Wheel upgrade or new bike?
#26
I eat carbide.
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OP - rim brake bike = don't waste any time putting a new set of extremely expensive wheels on it. You can find a pile of used wheels in just about every marketplace known to man. The disc conversion that everyone has done has made the used value of what were $2800 wheels on the level of $500-$600 at most. Go one generation back and they are even less.
Of note - to my customers even if they are buying a new set of rim brake wheels I make sure they get them spoked high enough to allow me to later cut out their rim brake hubs and replace them with disc hubs. That allows them to use the rims way longer than if they went with a lower spoke count. Also allows them to buy a new bike and ditch the stock wheels right when they buy it in order to regain some $ or pay for the conversion.
Of note - to my customers even if they are buying a new set of rim brake wheels I make sure they get them spoked high enough to allow me to later cut out their rim brake hubs and replace them with disc hubs. That allows them to use the rims way longer than if they went with a lower spoke count. Also allows them to buy a new bike and ditch the stock wheels right when they buy it in order to regain some $ or pay for the conversion.
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#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
OP - rim brake bike = don't waste any time putting a new set of extremely expensive wheels on it. You can find a pile of used wheels in just about every marketplace known to man. The disc conversion that everyone has done has made the used value of what were $2800 wheels on the level of $500-$600 at most. Go one generation back and they are even less.
Of note - to my customers even if they are buying a new set of rim brake wheels I make sure they get them spoked high enough to allow me to later cut out their rim brake hubs and replace them with disc hubs. That allows them to use the rims way longer than if they went with a lower spoke count. Also allows them to buy a new bike and ditch the stock wheels right when they buy it in order to regain some $ or pay for the conversion.
Of note - to my customers even if they are buying a new set of rim brake wheels I make sure they get them spoked high enough to allow me to later cut out their rim brake hubs and replace them with disc hubs. That allows them to use the rims way longer than if they went with a lower spoke count. Also allows them to buy a new bike and ditch the stock wheels right when they buy it in order to regain some $ or pay for the conversion.
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Does anyone have feedback on the Cannondale SystemSix Carbon Ultegra? My LBS appears to have this bike in stock and in my size.
#29
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Hi guys, new to the forum and need some guidance. I've been road cycling for the last eight years and currently ride a 2016 Colnago CX Zero, Full Carbon, 105 group set. I was considering a new bike but not sure it's the correct route. My typical rides range from 25-65 miles and I'd love to shed some bike weight. Do you think it's worth getting a new bike or upgrading the wheels?
In the mountains, 500g lighter wheels will increase speed 0.7% cutting 25 seconds an hour or save 1.75 watts given a 70 kg rider on a 9 kg bicycle producing 250 watts.
If that 500 g was at the rim, it would save that rider 0.079 kj accelerating from 0–20 MPH which is the energy needed to cover 12 feet at 20 MPH. Actual gains will be less.
I was looking at Zipp's 303 Firecrest Carbon Tubular Rim-Brake. Thoughts on which direction to take? Thanks in advance!
A diet can make the average American male 25% faster in the mountains. Even a 150 pound guy who’s thin by non-cycling standards can gain 10%.
https://www.quora.com/What-would-imp.../Drew-Eckhardt
better ways to improve speed with equipment and their power savings at 20 MPH include:
- Spending $100 on nice tires which can save 15–20 watts. I like Continental GP4000SIIs which are a fast tire that’s long lasting and flat resistant. The GP5000 is better and available in widths up to 32mm.
- Spending $50 on a previous season Louis Garneau custom program Mondo aero jersey size sample for 5–10 watts. With 80% of total drag from the rider that’s where the big gains are. Retail a jersey like that would run $150-$200.
- Spending $30 on latex tubes for 2.6 - 6.0 watts. I wouldn’t do that if I wasn’t racing because they require adding air daily not once a week.
- Spending $2 on a razor to shave your legs for 3–5 watts.
You might really enjoy a nicer bike. I do, riding a titanium frame with my favorite Campagnolo parts ever made and custom wheels which exactly matches my taste.
Just don't expect it to make you faster. Mine hasn't, except when I apply the power meter to a training program or pacing a solo ride.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 09-02-20 at 11:22 AM.
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
No. Starting with a contemporary 25-30mm deep alloy rim not the venerable Mavic Open Pro which was slow 20 years ago, $1500-$2000 carbon fiber wheels will save you 1.5 out of 200 watts at 20 MPH and typical yaw angles, increasing to 4W at 30 MPH.
In the mountains, 500g lighter wheels will increase speed 0.7% cutting 25 seconds an hour or save 1.75 watts given a 70 kg rider on a 9 kg bicycle producing 250 watts.
If that 500 g was at the rim, it would save that rider 0.079 kj accelerating from 0–20 MPH which is the energy needed to cover 12 feet at 20 MPH. Actual gains will be less.
Follow a good structured training plan if you want to go faster. Three months can add 50 Watts. Buy a power meter to guide your workouts and provide feedback about what's happening so you can make adjustments. Learn how to use it.
A diet can make the average American male 25% faster in the mountains. Even a 150 pound guy who’s thin by non-cycling standards can gain 10%.
https://www.quora.com/What-would-imp.../Drew-Eckhardt
better ways to improve speed with equipment and their power savings at 20 MPH include:
You might really enjoy a nicer bike. I do, riding a titanium frame with my favorite Campagnolo parts ever made and custom wheels which exactly matches my taste.
Just don't expect it to make you faster. Mine hasn't, except when I apply the power meter to a training program or pacing a solo ride.
In the mountains, 500g lighter wheels will increase speed 0.7% cutting 25 seconds an hour or save 1.75 watts given a 70 kg rider on a 9 kg bicycle producing 250 watts.
If that 500 g was at the rim, it would save that rider 0.079 kj accelerating from 0–20 MPH which is the energy needed to cover 12 feet at 20 MPH. Actual gains will be less.
Follow a good structured training plan if you want to go faster. Three months can add 50 Watts. Buy a power meter to guide your workouts and provide feedback about what's happening so you can make adjustments. Learn how to use it.
A diet can make the average American male 25% faster in the mountains. Even a 150 pound guy who’s thin by non-cycling standards can gain 10%.
https://www.quora.com/What-would-imp.../Drew-Eckhardt
better ways to improve speed with equipment and their power savings at 20 MPH include:
- Spending $100 on nice tires which can save 15–20 watts. I like Continental GP4000SIIs which are a fast tire that’s long lasting and flat resistant. The GP5000 is better and available in widths up to 32mm.
- Spending $50 on a previous season Louis Garneau custom program Mondo aero jersey size sample for 5–10 watts. With 80% of total drag from the rider that’s where the big gains are. Retail a jersey like that would run $150-$200.
- Spending $30 on latex tubes for 2.6 - 6.0 watts. I wouldn’t do that if I wasn’t racing because they require adding air daily not once a week.
- Spending $2 on a razor to shave your legs for 3–5 watts.
You might really enjoy a nicer bike. I do, riding a titanium frame with my favorite Campagnolo parts ever made and custom wheels which exactly matches my taste.
Just don't expect it to make you faster. Mine hasn't, except when I apply the power meter to a training program or pacing a solo ride.