Peugeot PX10
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Peugeot PX10
Hey all,
I'm looking at purchasing a Peugeot PX-10. Seller is asking $100 which seems fine to me assuming all is well with the bike, he says it's a 1970 PX-10E. Any concerns from what y'all see in the pics? Also - what's the difference between a PX-10 and a PX-10E? Thanks for the help!
I'm looking at purchasing a Peugeot PX-10. Seller is asking $100 which seems fine to me assuming all is well with the bike, he says it's a 1970 PX-10E. Any concerns from what y'all see in the pics? Also - what's the difference between a PX-10 and a PX-10E? Thanks for the help!
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Not a PX 10 and maybe it's worth $100. I really like Peugeots. This is a U08 which is a fine bike but it does have a steel cottered crank, the front deraileur is likely toast, and the original rims on this bike are steel. All that said, this bike has lots of clearance for tires and fenders and it is a fine machine if you are willing to work on it.
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not a model U08
appears closer to a PA-10
which is above a U08 and two models down from a PX-10E
$100 is a good value, just not a PX, if that is what you are seeking
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not a model U08
appears closer to a PA-10
which is above a U08 and two models down from a PX-10E
$100 is a good value, just not a PX, if that is what you are seeking
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To me, the bike looks to be a cut above the model UO8 and not a PX10. Any PX10 to come my way has sported chrome fork socks and stays...
Though my old eyes are poor, the bike appears to have an integral rear derailleur hanger and Simplex crank spider. Neither would be indicative of a UO8. Also, the UO8 bikes, that have come my way, sported steel rims, not alloy. Again, my old eyes might be fooling me, but the OP's rims appear to be alloy.
Anyway, I think that the bike is worth a hundred dollars. I would not hesitate to refurbish the bike to ensure that it is road worth and safe to ride. My guess is that the Peugeot will offer very nice ride quality (and look kinda cool at the same time).
Though my old eyes are poor, the bike appears to have an integral rear derailleur hanger and Simplex crank spider. Neither would be indicative of a UO8. Also, the UO8 bikes, that have come my way, sported steel rims, not alloy. Again, my old eyes might be fooling me, but the OP's rims appear to be alloy.
Anyway, I think that the bike is worth a hundred dollars. I would not hesitate to refurbish the bike to ensure that it is road worth and safe to ride. My guess is that the Peugeot will offer very nice ride quality (and look kinda cool at the same time).
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Yeah, not a PX-10 by any stretch. I recommend the OP search the net for old Peugeot catalogs. They are interesting and sometimes frustrating. Not always easy to nail down a model or a year, at least for me. The experts help when I throw up my hands.
It is attractive and probably worth the asking price. But how much cheaper would they sell it for when they learn it isn't a high end model? $50 to $75? If not, why not? It isn't a PX-10, right?
It is attractive and probably worth the asking price. But how much cheaper would they sell it for when they learn it isn't a high end model? $50 to $75? If not, why not? It isn't a PX-10, right?
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I'm with @juvela, this is a PA-10 - biggest telltale sign is the use of Bocama Model 14 type II lugs, which to my knowledge Peugeot ONLY used on this model. It's the same tubing as a U-08/A-08, same crown as used on a PR-10, but there are no braze-ons for the rear brake cable, steel cottered crank instead of the Stronglight 49 of the PR or Stronglight 93 of the PX. You did get the nice Simplex ends and dropouts, but it's built with the cadre allege stuff, not even plain gauge 531.
$100 is not out of line, but it is a very different beast from a PX-10, and pounds heavier. It's the equivalent of the Gitane Interclub during the Mel Pinto years, nameless tubing "demi-course" for the junior racer on a tight budget.
$100 is not out of line, but it is a very different beast from a PX-10, and pounds heavier. It's the equivalent of the Gitane Interclub during the Mel Pinto years, nameless tubing "demi-course" for the junior racer on a tight budget.
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Here is what T-Mar had to say back in 2005.
The PA10 and PX10 used the same basic geometry, but used different materials and finish. The PA10 used the standard Peugeot, hi-tensile steel tubing while the PX10 used top grade Reynolds 531 butted tubing. The PX10 will have chrome rear stays, while a PA10 will not. A PA10 will build up into about a 25 lb bicycle with correct, period components, while a PX10 will weigh in around 21 lb.
About 1/2 the weight difference will be in the frame. The butted frame will provide a much livelier and resilient feeling. The other big difference between the two is the crankset. The PA10 is usually seen with a heavy, steel, cottered, Stronglight crankset, while the PX10 is usually seen with the much lighter, aluminum, cotterless, Stronglight 93.
About the only other component on the PX10 that is substantially better than the PA10 counterpart is the front derailleur. The parallelogram Super Competition is far superior to the push rod Prestige. As for the other compoents, they are the same, or only slightly better on the PX10.
In the end, the PA10 is basically the equivalent of an entry level UO8, but with racing geometry and tubular wheelset. It is essentially a budget/entry level racing bicycle. The PX10 on the other hand is a high end racing frame equipped with mid range components.
In the early to mid '70s, a PX10 cost about twice the price of a PA10. I haven't been tracking current prices, but I suspect a PX10 now is worth at least four times the price of a PA10? The PA10 should be the better bargain, by far. However, in the end, the PX10 is the better investment. It will provide a much better ride and, in the long run, will give a better return on the investment, should you decide to sell it.
About 1/2 the weight difference will be in the frame. The butted frame will provide a much livelier and resilient feeling. The other big difference between the two is the crankset. The PA10 is usually seen with a heavy, steel, cottered, Stronglight crankset, while the PX10 is usually seen with the much lighter, aluminum, cotterless, Stronglight 93.
