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Any of you have experience using frame saver or other products?

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Any of you have experience using frame saver or other products?

Old 06-09-16, 11:10 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
Experience using Frame Saver on a frame or two, sure. Evidence that it has prevented or slowed internal rust in the couple of years since? Ehhh, I'll get back to you.
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Old 06-10-16, 01:10 AM
  #27  
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Neil Young would tend to agree with there.
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Old 06-10-16, 01:19 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Ronsonic View Post
Do add a drain hole in the BB shell if there isn't one already there. That can make a big difference especially for bearing life.
I will check, but my old mtn bike that was used mostly for commuting, got somewhere between 20 and 25000km out of a good quality square taper and when I had it open, I don't recall it being overly mucky in the bb area, and don't recall a hole down there. Alu frame but ridden in all kinds of weather, but kept in a garage and cared for.
Seems to me that a hole at bottom of shell would be counter productive.
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Old 06-10-16, 06:50 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by djb View Post
Seems to me that a hole at bottom of shell would be counter productive.
Frame builders like Nate Zukas disagree:

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Old 06-10-16, 02:31 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Kopsis View Post
Frame builders like Nate Zukas disagree:
that is really cool, what a neat aesthetic way to put in what they obviously think is useful.
again, very cool.
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Old 06-10-16, 06:05 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Kopsis View Post
Frame builders like Nate Zukas disagree:

Yeah, and IIRC, years ago Colnago had an "Ace of Spades" cutout in their bottom bracket shells.
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Old 06-10-16, 06:34 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by djb View Post
Hi, I'm usually in touring and occasionally in the mechanics section. I've bought a used steel bike that has not been ridden much, but has some little rust issues.
It's a 3 or 4 year old Surly Troll, and I plan to take the hollowtech bb off, partly to learn how to work on them, but also to make sure everything is well greased. I'm going to open up the hubs as well, so that I'm sure of the condition of all the bits and not have any guessing on grease quantity or contamination.
I figure I can pull the fork off and do a frame saver job while it's apart.

It seems that the spray cans of Frame Saver" are not easily found around here, so do you have personal experience using linseed oil, or other products?
No matter what I use, I realise I'll need to be careful of the bb threads and not let them get gummed up.

So from experience, are the canned products worth getting, or are things like Boeshield or linseed going to do a reasonable job?

The bike was kept in a damp barn like structure, there is just a bit of internal surface rust in the tubes, so I figure it's worth taking the time to do this now when I take things apart, and then never think of it again.

Any suggestions, comments or preferences would be good to read.
Thanks
I treated my thin walled bike in 1996 with framesaver when I lived on a sailboat.

Every time I look inside the headtube into the top and bottom tubes, there is no rust. Also from BB to ST and DT
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Old 06-10-16, 07:04 PM
  #33  
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The benefit of a drain hole may depend on where you live. I became a believer years ago when a relatively new bottom bracket died on me and disassembly found a tablespoon of silt that had somehow washed in there and never left.
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Old 06-10-16, 07:42 PM
  #34  
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I put boiled linseed oil in my Karate Monkey three years ago but never checked in the tubes
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Old 08-29-16, 10:54 AM
  #35  
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update: not sure if I mentioned, but after asking around at various bike stores here in Montreal, and even in some car body shops, I was never able to find either Frame Saver or any Amsoil products, so in the end just ordered a small can of Frame Saver from the states and picked it up eventually when I received some other bike parts from Oregon sent to a US PO box in Vermont close to where friends live.

as many of you said, its pretty much a simple process, I did appreciate having an aerosol can and small tube to easily get it into small holes at ends of the chainstays or whatever. I pretty much used common sense in terms of moving frame all around to ensure the stuff moved around on all surfaces, and waited the suggested couple of days before putting parts back on.

I also did liberally put regular old automotive grease from an old tub I have, all over the bb shell threads and headset areas, and plastic bags over the disc calipers, as indeed the stuff did drip out all over, and I didnt want to have to deal with it in places I didnt want it and be a pain in the keester to get out.

thanks for the all the recommendations.

Was it necessary to do? Probably not, but it was worth the extra time given that I wanted to take apart the Hollowtech bb anyway to see how it works, and I did the drop bar change afterwards, so all the cables+housings were coming off.
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Old 08-29-16, 07:59 PM
  #36  
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I poured a bunch of frame saver into an old steel frame of mine. Stupidly I didn't remove the BB. The stuff washed the grease out of it pronto and I had to rebuild it. Otherwise it probably worked fine, not that I'd ever had a problem with the frame.
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Old 08-29-16, 09:27 PM
  #37  
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Heck, I've done all kinds of moves like that over the years, with cars, motorcycles, bikes, household stuff.
I generally classify myself as a bumbler, often I bumble way through repair things. Such is life and sometimes you just have to laugh at yourself.
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Old 08-31-16, 07:35 AM
  #38  
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Another aviation product that can be used is ACF 50. It is a purple colored liquid about as thick as water. It doesn't put on a thick protective layer like LPS 3 does, but will seep into all the cracks and crevasses that water will get into and work its magic. Over time it will attract dirt but not as fast as the heavier coatings like LPS 3.
Justin
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Old 08-31-16, 09:12 AM
  #39  
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thanks for the suggestion, but I'm sure the can of Frame Saver I have will sit on a shelf for the next decade or two....
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