LBCwanabe 

I picked up an older Peugeot and am having trouble identifying it. Here is a pic of the serial number. Can anyone help? Thanks

Phil_gretz

...why not show photos of the actual bike. Show the lug details, bottom bracket shell, any original components, any decals, headset. That way, one of the French experts can tell you.

Serial Number isn't the best method for anything French that I'm aware of...

T-Mar

The stamped dropout indicates an entry level model. Based on the dropout style, in conjunction with the serial number it's French manufacture from May 1978. Unfortunately, the S/N does not include coding for the model.

LBCwanabe 

Here is a picture of it from the original listing. I had to p/u before work and haven’t really had time with it.

bikemig 

The looks like a UO 9. They came with stem mounted shifters and a cotterless crank. They also had better derailleurs than the UO 8s. It might even be a UO 10; the main difference is that it had alloy wheels, the UO 9 had steel. Of course parts can be changed.

Good bike in any case. It has a decent crank and non-plastic derailleurs.

Here's a link to the '78 catalog for the UO 9

https://www.bikeboompeugeot.com/Broc...hure%20UO9.jpg

LBCwanabe 

Thank you! Here are some pics of the tear down. I’m super happy that nothing was seized 👍

T-Mar

The subject bicycle is not a UO variant. The presence of a brazed-on mount for the lighting generator and brazed-on tabs for the lighting harness is consistent with a UE variant and indicates that the fenders, lighting system and rear rack are factory installed items. While there were no UE models catalogued in the USA for 1978, there were equivalent models offered in foreign countries. While foreign market models are often more difficult to identify, as most forum members are USA based, one of my leading candidates would be a Canadian market UE9,

LBCwanabe 

Thanks for the info. After a little more cleaning I know that it has an English threaded BB, but the threads aren’t long enough to accommodate a Mid 90’s deore cup. The rear dropout is 120mm. It had a maillard q/r on the front but it has seen better days. The rims are steel rigida cromolux 27”. It has Shimano f/d and freewheel. Simplex r/d and shifters.

the top of the tubes show some sun fade and rust. At this point I’ll call it patina

LBCwanabe 

90% done with the restoration

John E

Looking good. These frames also ride and handle better than almost anything else in their price class.

If it were mine, I would replace the stem shift with barcons and ditch the brake extension levers, but that's just my preference, and what I did with my UO-8.

miamijim

Swiss

LBCwanabe 

yeah?

LBCwanabe 

miamijim

I zoomed in on the BB and it has the tell-tale 'ring' on the fixed cup so 'British'. '78 is very early for British so as 'Tmar' suggested probably Canadian made.

verktyg 

About 1977-78 we started seeing UO-8s coming in to our shop for service. We weren't a Peugeot dealer but the one a few blocks away was slowly spiraling downward so we got their overflow service business.

Many of the newer UO-8s had British thread pedals, FWs and BBs. We kind of figured that they were being made in Canada but there was no way of knowing back then.

A few of those bikes had even had Swiss metric BBs.

When I was upgrading my 1983 Peugeot PSV-10 I was surprised to find it had a Swiss thread BB with a LH thread fixed cup. It came with Stronglight 104 cranks and I was expecting a cheap Stronglight BB like the ones used on the earlier cast TS cranks.

Instead it had a cheap Peugeot badged BB with a ring around the fixed cup that I assume indicates LH threads.

I hadn't seen that much wear on a BB spindle since the days of working on cottered cranks. The case hardened cups were equally worn.



The standard Stronglight BB spindles were 118mm wide but the ones for use with 126mm wide 6 speed bikes were 120mm. Fortunately I had a couple of mismarked NOS Stronglight fixed cups with LH Swiss thread and an NOS 120mm spindle.


I got the bike with just the cranks, B10 headset, brakes and FD. I changed the headset to a Stronglight A9, and fitted Simplex Retrofriction levers to the cheap Simplex braze on bosses that were threaded bâtard 5mm x 1mm instead of the standard 5mm x .8mm.

I used US 10-24 button head cap screws that are slightly smaller diameter but some blue Loctite insures that they wont loosen in use.





LBCwanabe You did a great job of cleaning up the bike.

verktyg