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
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Thanks for this thread @tiger1964 and for the excellent reply and samples @oneclick. I was just dealing with this same issue on my recently completed Gitane Gran Tourisme. We were definitely on the same wavelength. After initial set-up, I ended up cutting my cable housing a couple inches shorter and then made some brake adjustments. The slight crimp in the cable combined with that sharp bend behind the u-channel was an annoyance. I may cut/file a channel next time I have it apart.
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I find the toughest part of online inquiries is (a) asking the question(s) intelligently, to get intelligent answers, and (b) composing topic title and content so that future users might find the topic and deem the contents useful.
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Seems like this is a good place to drop this here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ble-yokes.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ble-yokes.html
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#10
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If you want to maintain more of the integrity of the yoke see if you can drill or dremel an aligned hole through instead of a slot. Form and smooth it with a needle file.
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Seems like this is a good place to drop this here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ble-yokes.html
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Most Mafac brakes have a QR built-in; the early Racer style is perhaps the simplest & lightest of any brake made.
Last edited by oneclick; 03-02-21 at 04:18 AM.
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If I am reading that correctly -- has any brake ever been designed that way?
I presume you mean unhooking the straddle cable from the brake arm. Noted.
This particular set is the "Dural Forge" type, don't even say Racer on them, I have two sets. Same set-up, however.
This particular set is the "Dural Forge" type, don't even say Racer on them, I have two sets. Same set-up, however.
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I have a couple of these with notches which I will happily trade for the older style without the notches.
Brent
Brent
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Have a look at these - all Mafac. The leftmost has no notch; the second has a saw-cut notch, probably post-manufacture; the third and fourth have factory notches, and they are different - note the slightly larger font on the last one, and the V-bottom to its notch compared to the more U-shaped bottom of the third: And I would say go right ahead and file a notch if you want; you could get a nice finish with a chainsaw-file.
Oops! A couple of minutes too late. I just finished cutting notches with a fine cutoff wheel on a Dremel, which worked well but I might fine tune with a jeweler's file. Sorry!
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