Schwinn Suburban 1972
02-02-21, 12:31 AM
#1
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Schwinn Suburban 1972
hello this is my first post in this group I hope I'm doing it right. I was wondering if anybody could steer me in the right direction for a chain that will work with my 1972 10-speed Suburban. Thank you, Storm
02-02-21, 12:42 AM
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Yes, welcome, and you are doing it right.
I have basically the same question for my 1970s designed bikes - what to choose for 3-speed and 5-speed freehub derailleurs?
I have basically the same question for my 1970s designed bikes - what to choose for 3-speed and 5-speed freehub derailleurs?
02-02-21, 12:46 AM
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Any ol" 3/32 multispeed chain ought to do the trick.
5 & 6 speed chains would be OEM, 7/8 speed would be easy enough to substitute. You'd probably want to avoid 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 (!) speed chains. IME the thin sideplates & shaved down rivets would make the chain too skinny & it could skate/jam between the cogs &/or chainwheel.
I think a KMC Z33 used to be the go to, at around (or under) $10, but I'm not sure if it's still made or not.
Your bike is a 2 by 5 drivetrain. So for the most part it's the "5" in the back that is determining chain width that is appropriate.
Edit: Check PorkChop BMX
Or the Z33 replacement on Amazon
5 & 6 speed chains would be OEM, 7/8 speed would be easy enough to substitute. You'd probably want to avoid 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 (!) speed chains. IME the thin sideplates & shaved down rivets would make the chain too skinny & it could skate/jam between the cogs &/or chainwheel.
I think a KMC Z33 used to be the go to, at around (or under) $10, but I'm not sure if it's still made or not.
Your bike is a 2 by 5 drivetrain. So for the most part it's the "5" in the back that is determining chain width that is appropriate.
Edit: Check PorkChop BMX
Or the Z33 replacement on Amazon
Last edited by base2; 02-02-21 at 01:09 AM.
02-02-21, 03:53 AM
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Any ol" 3/32 multispeed chain ought to do the trick.
5 & 6 speed chains would be OEM, 7/8 speed would be easy enough to substitute. You'd probably want to avoid 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 (!) speed chains. IME the thin sideplates & shaved down rivets would make the chain too skinny & it could skate/jam between the cogs &/or chainwheel.
I think a KMC Z33 used to be the go to, at around (or under) $10, but I'm not sure if it's still made or not.
Your bike is a 2 by 5 drivetrain. So for the most part it's the "5" in the back that is determining chain width that is appropriate.
Edit: Check PorkChop BMX
Or the Z33 replacement on Amazon
5 & 6 speed chains would be OEM, 7/8 speed would be easy enough to substitute. You'd probably want to avoid 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 (!) speed chains. IME the thin sideplates & shaved down rivets would make the chain too skinny & it could skate/jam between the cogs &/or chainwheel.
I think a KMC Z33 used to be the go to, at around (or under) $10, but I'm not sure if it's still made or not.
Your bike is a 2 by 5 drivetrain. So for the most part it's the "5" in the back that is determining chain width that is appropriate.
Edit: Check PorkChop BMX
Or the Z33 replacement on Amazon
Now I just need to choose something for my single speed coaster brakes.
02-02-21, 09:01 AM
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Most older 3 spd freewheels would want a 1/8"x1/2" chain, generally considered a 1 spd or 3 spd IGH width these days. The move to the narrower 3/32" chains really became common when freewheels grew to 4 or 5 cogs. BTW this chain use wouldn't have had a master link but would have spliced the two ends of the chain together with the chain's own pin.That's early to mid 1960s aprox.
But I question if the OP is talking about a 3 spd der/freewheel gear system and instead a 3 spd IGH (like a Sturmey Archer AW). That type of hub/cog typically can't have a 3/32" wide chain fit onto the 1/8" wide cog teeth. If this is the case then that 1/8" chain could use the often supplied master link as there's no der cage that the chain has to pass through and not get hung up on.
Otherwise the other's advice is solid. Andy
But I question if the OP is talking about a 3 spd der/freewheel gear system and instead a 3 spd IGH (like a Sturmey Archer AW). That type of hub/cog typically can't have a 3/32" wide chain fit onto the 1/8" wide cog teeth. If this is the case then that 1/8" chain could use the often supplied master link as there's no der cage that the chain has to pass through and not get hung up on.
