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I'm 170kg looking for recommendation.

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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

I'm 170kg looking for recommendation.

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Old 09-15-17, 02:25 AM
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LaughingBasher
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I'm 170kg looking for recommendation.

Hi guys, im trying to lose weight by cycling such i used to love but sadly due to my weight and budget there's no wheelset that can handle my weight.


So anyone can recommend me on cheap 27.5" wheelset for my MTB?



I currently using a DH wheelset and Maxxis Detonator tyre sadly side wall of the tire starting to cracks...
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Old 09-15-17, 03:34 AM
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sidewalls cracking sounds like you're putting the pressure way too high or they're dry and old, not your weight.

In terms of a wheelset, whats your budget? one mans "budget" price is completely different to another's.

Cheers
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Old 09-15-17, 06:11 AM
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Myosmith
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Please provide more information:

  • Type of riding you do: commuting, paved trails, off road, gravel, road, etc.
  • Make and model or at least the type of bike: road, touring, gravel/adventure, hybrid, MTB.
  • Size of tires and pressures you run.
In general, you'll want features such as 36 butted spokes (don't let anyone tell you straight gauge are stronger), double wall rim, eyelets (single or double), fairly wide rim (increases internal volume of any given tire). You'll also want to pick tires that have a fairly large volume such as; 28mm for a road bike, 32-35mm for a touring, hybrid or gravel bike. Higher tire volumes provided added protection to your wheelset.



As important as the components of the wheelset is the build. Your wheels should be 36-spoke, 4-cross, with adequate and relatively even tension and in both radial and lateral true. Avoid wheel damaging activities such as curb jumping, drops, potholes, or ramming your way over obstacles.
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Old 09-15-17, 09:34 AM
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Bill Kapaun
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Exactly how many spokes do you have?
You can prolong the life o your current wheels by having the spokes PROPERLY & EVENLY tensioned.
That may result in a better wheel than a CHEAP wheel set.
IF you need a new wheel, likely it would just be the rear. In that case, look for an offset spoke bed (OC) rim. It results in a more symmetrical (thus stronger) wheel.

Tire sidewall cracking is a different issue than wheel "strength".
Straight gauge spokes ARE stronger, but butted spokes result in longer wheel life.
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Old 09-15-17, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by LaughingBasher
Hi guys, im trying to lose weight by cycling such i used to love but sadly due to my weight and budget there's no wheelset that can handle my weight.


So anyone can recommend me on cheap 27.5" wheelset for my MTB?



I currently using a DH wheelset and Maxxis Detonator tyre sadly side wall of the tire starting to cracks...
I would suggest you go to a wheel builder and explain what you need, which is some stout rims and at least 36 spokes.
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Old 09-17-17, 03:05 AM
  #6  
LaughingBasher
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Originally Posted by Myosmith
Please provide more information:
Originally Posted by Myosmith
  • Type of riding you do: commuting, paved trails, off road, gravel, road, etc. For now paved trails to lose weight.
  • Make and model or at least the type of bike: road, touring, gravel/adventure, hybrid, MTB. MTB w/ DH wheelset 36H
  • Size of tires and pressures you run. 27.5"x1.5/85PSI
In general, you'll want features such as 36 butted spokes (don't let anyone tell you straight gauge are stronger), double wall rim, eyelets (single or double), fairly wide rim (increases internal volume of any given tire). You'll also want to pick tires that have a fairly large volume such as; 28mm for a road bike, 32-35mm for a touring, hybrid or gravel bike. Higher tire volumes provided added protection to your wheelset.



As important as the components of the wheelset is the build. Your wheels should be 36-spoke, 4-cross, with adequate and relatively even tension and in both radial and lateral true. Avoid wheel damaging activities such as curb jumping, drops, potholes, or ramming your way over obstacles.


Noted, thanks for the tips.

Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
Exactly how many spokes do you have? Currently 36H
You can prolong the life o your current wheels by having the spokes PROPERLY & EVENLY tensioned.
That may result in a better wheel than a CHEAP wheel set.
IF you need a new wheel, likely it would just be the rear. In that case, look for an offset spoke bed (OC) rim. It results in a more symmetrical (thus stronger) wheel.

Tire sidewall cracking is a different issue than wheel "strength".
Straight gauge spokes ARE stronger, but butted spokes result in longer wheel life.
Noted, i felt that it's because of my weight i stretch the rubber rapidly when i steer, the cracks are all located near the rim.
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Old 09-17-17, 05:10 AM
  #7  
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By any chance are your brake pads set too close to the tyre and actually cutting it as you brake?

Or is the wheel out of true and occasionally rubbing the pad?
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Old 09-17-17, 03:04 PM
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I stand corrected, Bill. I should have said "Don't let anyone tell you that straight gauge spokes make a more durable wheel".
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Old 09-17-17, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LaughingBasher

Noted, i felt that it's because of my weight i stretch the rubber rapidly when i steer, the cracks are all located near the rim.
Hmmm . . . I'm heavy and have abused a lot of tires and have never seen what you describe. Could you possibly post some pictures of the problem?

I have a 26" MTB and a wheelset that has held up really well for me is a Rhyno Lite 36H rims, laced with DT Swiss Comp Spokes to Deore hubs.
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Old 09-18-17, 01:05 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Myosmith
Hmmm . . . I'm heavy and have abused a lot of tires and have never seen what you describe. Could you possibly post some pictures of the problem?

I have a 26" MTB and a wheelset that has held up really well for me is a Rhyno Lite 36H rims, laced with DT Swiss Comp Spokes to Deore hubs.

I can't post image/link so replace DOT with .

iDOTimgurDOTcom/aqaUGYWrDOTjpg
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Old 09-18-17, 01:06 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by WOT
By any chance are your brake pads set too close to the tyre and actually cutting it as you brake?

Or is the wheel out of true and occasionally rubbing the pad?

Center lock disc brake abd the rim seem ok to me
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Old 09-18-17, 02:33 AM
  #12  
Myosmith
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Image link takes me to the main page of an image storage website
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Old 09-18-17, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Myosmith
Image link takes me to the main page of an image storage website

Yes i upload the image to imgur
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