Locking a Utility Bike
#26
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I still stand by my recommendation of no oil in a lock. Once you put oil in it it is in there and very difficult to clean out. Oil has volatiles in it that will eventually evaporate and leave a sticky goo. Once you put oil in a lock adding graphite makes an even bigger mess. Been there done that learned my lesson. In colder climates oil can actually make the problem worse.
Aaron
Aaron
I agree that motor oils of any kind will gum up the tumblers in any lock.
That said, 3 in 1 household oil is a very refined distillate designed to lubricate and protect all surfaces it's applied to. https://www.3inone.com/products/multi-purpose/
__________________
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
Last edited by Nightshade; 11-22-13 at 01:03 PM.
#27
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I read someone who said it, I'll say it too, make your bike ugly. I have a baby seat on the back of mine but most of the time its empty but it adds a lot of ugly to it. Also having large white wall tires on a bike that looks meh adds to the ugly. It doesn't take much for the bike next to mine to look like a better, more salable target.
Few pictures of it are in the trailer threads...
Oh, a trailer helps too. I had someone come into our yard and steal my boy's 20" bike. He didn't steal either of my bikes, nor my daughter's full suspension 26" bike, mostly because I'm guessing they wanted out fast and both my bikes were attached to trailers and surrounded my daughters bike. They took the quick and easy...that was my guess.
Few pictures of it are in the trailer threads...
Oh, a trailer helps too. I had someone come into our yard and steal my boy's 20" bike. He didn't steal either of my bikes, nor my daughter's full suspension 26" bike, mostly because I'm guessing they wanted out fast and both my bikes were attached to trailers and surrounded my daughters bike. They took the quick and easy...that was my guess.
#28
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I'm sorry to hear that your son's bike stolen. It's frustrating to have to ugly-up a bicycle to deter a thief. Maybe it's a girl thing, but I love making my bike pretty... I've been a driver as long as I have been a bicyclist, and I've never cared about the type of car I drive, am lackadaisical about keeping it running, don't wash it, and it was broken into and I was like, meh, nothing was taken, because there was nothing to take (with 4 kids, though, I know I should keep it).
But with my bike, I am a total mother hen over her... she runs smoothly, looks good, and I want to keep her that way... she's inspiring to ride and take places and make memories with my family.
So, I guess, for now, I'm focusing on locks as my way to keep her safe... maybe I'll get a milk crate for the back, because it's practical and will "ugly it up a bit," but even that one is a tough one (it would cover the beautiful wood seat top on the rack)
P.S. I'm not upset with you/your suggestion, just frustrated that a thief makes us spend more money on locks and/or we have to uglify our bikes just because there are morally-defunct thieves, et al.
But with my bike, I am a total mother hen over her... she runs smoothly, looks good, and I want to keep her that way... she's inspiring to ride and take places and make memories with my family.
So, I guess, for now, I'm focusing on locks as my way to keep her safe... maybe I'll get a milk crate for the back, because it's practical and will "ugly it up a bit," but even that one is a tough one (it would cover the beautiful wood seat top on the rack)
P.S. I'm not upset with you/your suggestion, just frustrated that a thief makes us spend more money on locks and/or we have to uglify our bikes just because there are morally-defunct thieves, et al.
#29
Junior Member
OK, I have ugly bikes because they're 'put' together from craigslist and dumpster finds, and live in suburbs where folks just throw their bikes in the dirt next to the store and don't hear alot about theft. BUT I have heavy cables and kryptonites which I switch back and forth.
My most concern is when I have the bikes on the back of my car in a strap-on rack and have to pit stop or whatever and out of sight of car. No lockable 'hitch' for my little car and bikes don't fit inside. So I just lock them all together in one big 'lump' of bicycles when I have several to make it hard to handle. But with a single bike, locking it to itself and the fold up rack**********??? Not quick release hubs so removing wheels is inconvenient.
Anyone else have this concern?
My most concern is when I have the bikes on the back of my car in a strap-on rack and have to pit stop or whatever and out of sight of car. No lockable 'hitch' for my little car and bikes don't fit inside. So I just lock them all together in one big 'lump' of bicycles when I have several to make it hard to handle. But with a single bike, locking it to itself and the fold up rack**********??? Not quick release hubs so removing wheels is inconvenient.
Anyone else have this concern?
#30
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I use a relatively heavy U lock to lock the front wheel to the downtube, and use a thick, simple, vinyl-covered steel cable to tether the U to a rack.
I considered a rear ring lock that would take a cable like the Defender but I don't like the idea of having to leave the key in the lock when riding. That just means I'd have a loose key to pocket when parking/locking the bike. I also like how my front U lock is conspicuous from a distance.
