Linear Pull Brake Levers for Standard Pull Brakes?
03-28-19, 07:55 AM
#1
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Linear Pull Brake Levers for Standard Pull Brakes?
I have some Cane Creek V levers and noticed they're for linear pull brakes (none of my bikes use these) ...
I was reading this Brake levers buying guide - Chain Reaction Cycles
It’s important to match the correct type of brake lever to the corresponding brake type, as the lever must have enough leverage and travel to properly actuate the brake (a term referred to as ‘mechanical advantage’. Long pull levers, for example, have twice as much mechanical advantage as standard pull, meaning they pull the cable twice as far but only half as hard). Mismatched brakes and levers will have too little or too much mechanical advantage, meaning brake action will be too ‘soft’ or too sharp.
and wondered what type of mechanical advantage mismatch there would be, using linear pull levers on standard pull brakes? I thought maybe I could deal with brake action that was "too sharp," since I like brakes adjusted close and quick.
I was reading this Brake levers buying guide - Chain Reaction Cycles
It’s important to match the correct type of brake lever to the corresponding brake type, as the lever must have enough leverage and travel to properly actuate the brake (a term referred to as ‘mechanical advantage’. Long pull levers, for example, have twice as much mechanical advantage as standard pull, meaning they pull the cable twice as far but only half as hard). Mismatched brakes and levers will have too little or too much mechanical advantage, meaning brake action will be too ‘soft’ or too sharp.
and wondered what type of mechanical advantage mismatch there would be, using linear pull levers on standard pull brakes? I thought maybe I could deal with brake action that was "too sharp," since I like brakes adjusted close and quick.
03-28-19, 09:04 AM
#2
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The feel at the levers will be a firm contact, pads against the rims, and pad/rim contact will happen sooner (for the same pad/rim clearance). But the rate of slowing down will be slower for the same hand pressure/lever pull strength. The brakes will feel firm with less flex but weak and require more hand strength to stop quickly. Andy.
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AndrewRStewart
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03-28-19, 10:08 AM
#3
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Math , Again?
If you leave a lot of slack in the cable the braking will come on in the middle of the lever swing.
Where your grip is more comfortable , rather than at your very fingertips..
FWIW,
I'm using the adjustable pull Avid Speed Dial MTB Levers .. and TRP Hy Rd disc calipers.. successfully ..
Mechanical Advantage ... shortest pull high MA (like a Prybar)
Longer cable pull is a lower MA... because the V brake is Higher MA and so demands more cable pull
It's a ratio of distances : work - fulcrum/pivot - Applied Effort ..
....
Where your grip is more comfortable , rather than at your very fingertips..
FWIW,
I'm using the adjustable pull Avid Speed Dial MTB Levers .. and TRP Hy Rd disc calipers.. successfully ..
Mechanical Advantage ... shortest pull high MA (like a Prybar)
Longer cable pull is a lower MA... because the V brake is Higher MA and so demands more cable pull
It's a ratio of distances : work - fulcrum/pivot - Applied Effort ..
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-28-19 at 10:23 AM.
03-28-19, 11:37 AM
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That's one of those things that I wouldn't do on a customer bike but I might do on a personal bike. I don't think that I have ab one average hand strength, but I've ridden a bike that was equipped with similar components and didn't think it unmanageable.
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03-28-19, 03:25 PM
#5
Senior Member
Low mechanical advantage. You can set the pads very far from the rims and still get crisp engagement, but you'll need to squeeze the levers harder to produce a given amount of braking force.
03-28-19, 03:27 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Ugh .. math. Thanks all for the explanations. I couldn't resist these lizards:
I wish Cane Creek still made the SCR-5s like this. I'm not sure I'm OK with trying to get these working, may save for when I have the appropriate brakes.
I wish Cane Creek still made the SCR-5s like this. I'm not sure I'm OK with trying to get these working, may save for when I have the appropriate brakes.
03-28-19, 06:54 PM
#7
Fresh Garbage
I bought these Origin8 levers to replace a couple beat up Cane Creeks I had on my bike. I like them so far and I've tried all the available options besides the SRAM S500 levers. The Tektro RL340 is a good alternative but they're kinda ugly.
Last edited by hairnet; 03-28-19 at 06:57 PM.
03-29-19, 08:13 PM
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I have STI shifters and (theoretically incompatible) V-brakes on my road bike. The mis-match in cable pull is corrected by the use of "Travel Agents".
Travel Agent Installation
Travel Agent Installation
03-29-19, 08:41 PM
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How strong are your hands/grip?
I put some Origin8 Classique levers on my old Colnago, mated to Universal calipers. Whew, lots of cable pull, but with having lost my cable adjusters, it is nice to have a bit of extra pull.
Anyway, you might try the levers out and see if you like them.
Otherwise, wait until you have a project to add drop bars to an older Hybrid as a gravel/utility bike.
Tektro RL520 levers.
There are some days when water dogs would be fitting on the brake hoods.
I put some Origin8 Classique levers on my old Colnago, mated to Universal calipers. Whew, lots of cable pull, but with having lost my cable adjusters, it is nice to have a bit of extra pull.
Anyway, you might try the levers out and see if you like them.
Otherwise, wait until you have a project to add drop bars to an older Hybrid as a gravel/utility bike.
Tektro RL520 levers.
There are some days when water dogs would be fitting on the brake hoods.
