I want to buy a really good wheel truing stand.
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I suspect that the ultimate wheel truing setup of the future will be:
a) A home LIDAR scan that creates a 3D virtual representation of your rim and;
b) Some software or AI that recommends adjustments based on the scan.
I have LIDAR at work and it's not all that expensive compared to some of these high end truing stands.
I have mixed feelings about this. Yeah, a truing setup that's efficient and needs no calibration would be cool. However, the software intrusion might detract from the "craft".
a) A home LIDAR scan that creates a 3D virtual representation of your rim and;
b) Some software or AI that recommends adjustments based on the scan.
I have LIDAR at work and it's not all that expensive compared to some of these high end truing stands.
I have mixed feelings about this. Yeah, a truing setup that's efficient and needs no calibration would be cool. However, the software intrusion might detract from the "craft".
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I love threads that start out with, “I want to buy a really good…” and basically end with, “but I don’t want to spend the money to buy a really good…”
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remember a tool like the spokeservice truing system are aimed less at the high end hobbyist than the huge bike factories in Taiwan and China.
automated wheel building offers significant savings in terms of wheels built per labor hour.
the high end home hobbyist is very much a niche market.
wheelsmith used robotic wheel building systems to "rough true" their wheels.
Holland Mechanics is the industry leader in this realm Bicycle wheel - Holland Mechanics
/markp
automated wheel building offers significant savings in terms of wheels built per labor hour.
the high end home hobbyist is very much a niche market.
wheelsmith used robotic wheel building systems to "rough true" their wheels.
Holland Mechanics is the industry leader in this realm Bicycle wheel - Holland Mechanics
/markp
#29
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If you're a podcaster, you might enjoy this: https://www.econtalk.org/rebecca-str...hands-of-time/
It's book interview with one of the few remaining watch restorers in the UK. Entirely by coincidence, I listened to it on yesterday's bike ride.
It's book interview with one of the few remaining watch restorers in the UK. Entirely by coincidence, I listened to it on yesterday's bike ride.
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You don't need a great truing stand to build good wheels. And you certainly don't need a great stand to true a wheel that is just out of true. Many people have built wheels using the bike frame as their stand. Me included. I built my first two pairs of wheels this way. When I worked in a bike shop, we had a Schwinn/Park TS-2 truing stand. It wasn't centered any more since someone dropped it resulting in an offset. It wasn't a big deal for us, we either flipped the wheel or used a dishing tool to center the wheel. I use a Minora truing stand now. It is not as stiff as a Park, but in folds up smaller and works for my once every two year pair of wheels that I build. Truing a already built wheel usually gets done n the bike.
Don't kid yourself that getting a more expensive tool will make you a better wheel builder. Especially for someone with less experience. If you have the money and space,get a Park or Unior. If not get something else and lean on that.
By the way, I like Roger Musson's design truing stand. It, or one of its variants, will probably be my next stand.
You don't need to see the whole video. He shows the stand and the dishing gauge within the first few minutes. You can see that it is a sturdy stand.
Don't kid yourself that getting a more expensive tool will make you a better wheel builder. Especially for someone with less experience. If you have the money and space,get a Park or Unior. If not get something else and lean on that.
By the way, I like Roger Musson's design truing stand. It, or one of its variants, will probably be my next stand.
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because a lot of times you are paying much more for the brand. Meanwhile there are other lesser known brands that make incredible products also but cant charge as much because they dont have brand recognition. its basic economics. So it pays to ask around.
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In the bicycle tool world, you get what you pay for.
I dished out for a park not because I build a lot of wheels, it's because I true a lot of wheels that in a bike shop they would toss.
That's why the hammers and wood and c clamps next to my stand. I'm not easy on it (I don't hammer while in the stand.)
I dished out for a park not because I build a lot of wheels, it's because I true a lot of wheels that in a bike shop they would toss.
That's why the hammers and wood and c clamps next to my stand. I'm not easy on it (I don't hammer while in the stand.)