I also use a seat leash since I have a QR seatpost clamp and the post and stoker stem are not very common or cheap.
For gear, I wonder about using a Pacsafe mesh locking web. I think that should work quite well with the front basket.
As for ugly, hopefully my DIY running boards help. :-)
I considered a rear ring lock that would take a cable like the Defender but I don't like the idea of having to leave the key in the lock when riding. That just means I'd have a loose key to pocket when parking/locking the bike. I also like how my front U lock is conspicuous from a distance.
I also use a seat leash since I have a QR seatpost clamp and the post and stoker stem are not very common or cheap.
For gear, I wonder about using a Pacsafe mesh locking web. I think that should work quite well with the front basket.
As for ugly, hopefully my DIY running boards help. :-)
#31
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It is correct that oil can goo up a lock in cold climates (including 3-in-1 which I personally goo-ed up a padlock with once). It is also true that if a good clean highly refined oil is used in a warmer climate it will not usually goo up the lock and work just fine.
If you don't like the mess of graphite then use a silicon based clear lube, like the stuff that comes in a spray can like WD-40. Silicon based lubes continue to lubricate even when dried up like graphite based lubes and unlike oil based lubes. Since I mentioned it WD-40 is a cleaner and de-binder not a lube. It can be used to get a lock working right again including one that has been goo-ed up by oil but it shouldn't be used as a lubricant.
Long story short - graphite based lubes work and continue to work even when dried out but are messy. Silicon based lubes work and continue to work even when dried out and are not near as messy and leave stains and stuff like graphite lubes do. You will find it in the same general area as WD-40 in a hardware store and it will usually be clearly marked as silicon based and will usually be more expensive then WD-40.
If you don't like the mess of graphite then use a silicon based clear lube, like the stuff that comes in a spray can like WD-40. Silicon based lubes continue to lubricate even when dried up like graphite based lubes and unlike oil based lubes. Since I mentioned it WD-40 is a cleaner and de-binder not a lube. It can be used to get a lock working right again including one that has been goo-ed up by oil but it shouldn't be used as a lubricant.
Long story short - graphite based lubes work and continue to work even when dried out but are messy. Silicon based lubes work and continue to work even when dried out and are not near as messy and leave stains and stuff like graphite lubes do. You will find it in the same general area as WD-40 in a hardware store and it will usually be clearly marked as silicon based and will usually be more expensive then WD-40.
#32
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I just got a Abus ring lock!! Thanks for all the advice on lube... I will look into both the graphite stuff and the silicon stuff --will most likely print out this info (otherwise I will forget the details). Good information here! Thank you.
Rdlange~ I wish I could help you out regarding locking your bicycle to a rack... try asking the question again, maybe in the "General Cycling" discussion sub-board, so it doesn't get lost within another thread. I hope others will be able to help! Lots of great people & advice on these boards. <-- I hope this comes out sincerely and not snarky (meant as sincere)
Rdlange~ I wish I could help you out regarding locking your bicycle to a rack... try asking the question again, maybe in the "General Cycling" discussion sub-board, so it doesn't get lost within another thread. I hope others will be able to help! Lots of great people & advice on these boards. <-- I hope this comes out sincerely and not snarky (meant as sincere)
#33
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I have ring locks on 4 bikes, two of which has spent much of their life out in the weather. If you lube it occasionally it is a non issue IMHO. If it does get jammed it would be pretty easy to cut with a mini grinder or dremel tool. FWIW my single favorite feature is the key is trapped in the lock while it is open, meaning you cannot ride off and forget your keys at home, which I have done more than once with my U-lock
#34
Banned
the pins and all that mech in the lock can rust, so dont be so denying that No, Even thin oil, be introduced.
[ my AXA ring lock, stays in the key in the lock to ride , mode,
though I have a piece of shock cord, and a spring toggle.
that keeps the key on my wrist when I lock up the bike,
and looping the cord over the rack strut , when the key is in the lock.
[ my AXA ring lock, stays in the key in the lock to ride , mode,
though I have a piece of shock cord, and a spring toggle.
that keeps the key on my wrist when I lock up the bike,
and looping the cord over the rack strut , when the key is in the lock.
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-26-13 at 03:24 PM.
#35
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locks keep honest people honest.....or something like that
a thief will go for the easiest target or if they know they have time, the one with the best resale/pawn price
there has been advice on make your bike ugly and I have thought of that several times, but I like my stuff looking nice even if it is old. All of my bikes are old, but they look good and that can be a bad thing, as I often have people come up and say, wow nice bike, or nice expensive bike
when I prob have less invested then they do in their big box store stuff
all that said, a few weeks ago, my son had to get a new mid line parking brake cable made for a modified Toyota he has and at the store ( a farm store) he ha dthem cut a piece of braided ss cable and attach two crimp ends to his demenisions. I always kept that in the back of my mind.
