I'm back from 2003, need advice adjusting my new road bike...
#1
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I'm back from 2003, need advice adjusting my new road bike...
Hey folks,
I'm just your regular old nearly 50 casual cyclist that has loved cycling since he was 5 years old. My serious road cycling days were late 80's into the late 90's. In 2001 I purchased a 58cm Ciocc at a LBS in Gainesville, FL because it was just sweet, Campy Victory, Columbus Steel, pure exotica, albeit it was a little on the small side for me (I'm 6'3"). Then around 2003 my life had all new focus with family so I sold the Ciocc. Now for the past solid year I cycle with a buddy several times a week on an average 12 mile loop. I started doing this with a 60cm Raleigh hybrid, then a 1997 XL Specialized Rockhopper Comp FS (Riding 1/2 road and 1/2 walking trail/paths). Well, I've been getting the itch to get another road bike, to start doing some longer hauls on the roads. I really didn't have much of any budget but I figure if something astonishing showed up (which here in Austin, TX isn't that uncommon), then I'd bite. Well, after really wanting a 58m 1973 Italvega Superlite with Campy NR Drillium groupo (the 58cm and $600 price tag were the two things telling me to keep looking) I found this 64cm 2004 Fuji Bordeaux with all stock stuff (I think the cables were even original/stock) w/o a single scratch anywhere on it, like it really was never ridden. The guy wanted $400 and I eventually got it from him for $280.
Now, I did a test ride after lowering the seat 1 foot...LOL. And I knew it had potential to fit if I further adjusted the saddle fore/aft/height and replaced the stem (current stock is 117mm 17 degree rise). So I took the chance and bought it. I figure it was a no brainer and that if it doesn't work I should certainly be able to get my money back, esp. for its condition.
Now all this being said, I've dialed it into a working setup for me. I got a new Ritchey 70mm 30 degree rise stem (yeah, looks geometrically a little old for such a large frame, but hey, now my reach isn't too far) and seems just right. Seat is dialed in too.
Now, I'm into the feedback area of this post, my bars angle and the shift/brake levers. What are these generically called anyway? Bifters...LOL? They really put me into just only one functional position which is the following:
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/wp-cont...hoods-grab.jpg
Any use of the drop-bar area, even to tuck etc. just feels odd. And before you ask, it's not because I'm not about to bend into that position or uncomfortable in my back/neck, it's really all about the ergonomics in my hands in this position, it's absolutely rubbish. Now to be fair, again at almost 50, I prefer a little more upright than what I did 20-30 years ago.
So, help me out here, do I do some further adjustments? Do I maybe just leave it and use the top of the brake/shifter grip area for 90% of the ride and every so often use the upper horizontals? Or, do I explore other bar options, like maybe bull-horns etc.? Am I using these particular Ritchey Comp drop-bars correctly?
Here's this super nice condition 64cm 2004 Fuji Bordeaux:
I'm just your regular old nearly 50 casual cyclist that has loved cycling since he was 5 years old. My serious road cycling days were late 80's into the late 90's. In 2001 I purchased a 58cm Ciocc at a LBS in Gainesville, FL because it was just sweet, Campy Victory, Columbus Steel, pure exotica, albeit it was a little on the small side for me (I'm 6'3"). Then around 2003 my life had all new focus with family so I sold the Ciocc. Now for the past solid year I cycle with a buddy several times a week on an average 12 mile loop. I started doing this with a 60cm Raleigh hybrid, then a 1997 XL Specialized Rockhopper Comp FS (Riding 1/2 road and 1/2 walking trail/paths). Well, I've been getting the itch to get another road bike, to start doing some longer hauls on the roads. I really didn't have much of any budget but I figure if something astonishing showed up (which here in Austin, TX isn't that uncommon), then I'd bite. Well, after really wanting a 58m 1973 Italvega Superlite with Campy NR Drillium groupo (the 58cm and $600 price tag were the two things telling me to keep looking) I found this 64cm 2004 Fuji Bordeaux with all stock stuff (I think the cables were even original/stock) w/o a single scratch anywhere on it, like it really was never ridden. The guy wanted $400 and I eventually got it from him for $280.
