SkipII

I got my Poseidon X today and, while most everything about it is great (value, build quality), the one thing I was worried about is evidence now: it has a VERY aggressive geometry. I have the seat properly positioned for leg extension and power stroke, but the reach to the handlebars is tough, and the "crush" of the front of the seat against the family jewels is intolerable.

So...I have some work to do.

I understand I can shift a seat forward on the horizontal, but is there a seat made that can be tilted forward a bit to help that "pressure?" As well, I'll be shopping for a snorter stem or one with a bigger angle -- or both -- to see if I can get a bit of a more upright position. There was a thread earlier that offerd some options.

tyrion

I'd get the handlebars up to the preferred position first (which will change the angle of your pelvis), then work on the saddle.

SkipII

Thanks but already did that. Also moved the seat forward on its rails. I think the next step is focus on the stem. I was warned about the higbh-reach geometry of the bike but the company assured me it would be fine. It is not.

Iride01 

So are you not wanting any drop from the saddle to the handlebars? If so, you bought the wrong bike. But I'd hardly call that bike an aggressive fit. Relative to what you might desire, sure it more aggressive that what you want.

If you don't have any steerer tube above the stem then your are quickly going to get into the dorky looking stems and stuff that put your bars higher. If you only need a few more millimeters, then you might look into swapping the bars for some that have rise to them.

These claim to give you 30 mm of rise

https://www.jensonusa.com/Surly-Truc...xoCDIYQAvD_BwE

Not so much a recommendation for these specific bars, but just so you can see what I'm talking about. Notice the top of the bars are higher than the stem. But the drops on these might be too low to the bar height.

Can you return this one and look for something more in the geometry you really want?

icemilkcoffee 

3 answers:
1. Get a high rise stem


2. From the seats I have tried, my wife's Selle SMP Avant seems to have the most generous center relief channel. The Avant is technically a 'women's' model. They make similar seats for men.

3. Everyone says 'ride with a flat back'. But in realiity you cannot ride with your hip rotated too far forward- it will crush your junk. You need to ride with a flat upper back, but hunched lower back. Do this- get on the bike, arch your back slightly. Now suck in your stomach hard. So now your upper back is flat, but your lower back is hunched. This is the correct riding posture.

79pmooney

To the thread topic - I don't think the moderators have that ability. They can alter thread titles and delete posts, but altering physical bicycle frame geometry? You'd have to give them your address, and then, do you trust them with cutting tools and a torch or glue?

Seriously - my take - good position should rule on a bike. Seat where you are at your best. Handlebars ("cockpit") located to facilitate that seat position and your overall comfort and efficiency. I am completely comfortable with going to unusual seatposts and stems to put seat and cockpit in my "right place". (I have several big setback seatposts and some very long stems. My issue is that I have long legs and arms that go forever and also need a low, aero position if I ever want or need to go upwind and get anywhere.)

My challenge over the years has been how ot make standard issue early '80s Japanese and the like frames fit me well. (Those were the choice frames of the heyday of production steel for city/rain/winter fix gears with fenders.) Now, those bikes, with standard seat tube angles, work with regular seatposts and the seats near slammed back. But they are always way too short up front for me. 175 mm stems work far better but cannot be found on a bikeshop shelf. I just accept that my stems cost more than the frames I put them on. Have them built good and solid so they will outlast the frames and go to the next.

But those production frames all have handling issues for me. My weight is too far forward on the tires; not enough weight in back. I am unwilling to sacrifice fit so I live with it. Now, on my customs.I have the seat tube angle increased and the chainstays shortened so the rear wheel is further forward relative to the bottom bracket and my weight. Longer top tube also. Now, the seat wants to be further back on a standard seatpost than slammed. Both my customs have custom big seatack posts.

Yes, I have spent real money on these rather odd parts. I've been riding a long time, have owned "dream rides" and feel I am worth having bikes that fit me that well. I have also chosen over the years to spend my money on bikes and relatively little on cars. More than half of my work life's commuting has been by bike.

So, this is a balancing act. How much do you want to spend? How much are you invested in this frame? How important is your physical comfort and fun on the bike? How important is it to you to look "conventional"? All questions we cannot answer for anyone but ourselves. (Well we can, but they become opinions.)

Carbonfiberboy 

Almost anyone can get comfortable with an ordinary road fit - but the bike has to be the right size or at least close. Saddle to bar drop should not be an issue unless one is really, really stiff, like can't reach their knees. Here's my DIY bike fit primer:
https://www.bikeforums.net/21296948-post3.html

If after trying several things, moving things, trying different stem lengths, you still can't get the weight off your hands or get that 90° angle between upper arms and torso, the bike isn't the right size. Geometry doesn't particularly matter - size does, particularly effective top tube length.

Your jewels are having an issue probably because of the shorts, or the saddle, or you need the nose of the saddle tilted down a few degrees. You might try a different pair of bike shorts. Put a level on the saddle, make sure it's level or tilted down maybe 2-3° in front.

Cyclist0100

It sounds like your setup is "long and low", and you may be on a frame that's too big. Trying to feel your way through the fitting process without proper fitting knowledge and experience, and with a frame that's (possibly) the wrong size, seems like a bad idea to me. The risk of "unintended consequences" is high. Your body is already under additional stress because of the setup / frame size. Adding to your setup issues is also the likely fact that your body is making compensatory adjustments (that you are unaware of) to deal with that discomfort, which only adds to your risk of injury.

I'd strongly advise seeking out a competent bike fitter to assess the situation. I understand that $100-$200 for a good bike fit is an unwanted expense if funds are tight, but in my experience it's money well spent.

crn3371

Something the OP said doesn’t make sense, or I’ve missed something. You asked if there’s a seat (correct term is saddle) that can be tilted forward. Saddle tilt is done via adjustment on the seatpost.

marty.rheaume

It must be because I have stumpy little legs. I'm 5' 7" with a 30 inch inseam but the geometry on my size Small doesn't feel aggressive at all. I haven't been able to put any miles on it yet because January in Michigan so I'm sure I'll have to make a few changes but I was kind of scared it would be too aggressive for me.

Senior Vagabond

I just modified my new Roubaix for more comfort by adding a shorter 90mm 17 degree Easton stem and Selle SMP TRK Medium saddle. This helped quite a bit.