curbtender

Now, if I was a pro wrench, I wouldn't be recommending anything outside the stated specs. And if you try and it doesn't work, it's on you. I see where CX is coming from. If you want to do it correctly, buy the recommended parts.

70sSanO

The problem comes in when you have to follow Shimano Tech Docs, which to my knowledge don’t reference the use of a 9 speed mtb rear derailleur for 10 speed road systems. I believe the max cog for 5700 and 6700 of any cage length is 28t, per tech docs, but if wrong I gladly accept the error.

It would then seem that in this case the correct Shimano answer is the drivetrain is too old to use a 32t and the OP would need to upgrade the drivetrain and use the recommended parts; regardless of a decade of using of a 9 speed mtb RD by CX racers with a 10 speed road system.

Somehow in light of the alternative, a reversed b-screw doesn’t seem like a bad fix.

John

cxwrench

Hey look, I never said 'that won't work'. I said it wasn't the way it's supposed to work. I said it's a 'hack' (I actually hate that word and think it's massively overused), and it is. I am sure the only reason Shimano hasn't put it's blessing on using a 10 speed road shifter w/ a 9 speed mtb derailleur is the fact that they are conservative enough to not mix road and mtn parts on their compatibility docs. I've talked to plenty of Shimano employees that have said it works...everyone knows it works. It's standard, un-modified parts though. All you have to do is pay attention to the spec of the derailleur. If you start altering parts then it's a given you're not doing that. It's a liability thing for Shimano as well as a bike shop. It's easier and safer for me to just say no.

70sSanO

Okay. I have a couple of 90’s mountain bikes. One is XTR. I am 68 and have decided to install a RoadLink to give me a 24/40 which shifts great for me and is sure nice up some climbs.

Your obvious alternative is to... dump my XTR drivetrain with the M900 crank and Specialized titanium square taper BB and install ???

You really have no other response. It is a hack and a joke.

John

Speedy2009

Quick Update:
Took it for a short 20 mile spin today, All works perfect...No noise
Gear changes smoothly, even large/large.

On the stand, the reversed bolt just barely touches the hanger's "ear" and it slips if I put pressure with my hand.
I ordered a M4x20 bolt with large flat head, Hopefully that will hold better.

RockiesDad

Does anyone think he needs a longer chain also? Looks pretty stretched out in big-big crossed chained photo. I would add a couple of links and then adjust the B screw and see how it goes.

70sSanO

I have a problem derailleur with a weak b-spring. Rated at 34t max cog but now struggles even with 32t. I used a longer b screw, but like you, longer can create an issue with the hanger ear. I used and a lock nut; not a nylock but distorted. I ground the lock nut hex square to fit the ear better. It is nice and solid. If I ever need to adjust it, I just pull the derailleur back and to clear the hanger when I turn the screw.

John

trailangel

If you add more chain the DR upper wheel will go forward and hit the large cog... same problem over again.

Speedy2009

Yes, I think that chain length is pretty much on spot. (108 links)
50/34 11/32 54cm frame

Bill Kapaun

It's simple to check in situ-