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Superchamps have a notoriously sloppy rim joint that makes a "bump" under braking. the block lets the builder straighten the mismatch at the joint.
/markp
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#34
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So long as the stand can be clamped down and has adjustable rods to align the rim there is no need to spend $400. Also helps to have a tool to check the amount of dish for the wheel.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Por...Y4Y?th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Wh...49419660&psc=1
Bikemaster sells on Amazon for $112.71 with free shipping
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Por...Y4Y?th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Wh...49419660&psc=1
Bikemaster sells on Amazon for $112.71 with free shipping
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I guess I am in the ball park that Andy is in and it is not inexpensive. I own the latest model of the VAR tool and it works quite well but is not cheap to buy or in quality. For around $1k it can be had but it is not for the timid builder or one who searches less than professional quality tools. I know, and "get" that there are plenty of tools that will work well and give good results. They do not need to be costly, but efficient. My experience is with quality tools they cost more up front but pay for themselves in the long run. But every mechanic needs to walk before running. So building up a great set of tools can be had over time. If you can afford $100 buy that tool and use it till you need to upgrade. Smiles, MH
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You don't need a great truing stand to build good wheels. And you certainly don't need a great stand to true a wheel that is just out of true. Many people have built wheels using the bike frame as their stand. Me included. I built my first two pairs of wheels this way. When I worked in a bike shop, we had a Schwinn/Park TS-2 truing stand. It wasn't centered any more since someone dropped it resulting in an offset. It wasn't a big deal for us, we either flipped the wheel or used a dishing tool to center the wheel. I use a Minora truing stand now. It is not as stiff as a Park, but in folds up smaller and works for my once every two year pair of wheels that I build. Truing a already built wheel usually gets done n the bike.
Don't kid yourself that getting a more expensive tool will make you a better wheel builder. Especially for someone with less experience. If you have the money and space,get a Park or Unior. If not get something else and lean on that.
By the way, I like Roger Musson's design truing stand. It, or one of its variants, will probably be my next stand. Roger Musson Truing Stand You don't need to see the whole video. He shows the stand and the dishing gauge within the first few minutes. You can see that it is a sturdy stand.
Don't kid yourself that getting a more expensive tool will make you a better wheel builder. Especially for someone with less experience. If you have the money and space,get a Park or Unior. If not get something else and lean on that.
By the way, I like Roger Musson's design truing stand. It, or one of its variants, will probably be my next stand. Roger Musson Truing Stand You don't need to see the whole video. He shows the stand and the dishing gauge within the first few minutes. You can see that it is a sturdy stand.
If all or part of your income is derived from building wheels..then step into whatever tool your experience tells you is necessary.
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Interesting...
...have a look at this Spence Wolf Interview - Bike Forums
Back in the mid-'70's a friend (who's built many, many wheels in his lifetime) recommended doing this so I did it to the wheels that came on that Motobecane Grand Record I'm riding still. To my knowledge they've never been on a truing stand. When I spin 'em on the bike I can see a teensy bit of radial runout (how much is too much?) but virtually none axially using the brake pads and stays as indicators.
I don't ride much now (strictly recreational, shortish distances) but back then we were doing velodrome stuff & longish rides.
I don't see it done hardly ever on other bikes I've looked closely at over the years but with changes in metal technology since then I'd have to think it's mostly because of the better metals and ways for fabricating parts besides the obvious that it makes truing harder once a wheel's been ridden on. Maybe more common on track bikes than for the road too.
Last edited by spclark; 08-15-23 at 06:25 AM.
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The simple fact is the right tool will make any job easier. The Park has a great reputation for a reason. And they charge accordingly.
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What tie and soldering does is make the hub flange effectively larger, and distributes the loads over more spokes.
Back in the day wnen rims were soft and weighed. 300-400g this was a helpful tweak.
Probably not necessary with modern rims and spokes which (as Spence says in the article) are so much better than the old stuff.