About the only other component on the PX10 that is substantially better than the PA10 counterpart is the front derailleur. The parallelogram Super Competition is far superior to the push rod Prestige. As for the other compoents, they are the same, or only slightly better on the PX10.
In the end, the PA10 is basically the equivalent of an entry level UO8, but with racing geometry and tubular wheelset. It is essentially a budget/entry level racing bicycle. The PX10 on the other hand is a high end racing frame equipped with mid range components.
In the early to mid '70s, a PX10 cost about twice the price of a PA10. I haven't been tracking current prices, but I suspect a PX10 now is worth at least four times the price of a PA10? The PA10 should be the better bargain, by far. However, in the end, the PX10 is the better investment. It will provide a much better ride and, in the long run, will give a better return on the investment, should you decide to sell it.
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Thanks, all! You're a wealth of information. I've contacted the seller to continue the conversation about what the bike actually is, rather than what he's claiming. I think I'll probably hold off unless he's really motivated on price.
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Make no mistake about it, $100 for that Peugeot is a good deal, in my opinion. The PX10 is a superior bike but it would take a skilled rider to notice much difference in ride quality. I base that comment on personal experience, not on what I have read or others have said. What is my point..?
What can you buy these days for $100? Not much. But, if you are interested in owning, maintaining and riding a vintage road bicycle, the OP will have a hard time finding a better deal - again, my opinion. To that, add that the Peugeot bears a well known name, making it easier and more likely to sell when and if the time to sell ever comes.
A bike does not have to be top of the line to be worthy. This bottom of the line Torpado was a hoot to restore and fun to ride (with one exception - gearing was way to hard for me to push). I might add that it was in much worse cosmetic condition than the OP's Peugeot...
Sadly, for this old man, the Old School gearing makes it hard to ride...
But, many hours and a few hundred dollars produced a vintage road bike, of Italian heritage, that to me, is a more than worthwhile member of my humble vintage bike collection
One other thing to keep in mind. Chrome plating oxidizes. Put another way, chrome is very subject to rusting when compared to painted surfaces...
So, once again, one might rethink the PX10 choice, compared to a PA10. But for me, the most iconic bike to come out of the vintage road bike days was/is the earlier PX10 offerings. I have been lucky enough to own two and dumb enough to have sold both of them.
What can you buy these days for $100? Not much. But, if you are interested in owning, maintaining and riding a vintage road bicycle, the OP will have a hard time finding a better deal - again, my opinion. To that, add that the Peugeot bears a well known name, making it easier and more likely to sell when and if the time to sell ever comes.
A bike does not have to be top of the line to be worthy. This bottom of the line Torpado was a hoot to restore and fun to ride (with one exception - gearing was way to hard for me to push). I might add that it was in much worse cosmetic condition than the OP's Peugeot...
Sadly, for this old man, the Old School gearing makes it hard to ride...
But, many hours and a few hundred dollars produced a vintage road bike, of Italian heritage, that to me, is a more than worthwhile member of my humble vintage bike collection
One other thing to keep in mind. Chrome plating oxidizes. Put another way, chrome is very subject to rusting when compared to painted surfaces...
So, once again, one might rethink the PX10 choice, compared to a PA10. But for me, the most iconic bike to come out of the vintage road bike days was/is the earlier PX10 offerings. I have been lucky enough to own two and dumb enough to have sold both of them.
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I really like Peugeots but I think whether this bike is worth $100 is marginal at best. The used bike market for C&V bikes has crashed. There is a lot of inventory out there and much of it will be easier to get up and running than this bike and likely have a better quality frame or components. That said, $100 isn't a lot of money and this is a neat bike that is largely intact.
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I don't disagree that things are moving. I've managed to sell stuff as well. Obviously a lot depends on your prices and what you are selling. I do know, though, that I see a lot of inventory that is reasonably priced that does not move. And we have a number of posts from C&V members in other parts of the country who are seeing a slow down in the market as well.
Last edited by bikemig; 08-23-23 at 08:50 AM.
#13
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Hey all,
I'm looking at purchasing a Peugeot PX-10. Seller is asking $100 which seems fine to me assuming all is well with the bike, he says it's a 1970 PX-10E. Any concerns from what y'all see in the pics? Also - what's the difference between a PX-10 and a PX-10E? Thanks for the help!
I'm looking at purchasing a Peugeot PX-10. Seller is asking $100 which seems fine to me assuming all is well with the bike, he says it's a 1970 PX-10E. Any concerns from what y'all see in the pics? Also - what's the difference between a PX-10 and a PX-10E? Thanks for the help!
It's got a cottered crankset.
And, if it was a PX-10e it would have ornamental lugs & Reynolds 531 stickers all over the place.
Wait around. Sooner or later you might find a real PX-10.
I'm still kicking myself for not picking one up in Richmond Virginia a few years ago for $200.
Be Good. Have fun.
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Actually I looked keenly at one of these in 1971, If I had purchased it, I would have wanted to change out the cranks and pedals, negating the
“Budget” part. The one I looked at used Nervex Pro lugs even. $129.00 - I continued to save for another 18 months and bought a Bertin C-37.
was pretty easy to see that the geometry was better than a UO8. The PA had about the same brake reach as the UO8 but was with tubulars, not 27”.
Came in a 22” as I recall too. The missing size from the UO8.
I still half heartedly look for one.
“Budget” part. The one I looked at used Nervex Pro lugs even. $129.00 - I continued to save for another 18 months and bought a Bertin C-37.
was pretty easy to see that the geometry was better than a UO8. The PA had about the same brake reach as the UO8 but was with tubulars, not 27”.
Came in a 22” as I recall too. The missing size from the UO8.
I still half heartedly look for one.