Now, I did a test ride after lowering the seat 1 foot...LOL. And I knew it had potential to fit if I further adjusted the saddle fore/aft/height and replaced the stem (current stock is 117mm 17 degree rise). So I took the chance and bought it. I figure it was a no brainer and that if it doesn't work I should certainly be able to get my money back, esp. for its condition.
Now all this being said, I've dialed it into a working setup for me. I got a new Ritchey 70mm 30 degree rise stem (yeah, looks geometrically a little old for such a large frame, but hey, now my reach isn't too far) and seems just right. Seat is dialed in too.
Now, I'm into the feedback area of this post, my bars angle and the shift/brake levers. What are these generically called anyway? Bifters...LOL? They really put me into just only one functional position which is the following:
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/wp-cont...hoods-grab.jpg
Any use of the drop-bar area, even to tuck etc. just feels odd. And before you ask, it's not because I'm not about to bend into that position or uncomfortable in my back/neck, it's really all about the ergonomics in my hands in this position, it's absolutely rubbish. Now to be fair, again at almost 50, I prefer a little more upright than what I did 20-30 years ago.
So, help me out here, do I do some further adjustments? Do I maybe just leave it and use the top of the brake/shifter grip area for 90% of the ride and every so often use the upper horizontals? Or, do I explore other bar options, like maybe bull-horns etc.? Am I using these particular Ritchey Comp drop-bars correctly?
Here's this super nice condition 64cm 2004 Fuji Bordeaux:
#3
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I think typically the top/hoods of the bar is set parallel to the ground. Yours look to be slightly pointing up(?). In the modern context the drops are not used as much:
https://road.cc/content/news/133598-...ker-down-hoods
https://road.cc/content/news/133598-...ker-down-hoods
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#4
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I like this idea a lot. I spend $34 on the new stem and $11 on 26mm to 31.8mm shims....hummm...I'm going to need to re-do the wrap/tape and replace housings/cables anyway too. These look to have little indents to aid in cable housing routing too?
#5
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Thread Starter
I think typically the top/hoods of the bar is set parallel to the ground. Yours look to be slightly pointing up(?). In the modern context the drops are not used as much:
https://road.cc/content/news/133598-...ker-down-hoods
https://road.cc/content/news/133598-...ker-down-hoods
#6
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#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
My thinks the best looking setup that actually would work for me is now the following: 460mm wide drop bars with a 70-75mm reach, care less about the drop distance, 80mm stem at 20 degree angle...this would give me close to the same effective rise and the same reach I'm at now with this 70mm 30 degree rise stem and 460mm wide 90mm reach drop bars...hummm...the cycle of tweaking continues.
#8
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Thread Starter
Doing more digging and after measuring my shoulder width at 43cm I think 46cm is probably the max width I'd go and 44cm would be the smallest width I'd go, and after some more thought, using a Bontrager 100mm 10 degree stem that actually allows for one more small steerer tube spacer, returning my $38 Ritchey 70mm 30 degree rise stem and $12 26mm to 31.8mm spacer I will try these bars out Surly Truck Stop Drop Bar. They don't have an extreme flare which is nice, 78mm reach, 45cm width, but a cool 30mm rise. I'm more into comfort than looks. https://www.jensonusa.com/Surly-Truc...Drop-Handlebar
#9
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Just some thought to consider about going wider with your handlebars.
I find it makes me too rigid and all the sideways forces I encounter hitting bumps and stuff are stopped by the arms and shoulders. This makes my arms and shoulders a little sore. Instead I'd rather some of that force be shared by other parts of my torso.
Also the wider bars cause my wrist to start bending inward after long rides which can make for numb hands and wrist if you don't pay attention and swap up hand positions often.
I much prefer the 38 cm wide bars on my Raleigh than the 42 cm bars on my Tarmac and Paramount.
However, everyone is different. So what ever works for you is good enough for me.
I find it makes me too rigid and all the sideways forces I encounter hitting bumps and stuff are stopped by the arms and shoulders. This makes my arms and shoulders a little sore. Instead I'd rather some of that force be shared by other parts of my torso.
Also the wider bars cause my wrist to start bending inward after long rides which can make for numb hands and wrist if you don't pay attention and swap up hand positions often.
I much prefer the 38 cm wide bars on my Raleigh than the 42 cm bars on my Tarmac and Paramount.
However, everyone is different. So what ever works for you is good enough for me.
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