Spence used a home-made truing stand made of angle iron on a steel plate. It was adjustable in axle width and wheel diameter. Primitive by today's standards.
My yellow Cinelli has wheels built for me by Spence - Campy hi flange, DT MA2 rims and of course Tied and Soldered. They ride pretty harsh I would say.
/markp
Back in the day wnen rims were soft and weighed. 300-400g this was a helpful tweak.
Probably not necessary with modern rims and spokes which (as Spence says in the article) are so much better than the old stuff.
Spence used a home-made truing stand made of angle iron on a steel plate. It was adjustable in axle width and wheel diameter. Primitive by today's standards.
My yellow Cinelli has wheels built for me by Spence - Campy hi flange, DT MA2 rims and of course Tied and Soldered. They ride pretty harsh I would say.
/markp
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Shopping sales and closeouts helps
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When you get to tools my experience has taught me a different lesson. It is hard to cheapen a good product and retain the profit margin that the boss and shareholder want to see. Good metal is more expensive, and you can’t always see that, only using it does it become apparent. Research and Design has a huge cost, this is why companies like Park are always copied.
A different packet and brand name does not cost so much to run off, so for crisps, and such like in the supermarket I buy a cheap one and an expensive one and try them (I also look at the ingredients, but that is a discussion for a different thread!) and make my own choice. I do admit I try this with rims!
You then run into aftermarket care. This is where the real value comes in. I hate the waste the human race is wrecking the planet with. I try to buy once, and I expect spares to be available, with a reasonable warranty. The upshot? Yes, look around but consider all the angles, once you do this, Park tools is good value really. A brand that comes from a reputation of use, is the one to value. Ciao.
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Haven't been looking in here long yet this interview is the first place I've seen any mention of tie & soldering spokes.
Back in the mid-'70's a friend (who's built many, many wheels in his lifetime) recommended doing this so I did it to the wheels that came on that Motobecane Grand Record I'm riding still. To my knowledge they've never been on a truing stand. When I spin 'em on the bike I can see a teensy bit of radial runout (how much is too much?) but virtually none axially using the brake pads and stays as indicators.
I don't ride much now (strictly recreational, shortish distances) but back then we were doing velodrome stuff & longish rides.
I don't see it done hardly ever on other bikes I've looked closely at over the years but with changes in metal technology since then I'd have to think it's mostly because of the better metals and ways for fabricating parts besides the obvious that it makes truing harder once a wheel's been ridden on. Maybe more common on track bikes than for the road too.
Back in the mid-'70's a friend (who's built many, many wheels in his lifetime) recommended doing this so I did it to the wheels that came on that Motobecane Grand Record I'm riding still. To my knowledge they've never been on a truing stand. When I spin 'em on the bike I can see a teensy bit of radial runout (how much is too much?) but virtually none axially using the brake pads and stays as indicators.
I don't ride much now (strictly recreational, shortish distances) but back then we were doing velodrome stuff & longish rides.
I don't see it done hardly ever on other bikes I've looked closely at over the years but with changes in metal technology since then I'd have to think it's mostly because of the better metals and ways for fabricating parts besides the obvious that it makes truing harder once a wheel's been ridden on. Maybe more common on track bikes than for the road too.
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The late Jobst Brandt performed an experiment that demonstrated the uselessness of tying and soldering, at least for high-quality wheel components.
I'm inclined to agree with Brandt's conclusion, as much for the results of the static testing he undertook as for developments in bicycle component engineering between early '70's and when he did his testing a quarter century later. Since then component designs have been refined further yet along with refinements in methodologies for their use, all to our benefit.
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Would I like a better stand? Well, duh, sure! Is it worth the price to me? Well, no, not really. TBH, it'd be conspicuous consumption. OTOH, if I went into business building or fixing wheels, the cost of a good stand would be an investment in my own productivity, and well worth the price.
