Quick Release problem
#1
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Quick Release problem
Anyone ever have a problem with the quick release not being strong enough to hold on a back wheel. I have a Schwinn Le Tour 89' and i have had the back wheel come loose and get cocked sideways on rides. I have since then learned i need to put it much tighter than the front but i put it so tight the other day that my skewer sploded on me. I bought a new skewer and put it decently tight and still today my tire managed to wiggle its way out a bit and get cocked on me. When i originally purchased the bike (used) it had a axel in the back and quick release in the front . Naturally i wanted to be able to change flats in the back without carrying a wrench but maybe there was a reason he didnt have quick release on in the back. Thoughts?
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What type of QR lever are you using ? The newer style exposed cam has less clamping force. Also, with horizontal dropouts, a serrated outer axle nut will grip the frame better than a smooth nut, to help prevent slippage.
Get a good quality enclosed cam.
https://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
Get a good quality enclosed cam.
https://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
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While modern open-cam skewers generate enough clamping force and friction to hold a wheel in a vertical dropout, they are not up to the task of resisting the pull of a chain on a wheel in a horizontal dropout.
Shimano's Dura-Ace skewer is still the last word in holding power, smooth action, and reasonably light weight. Shimano also has a less expensive closed cam skewer that works just fine, or you can have your local shop order good strong skewers from the J&B catalog.
Shimano's Dura-Ace skewer is still the last word in holding power, smooth action, and reasonably light weight. Shimano also has a less expensive closed cam skewer that works just fine, or you can have your local shop order good strong skewers from the J&B catalog.
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Any of the Shimano skewers should work, the recent ones Tiagra/105/Ultegra are all about the same. The important parts: enclosed cam and steel teeth to grip the dropout. The Dura Ace has a nicer finish and the nut is aluminum instead of plastic covered.
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No problems with Campy skewers either. Used them for years in the old days of horizontal dropouts.
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Dura Ace 9000 has the shark fin aero lever. Mechanically I think all the recent DA are very similar. 7700/7800/7900 only look slightly different in the font and tint on the finish.
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Yep, horizontal dropouts are the problem, exacerbated by open cam quick release levers. You have to change one of the two.
#10
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Just one last little thing. Check to see what grooving has been left by the nuts and/or QR used previously on this bike. Sometimes, and I have had this happen, on older bikes, the grooving can be deep enough for the serrations on the acorn nut to not have enough metal to grab on to. Use a flat file to level out the grooving and you may have better results.
Here is a discussion on Sheldon Brown's website about acorn nuts and QRs in general:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
Here is a discussion on Sheldon Brown's website about acorn nuts and QRs in general:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
#11
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Oh and another thought... does the hollow axle protrude at all beyond the outsides of the dropouts? If it does, it doesn't matter whether you use an internal or external cam QR, it won't do up.
I ask this because you say this QR axle is replacing a nutted one on the bike previously. On older bikes the dropout width is narrower than for new bikes and their hubs. I am not saying this is exactly the case here, but it is worth checking and eliminating as a problem.
The ends of the axle have to sit inside the dropout; if they don't, a flat file can get them down to the right dimensions fairly quickly.
I ask this because you say this QR axle is replacing a nutted one on the bike previously. On older bikes the dropout width is narrower than for new bikes and their hubs. I am not saying this is exactly the case here, but it is worth checking and eliminating as a problem.
The ends of the axle have to sit inside the dropout; if they don't, a flat file can get them down to the right dimensions fairly quickly.
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Ok, i check all this stuff out. My the hollow axel does not extend out past the dropouts rather just sits on them nicely. I actually have horizontal drop out too so that makes this even more confusing. I check to see if there are any bite marks from the previous Q.R skewer and there is no evidence that this acorn nut or the previous one is strong enough to bite into whatever (silver plate) material it needs to grab in order to keep it from slipping. This skewer is a cheap 10.00$ one i got from LBS b4 i had any knowledge of skewers haha. Im debating getting a stronger skewer but im also debating what material is there in the drop outs and if its even made to be used with Q.R at all. Should there be grooves or slight grooves from riding atleast 700 miles on my last Q.R skewer or does groove wear only take place over years of riding?
#13
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Ok, i check all this stuff out. My the hollow axel does not extend out past the dropouts rather just sits on them nicely. I actually have horizontal drop out too so that makes this even more confusing. I check to see if there are any bite marks from the previous Q.R skewer and there is no evidence that this acorn nut or the previous one is strong enough to bite into whatever (silver plate) material it needs to grab in order to keep it from slipping. This skewer is a cheap 10.00$ one i got from LBS b4 i had any knowledge of skewers haha. Im debating getting a stronger skewer but im also debating what material is there in the drop outs and if its even made to be used with Q.R at all. Should there be grooves or slight grooves from riding atleast 700 miles on my last Q.R skewer or does groove wear only take place over years of riding?
The dropouts are likely forged steel, so there should be no problems there.
So it's really down to getting a good quality-internal cam QR with steel acorn insert or acorn itself.
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RWS Ratchet Skewers,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZ1Mw2IG_BQ work pretty well