Friday I went in to the same farm store and had them make me two cables. I don't remember size right now. One is probabally 1/8 inch and about 5 feet with a loop at each end. Another I had made up in a small 14 gauge ss cable about 4 feet long with loops. I wont carry these things all the time, but when I know I am going to have to leave the bike un attended for a long period, im gonna carry them. the longer thicker cable is going to route through my front wheel and back to the lock. the shorter thinner one is going to go through my pannier handles, up through my seat frame and back to the main lock.
my theory is , if it looks complicated for a thief, they will look for an easier target
a thief will go for the easiest target or if they know they have time, the one with the best resale/pawn price
there has been advice on make your bike ugly and I have thought of that several times, but I like my stuff looking nice even if it is old. All of my bikes are old, but they look good and that can be a bad thing, as I often have people come up and say, wow nice bike, or nice expensive bike
when I prob have less invested then they do in their big box store stuff
all that said, a few weeks ago, my son had to get a new mid line parking brake cable made for a modified Toyota he has and at the store ( a farm store) he ha dthem cut a piece of braided ss cable and attach two crimp ends to his demenisions. I always kept that in the back of my mind.
Friday I went in to the same farm store and had them make me two cables. I don't remember size right now. One is probabally 1/8 inch and about 5 feet with a loop at each end. Another I had made up in a small 14 gauge ss cable about 4 feet long with loops. I wont carry these things all the time, but when I know I am going to have to leave the bike un attended for a long period, im gonna carry them. the longer thicker cable is going to route through my front wheel and back to the lock. the shorter thinner one is going to go through my pannier handles, up through my seat frame and back to the main lock.
my theory is , if it looks complicated for a thief, they will look for an easier target
#36
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That's why I like my old Schwinn Le Tour I have about $130 in including new tires I put on it and a rear rack. (more once I put fenders on it eventually)
I can't hardly justify an expensive bicycle that might get stolen or torn up unless I can somehow have insurance on it like I can a far I feel is worth having full coverage on. $300 is probably the most I'd ever want to have tied up in a bicycle myself.
Plus there is such a thing as "grand theft auto" as a crime. Even motorcycle theft is taken more seriously by police than bike theft. Bike theft usually doesn't carry much of a penalty since it ends up being petty theft, I think. I might be wrong.. and it might vary by location.
Oh and on the subject of bike locks... I got the heaviest braided steel with rubber coating one I could with a pad lock (that I could find at Wal-Mart, I needed one right then). I also have a "Club" branded one (like the steer wheel locks) but it can lead to problems with the key. Thankfully when mine did, I had it off the bike and I was at home. It uses a security type key (like soda machines, etc) and it has notches to prevent it from being removed if the lock isn't in the lock or unlock position. Well, mine did and I couldn't put the key back in. A couple minutes with a dremel tool to grind off that stupid extra notch on the key made it so I could put it into the lock regardless of the position of the lock. The lock itself is still as secure, I just had to fix the key so it can't have that happen again. It's heavier duty than any U-shackle type I have ever seen. I got it for $5 at big lots a couple years ago:
I can't hardly justify an expensive bicycle that might get stolen or torn up unless I can somehow have insurance on it like I can a far I feel is worth having full coverage on. $300 is probably the most I'd ever want to have tied up in a bicycle myself.
Plus there is such a thing as "grand theft auto" as a crime. Even motorcycle theft is taken more seriously by police than bike theft. Bike theft usually doesn't carry much of a penalty since it ends up being petty theft, I think. I might be wrong.. and it might vary by location.
Oh and on the subject of bike locks... I got the heaviest braided steel with rubber coating one I could with a pad lock (that I could find at Wal-Mart, I needed one right then). I also have a "Club" branded one (like the steer wheel locks) but it can lead to problems with the key. Thankfully when mine did, I had it off the bike and I was at home. It uses a security type key (like soda machines, etc) and it has notches to prevent it from being removed if the lock isn't in the lock or unlock position. Well, mine did and I couldn't put the key back in. A couple minutes with a dremel tool to grind off that stupid extra notch on the key made it so I could put it into the lock regardless of the position of the lock. The lock itself is still as secure, I just had to fix the key so it can't have that happen again. It's heavier duty than any U-shackle type I have ever seen. I got it for $5 at big lots a couple years ago:
Last edited by Cubey; 04-01-14 at 05:11 PM.
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