Otherwise the other's advice is solid. Andy
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02-02-21, 11:11 PM
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You may notice that the chain skips on the smallest sprocket of the rear freewheel after replacement. This is because the old sprocket is worn and the new chain is not. You'll have little choice but to replace the freewheel, which can be problematic on an old Schwinn. Seek out a bike co-op or well established bike shop that knows their way around bikes this old. (I learned the trade in a Schwinn shop in the '80's. I could do this repair in my sleep.)
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02-03-21, 01:22 AM
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Most older 3 spd freewheels would want a 1/8"x1/2" chain, generally considered a 1 spd or 3 spd IGH width these days. The move to the narrower 3/32" chains really became common when freewheels grew to 4 or 5 cogs. BTW this chain use wouldn't have had a master link but would have spliced the two ends of the chain together with the chain's own pin.That's early to mid 1960s aprox.
But I question if the OP is talking about a 3 spd der/freewheel gear system and instead a 3 spd IGH (like a Sturmey Archer AW). That type of hub/cog typically can't have a 3/32" wide chain fit onto the 1/8" wide cog teeth. If this is the case then that 1/8" chain could use the often supplied master link as there's no der cage that the chain has to pass through and not get hung up on.
Otherwise the other's advice is solid. Andy
But I question if the OP is talking about a 3 spd der/freewheel gear system and instead a 3 spd IGH (like a Sturmey Archer AW). That type of hub/cog typically can't have a 3/32" wide chain fit onto the 1/8" wide cog teeth. If this is the case then that 1/8" chain could use the often supplied master link as there's no der cage that the chain has to pass through and not get hung up on.
Otherwise the other's advice is solid. Andy
I lack any digital callipers to measure the chain or the gear spacing, but I spun on my 5-speed freewheel onto the wheel, adjusted the stops and then with the friction lever I was able to get all gears cleanly, even with the ancient chain it came with. The chain on the bike the 5-speed came on looks narrower. I will see if I can find a way of measuring everything.
3-speed
02-12-21, 04:32 PM
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Thank you for your response. I'm trying to figure out the chain size and at the same time how to navigate this forum on a cell phone. Does anyone anyone have pictures of the rear derailleur. there's a spring that looks like it snaps into two clips. I'm not sure the exact position that it should be in, and I can't post a picture because I don't have 10 postings yet. it looks like the spring hooks onto something or fits between two the 2 clips. Actually just a picture of the rear derailleur on a vintage Schwinn would help thanks
Last edited by stormfishing; 02-12-21 at 06:32 PM. Reason: I use four grammar and punctuation and upset a senior member
02-12-21, 04:46 PM
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Thank you I'm trying to figure out the chain and had to be in a forum I don't even know if you're going to get this message do you have any pictures of the rear derailleur there's a spring and I'm not sure the exact position that it should be in and I can't post a picture because I don't have 10 postings it looks like the spring hooks onto something or fits between two clips thanks in advance if you even get this
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02-12-21, 11:13 PM
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Thank you for your response. I'm trying to figure out the chain size and at the same time how to navigate this forum on a cell phone. Does anyone anyone have pictures of the rear derailleur. there's a spring that looks like it snaps into two clips. I'm not sure the exact position that it should be in, and I can't post a picture because I don't have 10 postings yet. it looks like the spring hooks onto something or fits between two the 2 clips. Actually just a picture of the rear derailleur on a vintage Schwinn would help thanks
Is your derailleur a GT200:
Schwinn GT200 derailleur (disraeligears.co.uk)
or a GT100:
Schwinn GT100 derailleur (disraeligears.co.uk)
If it's the Huret-based GT200, I think there are two separate spring hooks for the tension spring. It was made that way so you can adjust the tension on the chain. Hook the spring to either one- it's your choice.
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02-14-21, 07:37 AM
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https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...er-frames.html
02-14-21, 09:42 AM
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I'm new to this forum and used poor punctuation in this post, but the guy that posted #15 in your link used one run on sentence for hours, maybe days. Wow thanks for sharing.
02-14-21, 08:09 PM
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With mechanical things as well as people there must be room for things to move. For mechanical things as well as people this goes by the same name: tolerance.
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