DenisH

I recently had two recumbents converted to Bafang mid drives. The display is a C965. It is satisfactory except the cable between the display and the 3-button control is hard wired to about 10 inches. With the long handlebars on the recumbents I would like at least 14 inches so the button could be next to my thumb rather than in the middle of the handlebar. Has anybody here modified this display to lengthen the cable? I believe I have the skills to splice in an extra 6 inches, but it would be easier if the connections at the display were soldered to a printed circuit board, so that only one set of wire junctions would be added. Of course there is the warranty issue.
Any information on this display would be appreciated.

-Denis

Pop N Wood

Just buy an extension cable, that way you keep the waterproof connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Junstar-Exten.../dp/B07LCLC5YQ

This one even mentions recumbents

https://www.amazon.com/BAFANG-Extens...PJ64YXYM1A8MW6


Luna cycles sells 8 inch versions

Moe Zhoost

OP states that it is hard-wired so there would be no connectors supporting an extension cable.

I'd guess if you figured out how to open up the display and the key pad, you would find a way to solder in a longer cable, but that's much more work than necessary (and the plastic cases may not come apart easily. Just splice in more wire. It won't look as elegant, but you will forget about it after 30 minutes of riding.

2old

The display "plugs" (green) into the "four in one" connector; I would check Luna for an extension cable.

DenisH

You read my post correctly. An alternative idea: connect a home-made two-button key-pad (don't need the power button in this case) directly to the display or the existing key-pad. Depends, as you say, on being able to open the display or the key-pad, not a sure thing. I was hoping someone here had tried that and could provide some useful information. Definitely a hacking project.

Moe Zhoost

Good luck on whatever you decide to do. I would be great if you posted your experience here so that others could take advantage of your yet-to-be-developed experience.

BTW - welcome to bikeforums.

Pop N Wood

The warranty on a $60 part doesn't seem worth the headache. With that said I would have to look at how such a display was assembled before I would try and open it up.

Two other options. Splice in a pair of raw connectors allowing an extension cable. The button assembly is probably easier to reassemble, put a connector near the head unit than run a whole cable from the inside of the button assembly to the connector.

The other option is replace the display with a mini display. I really like my 500c display. Depending on the ergonomics of your bent bars that might work

Dewey101

I agree with this suggestion, another display option might be the Egg Rider V2 that offers the added benefit of connecting via Bluetooth with a smartphone to let you change Bafang controller settings without the need to plug the controller into a laptop with a programming cable.

Doc_Wui

Working with my cheap hub kits, I often have to shorten the throttle, display, and brake cables. That's 12 splices. and if you have to do it, then you do it.

Probably four wires. That's what's inside the 3 button switch for my broken LCD3 display. One common. One for power. One for up[ and one for down.

2old

DW; Do you crimp or solder? I've always just "hidden" the extras in some form of frame bag.

DenisH

That is what I was expecting. If I decide to do the mods I will wait 'till the end of biking weather.

DenisH

My warranty concern is Bafang and will they balk on a motor issue if the display has been moded. I need to check with the installer.

The mini display is a possibility, but I have to come up with a 90 degree mount, as the grips are parallel to the direction of travel and are back from the stem some. (photo not allowed)

DenisH

I found a video of the C965 and its buttons opened. It is a bit hard to see, but it appears that indeed the button gadget has a pc board with the cable wires soldered on--nothing fancy or sophisticated like spot welding or tiny crimped connections. That is good. After the smoke clears and real winter weather sets in I will give opening the thing a try. The video is here:
Crumb! URL not allowed yet. It is from electricbikereview forums. Thread is on waterproofing components post # 217343

DenisH

I found photos by the same person who did the video. They are much clearer, but there is no text describing what was he found. I will post the links when permitted.

DenisH

I have seen photos of the C965 and its 3-button switch opened. The presence of water proofing encapsulation makes me hesitant to open either of them. Cutting and splicing into the cable seems like the reasonable approach, as a few of you have suggested.

I wonder if anybody is familiar with "Heat shrink insulated butt connectors with internal fluxed solder ring". It appears to solve a few problems all at once: solder, insulation, waterproofing. If they work well it would make the job easy. I would need to know the wire size to pick the connector. If I do this over the winter I can open the cable, measure the wire size, then get the connectors. The solder melts at 138C, so I would like the insulation on the wires to put up with that. I do not know if that is a challenge or an easy requirement.

-Denis