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Years ago, I wanted to build some wheels and looked into the Park Tools TS2. A used one at the time could be had for around $200. Almost pulled the trigger but eventually settled for a Minoura stand just like the ones shared in this thread. Worked fine, but having used the Park Tools TS2 stands at various bike co-ops before, I knew what I was missing.
But perhaps more important is the stand/mount. I was living in a small apartment with limited work area and I basically had to put the stand on the ground to work on my wheels. I don't think the TS2 would have worked better in those conditions. I think if I had a proper work bench even the cheap Minoura would have been better to work with. Obviously if you can clamp the stand to the bench that would be ideal, but if you cannot then maybe you won't feel the full benefit of having a nicer stand. The Minoura stand I have doesn't look like it was meant to be clamped to a bench surface.
Anyway, 9 years later I've built 3 sets of wheels and trued maybe a half dozen individual wheels. The Minoura sits in storage in my garage except for the rare occasion. I have since moved into a bigger place but I still don't have a proper work bench (or dedicated working area, period). I guess count me as someone who doesn't regret not getting the TS2.
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#47
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was living in a small apartment with limited work area and I basically had to put the stand on the ground to work on my wheels. I don't think the TS2 would have worked better in those conditions. I think if I had a proper work bench even the cheap Minoura would have been better to work with. Obviously if you can clamp the stand to the bench that would be ideal, but if you cannot then maybe you won't feel the full benefit of having a nicer stand. The Minoura stand I have doesn't look like it was meant to be clamped to a bench surface.
The Minoura can be screwed to a board and then clamp that to the table.
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Like Andy, I would rather just build the wheels in the bike than use a stand that isn't highly rigid like the good park.
Your eyes are much better gauges than gauges.
Spend money on a good dishing tool, if you don't want to flip the wheels.
Your eyes are much better gauges than gauges.
Spend money on a good dishing tool, if you don't want to flip the wheels.
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The late Jobst Brandt performed an experiment that demonstrated the uselessness of tying and soldering, at least for high-quality wheel components.
So even though you may not be able to "measure" any difference in a tied and soldered wheel when using deflection guages to measure stiffness against forces applied, they do "feel different". It is like the difference between a "real" Stradivarius and just another violin made in Cremona (Italy). There is something that is beyond the reach of first order measurement. The rider (or musician) can perceive it but it is damn near impossible to quantify. Something like the musical phenomenon described as "attack".
I respect Jobst, but I do not regard his work as gospel. He had significant blind spots and predjudices. I knew the guy, rode with him a few times.
just my opinion
/markp
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So even though you may not be able to "measure" any difference in a tied and soldered wheel when using deflection guages to measure stiffness against forces applied, they do "feel different". It is like the difference between a "real" Stradivarius and just another violin made in Cremona (Italy). There is something that is beyond the reach of first order measurement. The rider (or musician) can perceive it but it is damn near impossible to quantify. Something like the musical phenomenon described as "attack".
On a bass guitar forum I frequent, a noted designer of high-end bass amplifiers once mentioned that his first job out of college was working for a high-end stereo retailer. After he'd been there for a year or so, he was assigned the task of setting up a comparison of several stereo amplifiers for a roomful of writers who worked for audiophile magazines.
So he set up the amplifiers with a switcher designed to enable instant comparisons between the units. On the day, he told the writers which amplifier they were listening to and the price of each and asked for opinions. The most expensive amplifier elicited the standard praise - "burnished highs," "airy, three-dimensional sound stage," etc., etc. The less expensive amplifiers got proportionally less flowery assessments.
It was only afterward that he revealed to the writers that the wires running from the switcher to the table holding the amplifiers weren't connected to anything. The same amplifier had been used throughout the demonstration. They weren't happy to hear that.
Fortunately, he'd been careful to line up a new job ahead of time.
Another example: double-blind testing performed with professional violinists has recently demonstrated that (a) the professional violinists, including those playing the violins and those listening, were unable to identify which violins were Stradivari and other multi-million-dollar originals and which were built in recent decades and that (b) some of the recently built violins were assessed as sounding better than the original ones.